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Tamiya glue

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  • Member since
    July 2018
  • From: The Deep Woods
Posted by Tickmagnet on Thursday, August 20, 2020 6:03 AM

I use the Tamiya Orange cap cement and the Extra thin excluxively and they work great for me with the exception they both manage to occasionally leave their fingerprints on my models. I have no idea how they do that. ConfusedBig Smile

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Thursday, August 20, 2020 4:00 AM

modelmaker66
The orange Tamiya is too thick to apply via the capilary method.

I hadn't realised that. I've used the white (thick) and the green (thin) Tamiya cements. For some reason I'd always assumed the orange was similar to the Testors "pink label" liquid cement. Having just checked the Tamiya "orange cap" (I have one, but haven't used it) it is indeed thicker than I thought.

In relation to the original problem, there's a number of possible things to consider (a) the type of plastic, as mentioned (b) the size of the contact area on the parts being glued (c) whether the parts being glued are load-bearing (d) age or possible contamination of the cement (e) surface contamination causing the cement not to stick 

  • Member since
    July 2013
  • From: Chicago area
Posted by modelmaker66 on Thursday, August 20, 2020 1:46 AM

Phil, The orange Tamiya is too thick to apply via the capilary method. You put some on the parts and the bring them together. I have never heard of it not working though. Are you sure you aren't using resin or vinyl parts? It won't work on those. It should always work with styrene though.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Thursday, August 20, 2020 12:19 AM

It's possible that you're not using the right technique in applying the cement. Like most liquid cements, Tamiya's orange (regular) and green (extra thin) capped cements are volatile solvents. Thsi means they "glue" parts together by solvent action melting the plastic slightly so that the parts adhere to each other (this is sometimes referred to as "solvent welding") If you brush the cement onto one part and press the parts together, often, the cement simply hasn't enough time to melt the plastic sufficiently and though the parts stick initially, they will quickly fall apart.

The best way to use liquid solvent type cements is to hold the parts together and apply the brush to the join between the parts. The close contact between the parts will draw the liquid cement into the joint and give the cement more "active time" between the parts to form a good bond.

Beware. Be sparing with the cement. As the cement flows along the joint easily via capillary action, it also flows along panel lines and ridges on the parts. Be aware of where your fingers are and watch out for any lines/ridges which may draw cement below your fingertips. Many a model/part has been ruined this way. 

Good luck!

  • Member since
    March 2020
  • From: South Florida
Tamiya glue
Posted by Having-fun on Wednesday, August 19, 2020 9:58 PM

 

I have been using Tamiya glue (The one with the orange cap ) and I have notice that sometimes it does not glue the parts, some of the parts that I had glue they simple come off after a few hours.The area in question is not painted, was washed with soup and water and I have put sufficient amount of glue on the object being glue. Do I am doing something wrong or do I am applying the glue incorrectly? Is there a problem, with the Tamiya glue?

Thanks

 

Joe

 

PD The model being built is the Heller Le Solei Royal.

 

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