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Ok, thanks Paul. That's what I had assumed.
Matt,
The end is cut square to the length and then you can sharpen the edge by beveling from the inside or outside depending on the size of the rivet that you want.
Paul
Thanks for another great video, Paul!
I have a question about the syringe you used to punch the rivets. Is the tip of the syringe flattened square to it's length, or at a bevel?
matt
I think if you move through the process while the decal is stable enough not to distort when you blot it with the damp towel, you will have better success at not trapping air underneath. Getting the decal to look like part of the surface is not a passive process, they benefit from some coaxing.
I do have one question though. Aren't you suppose to let the decal dry between coats of Micro Sol, Micro Set, and Solvaset? Other than that, that is one of the best video on decal application ever. Bravo.
Excellent video Paul! Great tips on dealing with all the potential decal issues. I know of others who always trim off the excess carrier film, and I do this myself sometimes when the film is old or too thick or goes much too far beyond the decal, but is it always necessary? Even on high quality decals and small stencils? I've found just a little bit of carrier film can help the decal blend in to the clear gloss coat.
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