Newbie needs to apply decals

Paul - silvering is when tiny air bubbles become trapped under a decal making it appear to have silver areas to it once it dries.  The best way to deal with this is a gloss surface to place the decal on and some type of decal setting solution to soften the decal to let it settle down and conform to the surface of the model.  I use Micro-set and Micro-sol, you can get them both at your LHS usually, if not they are avaiable online from squadron.com and greatmodels.com.  I would suggest only Micro-set at first until you get used to them, the Microsol can be a bit strong and if you touched a decal after applying it, could destroy the decal totally!!!  I only use Microsol for things like Tamiya and some Hasegawa decals which can be incredibly thick on some kits...

The only thing I differ with my approach to decaling from those above is I gloss the whole model, apply the decals then follow up with an all over dull coat in the case of military models.  The reason I gloss the whole thing is that it gives a uniform surface that when dullcoated doesn't have any patches that appear less dull than others.  I'm too lazy and have too big of fingers to try to get the gloss just right where the decal lies.. I wish I could go back 15 yrs or so and start over with this with good eyesight and a steady hand! 

As far as coming off when wet, if you follow up decaling with another overcoat, dull in this case the decals will be protected.  On anything that might see a lot of use I tend to use Future floor polish and spray a coat on after decaling and before dull coating.  It just gives a little more protection to them...  If you are going to use them in an RC vehicle this might be the way to go.  I usually thin mine about 3:1 Future to Tamiya Acrylic thinner to get it to flow and dry slower, allowing it more time to settle down on the model.  Then the decals are sealed in and you can dull coat to your hearts content!!!!

Good luck!!!

Edit: if you brush paint you can brush Future on, again thin it first, then using slow strokes with a soft wide brush put it on evenly in lines.  Try to overlap one line with the other wihile the first is still wet to prevent any lines showing up.

Thanks guys.. I think I'm on the right track now.  I remember when I did the Blue Devil destroyer, I spent something like 20 hours on it.. trying to paint everything very nicely.  When I got done, I was too leary to put the decals to it.  In fact I had intended to make her R/C, but after doing the railing with thread, spending all that time, I left it at display only.  2 More questions though.. First, if I do R/C a model with decals, can the water wash them off or harm them?  Second, what is "silvering" when refering to decals?

Thanks again..

Paul

Paul5910 wrote:

Thanks for the feed back guys.. this has really cleared things up quite a bit.  I did put together a Lindburg Blue Devil a while back and was not comfortable decaling it and no longer own that vessel.  I did do the grey in what I though was the correct, or as close to correct as I could find.  From what I am reading though, I surmise that it is tough to (if not done properly) slide a decal around on a primered surface correct?  The first gentlemen to respond (T-Terrific) suggested applying a coat of gloss clear over the area to recieve the decal.  Wouldn't this glossy appearance degrade the look of the ship?  I assume maybe I would need to touch-up the area with new primer, with a brush, after doing that correct? Thanks for all the help Paul

Not if you are careful to limit it to the area or surface where the decal goes. Simply put, "clear is clear", that is, unlike dull coats, there is no powdered residue in the liquid to give the dull texture which can "soften" the color it is applied over (this can be a good thing for a slightly "weathered" look). In fact, clear can enhance the area applied, highlighting it in contrast to the rest of the surface around it.

That is why I recommended in number 11 above, if you use a clear-coat in preparation for a decal, then:

T_Terrific wrote:

I then decide which and whether I with to apply a clear-coat over the decals, if I am not otherwise doing a finishing clear-coat to the model  in either a gloss or a dullor a satin finish.

Now keep in mind that your decal is glossy, so that means you are going to have to make a decision anyway, especially if you are applying a larger decal to a surface that you want to be dull, then you would normally need to use a dull clear-coat anyway, and one benefit I find it takes the "sharpness" out of the decal, helping it blend into the general surface anyway.

OK?

Tom T

Thanks for the feed back guys.. this has really cleared things up quite a bit.  I did put together a Lindburg Blue Devil a while back and was not comfortable decaling it and no longer own that vessel.  I did do the grey in what I though was the correct, or as close to correct as I could find.  From what I am reading though, I surmise that it is tough to (if not done properly) slide a decal around on a primered surface correct?  The first gentlemen to respond (T-Terrific) suggested applying a coat of gloss clear over the area to recieve the decal.  Wouldn't this glossy appearance degrade the look of the ship?  I assume maybe I would need to touch-up the area with new primer, with a brush, after doing that correct?

Thanks for all the help

Paul

Decals can vary widely in their quality from model to model, not just brand to brand.  Here's what I do, typically:

Soak the decal in water for about 30 seconds.  This will loosen the decal from the paper backing.  You can place the whole thing onto the model at once, then slide the backing away from the decal with tweezers or a Q-tip.  You'll want to dab the excess water away with a Q-tip or maybe a corner of a paper towel.

Sometimes, you have to give the decal a little help.  If they are too thin or too thick, they don't like to move around like you want them to.  You can wet the surface of the model first to help this.  Or, use a solvent to help it move around.  The key is to keep it a little wet until you've got it right where it belongs.

The solvent will also help it settle down on uneven surfaces.  I don't know how it works, but it seems like it melts the decal a bit so it can conform around bumpy things like bolts on a tank hull.

If you trim really close to the printed part of the decal, you can reduce the amount of excess decal you need to work with.  It also helps visually.  Sometimes, after applying decals, you can see the edge of them.  If you trim close, that can go away.  Also, if the decal "silvers", it won't show up so badly.

I'm sure there is a lot I missed here.  Just remember to keep the thing wet until it is exactly where you want it.  Dry it off, and use a solvent if it's on a rought surface.

OK:

1. Using a pair of small scissors, if you have one of the larger ones with optional markings, etc, first cut the decal sheet into groups, that is the decals you want, the decals you don't want, the insignia markings vs. the cockpit detail markings, etc.
2. I always try to start with the biggest decal on the sheet, which usually is the wing marking/insignia. This way, I get the feel for the quality of the decals I am using as well as it being a safer item to "warm-up" with.
3. If the surfact is matt, due to a flat colored paint, I paint a gloss clear coat over the panel/area where the decal is to go to enable ease of positioning.
4. Having an X-Acto type knife, a small bristle brush, and some paper towels ready, I dip the subject into a soup mug with tepid tap water in it, holding it by a tab that I left on one end when trimming the decal. After about ten to fifteen seconds, I set the wet decal on a hard surface.
5. I then dip the bristle brush into the water and wet the area on the model where the decal is to go, and usually by then the decal is ready to slide.
6. Next I check to see if the decal is ready to slide, and edge the paper backing down to the model, sliding one edge of the decal off the paper onto the model's surface, holding it "on the spot" with a wet finger (the decal will tend to stick to a dry finger), carefully pulling the backing from under it, letting it "flop" onto the model's surface.
7. I then dip the small brush into the water, and stroke the bubbles and wrinkles out, gently "nudging" the decal into position if it needs further aligning, as wel as using the brush tip to help the decal go down into any grooves if needed.
8. If the decal is to form over a compound curved surface or over a bump on the model, I normally let it dry before doing anything else, letting the edges "hang out".
9. Once it is dry where it will not slide, I then take the X-Acto blade and/or the small scissors, and make cuts where necessary if needed to conform to difficult curved surfaces, and re-wet the edges with the small brush, gently stroking the loose ends down.
10. Then, if the decal seems a bit heavy, and has had trouble conforming to surface details, I apply a decal setting solution to it, again brushing the details with the wet brush, and let that dry. You have to be careful with this stuff, because if you use it on a flimsy decal, it can pucker and ruin it.
11. After it is dry, I then decide which and whether I with to apply a clear-coat over the decals, if I am not otherwise doing a finishing clear-coat to the model in either a gloss or a dullor a satin finish. Clear coat is nice when the decals want to fall off after they set a while, as well as protecting them from other damage.
12. Now as for the type of damage that can occur to decals and how to fix it, after the "disastor has abated", and you see what you got left, I usually resort to a small paint brush and find the matching color in Testors acrylics, and touch up the rough edges after any trimming I find necessary.

 

Hope this helps

  Tom T