Dry transfers

Dry transfers can be sensitive to how they are stored. Because they are kind of out of fashion, available stock can be old, in particular if they’ve been in a file at a LHS.

I wouldn’t cut up the sheet. Just be careful to only press down the part you want to use.

It doesn’t take too much pressure. A little practice and you get the feel.

I like to use a soft pencil to rub down. Great for spelling ship names as opposed to pushing around individual decals.

jeffpez

Prior to trying to use the transfer I'd used the kit supplied decal which crumbled. During that time I used some Micro Set hoping it would allow me to manipulate the decal so I could save it . I wonder if the residue from that caused some of the problem? I'm repainting the affected area and starting again.

 

jeffpez

Prior to trying to use the transfer I'd used the kit supplied decal which crumbled. During that time I used some Micro Set hoping it would allow me to manipulate the decal so I could save it . I wonder if the residue from that caused some of the problem? I'm repainting the affected area and starting again.

 

I suspect that is the problem.  The adhesive is a simple wax.  Any solvent can weaken or wash away the wax, thinning it.  When they say dry transfer they mean it.

Prior to trying to use the transfer I'd used the kit supplied decal which crumbled. During that time I used some Micro Set hoping it would allow me to manipulate the decal so I could save it . I wonder if the residue from that caused some of the problem? I'm repainting the affected area and starting again.

Hello!

Dry transfer are nice when they work - but many times they don't. They are very picky as to the conditions in which they are stored - temperature, humidity. Plus after removing the protectifve foil there's a danger of them becoming dusty - that's when they stop working. Or after they dry up.

Even some dry transfer manufacturers (Archer) suggest transfering the markings to a clear decal film and applying the markings "wet". This way you have some more control over the process. Anyhow, if the transfer doesn't start transfering after a few rubs this usually means the sheet has become defective.

Jeffpez - in your place I'd probably redraw the markings on my computer and have them custom-printed as waterslide decals.

Good luck with your ship and have a nice day

Paweł

Wow, I've never had an issue with dry transfers, becides getting them streight.

The removable backing sheet is one piece that covers the entire sheet of transfers and came off with ease. After burnishing, maybe 5% of the transfer actually stuck to the model and the rest didn't but almost a quarter of the paint came off the surface I was trying to transfer to and is now on the transfer sheet. The transfer seems ruined and the section of the model now needs to be masked and resprayed. The kit is Academy's Oliver Perry and the section in question is the helicopter landing area on the stern. The original decal utterly disintegrated so I tried the dry transfer and that's also a bust. Don't know what to do.

This may be to basic but the side of the sheet that is supposed to transfer to the substrate has a protective film sheet that needs to be peeled off first. They can be challenging to peel off sometimes.

If you are cutting out your tranfers, it maybe be darned near impossible to get the backing off. Dry transfer sheets were designed to remove the protective film, transfer (burnish) the desired graphic, put the protective sheet back on.

If this info is too basic, or I've missed the point of your question, sorry.