everyone's glue of choice?

I use Loctite gel for most things, TenX-7R for large plastic seams and for getting rid of injection marks (try it, spread it on with a micro brush, rewet the brush and push down harder the second time - the pin mark disappears into the adjacent plastic! no sanding required (got that tip from stinger 1051)) testers liquid glue (with the brush) to set up indie track links and white glue for clear parts. Basicly if it sticks, I'll use it! (I have yet to try bubblegum though)

I never had good luck with Testors liquid cement. I use to use Weld On liquid but cannot find it anymore. Started using Tennex but even that is getting hard to find. Tried the Ambroid "non-toxic" liquid cement but it was crap, seems the stuff that caused the toxic fumes also bonded the plastic. I still like the old Testors tube cement and a toothpick. I also use Goldberg Jet thin, medium, and heavy CA. Oh, and Elmers white glue.

Scott

Scott:
If you are having trouble finding Tenax 7R try Great Hobbies web site. They mail order everywhere.
Regards,
Bruce

When working with styrene, I use the solvent MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) straight out of the can. The only other 'glue' I use is CA and this is with most reluctance. Only when dealing with other materials do I use super glue. I hate the stuff!
Epoxy has it's place too, but MEK is my favorite.

I prefer Testors liquid cement for most applications. I find it is less brittle than CA.

I use Testors gel cement for some larger parts where there may be larger gaps or where a little extra stenght is needed.

For resin or metal parts, parts that need some extra stiffening or for filling gaps, I use Zap-A-Gap CA.

Finally, I use Elmers white glue for canopies and some small photo-etched parts.

QUOTE: Originally posted by kevinb So I was looking today at the LHS, saw some liquid cement, but was surprised at it's consistency. It was rather thin, more like water almost. Is that normal?

Yes that is normal. The best way I have found to apply liquid cement is to put the two parts together then use a find tipped paint brush (I have one specificaly for the job) dip it in the cement and then apply it to the seems. The capilary action pulls the cement into the seem and joins the parts. It makes building large parts easy if they fit well enough. Just start at one end of wing or fuselage, apply a little, while you hold that spot together to dry move down a few cm and add some more... just keep working until the whole thing is bonded together. No worrying about getting the parts togther before the glue dires or sticking them togther in the wrong orientation. The parts are the way you want them before you even touch the glue!

Sometimes I use a little CA in spots to strengthen the seems, but only where needed. Problem with this method comes when the parts don't fit right... then it is time for some tougher stuff like the gel or CA.

Tamiya extra thin for me. Especially because of the fine brush. It makes it much more possible to not damage the surrounding plastic with cement.

Just my two cent's worth. Like life, it usually takes several different techniques to accomplish a job.

My basic glue is Pleximent (methylene chloride). Its the same thing as IPS Weld-On #3. I used to be able to buy it in qt cans (about a 3-year supply with care) but recently found out it is only sold in gallon cans now. Works great, check out the plastic supplies section of your Yellow pages.
For resins and PE I use CA (both liquid & gell) and for canopies and windows I use Micro Klear.

scottrc
If you can get over to Topeka, check with Globe plastics. They can give you the name and address of the local outlet that can supply you with Pleximent. (I can't remember the name of the local outlet off the top of my head, just remember its out on west 6th street a couple of blocks west of the hospital)

I use several types, depends on what I'm building or the parts being added. Testors in the tube, I still use it for some things. I use liquid, CA , white glue, and once in a while 5 min. epoxy.

For most plastic construction I will use Testors in the funny bottle and Testors tube. I'm thinking of trying out Tenax.
For some applications I use Zap CA.
When I want a strong bond, or for large joints I'll often use Epoxy.

DJ

Ambroid Pro-Weld. Someone described it to me as having the same active ingredient as Testors orange tube - without the thick carrier fluid. I still keep testors orange on hand when I want a slower dry time, but I love the Ambroid stuff for joining fuselage halves and whenever I want (or in some cases - need) a quick dry time. I also keep some testors clear parts clue for... clear parts !

MEK!!!

MUA HAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!

Actually, I'm a Tenax dude...


Fade to Black...

I you some testor tube glue, the liuid cement and the clear parts stuff. I also have the testors pen. I use whatever CA I happen to get. The new bottle is a different brand and I haven't tried it yet.