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Decaling over Junkers JU 52 corrugations?

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  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Decaling over Junkers JU 52 corrugations?
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Friday, May 20, 2016 1:52 PM

I'm going to be decaling over the fine Revell 1/48th Junkers which has great corrugation detail in the moulding. I have to apply 6 Iron Crosses to this aircraft which are approx 1-1/2 inches ..over the moulded corrugations mentioned.  I have a nice set of Superscale decals for this. Will Microsol work in this case?

 

Any suggestions?

 

Thanks

  • Member since
    August 2015
  • From: the redlands Fl
Posted by crown r n7 on Friday, May 20, 2016 2:08 PM

Yes may need several applications 

 

 

 Nick.

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Friday, May 20, 2016 2:19 PM

Hello!

It's always good to make a little test before doing it the big time - on the model, I mean. Tamiya paint bottle with its raised letters on the lid is a great test surface. If you can get the decals to conform over the letters on Tamiya paint bottle, then you need to fear no corrugations. When I started using decal solutions I didn't believe it can be done - but it can!

Good luck with your build and have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Friday, May 20, 2016 9:22 PM

Pawel, That's a great idea. I will try that on a Tamiya jar top.

 

And thanks for the input,  crown.

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Friday, May 20, 2016 11:18 PM

When I have tough surface details for decals to settle down good and snug, Solvaset is my "go to" decal setting solution. Works every time.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Saturday, May 21, 2016 12:03 AM

I used Solvaset on the one I am building now.Had to apply it a few times but it is effective. I will tone them down with Microflat after they cure.   

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by seastallion53 on Saturday, May 21, 2016 12:45 AM

I've done the same thing many times,good decal test bed.

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Saturday, May 21, 2016 11:20 AM

Philo

What do you use to thin the Micro Flat? I have the gloss and flat that I've had for well over 20 years and forgot about them.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Saturday, May 21, 2016 12:01 PM

Well as a rule I never found it necessary to thin it but if I did I would use distilled water.

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Saturday, May 21, 2016 12:32 PM

Thanks!

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Saturday, May 21, 2016 9:00 PM
Sure!
  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Sunday, May 22, 2016 2:32 PM

Philo

I used some water and mixed a little in a small cap and it turned into thick gunk.

It thinned fine with alcohol and used lacquer thinner is another cap and that worked great. 

My bottles are 25+ years old and may be a different formula.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Sunday, May 22, 2016 3:37 PM

Wow!i guess the age of the product may be a factor.my bottle is only 5 years old and requires no thinning.bTW here it is ..looking cool!  

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Sunday, May 22, 2016 4:15 PM

Philo,

The photos of of your model in the aircraft forum showing the bottom wing, the red cross and large WL decals look pebbly and silvered to me from that photo. This may or may not be the case. I realize that looking at photos on the internet may be different than seeing the model in person.  If this is the case for real then the Solvaset is not going to work for me on this model and I will have to stencil spray the Iron Crosses.   I will try one on the bottom first to see how it looks in person. Then make that decision.

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Sunday, May 22, 2016 5:10 PM

WW

I have been using Solvaset since the early 80s and there hasn't been one single decal it didn't work on. The product is very strong and will melt the decal film to conform over irregular shapes. Once it's on do not touch the decal or you will ruin it. 

Just make sure that you gloss up the surface to get a "painted look" from the decal.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Sunday, May 22, 2016 5:31 PM

Well that is an option.I have not yet applied the microflat so I will let you know if the Solvaset was not 100 prcent effective. 

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Monday, May 23, 2016 12:22 AM

You be the judge!   

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Monday, May 23, 2016 1:54 PM

I honestly can't tell how,  the red cross sits in the corragations, from that photo. Your photo in the aircraft forum was much closer up, blown up.  I'm guessing it looks alright close up.

Thanks for posting that in any case.

 

I will cut the letters from the decal sheet so I'm really only worried about the larger area crosses, which I will also trim close before trying to apply.

 

The corragations on the side of the fuselage are deeper than those on the end of wings as well.

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