Tenax evaporating

I've been using the same bottle of Tenax for 14 years. My secret? Keep it refilled as needed with MEK. Sure this stuff is carcinogenic as hell, but so is Tenax. MEK works just as well, and as Woody said, alot cheaper!

Glad to hear that! Good information.

any clogging that occurs will be because it scooped up a little plastic during application and dried in the needle. Just soak it in the solvent and it will melt away.

Tenax is a solvent and will evaporate completely so clogging shouldn't be an issue.

After I read this thread, I took a look at my tenax (which I have yet to use) and noticed that it was down to the top of the label. I then turned it upside down and plan on building something that will use this glue.

One reason why I have yet to use it is because of the applicator. I did buy one but not sure of how it works... meaning I understand the capilary action thing, but how do you keep it from clogging the applicator once you are done gluing?

Application: The only thing I use is an old number 1 brush for enamals for applying the glue. Been using it for more years than I can count. Holds a fair amount and wicks great into a seam, even if the seam is closed. Did not have much luck with or other instruments, the brush works best for me.

Gluing painted parts. There are times when I have to glue painted parts together, but I try to keep this practice to joining of small details and non stresses parts. I just glue as normal, put the parts together, load the brush with a minimal amount of glue, then gently touch the joint so a small amount of glue flows into the joint. The paint (I use enamals only) may craze a little, just leave it alone. It will smooth out like a decal in setting solution. If it still has some crazing, a quick pass with 320 or 400 paper fixes it up. This takes a little finess to master, but can be done. Yes, joints seem to be good, even with the paint in them.

MEK will but I haven't tried Weld On. Most of the time I use a drafting pen to apply liquid cement.

Will these other products, Weld On, MEK, etc work with the touch n flow like the tenax does?

Dave

Good thread. I have been using Weld On #4 for years. Many years. Great stuff. I have used Tenex, Weld On #3, and a few others not worth mentioning. I have settled on Weld On #4 because 1) Weld On #3 not that easy to find 2) works with styrene, acrylics, and other plastics 3) cheaper than anything else, especially in bulk. I currently buy it by the pint from a plastic company in Missouri. This quantity last a long time, and I do a fair amount of modeling.

I agree, any of this stuff evaporates at an alarming rate. However, I have discovered two things that seem to effect the evaporation rate: location and quantity.
Location: Weld On evaporated less when I lived in Iowa and Arkansas- possibly colder and less humidity. Lived in Florida for 11 years, seemed to evaporate quicker there- yes, you would go the the local hobby shop and their stock would have half filled jars. One store finally stopped carrying the stuff due to the evaporation. Others only ordered on demand. And what they got from their vendors was missing quantity.
Quantity: As I mentioned, I buy it by the pint. A full can seems to evaporate at a much slower rate, even though I leave it open for several hours at a time, than when the can gets down to 1\8 full. When it reaches 1\8 or lower, you can almost watch it disappear.

So, that's my experience- hope this helps.

Thank you Woody, you have just taken my words. I live in Argentina now, and can get Tennax only when I travel to the US or Canada, also use Ambroid, but went to a local drugstore and bougth a litre of MEK for 3 U$S. I also use Toluene. Any chemical my produce consequences to your health so using them correctly will prevent direct or side effects, remember safety is paramount if you want to enjoy the hobby and not die along the way. To prevent evaporation of Tennax or any other stuff, I just turn up side down the bottle, it has worked fine for me. Also I use an empty ice cream jar to put all the glues. Before I used a wide brown color glass jar, until the cat push it over the desk (so far no carcinogenic side effects have been appreciated in the cat’s behavior), and broke it. When I glue or even paint with this stuff (toluene is an excellent thinner), I wear gloves and a gas mask. JGM.

if you have been getting good results with acetone, you will think you died and went heaven with weld-on

I've been using straight acetone as a cement for plexi but I'll give Weld-On a try. I can get all the plexi I could want from work for free so I like to glue blocks of it to turn on my metal lathe.

I use weld-on 3 for both plex and styrene. It is ideal for all acrylic sheet.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Hatewall sure Woody, I'll scan some. I have a 17' Enterprise that may interest you judging from your sig. Lots of S. Trek weapons also. I have some photos of the Titanic movie model as well. I'll dig them out.

That would be great. I'm on a Trek kick at the moment but I've built A/C for about 30 years. Really I love to look at any models. Say do you ever use plexiglass? If so what do you like to use as a cement for it?

sure Woody,

I'll scan some. I have a 17' Enterprise that may interest you judging from your sig. Lots of S. Trek weapons also.

I have some photos of the Titanic movie model as well. I'll dig them out.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Hatewall . . . MEK will evaporate at a much slower rate. . .

Bingo, one of the reasons I've added MEK to my list of cements. That also cuts back to the beginning of this thread and the problem of Tenax-7 evaporation. I use Ambroid most often but I also like Tenax and MEK. In addition to a cement I use MEK for the solvent in my home brew putty.

If anyone is interested here is a link to my use of this putty. http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/search.asp?mode=DoIt

This is a link to a thread about homemade putty. http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?page=-1&TOPIC_ID=21787&REPLY_ID=210961#210961

Hatewall are you going to post some pics of your Paramount/Viacom work? I would love to see some pro built studio models.

Straight MEK doesnt have some of the properties of a good plastic solvent. MEK will evaporate at a much slower rate. I have used MEK extensively and I don't recommend it for casual builders.

I used to run the model shop for Paramount/Viacom in the southeast and we used gallons of the stuff. Take the time to find a good plastic solvent and you won't regret it. If you want to kick off poly resin or bondo, then go MEK. For joining plastic, you want methylene chloride.

Weld-On 3 is made by:
IPS Corporation
PO Box 379 17109 Main St
Gardena, Ca 90248

As far as chemicals go M.E.K. isn't too bad. It is listed as a respiratory, eye, and skin irritant by OSHA. I'm the Safety Officer in charge of the MSDS(Material Safety Data Sheets) and OSHA chemical compliance where I work so I did a little checking into M.E.K. . It seems it is a very safe chemical when used as directed. OSHA calls for safety glasses and adequate ventilation. It is also not a carcinogen. Here is a link to a copy of the MSDS. http://ptcl.chem.ox.ac.uk/MSDS/BU/2-butanone.html

you are correct Mike. It can cause chemical burns on the skin.

If you get it under your fingernails, you will wish the Lord would come and take you.

MEK is also the active ingredient that cures polyester resin in fiberglassing. It will work as stated in the post but it is nasty stuff.

Find a plastic distributor, and get a pint of weld-on #3. Thats all you need. I have been using the same can of weld-on for a year.

Woody,

I meant that I think it is even more dangerous than Tenax isn't it?
Tenax has only part of it's ingredients as MEK.
I am no expert so I will wait for Gip to inform us.

Mike

QUOTE: Originally posted by MikeV That stuff is dangerous also and stinks. Mike

That is true it is as dangerous at Tenax-7 so take care and read the cautions on the can.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Woody QUOTE: Originally posted by paz8473 Does it work the same as Tenax? What department at Home Depot is it located? It's not diluted so it's a little "hotter" and it's in the paint dept.

That stuff is dangerous also and stinks.

Mike

I just thought of an old trick. Some people store certain items flipped upside-down to keep them from evaporating. Anyone care to try this with their Tenax?

QUOTE: Originally posted by paz8473 Does it work the same as Tenax? What department at Home Depot is it located?

It's not diluted so it's a little "hotter" and it's in the paint dept.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Woody QUOTE: Originally posted by paulnchamp It's great stuff but I had to stop using it - seemed like it evaporated almost before my eyes. Couldn't afford to keep up with it! You might consider getting a quart of MEK from Home Depot. It's the active ingredient in Tenax-7 and cost less than $4!

Does it work the same as Tenax? What department at Home Depot is it located?

QUOTE: Originally posted by paulnchamp It's great stuff but I had to stop using it - seemed like it evaporated almost before my eyes. Couldn't afford to keep up with it!

You might consider getting a quart of MEK from Home Depot. It's the active ingredient in Tenax-7 and cost less than $4!

Lol, I have been a professional model builder and sculptor for 12 years. I'm sure there are a lot of other chemicals that have dibs on my demise.

Mike is right though, that wasn't a good tip for an all ages board.

About 6 years ago I was filling a syringe from a gallon can of weld-on. When I went to squeeze the air out of it, there was a bit of styrene clogged in the needle and instead of shooting up, it took a 90 right into my eye. It felt incredible.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Hatewall or you can suck on the other end to speed it up.

Do NOT do that! It is a carcinogen.

Mike

I use Touch-N-Flow applicators from flexi-file. Capillary action pulls the solvent into the glass tube when you dip it in the bottle or you can suck on the other end to speed it up.

A bottle will last a very long time because it is only open to load the tube and you also don't have it evaporating off a brush.

It works great for Zip-Kicker also

try storing the bottle in a ziplock bag when not in use.