REVELL 1:32 HUEY UH-1D BUILD

Thanks Midnight....

As Pawel said, I don't believe in any pre-shading, panel outlining, etc.  A real helicopter just doesn't have any of those artistic finishes, so why add them?  I don't prime either, especially before joining the fuselage halves.  That only means you have to scrape or sand the paint or primer from areas where they will be glued together.  For weathering, I do it all after the color coat.  Usually I add an overall wash of a dusty color, maybe pick out some chips and dings arount heavy use areas, and some darker grey/black washes around intakes and exhausts.  That works for me.

Interior looks great!

Hi Pawel..... yep all seams sanded... about to fit together... fitting together this week then fill seams then sand and primer on seams... as for shading I'll let Gino have his two cents worth then decide... yep will be doing a wash on the exhaust.. and leading edges.... thank you for your input as every bit of advice helps...... btw only done outside as I was priming interior for a coat of Lt ghost grey to finish interior ...... onwards and  upwards...

Hello!

I say no use of putting the primer on before you've got the seams all filled and sanded smooth.

As for the pre-shading - our dear Gino here doesn't care for it any... I like to have my panel lines a little darker, to show places where dirt would accumulate, in the recesses and around the rivets (which are mostly flush, anyhow), and where the paint would start cracking first - while the centers of the panels, nice flat surfaces would be easiest to scrub and would get the most sunlight - so some fading.

Please remember that some dirt from the exhaust would probably be visible on top of the tail boom and on it's sides - it's the combination of speed and rotor downwash that put the most of it there.

I hope it helps you, good luck with your build and have a nice day

Paweł

Ok guys.... I have just laid down the primer on the fuselage.. almost ready to join the halves together..... where is it best to highlight/shading ( in flat black) joins etc... before I lay down the OD(.an image guide would be most appreciated).. not looking forward to this masking either.... lol .....

The seat situation looks better.  A litte too heavily weathered for my taste, but to each their own.

The rear-facing bench seat w/headrests has been an option on the UH-1D/H since the begining.  Below is a UH-1D from '64 with original red seat fabric with the rear-facing bench.  They were quickly removed to give more space in the cabin.  The original Revell UH-1D slick boxing from '67 included this rear seat as well.

Thanks Huey.... And again thanks HeavyArty

Is that better....

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As usual, you are right on, HeavyArty.  Just to add:

The two single seats in row one were facing rear in medivac or when the crewchief/gunner was in the gunner’s position.  This allowed for easy entry/exit for pacs when the CE was not right there to help.  Plus pilots did not like non crews to face forward over their shoulders.

The rear facing in row 1 (four seater) is an option in current Huey II.  The pictured shoulder straps and padded polls almost looks like a Bell 412.

I’ll also agree GREAT JOB!!   BEDLAM

Just before I do here is my attempt at weathering..... Lol I cheated with the cockpit forward instruments..... They are printed... Lol

Do you think I should just remove them... ??

I would either do that, or cut them down to be the single seats.

The middle seat should have the curved support bar under it as well.  There are six of them, equally spaced across it.

Yeah I thought I was clutching at straws on that one.... I used the cmk kit and it being 1:35 the rear facing bench fitted better than  the forward facing... Then the original forward facing just didn't look right as a one piece bench ( not wide enough looked wrong) so I just decided to split it... Do you think I should just remove them... ??

Looking good so far.  The seat color looks great, as do the seat belts. 

One issue though.  I have never seen two-place rear facing seats.  The most common setup was no rear-facing seat at all.

The next most common was two single seats facing either rear or out, and sometimes forward, like below.  The ones you have are way too wide.

Lastly was a full bench seat with headrests facing rear, like below.

Cabin finished..... Just need to weather it..... ( getting a bit nervous about that.... I don't want to mess up the whole thing....) Before pics.... I'll post after pics over the next few days....

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Vietnam-era IPs were grey with individual black instruments.  The all black IP is part of the blacked-out NVG-compatible cockpit that was not used until the early '80s.

Just a quick question..... What colours are used on a 67/68 era UH-1D  slick cockpit panels and instruments.... I'm confused... I have seen grey panels with black instruments ( like in the Huey Slick osprey book) and black panels with black instruments ...... Which is correct?? Thanks

I add the wash to everything; floors, walls, seats, etc.  Go a little lighter on the fabric parts and heavier on the floors.  On a Vietnam Huey, the insides of the cockpit and cabin (fuselage) walls should be the same grey that you used on the floor. 

The black cockpits and cabins were a later feature not seen until the early '80 to make them compatible for NVGs (Night Vision Goggles).  The grey was too light and would interfere with the goggles by reflecting too much light, effectively washing them out.

Thanks HeavyArty.... I appreciate that..... Would that be a very dilute wash then wipe off access.... Then dry brush the gun metal and aluminium... I gather that's for the floor and walls.. Any suggestions for the seats.... Oh also what colour for the interior walls of the body ( main fuselage) grey, black..( just so I know before gluing the two halves together). I've seen both but I'm not sure on this...

Looking good.  The cabling came out really nice.  I usually weather the interior w/the seats in, but before closing it in the fuselage.  I give it an overall wash of a light/medium brown color for some dust and dirt.  I also use some gunmetal on high traffic areas of the floor to show where the paint has been rubbed down from boots and dirt.  Lastly, a sparing amount of aluminum or silver for really worn areas.

Wiring done yesterday... Model car garage HT wires I had lying around..... I hope it looks ok.

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Ok cabins painted.....(Not bad for my first attempt at airbrush I think). Crew seats painted( still need belts ... Scratch build) ...pilot/co needs finishing... Blast shield needs to be proper colour and seat belts need to go on ( scratch building those).. Details on instruments will be done this week( got some oil based sharpie fine tip pens coming in mail tomorrow... Red ,white, black, blue, gold, silver)

Is it better to weather the interior before the crew seats go in.... And does anyone have tips on weathering ( new to this) ... I don't want to over do it... But interior looks too clean at the moment....

As usual any critiques and advise will be helpful....

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Ok latest images..... Cabin divider detailed... Cabin roof has had equipment pods deepened so I can do switches etc. Yeah I know not needed but I'm mad like that... Hopefully I'm going to lay down some primer and base colour over the weekend ( light ghost grey or Light grey is it?) Then get some more detailing done... Cargo seats, fine details etc...

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Thanks Glenn.... Thanks Heavy... All you guys rock.... It's great to have reference.. Especially as I was just being born at the time of this war... And I'm a limey too.... Found some good Huey walk around on the net.... The best 2 I found were from Australia... Nice pics of all the main detail.... But it's the little things you can't see that matters... I can't keep asking the father in law as this build is a surprise for him and I think he's getting wise as I have just started model building again recently.... And with my 5 yr old daughter who can't keep her mouth shut I have to do this late in the evening...lol

GlennH

I can offer up a small detail on the door guns...

It was a common practice to add a C-Rations can (or beer can apparently) to the feed side of an M60 MG when using belted ammo.  The belt had a tendency to kink and jam the gun if it fell to a 90 degree angle due to the links.  The can prevented the belt from falling and kinking. 

This was not needed when using the feed chute though as part of the M23 door gun system.

Love what you did with the lights. I can offer up a small detail on the door guns if this works. Gonna enjoy following your build.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/southwestdreams/4903852805/in/album-72157621855914355/