Kitty Hawk 1:35 SH-60b Seahawk: Start to Finish Build

The main rotor is pretty much done. I did more detail painting, painted the white patches on the distributor, added some bright brass at the pipe ends, added some panel accent block in some strategic locations, and painted a single pipe to the snubbers a blue that matches what I've seen in the pictures. The ResKit was challenging and at times, so daunting that I wondered if it was worth it. That said, the results are definitely worth it. If you can stand breaking more than a dozen tiny carbide drills and lots of CA gluing frustration, I would recommend it.

Here's a side view.

There's one more line that goes on after the blades are installed; the nitrogen leak sensor line that goes to the spot of the arm where the other half of this line was previously installed.

Just for comparison, here's the real deal showing that blue line going to the snubbers.

I could still add some more metallic accents to the tubing clamps. I'll see what my mood it...

The intake fairings didn't fit well over the ResKit's angle drives. They are bigger than the kit's I think. Some selective shaving took care of it, but if you'll notice on the above picture, the fairings DON'T full close the drive housing openings. The instructions DO NOT clearly show this and I was attempting to get them to fit. 

Here's the rubber-band clamps getting it all together, but now I have to go to the shop to see if I glued the forward part in error. Nope... not an error. Here's the fit. Again, instructions do not tell you how this should fit. That acts as a splinter to not injest boundary air, also gets some cooling to the trans and final drives.

It certainly does. Today the intake trunks were installed along with another piece of skin. I then did the detail painting on the rotor, but there's still more to do there.

The trunks had a very narrow gluing edge. I spent time finishing the outside edges, but you don't see that. What you do see is the inside seam looking up the trunk. That doesn't matter either since the spliter and intake protector block off any view lines. I needed to give a little clamping assistance to make sure that all the seams were down tight.

The angle drives needed to be detatched from the torque tubes to fit them into the airframe. In all these images, neither the trans or the final drives are actually glued in place. The unit is upside down in these two images.

While this was setting up, I went about painting all the details on the rotor hub. I used Bare Metal Foil brushed aluminum for the main shaft. I picked out some of the mechanicals with my dark galvanized mix (steel) and flat aluminum. I then used NATO black to paint connectors and piping. I used Molotow chrome on the snubber rods.

Lost another one of those %&$#()%$@ brass straps. I don't have more. Will have to make one out of PE fret. Bummer!

The rotor is gloss coated so I can use some Tamiya Panel Accents. They don't work well with a flat finish. I also need to pick out pipe fittings with gold (Brass) and further age the unit just a trifle with some pastels. Some of the hoses are not black and I will make those additions as I go on.

Here's a status shot, again, not finally assembled. I also treated the engine compartment walls with some brown panel accent, and a mixture of black and rust pastels to simulate the heat damage to the walls as seen on some of the pictures.

Looking good.  The paint really makes it pop.

Trans is finished and I painted both it and the T700. Still have to paint the rotor head (tomorrow). Armed with my engine pictures I painted the different engine sections various shades of metal, plus some transparent green metallic shade for the grit separator scroll. I then picked out the various piping/wiring/sensors and appliances in flat aluminun, flat black and Molotow Chrome (decanted and using brush).

The darker shade is flat aluminum mixed with flat black. The lighter shade for the accessory case is flat white and flat aluminum. The compressor section was the initial silver leaf spray brush coated with Tamiya flat clear.

Lastly, I also sprayed the trans with the silver leaf and then went over most of it with the darker black/aluminum mix. I left some parts shiny and painted the oil filler cap yellow.

Just for reference. here's the engine pic that I used for color choice.

Clean is good. And thanks for the accolades. You do have to be slightly nuts to go into the dark pit of extra detailing. I've just been doing it over the last few years (and I'm 76). You have to be good at problem solving since stuff keeps happening.

The transmission and final drives are built and ready for paint. I kept breaking off the little actuator ball ends and ended up pinning various parts in place so I wasn't just relying on CA.

The lever bracket had a square opening that you needed to open. I missed it at first and was having a heck of time getting the lever set to fit in. I then saw the little "Cut" writing on the rectangle, removed it and the lever went in without difficulty.

Lots of other stuff went on this final drive including an oil filler which is also pinned. 

The angle drives that come from each engine have a right and a left. I didn't pay attention to this! I didn't read the instructions carefully enough to realize they had two different part numbers. So of course I put them on backwards (Darn Murphy!!). I was able to pop them off and put them on correctly. 

I took these pictures with the trans and engines in relatively correct positions. I think they're upside down. The tail rotor take off is there too.

Painting will commence again tomorrow.

Builder 2010

Notice how clean it is.

Great strides have been made in keeping helos flying.  So, instead of needing around 10 hours of mainteance per hour of flight, it's down to around 6 or 7.

Which is plenty of time to keep things clean.  And, there is the benefit that any leaks are easier to detect on a clean surface.

The brownshoes are pretty thorough about these things.  On small craft (like DDG) they have hanger space to work on the birds out of the weather. 

Dude you are a frickin' wildman with this stuff!!! Love all the details!!! WOW....just WOW!!! 

I Can't believe that this is the 3rd time I've written this post. I keep doing something that changes the Safari tabs and I lose the entire thing. I'm going to copy the darn thing so I can retrieve it when I screw up.

I got the rotor piping done today. I did the rest of the arms in the same time as it took to do one yesterday. If I had to build another I'd even be faster. Up the learning curve I go...

I did some more research on the prototype learning about the Biflar Vibration Dampening System on the top of the rotor mask. It uses free floating tungsten weights that oscilate opposing the natural vibration generated by the rotors. The system is dynamically balanced, but the rotors still generate a lot of vibration. With the system vibration is reduced 55% in the cabin making for a quieter and smoother ride.

The engines are fully computer controlled by Digital Engine Control Unit (DECU). This takes all the fuel and engine settings away from the pilot. All they do is put the throttle control on idle, hit start, when it spools up, move it to fly and that's it. Everything else is controlled by the DECU based on the flight inputs and how much power is needed.

The tubular duct running across the top of the engine is the output from the Grit Removal System. A centrifugal impeller drivers particulates out of the air stream and then a separate blower pushes the dirty air out to the exhaust trunk (a la the Dyson vacuum).

I found more good images for detailing and coloration. Notice how clean it is. The Biflar weights are very obvious in this image.

And this is even cleaner. I think this is a new aircraft. Most is body color, but there's enough bare metal to add interest.

The rotor system even has a power fold actuator (another hydraulic line).

I broke another blade lock sensor and had to scratch-build the complete part this time. No big deal. I was pressing too hard when trying to scrape a bit of excess CA off some small detail. It's a complicated thing, ain't it?

I primed it with Tamiya white primer.

I will be adding more details using bare metal foil during the finish painting time.

While this was drying I started working on the transmission and angle drives. The hydaulic pumps come off the angle drives, not the engines. There were four sub-assemblies requiring tiny resin parts and Gel CA. Not fun! Too small of gluing area and critical angles.

These parts going onto a bracket that attaches to the trans body. This stuff may not be visible unless I open some more panels. 

The Seahawk also has an APU that's nestled between the exhaust trunks that provides starting air and power when main engines are off. The kit does not have this, nor are there any AM parts. I suppose I could draw it and 3D print it, but then I'd have open another panel. I don't think I'm doing this.

I decided to find out what these parts really were and found the Pilot's manual for the SH-60B Seahawk. A good, complicated read that I should have review BEFORE doing all the engine piping. There are good images of engine details and components. Here's the main rotor. The cylinders on the sides of the arms are shock absorbers. And the plate on top with the weights hanging on the ends (which are separate snap on pieces on the rotor kit) are tungsten weights that act as a vibration damping system.

Piping work on main rotor hub continues. Spent about 1.5 hours today, with over one of those hours spent fixing the fittings on the hydraulic distributor. I used up all the resin ones I had including the double set that was included. The last two that I cut off the sprue were damaged since I cut too close to the part and actually removed some of it. I ended fup enlarging the connector end with some accelerated CA and made them work. Hopefully, when painted, they'll be okay. Getting the piping threaded under the piece and through the hole wasn't the big challenge. The challenge was geting the fitting into the holes and holding them there. I also replaced some of the straight connectors.

The next pipes ot go on were the large group that feeds the blade locks, and others that connect to the various components. One pipe comes out of the holes in the ring below the distributor. They were a large hole which I drilled deeper with the tiny drill.

This line curves under the blade angle cylinder — I suppose that's what it is since nothing actually tells you what all this complexity does.

There are four lines that go to the distribution fitting on the top of the claw (that's what I'm calling it... it's probably called the blade hinge. Three go to the claw: one into the back of each lock cylinder, one f the claw, and the last into the back of the clevis. That hole I didn't pre-drill and had to add it now. It was delicate to say the least!

All of those lines will have to painted black once the hub is painted. Next session I'll get as much done as I can.

Gino, that's why all this crap is sold as aftermarket. It's personal choice at work.

I put the first color coat on the engine. Tamiya Dark Iron. It's a little dark so I might dust it with some orangy shade.

Then I got down to business and finished the mechanical assembly of the rotor head proper (not the gear box which is another model in itself) and started piping.

The swash plate and locking lugs that connect it to the rotor shaft was reasonably sane except for breaking the ball end of one of the connecting rods. Again, I drilled it and used Guitar strings. Getting a bit tired of this. The first three rods when in in 10 minutes. That last one took probably a half hour. The lugs that connect the swash ring to the main shaft via that two-ended forging needed some filing to open up the slot so it would slip over the parts without forcing (which tends to break things).

Got the first pipe in and you'll notice in this image that I got all four PE rotor lock indicator bars in place.

Piping is going okay so far except for a slight distraction.

There were holes in the top rotor piece that i neglected to open. One of the pipes goes up through these holes and attaches to the underside of the angled fitting. I decided to re-pipe correctly and starting doing this late this afternnon and just got started on it.

And you'll now notice that some of the bars already popped off. I hate gluing PE with CA! I'll put some more in once all the handling is actually done.

Wow, great work.  I think I will stick with the kit rotor head though.  To me, it looks like way too much work for a marginal increase in detail level.  The kit rotor head is actually pretty nice, especially after plumbing it.

Hope everyone survived Thanksgiving day! Our son and family were in from State College, PA so it was the first time the cousins saw one another in over 2 years. When kids are in their teens, two years is a whole lotta change, you know. It took a day for them to get comfortable with each other, but they all warmed up.

First thing I did today was to throw a coat of rattle can Tamiya Silver leaf on the T700 for the first metallic coat. I let it dry completely. It already looks better. I masked the firewall so I would have to repaint the Ocean Gray.

The rest of a reasonably long work session was wrestling with the main rotor resin kit. Let me tell you, this is a real beast. I was spending as much time cobbling together repairs as I was building the assembly. There is a link with a universal joint on one end that seems to be part of the collective pitch mechanism. It's a two-part affair, with the cylindrical main part and another that will have a hydraulic line in it. 

The cylinder casting was a total bear! There was an air bubble flaw in the narrow portion connecting it to the eye clevis on one end. This bubble caused a failure of every one. They gave six of these and I used all six. I ended up drilling and using guitar string to attach the parts back together.

To complicate things more, the eye angles were not in line with the cylinder main axis. I ended up first gluing them in the wrong angle since there was really no way to tell. To get the assembly right I broke the joints so I could rotate the eyes around the piano wire and get them together. It was a half-moon hole in the hub to accomodate the same shaped pin, but of course the pin was slightly oversized and needed careful filling so it would assemble without excess pressure that could break more piston rod joints. Ask me how I know this. After each was in the best position I used med CA with accelerator to fix them.

Through all this manhandling the little PE straps came off and some of the pins to which they attach broke also. I replaced one with 1/32" phos-bronze and will do the same with the other broken ones. I have extra PE parts and will replace them AFTER all the pieces are together. The resin is quite brittle. My 3D printed parts are tougher.

Meanwhile, I wised up and drilled as many of the 0.012" holes as I could before getting these parts attached.

Then more troubles cames. The main shaft was still too tight a fit into the hub for my comfort. I didn't want to have to press too hard to get these together for fear of breaking more stuff in doing so. To rectify this I attempted to chuck the shaft into my DeWalt and spin it so I could sand it round. That worked until it didn't! A little too much side pressure and the smallest part of the shaft fractured. That part disappear into the ether. I found that the diamter was really close to 3/32" so I replaced it with a piece of tubing of that size. This worked pretty well and I dodged another bullet.

There is a hydraulic distribution component that sits atop the main shaft and this part has 8 fitting that needed to be installed AND drilled 0.012" The kit had two extras of each type (straight and elbow). I drilled them BEFORE separating them from the mold sprue. That part worked. What was less successful was getting them attached to their respective holes in the distributor. The holes were slight undersized and in pushing them in I broke a couple and lost more. 

I opened these holes to a #58 drill to give more room. I still lost one elbow — and that was with my parts capture apron in place — so I started to scratch-build a little soldered affair that needs one of those small holes for a hydraulic line. It's a small piece of Albion tubing and a 1/32 piece of phos-bronze soldered together. I was in the midst of drilling the hole when it was time for dinner.

Just for scale, that large wooden log is a toothpick! That drill is really freaking small! The 0.012" is holding up much better than the 0.010" ones I was using (and breaking) before.

Short session so I didn't paint, but continued with the main rotor. I started to drill the tiny holes for the many hydraulic lines. There's a mock fitting on top of the rotor hub arms that's supposed to have 2 lines going through it. I attempted to drill it, but the resin started breaking out. So I filed them off and will make holes clamps with wine bottle foil. 

I drill the five holes in the hydraulic manifold fitting on top of the outer arms. That was fun! Not! That's my thumb for scale. I'm going to lay in these lines now when I have easy access to the holes. I will cut them to length upon final install. I may drill and pin some of the actuating levers too for a more permanent construction.

The rotating portion of the rotor hubs went on next and I found that I glued that little shoe thingy (technical term) in the wrong place facing in the wrong directly. I now know why they gave you 8 of these things when you only need four. They get lost really easily. They can also foul the fit of the rotating portion from seating properly in the hub arm. I had to removed two of them (broke one in the process), glue in the arm and then put the shoe back on.

There are rights and lefts of this rotating part and you need to pay close attention to their placement when doing the rotor-fold version, which I am. To further complicate things, the two in "front" get canted up 10° from level. I set up the level on my iPhone at 10 degrees to use as an approximate guide. 

The last thing that went on in this step was a tiny piece of PE. In the real bird, this bar indicates clearly when the lock pins are engaged (in) or disengaged (out), so it can be seen from the ground easily. Since I'm building it with the blades folded, the pins would be in the outward position as the part was molded. You're instructed to cut them off if you're building with the blades in the operating position.

I found the easiest way to put these on was to lay them face down on the little piece of plexiglass I use when cutting PE, put a small amount of gel CA on the pin ends, and then bring the pins down to the PE until it grabs. Trying to hold the PE in aligment with tweezers was an exercise in futility.

I'm going to pre-drill any hydraulic line holes before assembly whenever I can. 

Darn it Midnight! You caught me! Thought I could get away with it. I'll try and do better.

That looks like quite the complex rotor head!

The checked out the RedOak site and found four that would be great. That said, the $100 isn't so great so I'm going to hold off until the model is further down the road and see if it will justify the additional investment.

I am very envious of the people who create such beautiful figures. I have little or no talent for it. I had to sculpt my own bomber crew for a 1:16 B-17 RC model I built 10 years ago for a commisision. My figures came out like Nick Park's "Wallace and Gromitt", as evidenced by this picture. The co-pilot looks like he's facing iminent death. 

And that was after reading about how to do it. I've learned some more since doing this. I was using Sculpey and was trying to form the entire figure before curing in the Toaster Oven. I've since learned that you can work it in layers, getting the basic shapes down, firing it, adding more details, firing and so on. This way you don't keep disturbing the things you're getting right by working on the outer layers. That said, I'm still no sculptor. So if I want a crew, I'am going to have to buy it or find STL files somewhere and print my own.

The model did fly as can be seen in this video. I hadn't built and RC plane in 25 years before doing this one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxKgPPQQl-4

I primed the bulkheads with Mission Paints Dark Ghost Gray which is called out for the exterior color for the verison I'm doing. I then set this out to dry and continued working on the main rotor hub. 

The next bit required a three-part assembly with lots of cleanup. This time I was able to use my razor saw or #11 blade to remove the sprue. You have to remove a web that's in the middle of a curved surface. This shell mates to the other part. You had to be very careful in removing the exess around the shaft portion of the mating part. There were extended flats that are required to correctly position the seond part's angular location. It would be bad to accidentally cut them off when doing the clean up since the geometry is very complex and it would make building the hub much more difficult.

It took almost an hour and a half to assemble the four rotor attachment parts. There's one more piece that goes into this that is the actual rotor blade hinge point. This part is not used on the Army Blackhawk version without the folding blade requirement. To properly remove the flash you DO need to be a bit of a sculptor.

The assembly in the lower left, if you look closely, you can see a white line on on the ear that's projecting out. That ear broke when I was holding too tightly during the filing operation. I CA'd it back on. It's not secure. I'm going to add a laminate of some PE fret brass to make sure it doesn't break again. The resin is hard AND brittle.

C'mon. posting pics of a real engine and passing it off as a model just isn't right!

Looks Builder. I have the Academy 1/32 MH-60 and am looking forward to it.

Thanks Gino!

I had to replace another resin pipe that broke and will need to replace one more. They're really fragile! This one was a challenge since it winds its way around the oil filler cap and then through an opening in the cool end bulkhead.

Started getting the engine bay together. Found some images showing their internal color. As best as I can tell it's basically the same gray as the exterior with a lot of dirt. I mounted the kit engine on its front and back supports. I also fit the ResKit engine and found that one of the resin pipes and one of my mods interfered with the inner wall. You can just make it out in this image.

I relieved the wall in these spots and got a good fit.

I didn't glue the ResKit side in now. Instead I primed it and will do the engine painting before encloising it. I will be spraying the entire kit side with the interior color. It will be closed up so the engines only there to hold the bulkheads in place.

While waiting for the primer to dry I started the next super-challenge in this build: the ResKit Main Rotor kit. Here's what it looked like in the box. If you look closely you can see the rotor hubs parts attached to their sprue block. They're the cylindrical pieces.

These pieces were VERY DIFFICULT to remove from the sprue. The attached face has the 1/4 cylinder of the central shaft hole. Not only is it a finished round surface, it's also canted from the perpendicular since the entire rotor head arms have an upward pitch. Then to make matters worse, the four quadrants go together with pin and hole arrangement, but the pin was right in the cutting path you follow to remove the sprue block. I used the needle burr and removed most of the material and then a round burr to re-shape the openning. And I removed half of the pins in the process.

I decided that all the resin pins had to go and replaced them with 1/32" phos-bronze.

I got the four parts together as I figured they should go using gel and thin CA. I then went through the hole with a series of drills spun by hand to open it up and round it. It's still a tad tight on the shaft so one more drill size to get the slip fit I want. Press fits can break the joints. Any slight misalignment will be hidden by the blades in the folded position.

I'd love to make a diorama with service being done to this bird and would like to find some 1/35 green shirt characters to fill it out. Any suggestions?

Also found an image showing an engine that's been in service. Good color study.

Looks great.

Glad you're enjoying it. It's been mostly fun for me too.

Today, albeit in a short session, I actually did complete the T700 build with the addition of engine mounts, the bleed air duct (I'm assuming that's what it is), and some more resin piping. This piping was more robust so I was able to work with it. One I fastened with a piece of guitar string.

My new drills arrived. I ordered 0.012" instead of 0.010" and a slightly shorter length. This makes the drill just a little more robust and a slightly larger hole to make it easier to slip the skinny wire in. The 0.010" was just too tight a fit and the wire would often bend over when trying to insert.

I removed the flange around the exhaust duct with the Dremel.

I then tried it out and was rewarded with a nice tight fit.

I was only able to get one resin engine mount assembly to work and used one of the kit mounts to substitute. I put all the other remaining items on the engine and CA'd it to the bulkhead. I hope I won't regret that step when I get to painting it. I like that it's now captivated and is much more secure to hold onto it. Also, I'll be able to paint over all the excess CA that seems to be floating around.

Tomorrow, I'll build the kit left-hand engine and get ready to paint them. While I'm aware of all the not-so-hot things in this engine build, when you look at it from normal observing distance, it looks pretty cool.

This whole build is very entertaining and inspirational. 

Keep up the wonderful work.

Ben

Short session today. I am now declaring that the piping of this baby is done. Some of the piping isn't... it's wiring. In fact, that thing I struggled with the last piece yesterday is actually a wiring harness that's just wrapped with yellow tape in the prototype. I actually thought about ways to recreate this effect then dropped the entire idea when I reminded myself that this is on the back side of the engine and won't be seen by anyone excpet, me, the creator.

Creating that wrapped harness in 1:35 would be an interesting challenge, but I'm not going there because of my above rationalization. There's lots of different colors in this little model.

Here's my final rendition before I finish the last little bits (engine mounts).

I tried the model out in the plastic kit part that captures the engine on both ends. On the exhaust end it's okay, but on the intake end I have to remove the nice flange that surrounds the intake bell as pointed out by the arrow.

Happy Monday!

My wife and I have a deal that I don't work in the shop on weekends, so for me, Monday is actually a pretty happy day.

I literally spent hours doing a very few things. This is bordering on watchmaking or creating Fabergé eggs. I found that that my magnet wire is a few thou smaller in diameter than the brass wire so I replaced Friday's harness. It's a bit better. It's still a little larger gauge (2.4mm vs. 2mm) than specified in the instructions.

Next up. There was a ridiculously fragile resin ring that is the fuel manifold (I presume). It broke two times and I gave up on it. Some things are best not cast in resin. There's also a bunch of piping that is going to be replaced one-by-one as I get to them. If you can get them off the casting block you're still left with the challenge of re-shaping them so they're round.

I made a new ring out of 0.022" phos-bronze. It wasn't fully rounded yet in this image.

I placed the engine in my PanaVise to stabilize it while I glued the new ring in place touching each of the fuel injector sites.

The accessory drive was comprised of three castings. They're fragile and exemplified by my breaking one in half. There are some alignment pins on some of the parts. Unfortunately they don't fit their corresponding holes. I ended up sanding them off. 

Gonna be a lot of fun painting all these details.

There was another very small/fragile cast pipe array that held a pump in place. The pump DOES NOT actually glue to the gear box, but instead, is completely held in space by two pipes; this elaborate longer one, and a very tiny insignicant small one. My first attempt was to use the resin long pipe. Notice I used some Phos-bronze wire to replace the almost-non-existent resin locating pin. The other pipe was a tiny resin elbow that I also replaced with metal.

The longer pipe broke so I replace it too. I left the 90° part which had the fitting.

There were some electrical boxes that went on next. Working on styrene kits is much more predictable since many of these pieces went into approximate locations. Here's the diamond burr I use to remove resin parts from their sprue blocks. It gives great control, much better than using a blade or razor saw.

But wait! There's more! There was this wiring harness as laid out in the instructions.

In a previous step they had you glue together the two resin branches. Yeah! Like that was gonna happen? They're actually telling you that brass wire should connect some how to the various points of this resin assembly. 

Here's how those parta looked on the sprue block.

I didn't even attempt to use them. Instead I first tried to use some 28 gauge wire sheathing with the correct number of pipes as shown, but this wasted 1/2 hour of my time and produced basically nada. I then decided to go a little over-scale and use shrink tubing. This is on the aircraft side of the engine and probably won't be visible with the open cover on the model. It was much easier to use the shrink tubing. I didn't get all the terminations done by quitting time. I suppose I could use some small brass tubing to do this. I will think about it... This is a bit clunky! The beauty of scratch-building is I can do it over and over until I get it right.

Glad you like it, but there were things I didn't like (and still some more). First of all, here's a shot of the instructions showing some of the challenges. 

With the gauge wire I'm using there was no way to stuff three or four pipes into the tiny resin aspects that they're telling you to do. After my futile attempts to grind them and smash the wiring into them with Bondic resin, I decided to eliminate them and redo them, albeit larger.

The cylinder on the left was a molded part, and the bracket on the right was actually an added part. There were no holes or slots in either and putting them in was nearly impossible.

To facilitate threading the piping through the new blocks I used some Albion micro-brass tubing. Here's the tubing slide onto the brass wire. BTW: the source of the brass wire was a woven nest around the bottle of some Italian or Spanish wine. Wine bottles are a great source of modeling supplies including the foils that wrap their tops. And they have the added benefit of providing pleasure. It's a win-win! 

This image also shows the three holes drilled to accept the tubing. I made a silly mistake. I thought I was drilling them with the correct 0.020" carbide drill, but had a 0.032" drill, so the holes were oversize. Later I realized my mistake and used the correct size. In the foreground is a reject block where the holes joined together.

Here's the information on the Albion Tubing. Chuck Wallace uses this in his super-detailing work and I really like it. I cut it with a new single-edged razor with the tubing thread over a piece of High-E guitar string. This captivates the little buggers which are prone to go into the ether with the slightest provocation. Use a hard wire to hold the cut pieces. If you use brass, the wire will cut along with the tubing and create a problem you  don't need. You don't have to press too hard. Look at the reflection of the tubing in the razor as you roll it back and forth. Keep the reflection pointing straight back as if it were the same piece to ensure your cutting squarely and not cutting a spiral.

I believe for this application I'm using the .6mm tubing.

For the rear teminus, I drilled a piece of 3/64 Evergreen styrene. Four pipes go into this. I don't know how ResKit expects the builder to terminate the wire without holes to go into. I am sensitive that these blocks are about 2X oversize, but I really couldn't deal with them any smaller.

I really didn't like how the piano wire was laying. The loops were too large AND I couldn't bend them much tighter. That stuff is really tough. 

The fact that they're already nice and shiny didn't matter since the entire engine's going to be painted including the piping.

So I pulled them all out and substitiuted them with the brass of the same gauge.

And the reverse view. You see another small block that substituted for a tiny bump through which that pipe was supposed to pass. Really?!

More crazy PE had to go on. I lost a few of these. What made it worse, when removed from the fret, they were to wide at the base so I have to clip their corners with a #11 blade, and that was particularly not fun!

Some of this detail is nonesense at this scale. I would like it better if it were 1/32 or even better at 1/24. It is astonishing to me that a turbine can produce 1,900 hp and weigh less than 500 pounds. They're really quite small.

Another set of pipes goes around the perimeter from points in the circumference and then through that bracket. I removed the kit part and substituted another drilled block supported on a piece of Phos-bronze wire. The kit calls out .2mm wire for this run and I'm using the equivalent of .3mm. I think I have some magnet wire that has a smaller diameter and could replace this too. The piping is not too hard to rip out and fix.

Getting that brass to lay nicely is like herding cats!

That's brings us up to date. See y'all on Monday!

Nice job on the engine so far.

Today began the building of the ResKit T700 turbomachinery. As much as I was looking forward to this, the build is going to be very challenging for me. They want you to put in all this piping, but you have drill all the holes yourself. That's that dastardly 0.010" carbide drill. I broke three and still have a lot more holes to drill. They're $1.75 each so those are some expensive holes, but there's really no other way to create .3mm holes in resin without drilling them, or so it seems to me. I was happy that I was able to remove the sprue block without difficulty starting with the Dremel Flexi-shaft and a pointy diamond coated burr. It beat trying to finagle using some saw or another to do it. 

I started using some 0.010" brass wire, and you'll see how it worked. I then started using piano wire (High-E guitar string). It's really tough material and if you bend it wrongly, you're screwed, but it holds it shape very well. You cannot cut this with normal sprue cutters. The steel is harder than the jaws and will leave nice half-moon grooves in the cutters. You must use hard wire cutters.

I drilled a test hole and tried out the brass wire. If fit nicely.

I started laying in piping based on the instructions. The instructiions show four pipes going to a small block on the left side. There was no way to drill that at all, let alone put four small holes or one large one. Insteaad, I milled a slot down the middle using the burr. Even with that, getting three lines terminated there was sub-optimal. I ended up building the block up with some Bondic. I reshape that when all the lines are there.

When I could drill holes for the piping I did. There was a very fine pair of PE pieces function of which I have no idea, that went into a tiny groove around the circumferance. It's a very thin PE and I continually kept bending these little protrusion over. I found one that already broke off. If all broke off I don't think anyone will miss it.

And here's where I left it tonight. As you can see I started using the piano wire on some of the piping. I think the curves are too high, and it's not exactly the way it supposed to look. There's a lot more piping that needs to go on. These engines are advanced models all to themselves. The arrow points to the Bondic expanded block.

Tomorrow work will continue.

I changed the seat belt color to comply with the images Gino posted. 

While doing this I must have put some pressure on the right rudder pedal on the co-pilot's side and broke the tiny plastic pin holding it to the base. I drilled the pedal and base with the 0.010" drill for some High-E Guitar String. Here's what that ridiculously small drill looks like. They're so brittle and fragile that it's quite easy to break them taking them out of their little holder box, or if you exert any side pressure at all.

I re-installed the pedal with the wire, but it's a little long. I'm leaving it as it is.

It was time to finish the interior starting with the cockpit end bulkhead and some other appurtenances along with the overhead control panel. It seems like the trottle controls are overhead.

I then went an painted all the controls. There's a decal for this, but there's so much raised detail that I felt hand painting was okay.

There were two more seats that needed construction. As I noted before, I'm not happy with the engineering of these seats. They're attempting to make scale-sized members, but that gives no gluing surface and some of the cross-sections can't sustain themselves.  

A perfect example is the ceiling supports that literally hold this seat into the aircraft cabin. The plastic narrows down to probably less than 0.020" and I broke two before I got one built and even then it broke when I glued it into the ceiling. 

To hold it steady I sat a steel angle block on it. 

As it is I now see that it shifted on the wall mount when I used med CA to hold it in place. Notice the pressurized gas cylinder that I piped into the Sonabuoy launcher.

But as you'lll see, the extrerioir wall completely hides this seat so no harm no foul.

That's not glued in yet. I did do some trim painting on the other side, which also is impossible to view. You can just see it looking in the window on the opposite side of the cabin. Haven't seen images of this wall and really don't know what the coloration, but it isn't visible.