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Recommendations for a beginner

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  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Friday, June 9, 2017 2:27 PM

Who cares if you forgot to paint the bottom side. You're not gonna see it when you display it anyway. LOL!

  • Member since
    April 2017
Posted by Wildcatfan247 on Wednesday, June 14, 2017 1:04 PM

Not the chassis, it was the bottom 4th of the body.

  • Member since
    December 2013
  • From: Orlando Florida
Posted by route62 on Wednesday, June 14, 2017 8:55 PM

Go with a resperator.  A dusk mask is not enough.  Resperator filters last a lot longer for modelers since we are not spraying gallons of paint.  If you have a floor drain in your basement, you can run a spray booth vent tube into the drain.

I have been airbrushing for over 20 years and my first airbrush was a paasche H.  I still have it and still use it even though I now have 4 other airbrushes that are a lot more expensive then the paasche.  This is just personal opinion and other name brand starter airbrushes I am sure are just as good.

As others have mentioned, don't get a Chinese airbrush.  You will get frustrated and ruin all your hard work.  Chinese brushes do not smooth out the needle and fit and finish on the internals are bad.  The seals are usually weak and you end up with nothing but problems.

Join a local model group and ask some of the members their experience.  Some of them may even let you try their setup.  I have let new modelers come and try my setup so they can make a decision.

  • Member since
    April 2017
Posted by Wildcatfan247 on Thursday, June 15, 2017 12:36 PM

95% of the paint I use is Acrylic so I just go with the dust mask.  I spray outdoors when I use enamels or lacquers but that is a good tip about getting a respirator.

  • Member since
    June 2003
Posted by Jammer on Saturday, June 17, 2017 11:33 AM

Welcome to the hobby!  As someone who started the hobby on the poor side of life, don’t start stocking up on expensive toys and tools until you’re sure you want to make that investment.   I’ve found there are a lot of everyday things that can be multi-purposed into modeling tools.  Here’s my poor man’s guide to getting started.  And keep in mind, this is the starter kit.  You’ll start expanding soon.
 
Sprue cutters: Eventually you’ll want to get these, but in the interim, use a nail clippers.  I still keep a new nail clipper on my workbench.  It gets a close cut to the part without gouging the plastic, it is great on smaller parts, and is effective in trimming little bits of excess plastic or small flash.
 
Sandpaper:  You can get model specific sandpaper, but I prefer a home improvement store for coarse grits and an auto parts store for finer grits.  Get a sanding sponge (the thin flat kind in a) while you’re there.  It allows a lot of flexibility in sanding different shapes.  And wet sand as often as you can.  It makes things go smoother.
Hobby knife: Here’s where I recommend you fork out a little extra and get one that will take a replaceable  #11 blade.  Don’t buy the model company no-replacement blade knives; they wear out way too quickly.  The #11 blade knives are great for shaving parts, removing flash, cutting out decals, and even cutting parts from the sprue.  You want to replace the blades when they get dull … which happens much quicker than you’d think. 
 
Glue: Have plastic glue and super glue (cyanoacrylate / CA).  Liquid glue is worth the investment as it is easier to use and not as messy.  But get a brush to go with it, a thin brush.  A thicker brush will end up putting too much glue into a seam and it will leak out the other side (so I’ve heard ).  I use an old sable brush that I retired from painting.  For CA, when you’re at your local discount store, pick up a container of thick and thin.  Go with a more known brand (I prefer Loc-Tite for my cheaper glues). 
 
Clamps: I recommend ye olde clothespin for clamping.  It doesn’t put too much pressure and gets the job done.  If necessary use an old rag or paper towel to protect any finish that may have been pre-applied.
 
Stirrers: Get a box of wooden coffee stirrers on Amazon to stir your paints.  Don’t shake them …. it’s a hard habit to break and usually leads to me needing to use pliers and wrenches to open a jar of paint.  They can also be used in applying putty.  Eventually, invest in a mechanical paint mixer.  It’s great on paints you haven’t used in a while.
Misc. tools:  Check out the health and beauty aids section of the local store.  Lots of things can be found that are very useful.  Totally unrelated side note: I found a cuticle tool in the nail care section that works great in scraping out vanilla beans when making crème brulee.
 
Work mat: If you need a cutting surface, get a scrap booking mat (AKA self healing craft mat).  I picked up three at a thrift store a while back.  It will protect your work surface and if you get paint on it, it’s no big deal.  Use the light colored side if you kit has dark parts, the dark colored side (usually green) for light parts.  This will prevent parts from getting “lost” on the table.  If you don’t want to get a mat right now (you may not really need it), I do recommend getting a sheet of neon colored poster board.  It’s cheap, it protects your work surface, and it’s great for keeping parts from getting lost on the work table.
 
Paint brushes: Do not use the model brushes (Testors, I’m looking at you).  Period.  Look for a pack of sable brushes (they usually run $5-$10 in the States) at a craft store.  That will give you various thicknesses and put on a much better coat than the hobby brushes. 
 
Paint stand:  Most times you’ll need something to put your model on when you paint it.  You can spend $25 on a name brand paint stand (which will be well worth the price later), but in the interim, there is a cheaper and very flexible solution.  Get a coat hanger, unravel it so you have a long wire, then bend it into a free standing  holder.  You can also bend it into a U shape and mount it an a small piece of scrap 2x4 lumber for a more stable stand (best for cars, but will do a lot more than that).  The hanger allows you to shape the stand to fit the model.
  • Member since
    August 2013
Posted by Jay Jay on Sunday, June 18, 2017 11:03 AM

Excellent advice Jammer. This is exactly how i started and am still employing some of these tips namely because I'm cheap.

 

 

 

 

 

 I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Sunday, June 18, 2017 1:45 PM

Yep those cheap thin metal shirt hangers are great to hold parts for painting things like a plane for example. I cut it to the length I need and if a twin jet engine as an example, I make a Y and run it up into the engine area and paint away. 

Also the Dollar Store and places like Walmart and Target have lots of thingies to use like padded multi grit sanding sticks, Q Tips, nail clippers, cheap hair spray (for weathering) , Flores wire (for detailing pits and engines) , and so much more.

Harbor Freight has some decent tweezer sets along with a brush cleaning set for air brushes. Speaking of Harbor Freight please stay away from the cheap Chinese air brushes. They may work for a while but you are better off with an entry level Badger or Paashe that  will not break the bank.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

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