Attach PE Sets

I use Gator's Grip acrylic glue (it's more or less white glue on steroids) for 99% of my PE work. Holds small parts very well, doesn't got brittle like CA (meaning glued parts will bend if you put pressure on them, rather than break), and has a slightly longer working time.

Chromdome35

To keep CA from building up on your applicator, put it in acetone.  A small cup works great.  I made several just as described.  I keep a small cup of acetone on the workbench while i'm building.  When I'm ready to glue something, I pull the applicator, wipe the acetone off, and then dip it into the CA.  After I'm done, back into the acetone it goes.

There is a thread on here somewhere about this very thing

That thread is HERE

To keep CA from building up on your applicator, put it in acetone.  A small cup works great.  I made several just as described.  I keep a small cup of acetone on the workbench while i'm building.  When I'm ready to glue something, I pull the applicator, wipe the acetone off, and then dip it into the CA.  After I'm done, back into the acetone it goes.

There is a thread on here somewhere about this very thing.

On small PE parts I like to use some Blue Tac on a toothpick to pick up and hold the part, place a small amount of Ca glue on the part then place it on the surface.

I have used Future to attach PE to clear parts for years and haven't had any corrode. I also live in Florida where the humidity is always high. The PE parts still have the same color.

QUOTE: Originally posted by ryanpm Brass will rust, just not in the sense that iron will. Oxidation of metals can lead to many different results such as rust on iron, corrosion on brass, and corrosion on Aluminum. While the oxidation of those metals will look entirely different, they are in a sense undergoing the same changes. Aluminum reacts wil oxygen to form aluminum oxide, but this coating won't last forever. Nickel is a metal that won't corrode. Precious metals and tin and zinc are also good examples of metals that won't corrode at all or very well. It would have been helpful if I mentioned this in my post. Future will wear off and allow the brass to corrode. ;)

For any practical purpose your PE will not end up corroded on the model. Future is water based, however, all water will evaporate before any trace of corrosion can occur whatsoever. So unless you're planning on leaving your model soaking in future or water for long periods of time, nothing will happen.

As far as attaching them , i use gap-filling CA and a touch of accelerator if I need a really fast grab.

Only attach part of the rails at a time and hold on to the part you aren't gluing. Use CA accelerator to have the CA cure instantly.

Some help would be appreciated on attaching railings to ship hulls. I have a heck of a time holding them in place while the CA sets up - almost need a third hand. Any ideas on how to fix the PE railing in place for those important seconds?

Steve

Brass will rust, just not in the sense that iron will. Oxidation of metals can lead to many different results such as rust on iron, corrosion on brass, and corrosion on Aluminum. While the oxidation of those metals will look entirely different, they are in a sense undergoing the same changes. Aluminum reacts wil oxygen to form aluminum oxide, but this coating won't last forever. Nickel is a metal that won't corrode. Precious metals and tin and zinc are also good examples of metals that won't corrode at all or very well.

It would have been helpful if I mentioned this in my post. Future will wear off and allow the brass to corrode. ;)

Iron rusts, brass doesn't. And while brass will corrode in water if left long enough, the Future wlll dry long before what little water is in it has a chance to start the surface corroding. It will actually form a covering which like laquer will protect the brass surface.

Future is water based and will rust brass that isn't nickel plated over time.

If the particular piece piece of PE are applied flat (eg panels on certain A/C), Future can be very effective in attaching the part.

More about the needle. Wing_nut is right CA does build up after a while. However, touching the needle to a paper towel after use wicks off the excess CA and greatly reduces buildup. After several uses I take a hobby knife (my dull one) and chip off any buildup between the prongs, which is easy because the dry CA is brittle and most of it breaks right off with just two or three good chops with the blade.

This is also a great way to fill open gaps or close small holes.

A pin vise might be the best way to hold the needle, but I'm cheap.

You can use CA or Testors Cement for Wood and Metal which is my favorite to use. The Testors Cement can get very stringy though.

I'd like to expand on the needle aplicator idea. I bought a spool of thin wire at the hobby shop some time ago. I cut the short piece of wire (about 2 inches long) and chuck it into my pin vise. I then make a small loop at the end with my pliers. I use the loop end to pick up superglue to apply it to the model. When the loop becomes clogged, I cut off the loop and bend another one. I can usually work for hours like this.

Jesse

May I say "thanks alot" for the needle applicator idea. This sounds like a great way to apply accelerator, and will solve a lot of problems around the bench. The best ideas are always the simplest.

If I may add a suggestion to ChemMan’s procedure. The tool he describes is really very useful, just made one a few days ago and it is already one of the most used tools on the table, but not for the glue…. Use it for the accelerator… the fork will clog with glue in no time and be a “stick” I will use a sanding stick, if possible given the size of the part, to rough up the attachment point on the PE part. Same little puddle of CA like ChemMan and grabbing the PE with tweezers. Just touch the part to the glue or apply a tiny drop with a toothpick. Hold the part in place and apply a tiny amount of accelerator from a small cleaned out paint jar filled with accelerator, handy for dipping the “tool” in. The tool is small enough and you have enough control to put the drop just next to the part and let it run to it without actually touching the glue to clog the tool. It’s a nice controlled way to apply the accelerator. Repeated use of a brush, for me anyway, has hardened the bristles and turn it into a “stick” as well… hmmm lots of stick around my table… And using it right from the spray bottle covers the entire area, making the placement of the next part more difficult. With the entire piece saturated with accelerator, as soon as the next piece touches the surface… it is in its final resting place

I don't know about attaching PE to models, but superglue (CA) sure works well for attaching the parts to fingers.

Actually, I have found CA works best for me - though epoxy can also be used.

If you do go the superglue route, here is what I suggest.

1. Before you start take a needle and grind off the top of the eye until you have a tiny two pronged fork (eye protection while grinding a needle!!!). You will use this tool to apply the superglue. I stuck the pointy end of the needle into a wooden dowell for easy handling.

2. Hold the part securely with a pair of very small tweezers using your favored hand. You may have to fiddle with it some to find the best way to hold the part for attachment to the model.

3. Put a drop of superglue on a nonporous surface (I use masking tape) and touch the half-eye of the needle to the glue using your other hand to do the needle work. Capillary action will draw up the superglue into the little space between the prongs.

3. This is the hard part. Hold the part in place and touch the needle to the line of attachment. Capillary action will again draw the superglue from the needle and fill the attachment gap.

4. Have a bottle of superglue accelerator open and ready. The accelerator sets the superglue immediately when it is applied. While still holding the PE in place, put the needle down and dip a paintbrush in the accelerator. Touch the paintbrush to the attachment point and the superglue should set.

Viola. The part is attached. It takes practice, and I can't say I've totally mastered the technique, but it works better than any other method I've tried.