How I Build Dioramas(step-by-step)

The advertising trailer is finished, weathering and all.One of the great things about doing these hangar scenes, is that you can put in a lot of colorful detail but still have the option of toning the whole thing down through weathering.The trailer,car and motorcycles for example, were originally painted quite bright but by using just 3 colors of pastels,black,dark grey,&sienna, these objects just seem to fade into the background while leaving the aircraft the centerpiece of the diorama.The airplane is only slightly weathered because most of its life was spent fabric covered.By adjusting the amount of weathering you do on an object you can draw your viewers attention to or away from it.The second Jenny will be heavily weatherind being a derelict airplane with hanging and torn fabric,rust etc....The lighting will also determine where the spotlight goes so to speak.This is very much a balancing act and I spend a lot of time trying to get it right but when you do the effects can be dramatic.A lot of the art of the diorama is in creating a certain atmosphere or mood.Downplaying here and highlighting there.

I also try to keep in mind the enviroment.This is a late Fall scene,November 11,here in Canada and it can be quite cold.I will have a fire going in the stove and the figures dressed fairly warmly(however we Canucks are a hardy bunch but I may have to dress our American guests a little more warmly )The sign on the trailer has been weathered and reflects a long summer in the sun,and is little faded and worn.These little thing are very important to creating believability in your piece. to be cont.....

Well it worked out OK.I had to use only 8 layers of wood to build it up to the proper thickness(.See the booklet and plans for the dimensions.) The black paper sandwiched betrween the wood layers looks good,almost like an extra layer of walnut veneer.I built the prop to the kit dimensions but it looks a little too narrow compared to some pics of the Jenny that I have seen.Although it seems that many different props were used over the years .Some drawings call for copper tips and leading edges but I am a little reluctant to do this and spoil the look of the prop.The wood really looks nice the way it is.Maybe I will make 2, one with copper and one without.

Laminated wood props are not hard to make.This style of prop has a fairly simple shape.From the hub center to half way down the length there is no taper and from there to tip a gradual taper to the end.If you draw a pencil line half way down the prop blade and then another line tapered to the end and carve out of boths sides to that line that should get you strarted.Get yourself an example of a prop from your stash and study it carefully for overall shape.Once you have the initial tapered shape you should be able to go from there using your example.If you screw up the first one put a model clock in the middle and hang it on the hangar wall.

When finished carving, sand down with different grit sandpapers down to 600.Spray with alcohol to raise the grain and sand again with 600 paper.Repeat until the wood shines.I finished mine with a mix of 2/3 laquer and 1/3 laquer thinner. Now whats next! To be cont......

In Shep Paines book "How to Build Dioramas" (2nd edition)at the back of the book Chapter 16 he has added a section on mirrors,forced perspective and other special effects.This is what I mean about thinking outside the box.His HMS VICTORY gun deck with the moving ship outdside the portholes is another great example.This is where the real fun of diorama making exists.Trying to expand your creative horizons.It really isnt that hard if you have an open mind and a kids sense of play and go where your interests take you.

I have an idea that I am working on at present that really is someone elses idea that I am taking one step further.When I was a bird carver I would often find myself looking at others work and saying "now why didnt I think of that".That is when I knew that I was somehow blocked in that field of creativity.I think that it had something to do with not understanding the subject completely.Since I have taken up diorama making the opposite is true.The ideas seem to be everywhere.I know that I will never be able to do everything at my age (I need a couple more lifetimes for that)But I sure am having fun at 64 ,being a kid again.

I guess what I am trying to say is that when you are on the right track you will know it.If you have what you think is a great creative idea,go for it.Otherwise it could be lost forever. Cheers! John.

I have been experimenting with doing a lot of heavy weathering on diecasts recently.It is really a lot of fun although it seems a little funny creating something by destroying something else.(like a really cool paintjob)Anyway,
it has got me to thinking about using diecasts in dioramas.There is a lot of potential here for those who like dioramas but havent got the time to scratchbuild everything.
There are some really nice WW2 fighters in 1/18th scale being produced now, and I am sure that with time there will be some WW1s offered.They are also making more figures in 1/18th scale as well and then you have your pick if you would like to add cars to your diorama.
I know that there are some WW1 diecasts offered in smaller scales and that would be a great place to start.Put them in a nice dioramic setting,weather them as little or as much as you want and for minimum time and effort ,your now a dioramist.You could rig the biplanes as little or as much as you want depending on your storyline.With a little imagination the sky is the limit.

The hardest hurtle to get over is to take that nice shiny airplane, that you have paid multi bucks for and screw up the surface.Once you get over this the rest is easy.Over the next couple of days I will offer a tutorial on what works best for me.I hope that I am leaving you guys who are interested in dioramas but have not yet started, less and less reasons not to get on with it..Cheers! John. ( P.S. try to find a source of damaged or 2nds if you can.)

This seems to work on any surface plastic,wood,metal whatever.
The secret is in surface preporation.It works even on a highly polished enamel surface.
Prepare the surface by sanding off the shiny new surface with 600 or higher sandpaper.You want to dull the surface not create scratches.Rub until all the shine is gone.Next paint the surface with a 50/50 gesso -water mix and dry with a hair dryer if you like.Dont set the hair dryer too close to the surface but just blow the warm air across it.(you can always just air dry it if you want)
Now if you want to put some color on, put it on in thin layers (at least a 50/50 mix,even more water if you are using tube colors)Dont completely cover the gesso surface with a solid new color if you want a real antique look,some of the undercoat should show through.
Now the fun part.Take some watered down burnt sienna and using an old brush and a washboard surface vigorosly scrub the paint until it foams up.Then take this foamy paint,bubbles and all and dap it onto the surface.Dry with a hair dryer and repeat as many times as necessary to get that nice rusty and corroded looks.Works great on old barrells,oil cans,engines ,cars whatever needs antiqueing.Take your time and have fun,I sure am. Cheers! John.