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On the bench: Airfix 1/72 Wildcat; Airfix 1/72 Vampire T11; Airfix 1/72 Fouga Magister
Don :
You Hit the Nail Squarely !
When I was restoring Both , the big plane ( B-25 ) and the PiperJ-3 , I had to replace the whole Windshield on the J-3 , and the B-25 required almost all the Nose and Cockpit units replacement . Thank Goodness for " Tap " Plastics .
The Cessna180 needed two windows replaced on the starboard side . That was my follow up plane to the J-3 . Most of my friend 's planes have required replacements . In miniature use Vac-Formed canopies or sheet from packaging that will work .
Silver and Don,
These are very interestring observations, thank you!
the F-100, F-105, and the F-4 is what I flew .Also in the F-15 strike eagle in which my son took me on.Cant help it ;Its an airforce academy family.
Silver ... And I can tell you that looking through the canopy or " windscreen" which it's actually called , looks like looking through a regular window.Nothing special.(excuse my spelling)If so.
... And I can tell you that looking through the canopy or " windscreen" which it's actually called , looks like looking through a regular window.Nothing special.(excuse my spelling)If so.
Depends on the age of the aircraft. Before the jet era, plexiglas was very susceptible to UV damage, and many of the older aircraft I flew in had pretty hazy appearance. If the plexiglas was not covered on tie-down aircraft, it was hard to keep them polished enough not to be hazy. I replaced the windshield on my Ercoupe to get rid of the hazy original, but many old civil aircraft spent many years with cloudy ones.
Newer jet era planes have much nicer canopies, but for a model of an older one, a pretty cruddy one is not unrealistic.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Having it to actual scale won't happen.Plastic models of any scale is only calculated assumption of models actual size.Polishing with car polishing compound will work great."Future " Gives it a semi gloss look.i flew many types of aircraft And I can tell you that looking through the canopy or " windscreen" which it's actually called , looks like looking through a regular window.Nothing special.(excuse my spelling)If so.
On the models i deem "special" i usually just buy after market Vacuuformed canopies. For the flat windows and such , I cut up blister packaging or use clear window cement or laser type glue carefully squeezed into the window openings. I always thought it would take way too much work to thin down the kit canopies and the vacuuformed ones aren't very expensive.
I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.
Can anybody suggest a technique for thinning clear kit parts in order to make them more realistric in terms of scale?
I know that one approach is to simply dip such parts in Future (Pledge FloorCare Finish), which would make them appear thinner. Another one would be to carefully sand and polish them until the desired result is achieved, either by hand or using a rotary tool.
Any other suggestions? Thanks!
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