Thinking the new coat of TS-3 is a bit drastic as the Ambush scheme looked good.

Anyhow now you are set for a whitewash! Unless the whitewash was applied at the factory DO weather, wash and damage the TS-3 as per a used vehicle.

Now the vehicle looks like it served a few weeks outdoors you are ready for the hairspray!

For chipped areas salt is still king, apply with water and allow to dry. The hairspray drys fairly quick and flat yet do practice before committing. Once the white is dry to the touch start your weathering of it, if its stubborn wet the area to loosen the hairspray.

Have fun & post the WIP's!

Hey SF,

The Scheme looked VERY good until I hit it with that bloody rattlecan gloss!

This was done a long time ago and I was still learning big time. I wasn't too clued up on filters back then and didn't know about Vallejo Acrylic Varnishes which you use in the air brush - I use the Vallejo varnishes now.

I could have kept the basecoat on as it was but the MIG whitewash had left a sort of residue and I don't know how it would have liked the Klear coat. I like the Dunky colour on it's own and thought a fresh surface would work well so it got covered up.

The plan is to probably remove the Schurzen, replace the band tracks with Friuls, fit new decals and weather as normal. I'll then hit it with the Klear and Hairspray and take it from there. This will be a nice little project imo!

Cheers,

Ben

It will be interesting to watch this one return from the dead. Going to be quite different then the original.

If I may: I disagree w/Supressionfire about the salt method. It's an all or none kind of deal.  You sprinkle salt, paint, and remove all the paint on top of the salt.

With hairspray, you just scrub until it looks good.  You can moderate the wear to a great deal --- from subtle to heavy paint wear.  I find salt method style to be too harsh and unforgiving.  That's my opinion.

T26E4

If I may: I disagree w/Supressionfire about the salt method. It's an all or none kind of deal.  You sprinkle salt, paint, and remove all the paint on top of the salt.

With hairspray, you just scrub until it looks good.  You can moderate the wear to a great deal --- from subtle to heavy paint wear.  I find salt method style to be too harsh and unforgiving.  That's my opinion.

Hi guys,

A couple of questions before I go to bed?

• Should I do any washes etc on the Hetzer as it is now pre whitewash or should I just do the decals and the Klear, add the hairspray and white base then use that as my starting point for weathering?
• Should I thin the white paint with water or normal thinner?
• I'm assumming the Balkenrauz should be left visible? If so should there be a rough patch where it's been left clear surrounding it?
• Should I start the whitewash scrubbing and chipping as soon as the white has set i.e. just dry to the touch?
• Any other tips?
• I do want to try the salt method too but this is the one method I want to perfect first.

Cheers fellas,

Ben

T26E4

If I may: I disagree w/Supressionfire about the salt method. It's an all or none kind of deal.  You sprinkle salt, paint, and remove all the paint on top of the salt.

With hairspray, you just scrub until it looks good.  You can moderate the wear to a great deal --- from subtle to heavy paint wear.  I find salt method style to be too harsh and unforgiving.  That's my opinion.

Hi guys,

A couple of questions before I go to bed?

• Should I do any washes etc on the Hetzer as it is now pre whitewash or should I just do the decals and the Klear, add the hairspray and white base then use that as my starting point for weathering?
• Should I thin the white paint with water or normal thinner?
• I'm assumming the Balkenrauz should be left visible? If so should there be a rough patch where it's been left clear surrounding it?
• Should I start the whitewash scrubbing and chipping as soon as the white has set i.e. just dry to the touch?
• Any other tips?
• I do want to try the salt method too but this is the one method I want to perfect first.

Cheers fellas,

Ben

Ben,

Ben, you can get everything you need form the HS method. I would wait until AFTER you HS it and do your scrubbing and wear/weathering to add some washes.

Interesting replies!

'When in doubt, practice on a scrap sheet of styrene'

I still say weather the tank somewhat BEFORE applying the whitewash. This will give a more layered and aged look, yet many were whitewashed BEFORE entering service at the factory. References will help on that one.

Hairspray is great for scrapes and dings, chips still look best using the salt. Try both on the practice sheet, as all techniques everyone has a favorite and a opinion.

Looking forward to the results and will follow along.

Good project you decided to tackle, would make a interesting article.

Cheers guys,

Can anyone help with the questions I posted previously?

Also, can I brush the Klear on or does it have to be air brushed on? If I air brush it on will the usual cleaning methods suffice as it's pretty yucky stuff? I hear it's self-levelling so a light brush coat would be okay I assume?

Do I need to de-cant the hairspray or can I spray it straight from the can in a few light layers.

Thanks folks,

Ben  

Cheers guys,

Can anyone help with the questions I posted previously?

Also, can I brush the Klear on or does it have to be air brushed on? If I air brush it on will the usual cleaning methods suffice as it's pretty yucky stuff? I hear it's self-levelling so a light brush coat would be okay I assume?

Do I need to de-cant the hairspray or can I spray it straight from the can in a few light layers.

Thanks folks,

Ben  

Hinksy

 

 

A couple of questions before I go to bed?

• Should I do any washes etc on the Hetzer as it is now pre whitewash or should I just do the decals and the Klear, add the hairspray and white base then use that as my starting point for weathering?

If you really want to be thorough, do TWO washes--one to weather the undercoat of DY, and then one to weather the whitewash. That's what I would do/have done. Also, it depends on how much DY you're going to let show? If it's a really thin layer of whitewash with mostly DY showing, then weather the DY and add the white; then do small pinwashes in the white. And YES--add the decals first!

• Should I thin the white paint with water or normal thinner?

Water will be fine.

• I'm assumming the Balkenrauz should be left visible? If so should there be a rough patch where it's been left clear surrounding it?

Yes, and yes.

• Should I start the whitewash scrubbing and chipping as soon as the white has set i.e. just dry to the touch?

I would--it makes it easier to remove.

• Any other tips?

Spray the hair spray directly from the can. Spray it like you would paint--from side to side, and about 6 inches away. Wait for about 30 minutes to dry, then add your whitewash. If you attack it after about another half-hour, you will have an easier time removing it. Also, you can use a hair dryer to speed up drying time, or just to be sure its dried.

• I do want to try the salt method too but this is the one method I want to perfect first.

The salt method is less predictable and more unforgiving than the HS method. Salt also corrodes and taints some paints. I personally have not tried it yet, but plan to in the future as well.

Cheers fellas,

Ben

Hinksy

Cheers guys,

Can anyone help with the questions I posted previously?

Also, can I brush the Klear on or does it have to be air brushed on? If I air brush it on will the usual cleaning methods suffice as it's pretty yucky stuff? I hear it's self-levelling so a light brush coat would be okay I assume?

Do I need to de-cant the hairspray or can I spray it straight from the can in a few light layers.

Thanks folks,

Ben  

Hi Ben

You can just brush it on, but I always airbrush it.  I get a nice thin, even coat that way.  I use Windex to clean out my airbrush, then spray a half paint cup of iso, and I've never had any problems.

Good luck

Thanks for the answers Karl - just what I wanted.

It was an all over DY so to give it a bit of interest and some different colours to show through the whitewash I've painted the spare track runs, rear convoy light, muffler (needs another coat btw), Jack and Block and periscope. Decals are now on - I've kept them basic and have added two Balkenrauz.

The tracks pop off easily enough so I'll remove them for proper painting again after the whitewash is done. The spray took off the tyre rubber so I've gone round each one and have brushed on a rough rim of Vallejo Dark Rubber - nothing neat as it will mostly be covered up. 

I've brush painted the Future on and it seems to have settled nice and evenly, I'll give it another coat later to seal the decals and freshly painted areas and I'll then have to wait until the start of my Chrismas break to start this. My last day is on Wednesday so by then the Klear will nicely set and I'll go for it!

One question - I'm going to leave most of the model whitewashed with just the usual scrapes and areas of high wear being beaten up. I'll leave the Periscope totally covered up so it stays untouched by the whitewash and I'll also remove the bulk from the Jack and Block and spare tracks to let some different colours peep through. I'm assuming it's just a case of toothpicks, old stiff-bristled brushes and other tools? Any pointers on good methods to remove the whitewash 'realistically'?

This could be a very nice little Hetzer if I get it right. I've been doing a lot of work on that Tiger so it's nice to get something else on the bench for a while. 

• I hope I'm doing this right so far - please don't hesitate to tell me if I'm doing anything wrong! The one thing that seems to happen occasionally is the whitewash cracking on the surface. What can be done to avoid this happening?

One more light coat of Klear and she's ready for hairspray and whitewash on Thursday:

Please let me know what you think guys - is she good to go?

Have a good week everyone, a week today and it'll be Christmas!

All the best,

Ben  

Ben,

Best of luck to you, I've never tried the hairspray method either and am looking forward to seeing how things work out.

If I may throw in one question of my own guys, I've read in some cases the whitewash was applied somewhat sloppy using a broom. In this case would it be better to put the ww coat on with a brush instead of an airbrush?

Cliff

Gamera

Ben,

If I may throw in one question of my own guys, I've read in some cases the whitewash was applied somewhat sloppy using a broom. In this case would it be better to put the ww coat on with a brush instead of an airbrush?

Cliff

Hey Cliff,

Good question - anyone got suggestions? I suppose it's very easy to do with a brush but I imagine the fine coat of white laid down by an ab would beeasier to chip away at and remove? Maybe?

I've done some more detail painting and have her looking spot-on now. The muffler is perfect, the rear convoy light is sorted and I somehow manged to find the kit tow cable that fits on the back between the idlers and below the Muffler and I've painted it and fixed

I'm looking forwards to this now!

All the best,

Ben

Hey Ben,

You should dig out the FSM where my King Tiger is on the cover in whitewash--I cover a LOT of this stuff in there. In photos. I think it would help answer some things for you.

Anyway--yes, you could "slop" the WW on. Perfectly feasible and realistic. Also, use whatever you can get your hands on to remove the hair spray. I used the usual stiff brushes, toothpicks, picks, exacto blade--for scratches and such.

Again, dig out that issue--or get a back issue. January 2011.

the doog

Hey Ben,

You should dig out the FSM where my King Tiger is on the cover in whitewash--I cover a LOT of this stuff in there. In photos. I think it would help answer some things for you.

Anyway--yes, you could "slop" the WW on. Perfectly feasible and realistic. Also, use whatever you can get your hands on to remove the hair spray. I used the usual stiff brushes, toothpicks, picks, exacto blade--for scratches and such.

Again, dig out that issue--or get a back issue. January 2011.

Wow Karl!

How spooky is that! I've just being going through my magazines having a sort out and looking for useful articles and clearing the unwanted stuff out.

I've selected three magazines and lo and behold - this is one of them!

A lovely build, I'm going to have a read now.

It's on page 26 and covers 4 double page spreads! Brilliant!

Cheers Karl,

Ben

Thanks Karl, I've got that issue somewhere. Gives me an excuse to clean the bench!

Good deal, Ben! Glad to help in any way I can! It's good to know that the published piece is helping you out!

You too, Gamera--glad you may find it useful too!

......

This thread gave me the idea to re-do my 1/48 Hetzer that I built a couple of years ago. So, after 30 mins with some Promodeller weathering wash and some thinned acrylics, I got from this;

to this;

I'm quite pleased with how it's come out, so thanks for giving me the idea Hinksy!

No problem Alex,

It's actually a great little build - simple to assemle, no frills and looks great. A good newbie build imo.

I must say you did a great job with that cammo scheme

I'm only working for the next three days so I'll get whitewashing on Thursday and hope to have a nice hairspray build.

Watch this space. I've done some extra detail painting so I'll post a photo later on prior to whitewashing!

Cheers guys,

Ben

Alex: Looks great to me, showroom new to dirty and grimy!

Ben: Looking forward to seeing how things work out for you. Who knows? I might try a 'Battle of the Bulge' whitewashed Sherman this coming year.

Hi guys,

Righto, I'm off from work now to return on the 3rd January 2012. Yesterday was actually my first day off but a lot of last minute Christmas shopping and trying to choose a new car at various garages ate that day up. I've got a full schedule tomorrow so I'll be at the bench from Boxing Day (Monday 26th) onwards.

The Tiger is ready for painting etc but I wanted a little break from that hence this Hetzer job!

It's got fresh new decals and is fully coated in Klear. I've gone over the whole thing and added splashes of colour wherever possible i.e. tools, mufler, spare tracks, MG and convoy light / periscopes. I've also given the rubber portions of the road wheels a light  but 'rough' covering of Vallejo Dark Rubber. 

The photos have come out a little bit 'green' but trust me, nothing has changed from the previous pictures in terms of colour.

Because of it's size (small) I'm probably going to put it on a 'simple winter scene' base.

• One question - how long does the hairspray need to be on the model before I can start appyling the white?

Ready for whitewash:

That's her ready for the whitewash which, like I say, will be done on Monday.

Cheers guys,

Ben  

Nice work on you Hetzer, will be eagerly waiting for the whitewash

I can't answer your question but I do have on for you; How do you create the rust on the muffler?

Ben, you can start applying the white as soon as the hair spray is dry. I usually give it an hour or so. You really don't need an excessively long time for it to "cure" or anything.

And start degrading and scrubbing the white off as soon as it is dry--give it 15-20 minutes, tops. It will be much easier to work with then than if you let it fully harden for hours.

Cheers guys,

Thanks for that helpful info Karl

Alex - This muffler was actually a real rush job and I did nothing special to it. I painted it with Raw umber Oil paint (Windsor and Newton) and when that was dry (left overnight) I hit it with MIG light and dark rust pigments. The pigments give it the appearance of a rough texture and the rust a sense of depth. I used pigments fixer and tiny amounts of pigments in a little Pallette to mix things up from - pigment fixer in one pallette cup and the pigments themselves in the other cups. I start by covering the muffler with a light brushing of fixer then dabbing dark rust pigment and light rust pigment over it them 'roughing' it up with an old brush to give that rough rusty appearance.

After the whitewash and weathering is done I'll hit the tailpipe with a black soot pigment and also the white area directly behind the pipe to give the impression of a sooty residue.

Hope this helps matey. You don't need pigment fixer; water, or enamel thinners work great too.

All the best,

Ben   

Hi guys,

Okay; I managed to get the hairspray method to work but the build came out far from how I'd planned

I know where I went wrong - I over did the water application and probably could have given the paint another 10 minutes before I attacked it. You've probably noticed the 'black' area on the right side below the Periscope - I picked up the wrong brush (it was loaded with black soot pigment) and managed to make a bit of a mess! DOH!

I'm a bit dissapointed but I'm really glad that I tried it. Now I know where I went wrong I'll definately try it again.

I need to decide wether to carry on with the Tiger I now or build that Marder II I just bought - I can't decide and need to as I'm planning a days modelling tomorrow! Tiger I painting or Marder assembly?

Anyway, I know it's not exactly FSM stuff but this is how it turned out :

Thanks for looking guys and NO LAUGHING!

Seriously, I've learnt something from this - you can expect more hairspray work from me, I've just gotta get my technique sorted!!

Now then, what do you want? Completion of Tiger '100' or a snazzy little Marder II assembly?

Cheers guys and thanks for all the hints and tips!

All the best,

Ben  

Ben,

Half the fun in the hobby IMHO is experimenting and trying out new techniques. Older models are just the ticket for this sort of thing and your effort accomplished what you were after...it gave you an opportunity to try out something new relatively risk free...so the next one will be better for it. I keep old models around for just this sort of thing as test beds. The hairspray technique is one that's out of bounds for me since I work with enamels but it is always interesting to see what others are able to do with it. Keep up the science lab efforts!

Ben, I don't know if you realize this or not, but you actually have the perfect platform for a second application of hair spray and whitewash, and a second pass at the technique will lend an excellent well-abused coat of whitewash. Don't give up now! Take what you've learned, use a wet BRUSH ONLY!--NOT a liberal coating of water this time--and try a second application.

"Professional level" weathering is best done in layers---I generally apply several layers to my worst-abused finishes. It lends depth and variety that is impossible in one pass. Get your stuff out again and go with another pass. Seriously--don't give up now!