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Making your own decals

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  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Stockton CA USA
Posted by roosterfish on Tuesday, March 9, 2004 12:20 PM
Jimz...lol, I'm not offended by a mispelled name...lol. :D

Ahh...the big problem with the current batch of printer is they do not print white. Printers assume you are printing on white paper and use the paper color for white. So a brighter paper will give a brighter prints and brighter colors but that doesn't help us people who make decals. Only Alps printers were able, through a white thermal wax ink cartridge, to print white. Alps aren’t sold in the US anymore. Even Alps printers were not perfect; they were known to make banding in printed areas.

There are ways around that white background problem but it does take a couple of extra steps.

One way is to get white background decal paper but after printing on the white sheet you have to carefully cut around the decal so none of the white edges bleed outside the decal. Then a black marker or pencil is run around the edge to prevent the white edge from showing up. Then apply on the model.

Another way is to print two decals, cut them both out and paint one white. Then apply the white decal on the model. When the white decal is dry follow up with the unpainted decal, registering it on top of the first one. The white will show through the clear areas.

Another way is similar to the second way. Print and cut two decals and apply the first decal. When the first decal is dry you airbrush the white areas on the applied decal. Then you register the second decal on top of the first one.

Another way would be to get someone who has an Alps printer to print your decals and let him use up his supply…but that would be cheating.

I would consider buying an Alps at Ebay but I don’t know how long the ink suppliers will keep the inks in stock and I don’t know if the inks have an “expiration date.”

I’m not an expert. Anyone else have suggestions for getting white on homemade decals?
Winners never quit; quitters never win.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 9, 2004 12:14 PM
Hi, I've been looking for information about printing decals on color laser printers and I should have come here first. I'm interested in the Minolta Magicolor 2300DL and was set to buy one until I saw an ominous message on the Papilio website that their decal papers don't work with "new, lower priced color laser printers with no fuser oil unit". Now I see that Roosterfish is using a Magicolor printer that apparently doesn't use a "fuser oil unit". Is there anyone out there who can say for certain wether the 2300DL will print decals? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Steven
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Winsted CT
Posted by jimz66 on Tuesday, March 9, 2004 11:44 AM
Roosterfish, sorry I misspelled it last time. thanks for the info. Those printers aren't too bad, not too pricey and do they print white? Thanks again.
Phantoms rule the skies!!!
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Posted by Jeeves on Tuesday, March 9, 2004 10:58 AM
thevinman....

I do that now pretty much when I need to make my own-- I use the Bare Metal Foil clear decal paper-- print out the decals once they are the right size, etc-- then brush on liquid decal film (the stuff you use to fix damaged decals)-- and wait until dry-- then I'll brush on another layer, trim, and they are good to go....and have not seen any ill effects when using Micro Set or Sol......
Mike
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Stockton CA USA
Posted by roosterfish on Monday, March 8, 2004 4:32 PM
Here is the link to HP and their color laser printers with prices (list prices). The ones I've checked out are the 1500 & the 2500 series.

http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/us/en/ho/WF02a/18972-236251-236268.html

For the Magicolor 2300 & 2350 series you could check here. I would say the Minolta printers are about $50 higher:

http://www.minolta-qms.com/products/color/index.asp
http://www.minolta-qms.com/products/color/mc2350/index.asp

A review on the Magicolor printers:

http://www.minolta-qms.com/products/color/mc2350/index.asp

Color laser printers can get confusing very easily. Everyone knows inkjet printers and printer prices. People are starting to get used to black only laser printers. But, until recently, prices of color laser printer have been so high that not a lot of people know about them, their capabilites or their advantages. Color lasers cost more initially but make up for the higher price by saving on the supply prices. I've had my Magicolor for eight months with average home use and I'm still using the starter ink cartridges with no end to the cartridges lives in sight. The savings on ink cartidges alone will have this printer even money compared to an inkjet printer and the expensive ink cartridges in about one more year. And I can make instant waterproof decals too.
Winners never quit; quitters never win.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Winsted CT
Posted by jimz66 on Monday, March 8, 2004 9:55 AM
Rooserfish, can you tell us what the model is on the HP printer and what is the price on that one and the Minolta ones. Thanks.
Phantoms rule the skies!!!
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Stockton CA USA
Posted by roosterfish on Monday, March 8, 2004 9:28 AM
HP has a color laser printer that is suppose to be almost as good as the Magicolor. I've seen the HP work and it will feed a thicker sheet of paper. The price range is the same as the Magicolor. The HP looks like a very oversized, blue, breadbox. Image-wise the HP is not quite as smooth in making photos.
Winners never quit; quitters never win.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Midwest US
Posted by balta1 on Sunday, March 7, 2004 4:21 PM
Thanks for all the info roosterfish!

Stir not the bitterness in the cup I have mixed for myself!

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Winsted CT
Posted by jimz66 on Sunday, March 7, 2004 3:44 PM
Phil you said that most ink jets wont print white. I have an Epson 800. It is now several years old, but it tells me what colors I can't print by showing a triangle if it can't print that color. NO such triangle shows up when I select white. What do you think? Is it worth the try or not? Do I need to delete the white background and put a layer underneath with nothing on it?
Phantoms rule the skies!!!
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Stockton CA USA
Posted by roosterfish on Sunday, March 7, 2004 10:06 AM
I use a Minolta Magicolor 2350 laser printer. The lower Magicolor 2300w, the "W" is the give-away will work on Windows computers only and is the cheapest of the Magicolor series. And if I remember right the processor is your computer and not a separate printer processor. It has a basic 32MB of memory that is expandable. Its printing resolution is 1200 x 1600.

The next model of printer on the Magicolor line is, I think, called the 2300DL and it has a built-in processor. It will work on Windows or Mac. 32MB memory (expandable) and 2400 x 600 printing resolution.

The one I use, the 2350, works on Windows or Macs, has a faster processor, more memory to start with, 128MB, is networkable and has a printing resolution of 9600 x 600 (but I'll be darned if I know how to access the super resolution.) I think it does it automatically.

The magicolors have got great printing engines.

Magicolors brag that not only do they print different color halftones but THEY CAN VARY THE COLORS OF EACH HALFTONE DOT. If true then they are unique. The printed Magicolor photos are superb with soft color variations in the prints and sharp contrasts. It makes very sharp decals too. I've been able to make readable 4 point type and, believe me, that is smaller than you can see.

Another nice plus to the Magicolor is the fuser is built into the colors so an extra cartridge is saved.

The printer is not large but still larger than an inkjet printer. I'd say is it the size of two bread boxes stacked.

One thing you have to watch out for is to make sure the color laser printer you consider will take thicker paper stock like decal paper. Magicolors will take thick stock up to 90 lb. index stock so decal paper is no problem.
Winners never quit; quitters never win.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, March 7, 2004 12:20 AM
I'd really like to know how Swanny was able to avoid paying for the upgrade. I bought the testors sytem for like 5 bucks and messed with it for about 5 mins before deciding it was no good.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Midwest US
Posted by balta1 on Wednesday, March 3, 2004 10:49 AM
Hey plasticmod992, I was thinking about a similar set up for myself. What printer model are you using? I was thinking about the 2300w but I really don't know laser printers.

Stir not the bitterness in the cup I have mixed for myself!

 

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: The Hoosier State
Posted by plasticmod992 on Tuesday, March 2, 2004 11:28 PM
I use a Minolta Majicolor color Laser printer and an Alps strictly for white. My editing PC program is Photoshop Elements. So far this set up has helped me produce award-winning custom models for my collection. Color laser printers are darn expensive, but man do they spit out excellent decals without the need to seal them after printing. The images are very opaque and vibrant.
Greg Williams Owner/ Manager Modern Hobbies LLC Indianapolis, IN. IPMS #44084
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: CT - USA
Posted by thevinman on Tuesday, March 2, 2004 10:07 PM
Has anyone attempted to create their own decals using a system that involves printing with an ink jet printer on decal paper and then using a “decal bonder” to help the ink stay on the decal paper when soaking…How has the “decal bonder” reacted to decal setting solutions such as micro-set/sol? Is it even possible to use setting solutions if you make your own decals using this method?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 2, 2004 6:47 AM
since i am more into 1/72 aircraft,my inkjet printer can only go as high as 300dpi! i prefer using dry transfers first, and then top it off with flat enamel!Clown [:o)]

http://www.geocities.com/whittakill/electra/electra1.jpg

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 27, 2004 8:41 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Swanny

QUOTE: Originally posted by kik36

Did you pay for the upgrade Swanny?


No, just played with defeating the programs ability to stop me from importing stuff, once that was done ....



OHHHH You gotta at least hint on how you pulled that one off!!!!
  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by Jeff Herne on Friday, February 27, 2004 11:26 AM
Hmmm...not a bad idea Jim...

Jeff
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: West Des Moines, IA USA
Posted by jridge on Friday, February 27, 2004 9:16 AM
I’ve had good luck making stencil decals. I don’t have any imaging software. So, I have to rely on the custom decal makers for that stuff.

I did not have good luck with inkjet decal paper. I tried a couple of brands and found the decal carrier film to be too thick and setting solutions melted the sealer and caused the ink to run.

I have an Epson Stylus Color 600 printer. I print the stencils using Epson’s glossy photo paper. I then go to a walk-in copy center (Kinko’s, etc.) and copy the printed stencils onto laser decal paper. The laser decal film is thinner and doesn’t require a sealer.
Jim The fate of the Chambermaid http://30thbg.1hwy.com/38thBS.html
  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by Jeff Herne on Friday, February 27, 2004 9:04 AM
Richard,

Micro-Mark sells WHITE decal paper for inkjet printers...Worst case (and this is what I do) when I need a partial white packground, I'll simply use a scrap from a previous white sheet, cut the shape I need, lay it down on the model, then lay the clear decal over the top.

Jeff
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 27, 2004 8:55 AM
Still more questionsQuestion [?]Question [?]Question [?]

1. jfrejo - can you use matte white on the decal paper prior to printing to get the white background Confused [%-)]

2. Swanny how do you import pictures I have been trying but can'tBanged Head [banghead]

Thanks to all for the inputs Bow [bow]Bow [bow]Bow [bow]Bow [bow]Bow [bow]

Richard
  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by Jeff Herne on Friday, February 27, 2004 8:52 AM
I use Future, and as long as it has time to dry completely, I've never had problems with it. I would imagine Dull-Cote would work just as well.

J
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Joisey
Posted by John P on Friday, February 27, 2004 8:41 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by ModelNerd

This is a subject that has fascinated me (almost to the point of actually trying it!). If I print my design with an inkjet printer, and seal them with a clear acrylic spray before I soak in water and apply , is the acrylic spray sufficient to protect the water-based inkjet ink? And, will they work with "decal set" the way regular decals do?


I don't know about the acrylic, but Micro-Mark sells a clear laquer spray specifically made as a sealer for their inkjet decal paper.
-------------------------------
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Joisey
Posted by John P on Friday, February 27, 2004 8:40 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by RSaddlemire

I checked out the Micro Mark web site and found the decal paper. Can the white laser paper be used effectively in an ink jet printer?

Richard


No, the ink beads up and runs off and gunks up your printer. Micro-Mark sells inkjet-specific decal paper that works fine. You need to also buy their clear laquer sealer to keep the ink from dissolving in water.
-------------------------------
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 27, 2004 8:33 AM
For you guys that have the Testors deal I have two questions. First, is it possible to get that program to print out legible text in 1/48 scale? I want to put my name on the canopy rails of my Monogram Hornet, so it needs to be small but at the same time readable. Also, is there a way to send other images (squadron emblems, markings, etc. not included in the program) to that screen? I got it for around 6 bucks at Hobby Lobby but haven't had much time to play with it.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 27, 2004 7:55 AM
Hello, I am new to this forum but have years of experience in model building as a hobby and as a professionalmodel maker. I've used the micro mart decal paper to make decals for many prototype models at work. Not being able to print white is a problem and definatly limits what you can do. I have found that by spraying the paper with krylon matte finish and sealing with krylon crystal clear I get better results. To the original question, I have never tried the testors system. To scale a decal is simple. Just measure the original and measure your copy. Now all you have to do is divide the two and this will give you a ratio to scale your decal by. This way you don't have to guess. Just print a test sheet first.
John
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Posted by Jeeves on Friday, February 27, 2004 7:28 AM
I don't think so Richard...I think they are pretty specific. Another option is Bare Metal Foil decal paper-- I have used it with much success-- and they have clear and white for ink-jet and for laser printers as well....
Mike
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 27, 2004 7:14 AM
I checked out the Micro Mark web site and found the decal paper. Can the white laser paper be used effectively in an ink jet printer?

Richard
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Friday, February 27, 2004 6:19 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by kik36

Did you pay for the upgrade Swanny?


No, just played with defeating the programs ability to stop me from importing stuff, once that was done ....
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Pominville, NY
Posted by BlackWolf3945 on Thursday, February 26, 2004 11:58 PM
Gott try me some inkjet-printed decals. All I've done to date is hand-painted stuff and it's a PITA! Tongue [:P]

Fun, tho...


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