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Tenax - 7R ... yea or neah?

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  • Member since
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  • From: Southern Oregon, USA
Tenax - 7R ... yea or neah?
Posted by gedenke on Friday, June 29, 2007 12:53 AM
I recently tried some Tenax-7R and quite frankly, I'm not impressed. Maybe I didn't use it right but I feel like I got a better bond with my Testor's plastic cement. What are your experiences with it?
-Geoff There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss. — Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy'.
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  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Friday, June 29, 2007 10:23 AM
Works great for me. Did you follow the instructions on the bottle?

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  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Friday, June 29, 2007 10:41 AM

I use either an old, fine brush (I replaced the large, clunky one in an old Plastruct Pro-weld bottle with a cut-off of a dead 000 spotter.) or a Touch-n-flow applicator. Press the seam together, touch with applicator or brush. Capillary action will draw the liquid along the seam. I generally do between two and three inches of the seam at a time. Continue to hold parts together for about half a minute.

Tenax is really just methylene chloride, aka dichloromethane. You can buy larger quantities at any plastics supply and manufacturing outfit. I buy it by the gallon that way (lasts a long time). One manufacturer is Caseway, product name is SC-125. They also make inhibited varieties that have a slower evaporation rate. 

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

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  • From: A Spartan in the Wolverine State
Posted by rjkplasticmod on Friday, June 29, 2007 6:49 PM

I've been using Tenax for a long time & it works great for me.

Regards,  Rick

RICK At My Age, I've Seen It All, Done It All, But I Don't Remember It All...
  • Member since
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  • From: Southern Oregon, USA
Posted by gedenke on Friday, June 29, 2007 9:40 PM
Ok, I feel really stupid asking this, Sign - With Stupid [#wstupid] so let me swallow my pride and get it over with. Are you supposed to glue the joint with normal model glue first, attach the parts, then apply the Tenax? 'Cause I didn't, I figured it was supposed to "weld" the plastic together. Ok, you all can start making fun of me now! Propeller [8-]
-Geoff There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss. — Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy'.
  • Member since
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  • From: Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
Posted by DrewH on Friday, June 29, 2007 9:41 PM
I agree with Triarius. I get my glues from the local plastics supplier. Follow those simple instructions and you'll have no problem. Big Smile [:D]
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  • Member since
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  • From: Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
Posted by DrewH on Friday, June 29, 2007 9:49 PM

(laughing......kinda?) No. The Tenax is the glue. The point I see was missed is you need a slight gap when applying it. I'm talking about a 64th of an inch gap. Or better yet apply from the inside of the two parts.

Try this. Get two pieces (ie: wheel halves or airplane fuel tanks) and hold the two together lightly with an elastic band. put a razor blade in the seam opening a gap. Using a small brush or applicator, apply a small amount to the edge of the razor at the plastic. Pull out the razor and gently squeeze together. If a couple of small "plastic bubbles" come out - it's perfect. If nothing does, no problem. Wait a few moments and see if you can get it apart. If the glue got onto the edge of the plastic, it should be bonded. Ta-Da! Try it a few times untill you comfortable on some spare parts. Hope that helps a bit more.

 Drew

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  • Member since
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  • From: Southern Oregon, USA
Posted by gedenke on Friday, June 29, 2007 10:22 PM
Thanks, Drew, that does help. I'll try it again with your tips in mind. Problem is, when I tried it before, I spead it on like glue and joined the parts. I was a bit disgusted when said part literally fell of after what should've been adequate drying time.
-Geoff There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss. — Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy'.
  • Member since
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  • From: Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
Posted by DrewH on Friday, June 29, 2007 10:33 PM
AH, the infamous drying Tenax. It's really a solvent not a glue in the way you know it. The Tenax will soften the plastic then evaporate. If you wait too long, a few seconds is too long, the Tenax evaporates and the plastic re-hardens before it can bond. It takes a bit of getting used to, but once you do you'll never go to anything else.
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  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Friday, June 29, 2007 11:57 PM
I used the Tenax for years.  But, recently started using the Tamiya extra thin cement and have had better luck.  Still like the Tenax, just like the Tamiya stuff better.

Frank 

 

  • Member since
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  • From: houston texas
Posted by berserker on Monday, July 2, 2007 10:28 AM
does a 'touch-N-flow' applicator work with cyanoacrylate glues too and where do you get that stuff triarius is talking about
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Posted by Triarius on Monday, July 2, 2007 10:39 AM

 berserker wrote:
does a 'touch-N-flow' applicator work with cyanoacrylate glues too and where do you get that stuff triarius is talking about

 No. CA glues are true "glues." They will set up in any tube applicator (including their own Angry [:(!])

Look in your local phone book for plastics suppliers and fabricators. 

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

  • Member since
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  • From: Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
Posted by DrewH on Monday, July 2, 2007 10:41 AM

NO. Don't use your touch-n-flow with CA glue. If it dries in there, you need a new one.

I get my glue from a plastics supplier. The ones that sell 4X8 ft sheets of acrylic or polycarbonate. It's normally marked in cans for acrylic bonding. I get mine for about $8 CAD and that fills 4 Tenax bottles. Lasts me a good two years. You can get them in bigger containers, but it evaporates really fast if the lids are not air tight. The longer it sits, the greater chance of it evaporating. It also has a slightly stronger odor to it. HTH

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  • From: Calgary
Posted by MaxPower on Monday, July 2, 2007 2:18 PM
I get awesome results with Tamiya glue. I use regular and extra thin.
  • Member since
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  • From: Baton Rouge, LA
Posted by T_Terrific on Monday, July 2, 2007 3:17 PM

 Daywalker wrote:
I used the Tenax for years.  But, recently started using the Tamiya extra thin cement and have had better luck.  Still like the Tenax, just like the Tamiya stuff better.

I find it helps when using a product like this, essentially a liquid plastic welding solvent, it helps to first tack the two surfaces together (like two slightly warped fuselage or wing halves) with a CNA glue gel (I prefer the brushible Loctite gel I get from Wal-Mart), mainly applying it at the locating pins and corners. Then I come back with the plastic welder brush (I use the Ambroid product), running it along the inside seams, wicking it along gaps, etc., and using some tape or rubber bands to clamp the parts until it dries.

Tom Cowboy [C):-)]

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  • From: Dallas
Posted by KINGTHAD on Thursday, July 5, 2007 12:29 PM

I used Tenax for a long time and have no problems with it, however Tamiya does evaporate slower and you have a little more time before it sets.

 

Thad 

  • Member since
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  • From: Smithers, BC, Canada
Posted by ruddratt on Thursday, July 5, 2007 5:32 PM

 Daywalker wrote:
I used the Tenax for years.  But, recently started using the Tamiya extra thin cement and have had better luck.  Still like the Tenax, just like the Tamiya stuff better.

I just ordered 3 bottles of it based on this post, so it better work! Tongue [:P] Wink [;)]

Mike

 "We have our own ammunition. It's filled with paint. When we fire it, it makes pretty pictures....scares the hell outta people."

 

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  • From: Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
Posted by DrewH on Thursday, July 5, 2007 7:55 PM
Mike, we forget to say it doesn't work on bi-planes Laugh [(-D] It's too modern for that.Mischief [:-,]
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Posted by Moon Puppy on Thursday, July 5, 2007 8:04 PM
I've picked up the hobby after 15 years. I found 2 bottles unopen and 2 open, all is still as good. Using it now with no problems at all.

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  • Member since
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  • From: Smithers, BC, Canada
Posted by ruddratt on Thursday, July 5, 2007 8:50 PM

 DrewH wrote:
Mike, we forget to say it doesn't work on bi-planes Laugh [(-D] It's too modern for that.Mischief [:-,]

LOL!! Laugh [(-D]

Mike

 "We have our own ammunition. It's filled with paint. When we fire it, it makes pretty pictures....scares the hell outta people."

 

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Posted by Kevleerey on Saturday, July 7, 2007 10:58 PM
Anyone else having trouble finding Ambroid Proweld? It's backordered several places around here. Production trouble or something maybe? They said they couldn't get an ingredient or something I think.
--------------Kevin
  • Member since
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  • From: Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
Posted by DrewH on Saturday, July 7, 2007 11:37 PM
Yup, here too. Also Alclad II has been banned from hobby shops. 3 city shops were pinched by the has-mat police. I like keeping a bottle of Pro Weld handy incase of a lid being left off, but no more.
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Posted by ruddratt on Sunday, July 8, 2007 12:03 AM

Seriously Drew? Un-freakin'-believable.

Glad I stocked up when I did.

Mike

 "We have our own ammunition. It's filled with paint. When we fire it, it makes pretty pictures....scares the hell outta people."

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
Posted by DrewH on Sunday, July 8, 2007 10:23 AM
Yup, Abbotsford, Richmond and Burnaby shops got pinched. Fortunatly our favorite shop found out and 'hides' his for the known customersWink [;)]
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Posted by Triarius on Sunday, July 8, 2007 12:33 PM

 DrewH wrote:
Yup, here too. Also Alclad II has been banned from hobby shops. 3 city shops were pinched by the has-mat police. I like keeping a bottle of Pro Weld handy incase of a lid being left off, but no more.

That (the ban) is just plain stupid, in the strictest meaning of the term. 

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

  • Member since
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  • From: Smithers, BC, Canada
Posted by ruddratt on Sunday, July 8, 2007 1:49 PM

 DrewH wrote:
Yup, Abbotsford, Richmond and Burnaby shops got pinched. Fortunatly our favorite shop found out and 'hides' his for the known customersWink [;)]

He's da man!!!

Mike

 "We have our own ammunition. It's filled with paint. When we fire it, it makes pretty pictures....scares the hell outta people."

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
Posted by DrewH on Sunday, July 8, 2007 4:28 PM

 Triarius wrote:
That (the ban) is just plain stupid, in the strictest meaning of the term. 

I agree totaly Ross. They focused on Alclad, but didn't bother with the bottles of Testors Laquer thinner, or metalizers. What's the diffrence? Nothing- to this cowboy!Angry [:(!]

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, July 9, 2007 4:50 AM

 DrewH wrote:
Yup, here too. Also Alclad II has been banned from hobby shops. 3 city shops were pinched by the has-mat police. I like keeping a bottle of Pro Weld handy incase of a lid being left off, but no more.

Why were those products banned?  Are they banned every where?

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  • From: Georgia
Posted by Screaminhelo on Wednesday, July 11, 2007 8:01 PM

The Ban appears to be a Canadian thing.  I just picked up some here in Atlanta today and the LHS knew nothing about it.  Try ordering it from the States or getting someone here to send you some.

 

Mac

I Didn't do it!!!

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  • From: Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
Posted by DrewH on Wednesday, July 11, 2007 8:37 PM

 Living Legend wrote:
Why were those products banned?  Are they banned every where?

No, seems to be more of a local thing the more I hear about it. Just some "new to the job" compo employee wanting to make a name for themselves in all likelyhood. I get that it's dangerous, but why they focused on Alclad is anyones guess.

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