SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Recasting kits.

11367 views
45 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Monday, March 23, 2009 8:53 AM
I may have a spare Space Marine kit that I could part with, it will most likely never get built. Now finding it in my maze of moving boxes filled with models will be the hard part.
  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Monday, March 23, 2009 8:49 AM
I make my casting boxes from Legos. I can make any shape and size. Once the RTV is cured it is easy to disassemble to blocks to expose the RTV.

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Monday, March 23, 2009 7:25 AM

 smeagol the vile wrote:
no I really appreciate the tips Hans, where would I go about finding someone to recast it for me and how much would one cost

Don't expect a reputable person to do this for you. They would be violating copyright laws. Doing it yourself for your own use is a gray area as far as legality goes and giving, selling, exchanging, or distributling these in any way is clearly a violation of copyright. Take a look around some of the other nodeling sites to see how pirates are reviled in the hobby, even for OOP stuff.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Philadelphia PA
Posted by smeagol the vile on Sunday, March 22, 2009 10:15 PM
Alright, though I wont beable to for a bit, got 150$ to my name, and I have some expensies coming up... may need to buy a new compy of windows... (farking microsoft, I hatem)

 

  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: Southern California
Posted by ModelNerd on Sunday, March 22, 2009 6:08 PM
 smeagol the vile wrote:

...What EXACTLY would I need?

I'd start with this: Item #82698 at www.micromark.com

http://www.micromark.com/COMPLETE-RESIN-CASTING-STARTER-SET,8174.html

This should be more than enough to get started.

To inject resin into your completed mold, you can obtain a large plastic syringe from most medical supply houses, or a needle-tipped hair color squeeze bottle from a local hair salon supply store. Then, pursuant to Ross' question, have a look at my website.

All this can be purchased for around $100.

 

- Mark

  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: Southern California
Posted by ModelNerd on Sunday, March 22, 2009 6:00 PM
 Triarius wrote:

...I keep forgetting about Harbor Freight! Thanks, Mark!

BTW, where is your book available? Smeagol the Vile might want a copy (so might I—no doubt  there's something in it I haven't figured out yet.) 

No problem Ross.

If I mention where to get the book here, the brownshirts will likely take offense, so I'll just say have you visited my website lately?

 

- Mark

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Philadelphia PA
Posted by smeagol the vile on Sunday, March 22, 2009 4:01 PM

this is something I definatly want to learn, especially for like, trying new techniques and stuff, why ruin the main piece when you can make a few copies of it to work on. as well as for casting things like weapons helmets accessors etc.

Well, 100$ isnt ALOT of money to me, im comfortable spending 100$ if im going to get something for it, but more, then its an issue, at one time, like if I had to buy 80$ kit from micromark then another 50$ in stuff, that would be a problem

What EXACTLY would I need?

 

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Sunday, March 22, 2009 3:39 PM

I'm not trying to discourage Smeagol... I'm tryin' to encourage him to first crawl, then walk, then run... After 20 or so years, I'm confident in my "walk-phase"...Big Smile [:D]   For instance, pressure pots and such? I never even had an airbrush compressor until 6 months ago, lol..  Smeagol might just suddenly tweak onto something I, you, or anyone else never thought of and *poof*, become the next Resin Baron, as you correctly point out...  I just don't wanna see him give up because it got "too much, too soon"...

Sorry Smeagol, don't mean to talk like you ain't here...  Many of my castings were not resin either.. I used a lot of different techniques and materials, mostly re-inventing the wheel... Using plasters, auto-body fillers, various silicones, melting styrene into foil molds... just about everything except what I shoulda used in the first damn place, lol... Heck, I figure 40% was sustainable since I didn't spend a lot of money in the first place, y'know...  At any rate, I ain't shootin' him down, just covering his 6...  And should you ever decide you need to donate a copy of your book to a broke-azz college student that goes ape-ca-ca over sci-fi, well...Whistling [:-^]

 

 

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Sunday, March 22, 2009 3:34 PM
 ModelNerd wrote:
<snip>

getting an overall 60% failure rate, I'd suggest in the spirit of being helpful that there might be something wrong with your mold setup or technique (not a jab, don't take it as such). Even when I was casting without a pressure pot, my failure rate was never more than around 10-15%.

Mine ran anywhere from 15 to 60%. Mold setup, chosing the best resin, etc. is non-trivial, and the only way to really learn seems to be the Edison approach (finding 1000 things that don't work on the way to finding the one that does.) 

 ModelNerd wrote:
<snip>A pressure pot will indeed add to the cost, however. The pot will cost around $60 on sale from Harbor Freight <snip>

I keep forgetting about Harbor Freight! Thanks, Mark!

BTW, where is your book available? Smeagol the Vile might want a copy (so might I—no doubt  there's something in it I haven't figured out yet.) 

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: Southern California
Posted by ModelNerd on Sunday, March 22, 2009 2:37 PM

So much discouragement? We're modelers, gentlemen! We do what we like! (And often whether it's practical or not. I mean, what's really practical about modeling in the first place?) We learn from our personal mistakes, and grow in knowledge from getting our hands dirty and spending money we really don't have! We enjoy the journey! We enjoy the challenge! This is half the fun of what we do!

Hans is right in the point that it is not inexpensive to cast your own parts. Even MicroMark's smallest volume casting kit will set you back around $80 or so dollars. But Hans, if you have been casting for 20 years and still are getting an overall 60% failure rate, I'd suggest in the spirit of being helpful that there might be something wrong with your mold setup or technique (not a jab, don't take it as such). Even when I was casting without a pressure pot, my failure rate was never more than around 10-15%.

When I started using a pressure pot, my failure rate dropped to less than maybe 5%, quite acceptible. A pressure pot will indeed add to the cost, however. The pot will cost around $60 on sale from Harbor Freight, a decent compressor will be a minimum of around $150-$200.

If pressure pots and compressors are not a practical expenditure, you can minimize trapped air by "injecting" the resin (rather than pouring) into the mold, either with a plastic syringe or with a hairdresser's plastic hair color applicator squeeze bottle (available at most hair supply shops).

After basically teaching myself about molding and casting, I wrote a book about it for those starting out, to get them up and running faster than I did. So far I have sold over 100 copies, so there must be an audience for this subject. I started to design and make aftermarket sets for my own projects, and fund them by selling copies to other modelers.

Above: Home made cast resin cowl for Polikarpov I-16 (1:48)

Currently at my work, we're building a studio scale (around 6 ft long) Battlestar Galactica model ship, which is encrusted with resin copies of model kit parts, a few thousand of them. Their failure rate is maybe 1-2%. (But in all fairness it's important to remember they de-gas their silicone (under vacuum) before pouring a mold.) Molding and casting goes on all day long. I have since learned a great deal about mold layout. Both Hans and Gerald are quite right that it would be impractical to attempt to mold an entire tree of parts. Instead, you'll want to clip the parts, then arrange them closely on a slab of modeling clay. These are just rough details, we can go into greater detail if needed when you're actually ready to construct your molds.

Smeagol, I encourage you to follow your passion and curiosity on casting. Who knows? Your desire to learn today might cause you to end up being the newest big wheel in aftermarket resin tomorrow. For me, my dabbling in casting helped to get me a job later when my professional career (real estate appraisal) collapsed from the housing/lending crisis. I say go for it, dude.

Regards-

- Mark

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Philadelphia PA
Posted by smeagol the vile on Sunday, March 22, 2009 1:56 PM
no I really appreciate the tips Hans, where would I go about finding someone to recast it for me and how much would one cost

 

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Sunday, March 22, 2009 11:20 AM

Like I said, it's all about how much you wanna spend... But you may as well forget the whole thing until you can cast multiple parts in one go, man... I'm not kidding, nor am I exaggerating about cost...

I've watched you work and post since I joined last summer, and I gotta say in all honesty that the one thing that you are consistant in is bein' broke...  Don't take this wrong, cuz I'm not trying to discourage you, only make you think a bit more before you go off and pour (pun intended) some real money down the drain after recieving a bunch of advice from well-meaning but misdirected modelers who could pull it off without much effort (just money)...  The theory is sound enough... It's putting it into practice that'll cost ya...  I've been casting parts for a long time, altogether about 20 years, and I wasn't kidding about rejection rates...

I have been wanting to try recasting anyhow for a while now, and this would be a good oppertunity I think

The scale of casting that you're talking about, with a kit as rare you claim, is no time to "try" it... You'd better have it down to a science before you even start using irreplacable masters for "Plinking" and be able to do it in your sleep...  Also, keep in mind that casting the entire tree would be a colossal waste of casting material... 40% of your resin outlay costs would be in making parts that aren't parts in the first place.. Best re-think that idea as well.. When you're casting your own stuff, you want as little sprue as possible in order to save money on resin... It's NOT cheap, although it gets cheaper by the gallon, for sure...

At any rate, I'll quit bustin' your chops about it, but highly advise that you "practice" on a some parts you don't care about or better yet, parts you'll have to use on a regular basis on other kit-types (I for instance, make several copies of certain kit parts that can be used on other kits, like radios, tires, wheels, and the like)  

Over the years, I've tried several different casting resins, and I'm happiest with Alumalite, but there's no single "best one" for every application that I'm aware of... It's all pretty subjective...

have you ever woked with the resin set micromark sells?

Micromark's good stuff, just not what I use most often... 

 

And start small! I wouldn't try to make a mold of a whole tree. You can't replicate the styrene casting process, and the trees are designed for that process. You will need separate the parts and cast them that way. 

The above needed repeating..Wink [;)]

Anyway, I won't belabor the points with you anymore, except to say once again, you would be well-advised to sink the money into getting a pro to cast your parts rather than doing yourself...  I'd also start by corresponding with some resin kit-makers and researching the process pretty extensively before you go any farther.. Follow-up Ross's links too... He's got some knowledge here..  Trust me, you ain't the first guy to think this idea up...

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Sunday, March 22, 2009 10:52 AM

Everything Hans said is essentially correct—been there, done that. From what you say, it's obviously worth the time and effort to you. However, vac-forming, as Hans said, is much easier and more economical.

Go to Smooth-on and Bare-Metal-Foil and read their tutorials. Both places will be happy to talk to you over the phone, too, and the Smooth-on folks are very helpful.

Three things you will need are a pressure pot, a compressor capable of generating at least 100 psi. These will reduce your failure rate to an acceptable level. The third is a spray booth or other ventilation system in the room where you do the casting.

And start small! I wouldn't try to make a mold of a whole tree. You can't replicate the styrene casting process, and the trees are designed for that process. You will need separate the parts and cast them that way. 

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Philadelphia PA
Posted by smeagol the vile on Sunday, March 22, 2009 9:12 AM

This is something I really want to do, as much as it may cost, for a few reasons.  One them being extremly rare, I also doubt lobbying academy would work, because they would need to get permission from blizzard entertainment to do it, I would think, for the licensing, there kits based out of a game.

Second I have been wanting to try recasting anyhow for a while now, and this would be a good oppertunity I think

third, they only put out one kit, but put extra pieces for the variations on the unit (marine to medic or to firebat)

fourth, the second kit, alot of the pieces are vinyl and people say they have had a hard time with them, if I could even attempt to get it into a more... friendly medium, I'd be happy.

 

 

have you ever woked with the resin set micromark sells? http://www.micromark.com/COMPLETE-RESIN-CASTING-STARTER-SET,8174.html

 

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Sunday, March 22, 2009 8:53 AM

First of all, unless you're made of money, fergit about it... You'll spend several hundred dollars just on the trial & error of building mold-boxes, making molds,  & pouring resin...  IMHO, it ain't worth it, unless this "Grail-kit" has only about eight parts...

Second, we all know you ain't made of money...

Third, if you absolutely insist on it, buy a casting kit, like Alumilite, and practice casting just part of ONE partial tree of parts from a kit you hate in a two-piece mold and get back to me on the results... Personally, I think you'll quit trying before you ever successfully cast ONE tree, let alone an entire kit's worth..

If it was easy and practical, everyone would would do it, Smeagol... Just casting single parts in a two-piece mold can drive you to drink with a rejection rate of about 3 outta 5 being the norm...

You'd be better off finding a professional shop to do the work for you, but your per unit kit cost will be way more than the original ever was...

But, to answer your question, you'll need mold-making material (RTV rubber and mold-boxes), casting resin, and LOTS of patience...

If it's the kit subject you want to keep building, I'd highly recommend that you build and learn how to vacuform sub assemblies and cast detail parts in resin and white metal...

 

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Sunday, March 22, 2009 8:43 AM

First do you really want to tackle a major project such as this. Your going to have to create a two part mold which probably will not give you the results you are looking for. To get the resin to travel down the gateways to all points and corners will not be an easy task. You'd have to break them into small sections. The mold making and casting are going to be tough and expensive...are you sure about this?

Why not lobby Academy to repop them?

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Philadelphia PA
Recasting kits.
Posted by smeagol the vile on Saturday, March 21, 2009 8:57 PM

I may be coming into aquisition of a couple of kits that are extremly rare, semi grail kits, atleast to me.  They have been out of production for years, there the Academy 1/30th scale Starcraft kits. 

I want to cast the trees in resin so I can build a few, or just not build the origionals, what would I need and how would I go about doing it?

 

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.