SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

~ ! Clash in Tunisia ! ~ { Final Photos on page 37 }

169537 views
586 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Saturday, March 13, 2010 12:23 PM

Here's the finish I wanted, applied to the side panels of my base. It's Rustoleum's Textured "Aged Iron" #223525  I'm looking for the colour to provide great contrast, and the texture some consistency  and matches another base of a similar size I've already built.
 


I've found that this paint goes alot farther if you use a black base under it, and you don't build-up the texture too heavily trying to get coverage that way. Any black rattlecan at hand will work for this, and you'll notice I've used a temporary mask this time over the groundwork--not so much that I'm worried about having to later paint over the black---but I don't want to impart the larger grain texture to the sand areas of the ground.
 


I love the look of this paint and it hides a multitude of sins too,  if your frame is not cleanly built. This one was in good shape but you can still see a hint of woodgrain, as I stopped short of a heavy application--go thicker if you like and details like the sharp corners will soften.
 

 


I removed the mask right after and you can see roughly the kind of contrast even before painting.   I like how this has conformed to how we are used to seeing the extents of the Diorama edges portayed (usually but not always--with black)  but still it's a little different.
 
 

~~Base finally ready for paint !!    I'm pretty happy about that Big Smile But 1st--before I get some rack-time---I'll need to update this blog---and here I am-
.as always...thanks for allowing me to bring you this build in detail--see you soon!
 

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Everett, WA
Posted by Schnobs on Saturday, March 13, 2010 9:56 PM

 Bravo! Well played SIr!  Well played!!

 

I really like the contrast in the sand effects and the paint for the side of the dio base is an excellent choce as well!

Looks great Adam!

 

 







"There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which cannot fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance. That principle is contempt prior to investigation." Herbert Spencer
  • Member since
    January 2012
Posted by I make stuff on Sunday, March 14, 2010 10:21 AM

....Hello?

SPRING FORWARD, ADAM!!!

Wake up sleepy head, I need to see more.  That textured edge is two thing--very well thought out contrast (and compliment) to the sand...and STOLEN.

I WILL use this technique, uh, if I ever do a base, that is.

Keep it coming, I can see the finish line from here.  THe vision clarifies even more, and I really like what I see.  This NEEDS to be brought to Orangecon in October, even if you put it on the display only table, and decide you don't want a medal. 

BIll

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: 41 Degrees 52.4 minutes North; 72 Degrees 7.3 minutes West
Posted by bbrowniii on Sunday, March 14, 2010 2:33 PM

Bow Down - words do not suffice...

'All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing' - Edmund Burke (1770 ??)

 

  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: Boston MA
Posted by vespa boy on Sunday, March 14, 2010 4:31 PM

You've got some really nicely observed geological formations. Beatutiful groundwork Indy. I'm a big fan of the unframed "cut out of the ground" edges and you've done a very neat job on your. Well done. I'm looking forward to seeing what paint adds to this.

http://public.fotki.com/nkhandekar

This ain't no Mudd Club, or C.B.G.B.,
I ain't got time for that now

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Monday, March 15, 2010 3:04 AM

~Edmund~ Thanks you sly dog  Stick out tongue Nice going this weekend!

~Bill~  Thank you Buddy---take away everything you can! Any questions about any little part of it? Ask away(my very initials are A.S.K.   BTW !) I supose I go on long enough in my posts to cover most of it, huh? As for attending a show----I will someday  Cool

~Boyyd~  That's plenty--I'm honored by your remark.

~Narayan~  You clearly see what it is I'm getting at. That's very satifying for me. I do like some Dio's done with the "cut-out' approach and others well framed---honestly I went back and forth on this to decide if I wanted a sort of framed-cut-out! I had the 3/16" wide top of the wood surface looking perfectly clean, and even though it goes against my grain a bit to  leave off an opportunity to 'frame'(having spent 12 years doing Custom Picture Framing) I finaly decided to model right to the edge, as the break wouldn't be any kind of real plus, I could use the room around the edge, and it's easier to photo the work later that way.

Base Painting--Preshade

 

I began the painting with a pretty standard pre-shade by way of  Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black thinned 30% with some 70% alcohol. The  pre-shade is largly obfuscated by the opaque paints we modelers tend to prefer...but  I  really needed to get some black  up into the undercuts and holes --before painting surrounding areas in the sand tones.
 

~I followed the black  with  a second, more complete pre-shade using Tamiya XF-52 Flat Earth (increadibly usefull color despite it's out-of-touch sounding name Sad) It's really handy using pre-mixed, potted colors, when possible, for these large projects, as  these colors shouldn't really be too mysterious  or difficult to reproduce.
 
 
 
 
 
 


The brown color is sprayed freehand into pretty much every significant recess, and the  landscapes features start to take shape.
 

~ Continued.....

 

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Monday, March 15, 2010 3:09 AM

Painted Desert

 

Before spraying the sand color, I really needed to mask-off the highly irregular line at it's edge. Next Masking Tip  -- PARAFILM "M"  To my knowledge only available from Micromark
Is an unusual mask that will conform to odd shapes, and is basically designed for aircraft modelers to meet thier needs when painting complex wing to fuselage color changes. Complete instructions are included with it, but basically you take it from the backing sheet and stretch it widely to 'activate' it, then press it into position, lightly burnish, and cut along the area  you need to mask with a fresh blade and a light touch. It's really easy to cut, of course the blades' tip is ground away almost instantly when cutting across sand like this(see my blade above)


Here's the stuff on the roll. I'll say it's really come in handy a few times and works perfect for masking areas I want to hit with my #77 Spray as well. It is one of those products that seems really difficult to use at 1st but later is very easy & helpful. ( One mistake I made was not fully-masking that lower area--even though I didn't hit it directly, some overspray was visable when I was finished and I had to touch-up the base sides)Luckily(The Aged Iron texture paint is very forgiving when touching up--and can even be decanted and brushed without blend issues!)
 


So much faster and easier than trying to mask that with tape!

 


After painting, and removing the masks, it's done it's job.
 
~Continued~

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Monday, March 15, 2010 3:22 AM

Ok Last post for tonight~

~Painted Desert Part II
 

 ~For the sand painting, nothing seemed better than Vallejo #120 Model Color Buff . I suppose I'd use the Model Air stuff if I had more colors here, but as I suspected, thinned properlly the Model Color worked just great. I wanted to spray in several semi-transperent layers, and so  thinned the #120 with 25%  #524 Thinner from Vallejo and 15% Distilled Water as well.
 
 
 
 
You can see how this size Dio base is at about the limits of  my spray booths' use

 
 Following the Buff, but thinned the same, I used #008 Beige, a slightly lighter , similar color
 
 

 And followed that with Biege lightened with #004 Off White, thinned 30% instead of 40%
 

 After  that I took it out into the afternoon sun, to get a good look at what I'd done under natural conditions, the way a desert needs to be viewed.
 

 Some color refinements and variation will be applied by way of powdered pigments next, to impart the powdery feel that's needed as well. One unfortunate effect of painting the sand is that the grains do get coated and become a little bit larger. Next time I may try to do it in less passes!
 

Masking removed from the side-boards and the 1st rock--to see how that looks- but that's a subject for a different post!
 
~~Thanks as always for your interest in following along...................Indy
 

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Cary, North Carolina
Posted by M1Carbine on Monday, March 15, 2010 2:39 PM

WOW!, UNBELIEVABLE!.

Beautiful Indy, just beautiful.

 

Bob

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Tuesday, March 16, 2010 12:07 AM

~~Those words greatly appreciated BoB!!

              ~~Please be a believer~~

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Tuesday, March 16, 2010 9:08 AM

Oh man, by looking at your diomara, it made me CAN'T WAIT to hit the beach next week in Bahamas for our spring break! Cool The sand looked VERY convincing... really appreciate you taking your time to show us how it can be done.

Andy

Mic
  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: AusTx, Live Music Capitol of the World
Posted by Mic on Tuesday, March 16, 2010 6:25 PM

Really gorgeous groundwork, Indy. Truly remarkable.

Steve

 

Steve M.

On the workbench: every tool, paint, brush, glue I own

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Wednesday, March 17, 2010 9:24 PM

Mic

Really gorgeous groundwork, Indy. Truly remarkable.

Steve

 

Man--that is a real pleasure to hear from you Steve!  Stop back again soon--things are happening.(BTW what's the story with yout W.I.P.? Inquiring minds wanna know Zip it!)

Work is currently proceeding !

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Cary, North Carolina
Posted by M1Carbine on Thursday, March 18, 2010 1:15 PM

Indy; freaking awsome as always buddy.

 

Bob

Mic
  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: AusTx, Live Music Capitol of the World
Posted by Mic on Thursday, March 18, 2010 1:21 PM

Hey Indy, I'm in the process of buying a house, so all hobbies have been sidelined. Will be back up and running soon.

Steve

 

Steve M.

On the workbench: every tool, paint, brush, glue I own

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: South Carolina
Posted by jetmodeler on Thursday, March 18, 2010 4:35 PM

Good choice for the sand. The beach sand looked larger than the other sand did. I really like the side of the base.

 

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Friday, March 19, 2010 3:27 AM

~Steve~ Sounds good Man--godd luck with the house! That's awsome.

~BoB~ Big Smile Thank you Man--you say the nicest things!

~Jet~ Right on, thanx <---

UPDATE---


~~After a number of days with the liquid frisket in place on the porous rock, & covered in layers of glue, sand, & paint....the latex was a bit well-stuck-on...& took a good deal of time to remove. It had done it's job very well though and stayed in position without fail everywhere.
 

To remove the mask, I used tweezers & needle-tipped pliers, to grab the maximum area at once. In some places the stuff refused to lift, and needed a little roughing-up with a wire-brush, which worked fine on the bare rock surface.
 

Here's the painted base after unmasking the rock, and just after beginning to add some various powdered pigment  to blend and in other places break up  excesss continuity.
 
 

You can see some subtle color changes introduced here, as well as some rock-chips in strategic places. More will come as a last step, along with a few signs of plant life.
 

The scale-size of the sand is not perfect, but it's partly depending on where your focus is,
 

The base is essentially finished
 

I thought this might be a little fun....
 

Then I tried these  .......  works for me.
 
 
Hope you guys like it too...........
 

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    July 2008
Posted by Leviathan on Friday, March 19, 2010 5:53 PM

Indy,

Read the entire post today.  Truly unbelievable.  Amazing.  You my friend, are at the pinnacle of the hobby/art. 

Regards,

Leviathan

"Target! Cease fire..."
  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Saturday, March 20, 2010 1:38 PM

~Levi~ Can I call you Levi? I'm really pleased that you took an interest to read your way through this huge project and enjoyed it. I hope you took home some useful ideas.

  As for being at the pinnacle....hhmmm...I don't know about that--I'm  building my 5th Dio here---at about 2 years doing scale models. I like to think my personnal pinnacle is ahead of me  Zip it!

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Saturday, March 20, 2010 11:31 PM
~~One more fun thing to try ---> A FLIPBOOK
 
 
 
 
 
 
      
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Indy
 

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Sunday, March 21, 2010 7:20 PM

 ~Painting The 7.5 cm Pak 40

 ~Yes.. it's been a while......
~Not wanting to worry about the finish on the fieldgun as I moved it around quite alot during the base-build, I saved painting and weathering it until now.

~You may remember my Dragon Pakgun from the 1st chapter (I know it's been a while! Sad) I had it completely assembled, base-coated with Tamiya TS-46 Light Sand & a few coats of Future applied.

 
To get some interesting camoflage into the scene, I'm going to portray a Tropin  two-color Camo of a gun likely headed originally to the nearby Mediterranean,  that was diverted to defend a not-quite-overwith Axis presence in Tunisia.
 

 
Above I've masked-off the sand-coloured stripes using the Liquid masking Fluid again(I was considering using the popular silly putty metheod, but with all the delicate little parts on this piece I wasn't sure about that stuff, I just have mre experience/ confidence in the latex. To continue with my norm( of trying to show how to do some common things a bit differently  Wink) I began by spraying a much lighter, brighter color 1st, This colour was a mix of Tamiya XF-58 Olive Green, XF-57 Buff & alcohol
 
  


~~And then misted on a darker blue-green seen in my reference, made of a mix of Tamiya  XF-18 Medium Blue &XF-52 Olive green
 


The paints we're lightly applied to avoid build-up along the mask
  


~Although the green is a pretty close match--the sand color I used is alot more lively than seen in the reference shot--(which shows more of a grey-biege, but it looked a bit sickly with my groundwork colours  in trials and I took some liberties to tweek it a bit--)-still, it does get a bit closer after weathering.
 


Weathering included first and over-all glaze of Pollyscale clear gloss mixed with s small amount of both Tamiya Buff & Deck Tan to unify the camo and represent some old road dust too.  After drying several hours this was followed  with a gritty-looking dark wash of Floquil Engine Black & Tuscan. This brought out some small details and imparted a grimy look.
 
 

Above It's very close, I'm just applying some final touches with pigment powders, and picking-out some detail items with Tamiya paints. The Tires(painted seperately) where drybrushed with Floquil paints in the same way you say on the Kubelwagon, and the treads loaded with sand by way of a sludge-wash. A few other details we're dealt with in ways consistaint with those earlier in  this blog.
      Since this fieldpiece is supposed to be only around a month old in the story my Dio tells, there is minimal scratches, no rust or missing parts, but there is a great deal of dust & grime.
 
~More pictures to follow~~~~

 


Some more images of the completed Pak 40
 

 

Bare steel areas depicted with my old favorite mixes of Testors Enamels, Steel, Bright Silver, & Black  thinned with white spirits
 
 
Very minimal paint scratches hand painted with Vallejo Camo Black Brown and a very fine liner brush.
 

 
 
I did take some liberties with the colors as seen here, but I think the over-all look is still right, considering I'm dipicting frairly fresh paint--and  the look on the Dio (not showing yet ) seems to be very good


 
~Work has already started with the grip of figures...updates up soon ........
        thanks for reading along Gents.............

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: South Carolina
Posted by jetmodeler on Monday, March 22, 2010 9:06 AM

WOW!

Looks amazing. Did you use the same weathering technique that you used on the Opel Blitz? Can't wait to see the figures.

 

  • Member since
    November 2007
  • From: Oregon
Posted by Lufttiger on Monday, March 22, 2010 10:44 AM

Really awesome dio, your a master with the groundwork, which is something i always struggle with.

What is liquidtex?, not seen that stuff arround.

I think your camo job is perfect, turned out better than what i think silly putty will do.

Close to being done i should think, unless you've not started on any of those figs, and if
i remember there was alot of em.

Anyway you done such a subperb job at documenting this dio, that you could have a book just on this!Bow Down

www.lufttiger.com

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Cary, North Carolina
Posted by M1Carbine on Tuesday, March 23, 2010 1:02 AM

Indy - STUNNING!

 

Bob

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Wednesday, March 24, 2010 10:40 PM

~Jet~ Thanks Big time Buddy---no, not the same--it's all in the text, but basically the Opel was a much more complex paint job--one of the most involved I've done...considering the  extent of the base-paints, chipping effects and other weathering, numerous dust treatment,ect. This gun was a fairly quick job by comparison and involved little weathering besides a couple layers of dust.

~Luftiger~ Hey man--I really appreciate those comments--and yeah, I think the groundwork is likely my favorite part of building---good thing for a Dio guy, huh//? Liquatex is just a popular brand of artist paints, famous for thier acrylics(of which I have many) and also thier acrylic peripheral products such as paint additives---but sorry--I mis-spoke mentioning it--I meant to say W&N Liquid mask---I had some of the Liquatex brand mask but used it up--nearly the same product--honestly the W&N is a bit easier to work with.

Work has started on the figures--post regarding that is coming---glad you enjoy the thread!

~BoB~  My friend you have a way with word.    thanks!  




  

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Thursday, March 25, 2010 12:24 AM

Chapter Next - Painting the Figures
 
Gents......The work has begun. Things at the shop have really picked up and I seem to be getting home later all the time lately...but I make sure to devote at least some time to working on "Clash" everyday
  Upon taking on the painting of the fourteen(14) figures for this Dio, I picked them all up and considered them all again(CLOSELY) to ensure I'd removed any offending parting lines, rough spots, or pits, ect.............and as soon as I began adding basecoats, many of those imperfections made themselves known ! And so since have attempted to quadrupal-check everything...none-the-less, no doubt something will squeek by
 
 
Way back,     when I completed each figure ......it was carefully and completely primed using Tamiya Dark Yellow. Several days ago(prior to really sitting down to begin painting) I used a number of  washes, made of Windser&Newton Burnt Sienna and Van *** Brown Oil paint in white spirit----over all the flesh areas, to bring out every little nuance of the features.
 
 

~One application does a fairly nice job of it if you've mixed the wash right, but several selective applications can be an easy way to set off features. Afterward, I lets these areas dry several days--(likely much more than needed) to play it safe, {as oil and I are still at odds} Although I tend to mainly work in acrylics, this is a tremendously excellent way to begin, which many painters use, but I credit Mark Bannerman's superb tutorials on Missing Lynx with showing me.
 
So much has been written on the subject of figure painting, and in the interests of having so much ground to cover with this figure painting job--I do not intend to do a blow by blow with each mini-man, but since I've tried to log a very complete build here, I hope to present this phase in a thorough enough way that the subject is not glossed-over, and I can show my way of doing things, both  the common and unique.
 

After treating the flesh areas of all 14 figures  in this same way, I began with the Brits, blocking in the base colours of thier fatigues. I like to have base colors on everything before I complete the heads, as there's just too much paint being flicked-around for my liking during that. I also have found it's better to have the base colors everywhere before attaching personnal equipment, or I've found there's always missed spots. For these uniform colors I've made varied mixes of  Vallejo 004 Off White, 116 Middllesone, & 304 Track Primer(from Panzer Aces series)   The standard battle-dress trousers that two of the  Desert Rats  are wearing, we're based with 141 English Uniform, lightened with 120 Buff. The Lee Enfield rifles got two thin coats of Tamiya XF-9 Hull Red to start--
 
 

Plenty left to do, but it's starting to get fun !
          
                More to come..........................................................Indy

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posted by T-rex on Thursday, March 25, 2010 8:54 AM

WOW, now that is one of the best groundswork I've seen.

Working on: Trumpeter SU-152 (1/35) Trumpeter E-10 (1/35) Heller Somua (1/35)

"The world is your enemy, prince of a thousand enemy. And when they'll find you, they will kill you... but they will have to catch you first ''

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Thursday, March 25, 2010 12:09 PM

Ditto  No question it will be a great candidate for FSM cover... even maybe USA Today newspaper too!  It has been FUN watching the process... since summer I think.

Andy

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Friday, March 26, 2010 12:09 AM

 

 

 

 Postcards from the Front
T--Rex~  I appreciate that buddy--stick around--more to come

 

deafpanzer

Ditto  No question it will be a great candidate for FSM cover... even maybe USA Today newspaper too!  It has been FUN watching the process... since summer I think.

Deafman~ That's awsome of you to say ---I'm really glad you are enjoying the build--I started blogging Oct. 10 after working on building up the figures a couple days....so 5months...headed to 6 ! Should be done at that point. Ever seen a big Dio on a FSM cover? Me either.

 

At at the bench tonight blocking-in the base colors for the DAK uniforms.
 
............more posted as it accumulates 

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Saturday, March 27, 2010 1:09 PM
 
The next phase, for me,  after blocking in the uniform areas, is to go back to the skin, and really get to work the face & hands & in this case...well....knees....by  first blocking in a medium flesh tone, and then working it in from medium to medium-dark.
 

I don't really need a full palette  at this stage--that's just too much to try to do all at once, especially with this many figures I'm working in a row. Above is what works for me--a small cigar tin full of bottlecaps(save your caps!--if you drink beer or pop--drink it out of a bottle and collect the caps!! They are awsome for this--the Missus puts them in the dishwasher basket for me  and into my collection)
   For this stage in the palette is Vallejo
019 Dark Flesh,
024 Medium  Flesh ,
80 / 20 %   147 Leather Brown & 150 German Camo Black Brown 
70 /30 %  German Camo Blk Brn & Leather Brn
 
All mixed down to 'feel' with Distilled Water
 

First I block-in the most medium shades of flesh using....well .....Medium Flesh! I use a fine 6/0 liner to draw out alot of the features, saving the areas of the dark wash in most cases, as they define the sculpt(and the coming paintjob) I also use a very typical choice of a  #0 Round brush doing this, and a few other larger brushes to smooth out the larger areas to avoid build-up anywhere.
 

The next step involves all four colors in my tin(and some intermixing in some cases) At this point, things begin to take shape and I thank Andy Mitchell for nudging me to order the Hornet Heads for this!! The face has a somewhat 'digitized' look at this point, and is far from complete....but the importaint features are all readable, even if I don't worry about being entirely accurate about everything at this stage.
 
 
 
Thin layers of the darker skin colours are layed into shadow areas, actually softening the work of the original washes....but also blending some with the larger areas. Last step is to add basically the first highlight with   the Dark Flesh, which is just slightly brighter than the Medium.


I paint all the areas of flesh as I work each figure--nothing worse than having to try to match your work later and having the legs not match the arms! Part of what makes this stage quick and effective for me is I actually do some wet in wet blending with the acrylics . YES...it can be done--no you don't have time for alot of manipulation, but as I don't need perfect colour placement at this early stage...I can use it to get far along in the shading process in just a few minutes. It helps to have multible brushes in hand for this--one for each color and another clean one to blend.
 


That kneecap will need some defining later with highlights (and widening) but not bad considering it didn't exist at all a few minutes ago.
 
 
Here is another of the Desert Rats taken to this stage. I got all six to this point in one evenings time....
 
.......and it gets better.day by day...................

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.