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Someone recent posted about a test of one of those new UV hardening glues. I just completed my own test.
The turret to the right is from my current Hasagawa Nell build. It works fine gluing transparent plastics together. I was also interested if it would glue transparent material to non-transparent styrene, so I glued together the two pieces of sprue from the kit. Both pieces hardened quite well- the bond seems pretty strong.
I am excited about this, as I see it solving a big problem, gluing transparent plastic without fogging it. There is no sign of fogging on either piece, yet the bond is definitely stronger than with white glue or transparency/window glues. I urge others to try some, and share their results here.
The only drawback I can find is the expense. So far, you have to buy it in a single package, with the glue and the UV laser. I sure hope, if this stuff sells well, they will offer resupply of just the glue. The package does list the battery type in the laser piece, so it can be replaced when needed.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Yes I really like the stuff and now use it on every clear part I do. It especially works well on ill fitting canopies as it closes the gaps between the fuselage and canopy ,because of the thick viscosity of the stuff. i can simply run my finger down the glu joint to smooth it out before I zap it with the light.
It also works well on tiny, fiddly opaque and clear parts that are impossible to clamp like PE handles and such on the inside of the canopy etc. Because of the instant setting capability it's very handy. Any mistakes made can be easily picked off with a sharp tool after this glue has set as well.
Good point about the $ Don. I have already gone through 1 tube of the 2 tube TV offer and wish I could buy just the glue in a larger quantity.
I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.
Completed - 1/525 Round Two Lindberg repop of T2A tanker done as USS MATTAPONI, USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa Dec 1942, USS Yorktown 1/700 Trumpeter 1943. In The Yards - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa 1945, USS ESSEX 1/700 Dragon 1944, USS ESSEX 1/700 Trumpeter 1945, USS ESSEX 1/540 Revell (vintage) 1962, USS ESSEX 1/350 Trumpeter 1942, USS ESSEX LHD-2 as commissioned, converted from USS Wasp kit Gallery Models. Plus 35 other plastic and wood ship kits.
Glued on (almost) all of the greenhouses, blisters and turrets yesterday, to close up the fuselage on my Nell in prep for painting. I did not add the forward dorsel turret yet (stuffed the hole with tissue) since I am not sure whether I want the turret up or down.
The bond seems quite strong, and there was enough glue in the kit to do all these pieces, and there is still some left. I will not know if there is any fogging until after painting, when I remove the masking, but since there was no fogging when I built the one turret, I am hoping there will be no fogging.
I wonder about long term since the glue is'nt welding the plastic together,yeah i know ca does'nt either.
I am now starting my third model with my first package of the UV hardening glue. I have finished all the windows. This has eliminated my worries about the high cost of the package- ten bucks. It may run out the next time I try it, but the work I have done with it is worth ten bucks. I only use it on the transparencies, but it is really nice for that task!
Is this the glue you're talking about . . . if not in name, then in functionality?
https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Anything-Waterproof-Resistant-Plastic/dp/B00QU5M4MG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1471316704&sr=8-4&keywords=lazer+bond
cvsusn Is this the glue you're talking about . . . if not in name, then in functionality? https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Anything-Waterproof-Resistant-Plastic/dp/B00QU5M4MG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1471316704&sr=8-4&keywords=lazer+bond
Looks very similar. Not the same brand but looks like the same stuff generically. Dispensor and laser are very similar shape. I got mine at Menards for ten bucks.
How is the glue applied? Brush? Glue looper? Toothpick?
What is the viscosity? What is the risk of damage to finished areas where it may spread? What solvent?
Lots of questions, but about to pull the trigger on this.
Posted by ejhammer on Saturday, February 13, 2016 10:27 AM
Ran my tests.
The kit looks like this and has a metal dispensing tip somewhat larger than the tip on Model Master liquid cement bottle.
I snipped off two pieces of grey spru. Did not sand or dress the ends.
Applied a bit of the glue. It is about like thick CA in consistancy. Used the UV light for a few seconds.
Added some weight for a durability test. For a butt joint, it seems pretty strong.
Next some clear spru. The glue is clear as well. The glue solidifies to a kinda tough plastic. Seems to be slightly flexible. As in a previous post, it did not craze the plastic.
Next, two pieces of strip styrene. I found I needed to sand the surface slightly on this to get it to stick. Not sure if this is because of some surface contamination or if regular moulded styrene from a kit would be the same.
Deliberatly left a gap to test filling properties.
The gap filled and sanded. Came out very smooth, although the glue sands a bit tougher than the styrene strip.
Next - wood. Basswood strips.
Glued the joint. It is a small joint and in shear. The weight bent the wood but the joint held well.
Last, some PE. My Achilles heel is PE railing. I put an elongated puddle of glue on my glass work surface. Then with tweezers, dipped the edge of the pe railing (1/700) in the glue, held it on the previously tested styrene strips and used the light. In just a few seconds it was stuck. I ticked it with my finger tip to see how well it held. The rail bent, but did not come loose from the styrene.
I can see that adding this stuff to my arsenal of adhesives might prove an advantage. I don't know how much glue is in the dispenser and it doesn't say on the package. At $9.99 it seems a bit pricy, but then, CA isn't really cheap either, especially since it seems my CA seems to go bad before it's all used anyway.
Was an interesting experiment.
EJ
Thanks!
I pulled the trigger on the Bondic for two reasons. There are refills readily available. Also to provide another product to review.
A couple of items to note while waiting for the product. It is about double the price. The glue amount is listed as four grams or .14 ounces. Seriously expensive glue!
EJ's description of using the glue on PE railings brings to mind using it to join corners of PE bent to create edges such as box shapes instead of cyano which can turn into a mess.
I have an experiment to try when it comes to see if a thin layer around PE direct onto plastic provides a suitable bond.
Looking forward to trying the Bondic out!
Carl
Tri500;
I learned something by just experimenting with this stuff . If you have a thick area of this U.V. glue and you are not sure it is going to cure all the way through . In the fine print - " When applying this product , be aware that thicker applications will require longer applications of the U.V.Light . "
They did not tell a lie . I have used it as a filler in an old Lionel , Train station building . It worked perfect following these instructions . My experimenting also proved it ! T.B.
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