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make your own decals??

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  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: USA
make your own decals??
Posted by senojrn on Thursday, May 1, 2003 9:47 AM
I am trying to make my own decals, but need some advice. If I was to laser copy my original decal sheet onto a new aftermarket decal paper, will the original "baby/powder blue" background paper (reference old Revell and Monogram decals sheets) copy to the new?
If so, is there anyway to prevent that??? How do I get a "clear" background from a decal sheet with "baby/powder blue" or tinted yellow background?
PLEASE HELP!!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 1, 2003 6:52 PM
There are many decal sheet colours available. Clear, red, blue, white, etc.

If you want to laser copy already-tinted decal....umm....maybe you can scan it into your computer, tweak the tinted colour with photoshop, then print it :)
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 1, 2003 6:57 PM
Piece of cake!...

1. Have the original decal sheet scanned. You want to scan True Color RGB at 300 dpi.

2. Edit the resulting image using Adobe Photoshop, PaintShop Pro or similar program so as to remove the unwanted background (pretty easy a task although some experience on using Photoshop is required).

3. Make color and saturation adjustments (if needed).

4. Preview and print the processed image. (Caution! Make sure that you choose the proper printer settings based on the media (ie. decal paper) you'll be printing on. This is VERY important!!!)

Good luck. Should you need any further info on the processing details I'd be glad to provide.
  • Member since
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  • From: USA
Posted by senojrn on Thursday, May 1, 2003 9:09 PM
Just out of curiosity, what exactly do you mean by printer settings for the media?? Can't you just use the same settings as for paper? (I am somewhat computer "ignorant"--at least on the HIGHLY technical stuff...sorry.)
  • Member since
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 1, 2003 9:19 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by senojrn

Just out of curiosity, what exactly do you mean by printer settings for the media?? Can't you just use the same settings as for paper? (I am somewhat computer "ignorant"--at least on the HIGHLY technical stuff...sorry.)

Well, you could not possibly use the same settings for printing on plain paper as well as for printing on, say, transparencies, could you? For more details on this matter, you should refer to your printer's manual and/or printer driver's help file, just to be on the safe side...
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by naplak on Thursday, May 1, 2003 11:13 PM
I have found the "Coated Paper" or some call it "Photo Paper" setting works best. Also use the highest resolution your printer has... Graphics do not require the highest res, but for making a decal as opaque as possible it's good to lay down as much ink as you can.

Use MicroWeave, or High Res Half-toning too.

These settings can be found in your Printer settings.
www.naplak.com/modeling ... a free site for modelers www.scalehobby.com/forum/index.php ... a nice Modeling Forum
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by senojrn on Friday, May 2, 2003 12:51 PM
Thanks again for all the info--I'll see what I can do!
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: West Des Moines, IA USA
Posted by jridge on Monday, May 5, 2003 12:36 PM
Printing was not the issue for me. I'm tryng to make some simple stencil decals. So, MS Word worked fine to produce the text and format. I used an Epson Stylus Color printer and decal paper by Bare Metal Foil. The problems occurred when I tried to apply the decals. The decal film was unacceptably thick and turned to jelly and wrinkled using warm tap water with a couple of drops of dish soap. Setting soluiton caused the ink to run, even when a sealer was applied after printing the decals. I'm going to try some laser decal paper from www.beldecal.com. I also heard from someone that produces custom decals commercially that "Tango Papa" paper works well.
Jim The fate of the Chambermaid http://30thbg.1hwy.com/38thBS.html
  • Member since
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  • From: USA
Posted by senojrn on Tuesday, May 6, 2003 12:15 AM
jridge, let me know how your laser decal paper attempt turns out!
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: West Des Moines, IA USA
Posted by jridge on Tuesday, May 6, 2003 7:36 AM
I received the laser decal paper yesterday. MUCH BETTER! The quality of the decal carrier was much thinner, The ink was not affected by setting solution. The only weakness appeared to be the glue on the decal carrier was really thin. It took a long time for the decal to "set". The decal paper went through the laser w/o any problems. I'd think any of the walk-in printers (Kinko's, etc.) should be able to do the printing/copying for you? Note, I,m doing fairly simple black stencils. I have not tried any color stuff yet.
Jim The fate of the Chambermaid http://30thbg.1hwy.com/38thBS.html
  • Member since
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  • From: USA
Posted by senojrn on Tuesday, May 6, 2003 8:29 AM
jridge, I am planing to do some 1/48 scale CH-53 decals--the ones from Revell kit 4511 and they are all black markings, with the exception for the edge of the tail cargo ramp markings--which are yellow and black alternating stripes. I want to make two more copies of this sheet, but the background decal paper is powder blue. I want/need the background of these decals to be clear. If I purchased laser decal paper and took the decals and paper to Kinko's (or some place like it), do you think that they would be able to manipulate the "colors" so that the powder blue will not copy to the new decal paper????
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: West Des Moines, IA USA
Posted by jridge on Tuesday, May 6, 2003 9:19 AM
I don't know. I think there were discussions elsewhere in these forums regarding scanning or copying decals with blue background paper? Also, I don't know if decals are copyright protected? If yes, a commercial printer will not touch them.
Jim The fate of the Chambermaid http://30thbg.1hwy.com/38thBS.html
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Seattle, WA
Posted by RonUSMC on Tuesday, May 6, 2003 10:05 AM
Copyright should not matter. You would be protected under the laws of fair use.
http://finescalegallery.com Active Kits: 1/48 AM Avenger 1/35 Sd.Kfz 251 Ausf C
  • Member since
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  • From: Sunny Florida
Posted by renarts on Tuesday, May 6, 2003 5:04 PM
In my line of work I run into alot of copy right issues.
So long as you are not trying to copy the decal sheet and sell it, you are not violating copyrights. What can if at all be copyrighted would be the artists representation of that piece of art. i.e. if there was a piece of nose art on the decal sheet or a logo, that you copied, his or her version of that nose art would be the copyrighted piece of art. But again not a worry since you are not selling them. Typestyles or fonts are not copyrighted, (font names can be). Icon recognizable names or words can be copyrighted. i.e. the words Star Trek are not copyrighted but the words in the typestyle used by the production company are.
Lampooning something (mickey mouse flipping somebody the bird) is covered. Try and squeak that by the empire of the rat and corporate assasins will come to your house and shoot your dog. It is a matter if they feel it worthy enough to pursue. Disney thinks everything is pursuable and does so with impunity.
(BTW Mickey Mouse goes into public domain next year, unless Disney wins their suit to keep it protected)

Copying images is a different story and again is warranted only by what the pursuing company is willing to do about it. again an example would be if you are making a diorama based upon a photograph. You win an international contest with it and create a career out of modelbuilding based upon that diorama and award. THe guy that shot the photo may hit you up for a royalty check based upon your fame using his image. (Laws have changed recently for intelectual and creative properties). If he thinks he can get more out of it than the pursuit costs it could happen, but in all honesty in this case you have better luck licking a shark and walking away not tasting fish.

The other case would be recognizable icons without licensing. i.e. the comic strip characters Calvin & Hobbs (got asked to paint some nose art once with their image) The guy that created C&H does not license his stuff. So anything copied is pirated. Therefore hot. But again if you are not profiting from it and it is a one off, then no foul.

Most stuff that would show up on vehicles etc. are considered public domain and do not have issues. But there are some instances that care should be taken. It is not likely that any issues would arise unless you were copying other peoples recognizable work and trying to make a profit from it.

So now you guys probobly know more than you ever wanted to, so I'll go back to painting my models now....

Big Smile [:D] Mike
Mike "Imagination is the dye that colors our lives" Marcus Aurellius A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!"
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by senojrn on Tuesday, May 6, 2003 7:19 PM
renarts, that was really interesting...thanks for that. I never really considered copyrights before. Lots of good info there.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Planet Ten
Posted by John Howling Mouse on Friday, May 9, 2003 10:14 PM
Well, tried the ones from BEL Inc. Was able to print very crisp, virtually flawless text required on this paper. Followed all instructions including spraying with Krylon Krystal Klear fixative, blab-blab-blab. Overnight to dry. Another coat of clear. One more night to dry. Tried them out and---blammo, inkjet ink simply bleeds away as soon as the decal paper hits the water.

Tonight, tried to print the same sheet on "Experts-Choice" clear decal film (more expensive brand) and, using the same printer settings, this stuff doesn't even print 100% (some of the ink certainly did not "take" to the paper).

These firms both claim their papers are purposely formulated for inkjet printers but neither is working! Help!!!

P.S. As for reproducing decals that were on a blue paper background, some people suggest applying the decals onto white styrene sheet then scanning that. The white will be white if you use white decal paper, and clear if you use clear (depends on what your requirements are).
"No, no, no, don't tug on that-----you never know what it might be attached to."
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, May 9, 2003 10:53 PM
With all the copyright bullcrap aside.....
get your hands on some microscale Clear or White Trimfilm $2.00/sheet (also available in three packs)...it's designed for laser printers....for inkjet printers, spray the paper with Testors Dullcoat.......let dry, run through printer....let dry......coat with Microscale Decal Film....About $2.50 per bottle (it will do about three sheets when sprayed through an airbrush)....let dry....... cut decal out , soak in warm water, place on model, apply microsol if needed (it usually is)
There, you're done......it's that simple
Have fun!!!!
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Planet Ten
Posted by John Howling Mouse on Saturday, May 10, 2003 9:47 AM
Thanks for tips! Do you usually have to dilute the Microscale Decal Film to airbrush with it and, if so, what thinner does one use?
"No, no, no, don't tug on that-----you never know what it might be attached to."
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, May 10, 2003 9:50 PM
for the decal film, I shoot it through my trusty Paasche H using a #5 needle opened almost all the way....it's thick stuff, but sprays nicely and levels out very nice.....I tried to use my VL, but it clogged the tip to easily.
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