laskdjn

Why do you always stick instantly when I don't want you to, but then not stick instantly when I do want you to?

 

Please elaborate on using this "spru-goo" on photo etch.

Sprue-goo is a homemade concoction using liquid cement to melt sprue. If you Google it you will find several references to it. I posted below just one of the links available. You can use it as a filler, and now I am using it to attach PE. It's use for PE will be dependent on the pieces you are gluing. Mostly--based on where it needs to be applied and if it's a visible area. CA glue is less visible. A glop of sprue-goo may not always be the thing to reach for.

In times past, I had mixed results with sprue-goo. It was not until I tried making a batch using Tamiya Liquid Cement that it really came to life for me. It seems to cut the plastic beautifully. Also--with the previous cement that I used--it for some reason caused air bubbles in the mixture. With Tamiya--I see very little of that. And--if you use the Tamiya jar--it comes with that handy applicator. That works really well for applying this stuff to tiny areas.

Updated: You don't have to put a ton of it on. I wipe the excess from the applicator and apply a thin coat to the backside of the PE. Apply as much as you can without it oozing out when you press the piece down. Then you can position the piece exactly how you want it and let it cure. It works great as a filler too. And it sands nicely. This is quickly becoming my go-to product. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdVBcMOn9R8

thanks for that steve , I've heard of it , but never seen it used . Going to make some now .

Share the frustration. Currently I'm using Microscale Krystal Klear to tack the rail, then come back with runny superglue when its positioned.

Ha-ha, I know that scenario all too well!  (I think we all do.). But yeah, why does superglue do that?  When the part is mispositioned, the glue sets up immediately and takes on the grip of epoxy or urethane adhesive.  When you try to attach that super delicate fiddly part, it turns to snot.  Then sets up all over the place as you try to wipe up the gooey mess.  That’s why I only use CA when absolutely necessary.

I notice that CA glue sticks to my fingers much better than model stuff.

And why do I keep putting my hobby knives down on the bench exactly where the pallet for CA glue is?

Hello!

Once I've read that CA glue was originally developed for medicine, to glue wound edges and stop bleeding - wouldn't this explain why it glues fingers a lot better than plastic?

I have one tip for all of you that use CA - give the surfaces to be glued a quick wipe with lacquer thinner. After that CA bonds much faster and stronger, too!

Good luck with your modelling projects and have a nice day

Paweł

Don Stauffer

And why do I keep putting my hobby knives down on the bench exactly where the pallet for CA glue is?

Laughing. That happened to me once or twice too. Then another time a piece of PE jumped out of my fingers right into .. you guessed it. It went into the CA on my pallet. No matter that I keep the pallet well away from where I am working. It magically found its way there, like a fly to rotting meat. What are the odds?

ARDVARK003

Laskdji, I've stuck lots of parts and misc things to my fingers and post-note glue pallets to my fore arms. I use slow ca and accelerator alot, more forgiving. AARDVARK

 

ARDVARK003

Laskdji, I've stuck lots of parts and misc things to my fingers and post-note glue pallets to my fore arms. I use slow ca and accelerator alot, more forgiving. AARDVARK

 

Or when glue seepage dries instantly to my tweezers, but not my intended location...

Don Stauffer

I notice that CA glue sticks to my fingers much better than model stuff.

And why do I keep putting my hobby knives down on the bench exactly where the pallet for CA glue is?

 

CA was originally formulated for IS used for surgery. The moisture is what accelerates the drying time, but not too much moisture. That's why it sticks to your skin so fast and not so fast to plastics and metal. It uses the moisture in the air to harden so a day with higher humidity will make it dry faster than a dry day. I have used water (usually successfully) as an accelerator. The manufacturers accelerator works much better but once its on the plastic, that area will be almost impossible to CA again should the part break off. That's why use accelerator as a nuclear option, if all else fails.

FROM THE DESK OF  SUPER GLUE

  Dear Laskdjn,

I'm sorry I stuck your finger's together, and not your part's.

I can be a "Fickle Misstres" sometime's, but I can be Helpful as well.

I hope I can make up for this by giving you the neccessary "Stick-to-it-ivness" that you require to complete your model.

As other's on this Forun have mentioned, you are not the only one to "Feel My Rath" ( just ask Little Timmy about the time I stuck an exaust pipe to his eyebrow)

Hope we can still be friend's ,

                                                         Your's Truely,

                                                                            SUPER GlUE

modelcrazy

The moisture is what accelerates the drying time, but not too much moisture. That's why it sticks to your skin so fast and not so fast to plastics and metal.

I once squeezed a tube (with a blocked tip) too hard and it burst all over my hand. Not knowing any better at the time, I stuck my hand under a tap to wash it off and was rewarded with an instant rock-hard second skin. That's one mistake I'll never repeat.

Yes, moisture is one key factor. The other is contact area between the two pieces being joined.The bigger the contact area and the closer the contact, the better the join. 

littletimmy

FROM THE DESK OF  SUPER GLUE

 

  Dear Laskdjn,

I'm sorry I stuck your finger's together, and not your part's.

I can be a "Fickle Misstres" sometime's, but I can be Helpful as well.

I hope I can make up for this by giving you the neccessary "Stick-to-it-ivness" that you require to complete your model.

As other's on this Forun have mentioned, you are not the only one to "Feel My Rath" ( just ask Little Timmy about the time I stuck an exaust pipe to his eyebrow)

Hope we can still be friend's ,

                                                         Your's Truely,

                                                                            SUPER GlUE

 

That's hilarious.

As an aside, I didn't know water could accelerate CA glue.

That's Right !

 The idea was  low scarring by using this product .The moisture in the skin is what makes it so super sticky . Now for P.E. I use either slow set C.A. or Aleens " sticky " White craft Glue ! 

 i have used sprue glue , But , This version is like honey and works great . What I like about Slow Set C.A. Is I take it , Line my part up and using a toothpick , Put dots where I need them .Then I hit them with a skewer point full of accelerator ! 

 Done !  And the accelerator causes the C.A.To " wick " and spread the glue without a mess .

I got a huge scare once using SG. I was squeezing a tube that was clogged and like a big dummy I was watching to see if anything was comming out. The clog broke loose and several blobs of glue splattered all over my glasses lens, eyebrow, and cheek. Small price to pay for a new pair of glasses.

Well, this stuff CAN be scary. Do you know that funny feeling when you ar looking at some CA glue setting from above? That's CA fog setting on your eyes...

Then again, some day i pushed a bottle of CA over the edge of my bench. I watched it fall, trying to catch it or something, and then it hit the ground squarely with the bottom of the bottle and that impact sent a few droplets of CA high speed straight into my eye. Oh yeah, that was scary. Luckily I was able to wash it all out, but the heart sure started to beat faster for a moment...

So please stay safe and watch out... Still you'll need some luck! Have a nice day

Paweł

It seems like the older you get, the more the brain unlocks. I have started wearing safety glasses at the bench whenever the solvents, glue or other nasties are out. 

This stuff can be scary for sure.

I dropped an open bottle of extra thin on the floor which made a large puddle. When attempting to blot it up with paper towels the paper towels started smoking and caught fire. Of course the towels where glued to my fingers by then and they where burned before I could extricate myself from them. I since put a band of modeling clay around the bottom of every bottle of CA I use to prevent spillage like this...works great.

gobobbie - those safety glasses sure sound like a good idea... Too bad I usually only remember it AFTER something happens...

jay jay - I have read about it before. It said CA has a nasty tendency to give off heat in connection with cotton. And I suppose they add something similar to cotton to paper towels to prevent them from ripping when wet. I've already experienced CA getting hot when curing, but luckily I've never got it as far that it would catch fire. That would be really bad in a place where all the solvents stand :-((

Have a nice, safe day

Paweł

CA is not the only thing that gets hot when it cures.  I mixed up a paper cup full of expoxy one day to fiberglas something I was building. I was slow in working it, so it fully activated in the cup.  The cup started smoking, then charing!  I ran outside with it because I expected it to burst into flames in the shop. It didn't flame, but that paper cup ended up black and brown!

Rambo

For PE that is going to take a minute to get in the right position like rails I will use gator grip glue. It has a work time of a few minutes and holds just as well as super glue.

 

Hey Clint, if you see this, what specific Gator Grip glue are you using? It seems like there are multiple options out there and I would like to try the one you are using. I like the idea of working time to position the part, but that in the end has a good bond.

Thanks..

Update: Thin blend? Not thin blend? 

Pawel

Hello!

Once I've read that CA glue was originally developed for medicine, to glue wound edges and stop bleeding - wouldn't this explain why it glues fingers a lot better than plastic?

I have one tip for all of you that use CA - give the surfaces to be glued a quick wipe with lacquer thinner. After that CA bonds much faster and stronger, too!

Good luck with your modelling projects and have a nice day

Paweł

 

I had carpel tunnel surgery two years ago and the surgeon used glue instead of stitches. 

Bakster

 

 

Rambo

For PE that is going to take a minute to get in the right position like rails I will use gator grip glue. It has a work time of a few minutes and holds just as well as super glue.

 

 

 

 

Hey Clint, if you see this, what specific Gator Grip glue are you using? It seems like there are multiple options out there and I would like to try the one you are using. I like the idea of working time to position the part, but that in the end has a good bond.

Thanks..

Update: Thin blend? Not thin blend? 

 

If I may jump in here please, I use the regular Gator Grip for my PE parts. And you can add a little water to the regular Gator Grip and get the equal of the thin blend. 

I don't use super glue anymore, I hate the stuff and there's nothing it can do that Gator Grip and epoxy can't do... 

Gamera

If I may jump in here please, I use the regular Gator Grip for my PE parts.

Gamera

And you can add a little water to the regular Gator Grip and get the equal of the thin blend. 

Gamera

I don't use super glue anymore, I hate the stuff and there's nothing it can do that Gator Grip and epoxy can't do... 

Followed with a good testimonial. 

Thanks Cliff!