Micro Set

Yep, it will puddle up on a gloss surface (it will spread and wet more on matt paint).  But, when you put the decal down it will still mix with the excess water that comes along with the decal, so it still works okay.

It may help to add a drop of dish detergent to Micro Set while in the bottle.  That will break the surface tension and it will not puddle up. It works with water, and I usually use water, because if you use Micro Set, you will have very little time to slide the decal around into position.

Hmm, dish detergent. Really interesting. I'll give that a try, because you're right, you get much less time with the decal once the Micro Set hits it.

I gave up and went straight to Solvaset....

I was going to start a new thread to ask a question, but this thread seems to have answered it.

In reading/viewing several tutorials on making and affixing decals to plastic model airplanes, I found that some people suggest making the surface glossy to improve adhesion, and some people suggest using a setting agent like Micro Set to improve adhesion.

It sounds like I can avoid making the surface glossy if I use a setting agent like Micro Set. Is that correct? Because the model I'm working on is a WWI fabric-covered pursuit plane, I'd like to avoid using a glossy spray altogether, if possible.

By the way, concerning the original topic of this thread, if a glossy surface causes a problem with (some?) setting agents, would it make sense to apply any gloss after the decals have been affixed and cured, not before?

Thanks,

Bill

The surface must be glossy to apply decals,otherwise silvering will occur.It is possible to to gloss the small surface where the deal will be only instead of the whole model.

Some will apply a gloss over the decal to protect.I feel it could be gloss or clear,whatever  your final finish will be,as long as you protect the decal from weathering.

Hello!

It really helps to have a glossy surface to put the decals on. Then it's also good to put gloss over the decals to protect them, and to blend the edges of the decal film a little. If you then spray the whole thing with clear flat or semi-flat, the surface looks very consistent, and the decals get that wanted "painted on" look. Good luck with your builds and have a nice day

Paweł

Thanks, both of you. That helps a lot to keep me from getting off track.

Bill

As mentioned, a gloss surface is a must to eliminate silvering. I also brush on Future then slide the decal on the wet Future. Wait a couple of minutes to let the Future grab the decal then brush on Future over to seal it.

Micro set and sol are fairly mild. Solvaset will tame the wildest decal out there. It will melt the film and make it conform on just about any complex shape.

Very helpful. I copied the following from another thread. Thanks to Phil_H. It helped me understand what silvering is: 

Gloss surface is a must. Sometimes there's silvering you can't see, but it will show up in photos.

I think setting solutions are very optional. I try not to use them unless the decal is refusing to sit flat.

And when I do, I wouldn't set the decal in a puddle of it. The idea is for the stuff to attack the decal and soften it, not stick it to the surface. I'll brush a thin coat over the top, and if I have to, just poke a little in around the edges, but I try not to.

I have not had any problems with setting solutions- every one I have tried is pretty benign.  However, solvents are something else. First problem- they vary in strength.  Second, decals vary in their susceptibility.  I generally do use setting solutions, but only use solvents when repeated application of setting solution is not adequate to get the decal to nestle down on compound curves are fine detail.

Setting solutions and solvent solutions are not the same thing.  Some people use them interchangably.  When it comes to decals, there are two types of modelers- those who have had trouble with decal solvents and those who will have problems with decal solvents.

A very useful discussion. I realize now that I need to do some more research before taking the plunge. It's interesting, looking at YouTube videos that present a variety of points of view on the topic. This discussion, and others like it on this forum, will help a lot.

I see you're a fellow Minnesotan, Don. Enjoy the nice weather; it has been a long time a comin'.

Bill

Taking this discussion one step further, in the YouTube video titled How to apply water slide decals -- Hobby Express USA, the demonstrator applies Micro Sol to the model's wing, not to the decal and then positions the decal on top of the Micro Sol. He says he does that so that the Micro Sol will soften the decal on its bottom side and help it “suck down” against the surface.

I didn't see that approach anywhere else during my research so far. I'd be interested in any comments on this approach. By the way, he's using commercially produced, not DIY, decals.

Thanks,
Bill

BSquared18

Taking this discussion one step further, in the YouTube video titled How to apply water slide decals -- Hobby Express USA, the demonstrator applies Micro Sol to the model's wing, not to the decal and then positions the decal on top of the Micro Sol.

If you read the directions on the bottle, it clearly states to brush on Set on the model and to slide the decal on the solution followed by an application of Sol on top of the decal. This has worked for most of the time for me but for stubburn decals then Solvaset is what you need.

Solvaset applies in one step by sliding the decal on then press out any air bubbles. Brush on Solvaset and watch the decal wrinkle up and look like crap. Come back the next morning and it looks like it was painted on.

After researching what's involved in making one's own decals, I realize that, for now at least, it doesn't make a lot of sense to invest in all the materials needed for DIY. I need decals for just the one model (Revell Sopwith Triplane 1/72) and won't be needing any more in the foreseeable future.

I considered buying another kit to get the decal sheet (it was missing from the one I bought). The description of the kit I found on Amazon says decals are included, but one of the buyers says the decals are missing (just as they were from my kit)! So, that doesn't look like a promising solution.

Next, I started looking for commercial decal sheets online. At eBay, mrairfix has a ton of decals that are reasonably priced. I even found one for the same Revell model I had built, but it looks yellowed. Also on eBay, I found a few decals for other 1/72 British aircraft whose roundels are the same size. But none of them quite fit the bill.

I'll keep looking. Does anyone have any suggestions for other online resources for used or new, reasonably priced decal sheets?

I don't suppose there's a way to "unyellow" an old decal. I didn't think so ...

Thanks,
Bill

You can attempt to unyellow a decal sheet by putting it by a sunny window. The sun light will eventually bleach all or most of the yellowing. It may take a few days or even a couple of weeks. It has worked for me in the past.

The sunlight trick works like a charm.Just be sure to either put it in a baggie, or keep it away from condensation. And give it a few weeks.

What a great idea! Thanks!

Bill

I've taken to using Micro Sol for bottom and top coats. After what I've read here my next trip to the shop will include SolvaSet.

I too like the "sunny window" idea. I'll try it soon.

I ordered the Revell Sopwith Triplane decal sheet from mrairfix on eBay. In response to my query, he confirmed that the decals are slightly yellowed.

I'll report back after trying the sun-bleach trick. Here in Minnesota, that's a bit of a challenge; times like this I wish I lived in the sun belt.

Bill

Old thread, I know!...butt....I used to use micro-set...even just a dab will spread out once the decal is placed on it. Nowadays though, I'll brush on some Future, just for the decal (on top of a lacquer gloss)...this has pretty much eliminated any silvering issues that I always had before. Once all the eccess is blotted away with a paper towel, I'll give the decal some micro-sol treatments.

Hi,

I received the Revell Sopwith Triplane decal sheet from mrairfix. As the vendor indicated, the white areas are slightly yellowed.

If I lived in some place like New Mexico, the sun-bleach method of whitening would be an obvious choice, but Minnesota isn't exactly know for its strong sun. I have a fluorescent plant light. Would something like that also bleach, or does it have to be the sun?

Thanks,
Bill

Most fluorescent lamps do not go far enough into the UV to bleach very well.  However, I live in Minnesota too.  You are lucky that summer is coming.  Sun angles at this time of year are reaching angle where there is a fair amount of UV.  I have succesfully bleached yellow decals in spring, summer and fall here.  Note- you must do it outdoors- window glass stops UV.  Put them out in sun and keep an eye on weather- take them in if it looks like rain, take them back out when it clears.  It may take a few days in Mn, but it does work.

Thanks for the info, Don. GMorrison says give it a few weeks. Your suggestion that it may take only a few days sounds much better.

Yes, I'll need to keep a weather eye. Clouds and rain are forecast for the next several days, so I'll wait a bit. I might try the fluorescent lights in the meantime, just for the heck of it.

Bill

Gee ;

    I just put them in a puddle and then use the Micro - Sol afterward . Been doing that for years .  T.B.

xxxx

If you have a full spectrum desk lamp you can unyellow a decal sheet year round rain or shine.

Thanks SeaStallion. I don't know a lot about full-spectrum lights. Wikipedia says, "Products marketed as 'full-spectrum' may produce light throughout the entire spectrum, but actually do not produce an even spectral distribution, and may not even differ substantially from lights not marketed as 'full-spectrum.'"

Any thoughts on that?

Bill