Tips for working with dry transfers?

Obviously, proper alignment is critical, since no adjustment is possible after you apply them. In order to make sure that you have rubbed the entire transfer on properly, I use a blunt-tipped pencil to burnish them. The graphite of the pencil tip moves smoothly across the backing paper and leaves a mark where you have traced, so that any area left unburnished can be easily seen and redone before you attempt to remove the backing paper.

And if there's any weird surfaces, you're better off transfering the letters onto blank decal sheet first! A cat of Future to seal them, then you can use Microsol/set to get the decal in place.

Dry transfer will pull up with clear tape if you get them in the wrong place or miss aligned (used to do alot of letraset in school many, many, many full moons ago). Just have a few extras laying around for those "OOPsies"

If you are doing complete words, it helps to lay it out on lined paper (backing side up)
then back it with clear tape before transferring to the model. Other wise Akuma and Rjkplasticmod has a handle on it.

Dry transfers don't need a gloss surface since you are transferring inks& there are none of the issues associated with water slide decals such as silvering or bubbles from trapped air. You shouldn't have to press hard enough to release the transfer to damage the surrounding paint. Gentle rubbing with a rounded tip burnishing tool should do the trick. Main issue with dry transfers is getting it EXACTLY where you want it before transfering. No second chance with these.

Regards, Rick

Well, I think protection is more in makeing it so the paint doesn't get stuck to the dry transfer sheet (had it happen a few times... I need to use protection,ne? )

Anyway, clean the area as well before putting them down, also had problems with that...

I think that's all I can add here..... Don't have the best experience with them...