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Thinning clear parts?

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  • Member since
    August, 2016
Thinning clear parts?
Posted by scaler on Friday, September 30, 2016 12:50 PM

Can anybody suggest a technique for thinning clear kit parts in order to make them more realistric in terms of scale?

I know that one approach is to simply dip such parts in Future (Pledge FloorCare Finish), which would make them appear thinner. Another one would be to carefully sand and polish them until the desired result is achieved, either by hand or using a rotary tool.

Any other suggestions? Thanks!

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  • Member since
    August, 2013
Posted by Jay Jay on Saturday, October 01, 2016 7:26 AM

On the models i deem "special"  i usually just buy after market Vacuuformed canopies. For the flat windows and such , I cut up blister packaging or use clear window cement or laser type glue carefully squeezed into the window openings. I always thought it would take way too much work to thin down the kit canopies and the vacuuformed ones aren't very expensive.

 

 

 

 

 

 I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.

  • Member since
    January, 2014
Posted by Silver on Thursday, October 27, 2016 9:53 AM

Having it to actual scale won't happen.Plastic models of any scale is only  calculated assumption of  models actual size.Polishing with car polishing compound will work great."Future " Gives it a semi gloss look.i flew many types of aircraft And I can tell you that looking through the canopy or " windscreen" which it's actually called , looks like looking through a regular window.Nothing special.(excuse my spelling)If so.

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, October 28, 2016 8:20 AM

Silver

... And I can tell you that looking through the canopy or " windscreen" which it's actually called , looks like looking through a regular window.Nothing special.(excuse my spelling)If so.

 

Depends on the age of the aircraft. Before the jet era, plexiglas was very susceptible to UV damage, and many of the older aircraft I flew in had pretty hazy appearance. If the plexiglas was not covered on tie-down aircraft, it was hard to keep them polished enough not to be hazy.  I replaced the windshield on my Ercoupe to get rid of the hazy original, but many old civil aircraft spent many years with cloudy ones. 

Newer jet era planes have much nicer canopies, but for a model of an older one, a pretty cruddy one is not unrealistic.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    January, 2014
Posted by Silver on Friday, October 28, 2016 10:19 AM

the  F-100, F-105, and the F-4 is what I flew .Also in the F-15 strike eagle in which my son took me on.Cant help it ;Its an airforce academy family.

  • Member since
    August, 2016
Posted by scaler on Friday, October 28, 2016 12:06 PM

Silver and Don,

These are very interestring observations, thank you!

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  • Member since
    June, 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Monday, December 05, 2016 1:59 PM

Don :

You Hit the Nail Squarely !

 When I was restoring Both , the big plane ( B-25 ) and the PiperJ-3 , I had to replace the whole Windshield on the J-3 , and the B-25 required almost all the Nose and Cockpit units replacement . Thank Goodness for " Tap " Plastics .

    The  Cessna180 needed two windows replaced on the starboard side . That was my follow up plane to the J-3 . Most of my friend 's planes have required replacements . In miniature use Vac-Formed canopies or sheet from packaging that will work . 

  • Member since
    February, 2003
  • From: Rothesay, NB Canada
Posted by VanceCrozier on Monday, December 05, 2016 2:06 PM
Yep, oddly enough, "a perfectly clear windscreen" in the model of an aircraft isn't all that realistic (depending on the age of the original, etc), it just makes it easier to see the work you did in the cockpit. ;)

On the bench: Airfix 1/72 Wildcat; Airfix 1/72 Vampire T11; Airfix 1/72 Fouga Magister

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