How I Build Dioramas(step-by-step)

Dioramas and picture taking

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I really enjoy doing large dioramas but funny enough it is the up close camera shots that I really love.It is the "slice of life" ,single frame ,movie set look that I am after.Once the diorama is finished and the photos taken, the diorama doesn't interest me that much any more.
I plan to use the Jenny dio to take many pics of cars and aircraft models that I have around here from different eras, before I ship it off to the museum.It is a lot of fun to find different camera anglles and create little vignette scenes within the larger dioramas.I especially like the "looking through the windows views" both in real life and in my camerawork.Looking through a darkened window into a lighted hangar gives me a real sense of being there.
As you can see I am not too good at the lighting aspect yet and a lot of the shots are too bright but that is something I plan to work on in the future.

Plexiglass Windows.

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Using an old CD case,I broke the edges to get to the flat plexiglass.I then used some low tack painters tape to protect one side from scratches and on the other I scratched on the window pattern.To make the scratches visible I took a soft graphite pencil and highlighted the groove.The plexiglass was then cut out on my jig saw although a handsaw could have been used.Keep in mind that when you are cutting plexi the plastic ,due to the heat being generated,will melt and reattach itself behind the jigsaw blade.Therefore it is wise to make long continuous cuts and break the two pieces apart by hand.
I have just about finished the 3 windows in the engine shop,then it is on to the garage door type doors in which I am also planning to put windows.I will then probably begin furnishing the interior of the shop.

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This is the last of the Figure posing ideas based upon the Walkaround.I think I finally found the artists name ; A.G. Magstrom on the last drawing that I had somehow overlooked before.I think he really did a good job in capturing poses that would also be good for dioramas depicting maintenance procedures.
On the Jenny dio,the windows in the engine shop are finished and the windows in the doors are now being worked on.I have decided ,after much wavering back and forth ,to put a small hole (one 4"X4" roof checkerboard size) in the engine shop roof depicting an open ventilation type trap door.Although there are 5 windows in the shop some views were really restricted.The plan is to have the Mercedes in kind of a storage area and the 2nd engine another OX5 being worked on, so good viewing angles really are a priority.Besides Reid & Sons are a good bunch of owners and skylights for the workers is essential.

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I feel bad that I don't get a chance to particpate more in the day to day Forums.What with building this diorama and maintaining the How to... threads,helping with the Honey do's and looking after "Belle" the Model A ,I really am busy.Sometimes I notice my private mail only well after it has been sent to me,for this I apoligize.In years gone by my energy level would have allowed me to do a better job!
Cheers ! John.

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This is a Tamiya figure that I picked up the other day of aWW2 Japanese fighter pilot.It is in 1/16th scale but a little shorter in stature than my other 1/16th figures.
It has all the makings of a nice modified WW1 (or as in my case ) a 20's barnstormer.Normally ,I would just make some mods to the flying suit and use it pretty much as is ,but in this case I think that I will try another seated figure(my 1st was the guy seated in the model A in the Nieuport diorama)He may look good seated in one of the airshow cars.
The last time that I tried this I didnt have a mannequin to work with and it turned out OK but this time it should be a lot easier.This is a hollow plastic figure so I plan to use lots of A+B epoxy as a filler in certain areas.I like to overbuild areas of the figure and then carve it down with rotary tools much like you would to carve wood.Another for my to do list......

I am getting a little bored with woodwork right now ,so maybe it is time to at least start on the above figure.I think as a first step I will put the newly acquired mannequin together and work on a few poses.
Then I will begin the figure by removing some unwanted parts of the uniform and lifejacket ,as well as whatever that thing is on the front of his pants.(built in relief tube for those extra long flights?)

I used my rotary tool and a ruby carver to remove some of the uniform.Use a medium speed as you dont want to melt the plastic and clog up the bit.
Remove only small amounts at a time.You can hold your finger on the inside where you are working and if you feel any heat stop and hold it up to a light, to make sure that you dont carve right through.Wear a mask and eye protection.Remove all unwanted detail and if possible try to retain as many of the folds as you can.
I left my figure a little paunchy around the middle until I figure out exactly how he will look when seated.Actually he looks a little like me with what I call the "porky pilot" look.The grooves on the back of the figure were a little too deep so I decided to build it up a bit with 2 part ,5minute, epoxy paste.Once this sets overnite(or 24 hours ,to be really safe )I will then continue the carving process.

The next pic will show where I used the same epoxy paste to beef up the inside of the figure ,where the light showed me where things were getting a little thin and there was a danger of breaking through the plastic.

Right now I don't have any idea how this will work out so it is a bit of an adventure for you and me both.If I screw it up well at least it would have been fun trying something different.

Using the same burr I continued to thin down the plastic .Nowhere did I actually break through to the exopy beneath but in some places it is very thin.Iwill stop here until I bend the body to the seated position.
The back of the figure was carved down to a smooth finish.If the epoxy paste tends to come off in pieces instead of a dust let it cure awhile longer.When dealing with a shiny plastic surface rough it up a bit before applying the exoxy,using a burr or sandpaper.
Next it is on to finding a position that I like using the mannequin as an example and then trying to reposition the figure as required.

A friend on another thread wrote:

PS: Just an after-thought. You may want to try some 2-part polyester automotive putty like "Evercoat" to fill in the backs of the figures. If you break through, it sands more like plastic.... and you can use what's left in the can to fill the seams when you chop the top on that 1:1 jalopy you're playing with.


Speaking of "Belle" the 1931 Ford Tudor,I understand that Minicraft has just brought out a 1/16th kit of the exact same car as "Belle" even down to the red and black color scheme.This style and year seems to be very popular with the diecast companies and kitmakers.I think that it must be because the "Tudor" was Henry's original idea for the "A" sort of like what the DC3 was to aviation.
Being a history buff myself I really enjoy having the tudor more than I would any other car of the era ,as it really is an American icon of automotive history, and besides it is a heck of a lot cheaper to buy than the more popular roadster or pheaton versions.
After a fun summers driving I plan to put her on jacks soon for the winter.
Cheers! John.

 

I am having trouble posting to this site,is anyone else experiencing the same problem?

Still can't post pics to this site,sorry.

If anyone is still interested in following this thread,I also post over on the auto site and numerous other modeling websites.Cheers! John.

Hi Guys! me again.I will try to give this picture posting thing another shot.Cheers! John.