1/367 scale S.S. Doctor Lykes Revell H-355 decal question

So the image with the red line is the new proofs to scale and the bottom image is what i got.  I got a little upset at 1st - I though the "L" in the dark blue diamonds were light blue.  I knew i would have to overlay the diamonds on white banners - i just didnt know what to expect....  Anyhow, the L's are in fact cut out so that the white of the banners shows through.  Here is how they are looking so far....  The depth markings ive seen show the numbers following the line of the bow and ive seen others that are straight up and down.  I tried to split the difference.  Not sure of the milky look by the numbers, i think a reaction of the micro sol and PFC.  Or maybe i didnt use enogh PFC?  The curvature of the stern has caused a few ripples im working on...

GMorrison

Looks like your source can print white. That's good.

The multi layer decal is not unusual. I would guess he prints whites and colors with two different printers.

Since I can't print white myself, my own approach would be to print the blue on clear, and paint the stack band.

 

Bill

 

tks bill.

Looks like your source can print white. That's good.

The multi layer decal is not unusual. I would guess he prints whites and colors with two different printers.

Since I can't print white myself, my own approach would be to print the blue on clear, and paint the stack band.

Bill

so, aparently the proof sheet and the actual decals will be a little diferent when it comes to the blue diamond L on the white flag and banner.  I did not anticipate this but maybe thats why this fellow was less expensive than the other guy.

Is this customary to have to lay down the white background then put on the blue overlays?  Ive never done custom decals before so maybe this is "normal"?  For those who have done this before - any tips or pitfals you can share?  Tks. Wm.

so, after verifying my scan, dimmensions, etc. to the printer, i got the decals today.  The wrong scale....  :(. He was very nice, promptly sent a new proof and the new ones are supose to go out tomorrow....   There suppose to be on clear backing.   Here's what they look like - but smaller - I hope! 

dhenning

Pics please Ed!  Start a new posting for the ARL please!  I have been planning a build of ARL-41 Achilles for my wife's cousins.  Their paternal grandfather was onboard her in the Pacific during WWII.   Would love to see some details of your build.

Dave

 

I will share my plan source, The Library of Congress' Historic American Engineering Reports (HAER).

https://www.loc.gov/pictures/search/?q=Drawing:%20va2038&fi=number&op=PHRASE&va=exact&co%20=hh&st=gallery&sg%20=%20true

No pix yet.   I really haven't ventured back to a picture hosting service since Photobucket imploded.   I've tried Imgur & one other but they seemed like work.

My build is waterline.  I used the hull halves, filled and sanded off the hull ridges.   Replaced the deck with sheet styrene.   I cut off the bollards, winch, deck details fore reuse/recasting.  I used the deckhouse and extended the forward superstructure with some sheet plexiglas.   Upper deckhouse structure is also the sheet plex. Added photoetch hatches & other details

The lattice mast has been built from Evergreen, as is the A-frame.   I'm in the process of builfing & rigging the forward pole cranes.

I'm working this in tribute to a guy in my IPMS club who passed around the first of the year.   Our club was workign a group build ... Large Slow Targets.   Mike had signed up to do an ARL, but died before beginning.   I'm trying to finish it for him.

Pics please Ed!  Start a new posting for the ARL please!  I have been planning a build of ARL-41 Achilles for my wife's cousins.  Their paternal grandfather was onboard her in the Pacific during WWII.   Would love to see some details of your build.

Dave

On my current rebuild of the ARL-24 USS Sphinx from the AFV Club LST I needed a set of shaded RL24 numbers in 350 scale.   The shaded numerals were available but the letters were not.  I ordered two set of navy decals from Microscale in California, in white and black.  I applied the black then went back and overlaid the white, offsetting it a bit to the left and up. Was able to do both the larger bow number as well as the smaller stern number.   Looks good

getting close....   waiting on decals. the 1st guy wantes 80.00 for 2 sets.  the 2nd 20.  waiting for then now.

Sounds like it's way beyond anything bonder could fix.

It isn't practical to print white. The machine to do that is expensive.

One way would be to find or create the lettering in an outline font. Print the letters on white decal paper and trim within the outline. For the smaller lettering, print the copy with a black background. For either of these, you'd then go back and paint the edges black because the white decal paper will show.

Or this...

https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/item/MG733

Bill

well, i wanted to see the shape of the decals so i took 1 plimsoll decal and soaked it.  Crumbled, ink and all!  To the point that i couldnt even tell if the brown was just the backing or what.  After about 2 minutes of being wet, i just slid the brush under the decal and the 1st thing that happened was that the white from the plimsoll mark broke up in pieces and started floating around.  Downhill from there. 

Plan B - whatever that is.  I understand its not possible to print white decals anyway??  At least not on an inkjet.......

Tks bill. Going to look up woodland......

Dry transfers come on a carrier sheet, printed on the back. You tape the sheet over the model and burnish the letter on. Yes, I munched"Evelyn"s alignment a little, but I'll live with it.

Woodland scenics makes nice sets.

If you were to print these, you would print the black area around the letters which would be the white decal paper. You'd have to work at the density of the black, but sure. I did this numeral that way.

ok.  im gonna put them in the window.  i like the transfer idea but i have to think id bugger them up cutting them into tiny individual letters - thats what you do ?  Then line them up evenly on the new paper?  Maybe its time to learn decal printing - never done that

Hoo boy, old decals...

The yellowing is caused by acid in the paper and will show up in the decal as it's the film backer. Not a problem for the stack band, but definitely to be avoided on the letters.

Thye first thing to try is to tape them up in a sunny window and let them bleach for a couple of weeks. Make sure it isn't a window which collects condensation, or keep them clear of the glass itself.

Assuming that works, next test them for brittleness. Sacrifice one of the elements like the plimsole mark or something. Drop it in water and see what happens.

You can spray on a coat of Testors decal bonder before using them. There's a little trick to that; you need to cut out each decal close to the image.

Last resort; you can get dry transfer letters that you rub on. I actually like those for this particular application. The film of decals show up on matte black hulls.