Trouble with decal

Hi John,

Could you describe the problem you had with the decal? Did it break up into pieces? Wouldn't it settle and lay down correctly? Different problem, different cure.

Stay safe.

Jim 

I wet the decal in water. I put a little solves set on the tank. I lifted the decal up with my tweezers, and tried to brush it off the paper with a Q-tip. The decal didn't want to move, so I figured it was still needing more water soaking Try it again moving it with the Q-tip and it just mushed up 

John3M

I wet the decal in water...

Was the water hot? warm? cold?

How long did you let the decal soak in the water?

Tamiya decals are usually pretty simple to use; I've never had any issues with them.

I use warm to hot water.  Hot to the touch-I can put my finger in the water and not get scalded.  The water cools anyway.  I use an old Corningware glass bowl, and I will sometimes nuke it for a minute, too.

I let my decal soak till it just starts to lift off the paper backing.  Usually it's just a couple of minutes.  I use a pair of tweezers to lift the decal, still on the backing, out of the water, then slide it into place.  I don't usually lay down a softener or a setting solution first; it depends on the decals-the brand, the brand's reputation, my past experience.

I use an old paintbrush to help maneuver the decal as necessary.  I dip it in water, shake off the excess, then use it to push or more often drag then decal.  Gentle touch.

I use Q-tips to wick water away, but because they often shed fibers, I prefer the brush over cotton swabs.

I use a piece of paper towel to wick the water away, once the decal is where I want.  Then I'll use a setting solution as necessary.

I have also used Future, applied to the area with a brush, to help with adhesion if I thought that the decal might not adhere.  But that's not a hard-and-fast rule-none of this is, really, except for the water temperature and letting the decal come of the paper by itself. Those are the two constants.

The only problem I remember having with any decals was with the decals in ICM's 1/48 P-51B kit (a copy of Tamiya's, by the way).  They tended to curl as they came off the backing, especially the "Tommy's Dad" nose script.  That took some sorting out with a wet paint brush to get it oriented right-side up and to lay flat.

Not as much of a problem, but Wave's decals in their Maschinen Krieger kits were thick.  Soaking and applying them was no problem, but they did take some Solvaset to lay down over curved and compound surfaces.

I can't speak to any YouTube videos and what they say; I don't watch 'em.

John3M

I wet the decal in water. I put a little solves set on the tank. I lifted the decal up with my tweezers, and tried to brush it off the paper with a Q-tip. The decal didn't want to move, so I figured it was still needing more water soaking Try it again moving it with the Q-tip and it just mushed up 

 

Do NOT use decal SET stuff unless you really need it!  It weakens the decal and it easily warps.  Setting solution will not soften the decal- it "wets" the water to get rid of air bubbles trapped between decal and paint.

I usually cut the decals I want to place from the decal sheet and then put them all, decal side up, on top of a soaking wet sponge in a little gladware container and wait until they slide easily.  I check to see if they're sliding easily using a little tool I have that has a silicone rubber tip on one end.  Then, when you put them on the model, don't use any kind of setting solution.  Just place the decal in roughly the spot you want it, and then use a small paintbrush with plain water to add some water to the surface of the model to make the decal easier to position.  I also find that it helps if I just barely slip the wet brush under the edge of the decal to get a thin layer of water underneath it.  Get it to where you want it, and then gently push the water out from underneath it by using a rolling action with a Q-Tip.  The sponge method gives you pretty much unlimited working time with the decals you're placing, because it keeps the decal's adhesive in the same place and doesn't wash it away like dipping does.  You can even leave the decals there until the sponge dries out, and they'll be just fine when you get the sponge wet again.  AFTER you get the decal exactly where you want it is the only time you should use setting solution if you want to use it.  You don't want to be pushing a softening decal around, especially one that is a complex, delicate shape like a star.  Personally, I always use it as a finishing touch...they always look better that way for me.

thanks guys that helps me understand a lot of what is happening

John3M

I wet the decal in water. I put a little solves set on the tank. I lifted the decal up with my tweezers, and tried to brush it off the paper with a Q-tip. The decal didn't want to move, so I figured it was still needing more water soaking Try it again moving it with the Q-tip and it just mushed up 

 

If you used solvaset, the problem started there. That is a solution of last resort when a decal will not conform to a rough surface, and should only be applied after the decal is in place, not before.

Basic decal procedure, apply a gloss coat, if on a flat painted subject. Use decal set and apply decal. Blot down decal with a soft damp cloth. If decal hasnt snuggled down over a difficualt surface, apply a decal solvent.

Took everyone's advice and decals went on perfect. Problem is most of the fluids we work with the instructions are either written in a foreign languag or none at all. It would b nice if the paints included ingredients so I could work out the better thinners for that particular type and brand...trial and error sucks sometimes 

We learn just as much from our errors, as we do from our successes  Chalk it up to another modeling lesson learned the hard way.