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Raualduke,
I like that idea. Reusing something that a lot of people already have on hand, before disposing of it.
---------------------------------Digital CowboyLive Long and ProsperOn the Bench: '64 Ford Fairlane; '09 Corvette Coupe
I've gotten into the habit of saving the wrapper that newspapers come in. Mostly for rattle can jobs. I just slip one on like a glove.no dexterity there but it works pretty well
ejhammer,
I was thinking of those as well. Like you said they're not only thinner, but they're latex free.
Thanks for the information. It'd be interesting to try it.
Use the purple or blue ones, they are nitrile, not latex, and fit better.
EJ
Completed - 1/525 Round Two Lindberg repop of T2A tanker done as USS MATTAPONI, USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa Dec 1942, USS Yorktown 1/700 Trumpeter 1943. In The Yards - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa 1945, USS ESSEX 1/700 Dragon 1944, USS ESSEX 1/700 Trumpeter 1945, USS ESSEX 1/540 Revell (vintage) 1962, USS ESSEX 1/350 Trumpeter 1942, USS ESSEX LHD-2 as commissioned, converted from USS Wasp kit Gallery Models. Plus 35 other plastic and wood ship kits.
I don't know that answer Cowboy. I just soaked all the parts in an old baking pan for a couple days. It got rid of all of the chrome with some determined scrubbing of a few stubborn pieces. Sorry.
"All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!"
Gary,
I'll have to give Simple Green a try. Fortunately "knock on wood" I usually do not have a problem with contact dermatitis. So I would think that I shouldn't have a problem with Simple Green either.
Can it be used to remove just a little bit of the chrome, i.e. from the gluing surface alone, or is it an all or nothing process?
I removed the chrome plating from a Tamiya MiG-15 kit with Simple Green, a similar product I'd guess. I used no gloves and scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. I noticed no issues with my old skin. Ymmv...
Gary
mitsdude,
I've never used Purple Power so I don't have a frame of reference for what it does or doesn't feel like on the skin. But if it's as powerful as people have reported it to be, it wouldn't surprise me if it reacts the way that you descripe.
My mom's brother was an old-time paint contractor; he taught me the trade. He started painting in 1935. To keep his hands clean, Uncle Elzy always used those cheap brown "jersey" knit gloves.
Digital_Cowboy Don, Those almost sound like the type of gloves that food prep workers wear nowadays. More than once I've had to laugh when I see someone attempting to make a sandwich while wearing a pair of "oversized" gloves.
Don,
Those almost sound like the type of gloves that food prep workers wear nowadays. More than once I've had to laugh when I see someone attempting to make a sandwich while wearing a pair of "oversized" gloves.
Yep, same thing. Hardware store sells them as painter's gloves.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
I only use surgical gloves for painting and handling a model after painting. The cost is next to nothing 7p (about 10c) a glove and I probably save that in cleaning costs for my hands.
If you search you can get latex free gloves, I have an ex with the allergy too so I automatically pick them.
Phil
"If anybody ever tells you anything about an aeroplane which is so bloody complicated you can't understand it, take it from me: it's all balls." R J Mitchell
l believe the surgical type gloves are a must when using something like Purple Power to remove old paint. From what I've read that stuff dissolves fatty tissue in your hands and fingers. Its what makes your hands feel kinda slippery/ greasy when you get the liquid on you.
MC,
Yeah, in your situation I can see there being a major problem.
jtilley,
Okay, I can see that.
As both Pilot John, and I said, I think that the surgical gloves being somewhat thinner based on the sensitivity needed by a surgen who no one can argue is less important then our buidling a model. Thus requiring them to be able to depend more on their sense of touch then we do.
Was it because of a chemical reaction between the two, or your almost gluing yourself to your work surface?
My wife is seriously allergic to latex, so I can't even have them in the house, the smell alone bothers her. I swear, she has the same level of olfactory senses as my Lab.
I use the plastic ones for painting though.
Steve
Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.
http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/
Those white cotton gloves are standard equipment for people who work in museums. A competent curator or conservator instinctively puts on a pair before touching an artifact, to avoid fingerprints.
For model work I find them more of a hindrance than a help. In addition to the aforementioned lack of "feel," the rather gauzy texture of the glove fabric snags on details. When I was working in a museum, my boss and I had a discussion about whether the curatorial assistant and I ought to wear gloves when we worked on old models. I talked him out of it. (He was, in most respects, a reasonable man.
Nowadays I keep a package of pre-moistened baby wipes on my bench to keep my hands clean. Be warned: never use a baby wipe to wipe up a CA adhesive spill! I almost sent myself to the emergency room that way once.
Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.
Painting only.
I think washing parts is an old tale that really doesn't do any good.
I just wipe with alcohol before painting.
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
Pilot John,
I'd have to agree with you that the heavier grade gloves wouldn't be too useful to us. And I also agree that the thinner surgical gloves would, because of the delicate work of doctors/surgens would be the better option. Think of the work a doctor/surgen is doing when they operate.
Although, I can tell you from experience as a Medic in The U.S. Army that neither exam or surgical gloves can be easy to put on. And that they do take a little bit of practice to do so.
Mits Dude,
Knowing from what I've read about how difficult it is to apparently lay down white paint, that makes a lot of sense.
I use the latex exam gloves that are used in doctor's offices. You can find them from several sources. The "heavier" grade cleaning type are not worth it IMO as you do lose the feel. The thinner surgical grade ones are really good. Of course if you are allergic to latex then you would not want them.
John
I have a couple pair of cotton gloves that I do on occasion use for delicate handling situations, yes.
(I also used them for handling my more cherished HO locos :) )
But for me, again, not for anything requiring any 'feel'.
I like Don's idea above re the very cheap painters gloves for spray painting. Might give that a try.
I find two types of disposable gloves in my local hardware store. First are the latex stretchy ones we have been talking about. The second are referred to as painters gloves, just two sheets of plastic film sealed around the edges. They fit much more awkwardly than the stretchy latex type, and are terrible for doing any thing but holding a model or part while you are spray painting it. But- they are cheaper than the first kind, so I occasionally buy a box of them. I keep both types on my supply shelves.
I have used them while putting the finishing touches on models painted white to keep off smudges.
Rob,
That was my first thought. Wear exam gloves of some sort while either brush painting or airbrushing to keep one's hands clean. Making personal cleanup that much easier.
Marcus,
To what end? To remove body oils?
Greg,
I'm wondering if a thin pair of cotton gloves, like what people who handle old documents wear would work for gluing or not?
Bill,
Thank you for the clairification. Right now do to cost, space, and pets (one Cockatiel and one Tarantula that would NOT react well) I do not currently own an airbrush.
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