First use of decal softner

So gtother-  what is that plane you have posted under your name? Looks neat.

OOOHHH were talking about decals...

gtother wrote:

I recently began experimenting with alcohol (70%).  Its goin well and its always around.  I could not ever find any name brand stuff like Microsol or Polyscale, so I just practiced with vinegar.  I prefer alcohol now that ive tried it.  I hate the smell of vinegar...                                            -graham

Hmmmmm......

So what do you use for your decals?

LOL

Had to say it.....

Bgrigg wrote:

You'll be looking good? I thought you were applying the decals to the aircraft!

Wait.... the guy at the LHS assured me I'd be handsomer er usin' the stuff! I won't?!?!?!

I recently began experimenting with alcohol (70%).  Its goin well and its always around.  I could not ever find any name brand stuff like Microsol or Polyscale, so I just practiced with vinegar.  I prefer alcohol now that ive tried it.  I hate the smell of vinegar...

                                           -graham

You'll be looking good? I thought you were applying the decals to the aircraft!

Bgrigg wrote:

Poor Jon, The cardinal rule of decal softener is to apply and NOT TOUCH! lone's approach is fairly sound (and most softener IS vinegar!), though I wouldn't use rubbing alcohol (otherwise known as Isopropyl), though I'm more a coward than he a fool! If thats the wing insignia and is 1 1/2"x 13/16" I have a couple I can post to you. Just PM or Email me the addy. The only thing I ask in return is that at some point in the future you do the same or similar for some person in need. The reason I have extra decals is I ended up buying a Cutting Edge decal sheet to replace some decals that I had a similar mishap with...

Thanks for the offer! I actually have one that will work just fine, but I appreciate the offer. ( i love this place.....

I've finished applying the decals, and I seem to have found a way that works for me- luckily with only the one hard-learned lesson.

The first time (when it "blew up"), I applied the solvent to the wing, then the decal, then lightly worked out the bubbles, then applied the solvent with the q-tip- and tried to work the bubbles out again. I think the combination of the solvent drench and the rough "grip" of the Q-Tip (broke that cardinal rule! ) did me in. No- check that, I don't think it did, I KNOW it did! LOL

On the next try, I applied the decal to the surface without the solvent (it was already Futured and cured), then worked out the bubbles thoroughly, and worked out most of the water. In other words- I got it set about as good as I could get it without chemical help (for the model, not me!).

After it was already pretty tight, I applied a light coat of solvent. I then let that dry for 10 minutes or so, and checked where it hadn't tightened down. I then applied a little more only in that area, and then repeated as needed.

And that seemed to be the trick- doesn't it always seem to be the case in this hobby- slow down, work carefully and apply only small amounts at a time.

The rest of the decals snugged down super tight, and except for a few minor spots, look darn near painted on.

I think a few more decal sessions and I'll be looking good!

Poor Jon,

The cardinal rule of decal softener is to apply and NOT TOUCH!

lone's approach is fairly sound (and most softener IS vinegar!), though I wouldn't use rubbing alcohol (otherwise known as Isopropyl), though I'm more a coward than he a fool!

If thats the wing insignia and is 1 1/2"x 13/16" I have a couple I can post to you. Just PM or Email me the addy. The only thing I ask in return is that at some point in the future you do the same or similar for some person in need.

The reason I have extra decals is I ended up buying a Cutting Edge decal sheet to replace some decals that I had a similar mishap with...

well,,,here goes my unconventional method,but it seems to really work for me

after the full future coat has cured,i use white vinegar brushed on where the decal will go and also a little on the decal itself while it's still on the backing......when it's loose and ready i slide it on and use a 1/4 brush (wet) to work the bubbles out ,if you find that you need to move the decal,now is the time,just wet the brush and use it to get up under it to loosen it back up ,,,,move it and brush out the bubbles,,,,,let it dry for about 15 minutes and then if it's not sinking into the detail on it's own,brush on the solvent (call me crazy,but i still use 90% rubbing alcohol),,,when the decal bubbles up DON"T TOUCH IT!!,,,,wait until the next day and shoot the last coat of Future before final weathering.

hope thishelps

lone wrote:

the decal looks as if the corner lifted and twisted a bit,other than that it would have been fine,,if it was down when you started,you know the answer,,,at least it's an easy to come by decal are you positive that corner was all the way down and adhered well?

Yeah, I'm pretty sure. I htink it may have been a two fold problem- over use of the solvent, and I used a q-tip. I think it may have "gripped" it when a dry portion came in contact with the decal. But it just sorta stretched and distended.

I think next time I'll try a brush in stead of a q-tip.... what do you think?

Also- should I let the decal dry some before applying the solution? I did it right afterward.

the decal looks as if the corner lifted and twisted a bit,other than that it would have been fine,,if it was down when you started,you know the answer,,,at least it's an easy to come by decal

are you positive that corner was all the way down and adhered well?