1/18 scale Tervamaki Engineering JT-9T autogyro

The first base color layer sprayed with no problem and then a second white color layer applied on specific spots to simulate enlightened areas. Then, using very diluted acrylic color Vallejo paint, 2-3 extra thin layers were sprayed throughout, until the result become realistic and simulate correctly the enlightened areas.

As soon as the previous layers of acrylic Vallejo paint and gloss coat varnish dried, I placed small slips of paper between the frame and the sheet of the fuselage, to protect the red colour that was already applied and dried. Next, I masked areas not to be painted using the adhesive Tamiya tape and sprayed with the interior green colour.

After the interior colour dried, the slips of paper and adhesive masking tape removed and minor corrections were made in 1-2 spots with a fine brush. The result was sprayed with gloss varnish, to apply washing on certain points.

Hello Nick, it's good to see you on the forum again!

If I'm not mistaken, it's your first post on the modified forum, isn't it? I hope you adopted to the changes without problems. And your build is looking awesoma as always, I almost forgot to mention that

I wish you good luck with your build, and also have a merry christmas, and a happy new year! 'Till next time

Pawel

The steps are slow, but I prefer steady progress rather than hastily. Unfortunately, the problems are not missed. Although I do not think myself as awkward, after the incident with the (voluntarily flying) autogyro model scaffolding under my sleeve and threw (launched to be precise) on its own initiative, brought about 4 or 5 spin turns and finally abnormal landed about 5 feet away and 3 feet lower, I begin to believe that this model has been seriously voodoo curses. Despite the delicate structure of the fuselage, the use of CA glue and maybe a mirracle, were the main reasons that the model escaped having suffered only a broken landing gear, scratchbuilt again.



After the scale model was masked & sprayed with primary colors as described above, the same methodology followed for the canopy, scratchbuilt by transparent plastic on a vacuum former. After the acrylic paint and mat enamel coat dried, I removed the masking tape and I saw the following:





The masking tape that I had used, had left noticeable marks on the transparent part of the canopy - something that had never done before! Being sure now that this scale model is indeed cursed, I dropped by the local grocery store around the corner from where I returned with few garlic cloves. Not having a similar experience before and fearing that if I try to clean the masking tape glue marks using White Spirit will make the things worse with a huge dull hood, I tried to rub the clear plastic part with alcohol which although more friendly to transparent plastics, had to pass crash test first. Dipping a cotton swab in alcohol and water solution and vigorously rubbing the hood, the masking tape glue marks, finally removed as if it was gum.







With my heart beating on normal levels again and using airbrush, light tones of basic colours and shades of sand sprayed at low pressure to represent the weathering and dusting on LG and the lower part of airframe. After a satisfactory weathering result, the scale model was sprayed with mat enamel coat. I left it 24 hours to dry and the individual parts of the scale model were test assembled (no glue), so that the autogyro model start to look like a united construction and please the eye.











Having now left the last part of the assembly of the individual already dyed parts of the model, such as the rotor blades, the cockpit flight & engine controls, the cables, the seat belts and other necessary details, I begin to hope that perhaps this model might be ready very soon.

Nick, nice to see the work is progressing. Sorry to hear about your problems, but then again it's a good thing for me to see the ways you are dealing with them, I'm learning here. And I hope it's not only me. It just amazes me how little comments your great work gets. Keep it up and have a nice day

Pawel

Some update pictures after washing / weathering / colour fading. Control cables are already installed. Still remain to be added:

• The canopy,
• Both propellers,
• The radio device & GPS,
• The engine control levers,
• The windshield and windscreen wiper,

and also paint some details such as engine cables etc.

Details on rotor blades and the engine. The rotor blades are made of sterene sheet softened in boiling water to strech 'n' turn in a way to look realistic. Soft sanding applyied on the blade's leading eadge to be shaped as it should be. The spinner cone was made of an old 1/48 scale fuel tank tip, found in sparebox.

The JT-9T model posing for the camera...

Nick- it's fantastic!!  My hat's off to you, Maestro- what talent and tenacity you have!

Cheers-

chuk

Yea Chuck - Nick is one of the best modellers in this forum. He builds incredible things from almost nothing. And he's so tough he doesn't care for comments in his threads. He gets so little comments for such splendid job he does. And even if he gets any he doesn't answer them

Aw, whatever! Keep up the excellent job Nick! And what about the F-16 you got? Have a nice day

Pawel

See what I mean? That's the man - keep it up dude! And have a nice day, by the way

Pawel

Mr Karatzides

Thank you for sharing your skill and talent. You have shown me some very useful techniques- Bravo

I personally am looking forward to your next project and the attending instruction.

Καλή τύχη

I’ve been asked about the available space where the rear passenger puts his feet on. From the pictures of the model have been published, and the art images (click HERE) found on the article’s first page, it appears that the rear seat is too close to the back of the front seat - and it is also clear from the bluebrints (click HERE) of the real autogyro that it’s not my own assumption or a model building mistake. In real autogyro, rear passenger's feet are not squeezed behind the front passenger seat back, but they are placed left & right of the front seat! To make it more understandable, here is a picture where:

• The green lines represent the front seat passenger and the position of his feet on the rudder pedals and
• The blue lines represent the rear seat passenger and the position of his feet on the rudder pedals.

Also notice that the position of controls (stick, rudder pedals and engine throttle) meet the relative position of the elevator and rudder fins, the nose wheel, etc. The front & rear seat rudder pedals perform exactly the same movements as linked to the same wire transmission. If you also check the rudder pedals position, you’ll notice right rudder pedals pressed front end, bringing the left rudder pedals full back. As an effect, the nose wheel turns to the right and rudder fin turns in a way to turn the autogyro to the right as defined by the position of the rudder pedals. In similar manner, both control sticks (which perform exactly the same movements as they are connected to the same bar drive) are positioned slightly forward. This has the effect of elevator fins rotation so as to oblige the autogyro in the descent, as defined by the position of the control sticks. In a similar position the main rotor head is placed as required. As it is known, the autogyros and the helicopters leans to the left or right, elevates nose up or descent nose down, by turning the main rotor blades disc and secondarily to aileron and elevator fins (if present) and turn to left or to right with the rudder fins (autogyros) or tail rotor (helicopters).



Click HERE to watch a video showing a tandem cockpit seating positions as described. Picture following too.

FEET?  what FEET?

DUSTER

FEET?  what FEET?

Nick_Karatzides

 She might say: "Is that your foot or are you happy to see me?"

Έχετε μια καλή εβδομάδα

A league of their own, Chuckw & Nick.    

I wish I would have followed this build. That thing looks amazing.

Nice job.

what more can be said except superb excellent outstanding and truly a noteworthy build. all it takes is a vision and plastic and perseverance and the results speak for them self .  sir my hats off to you .  so whats next on the workbench ?   what ever it is ill follow the build

I left it few hours to get harden in order to be sure that the cast wouldn't break when I would try to cut it into desired shape. Meanwhile, I took the soft rubber cup which I used to make the plaster mixture, squized it to break the last hardened plaster left inside, so it would be easier for me to clean it afterwards and prepare it for any future mix. That's the reason this soft rubber cup were used for.





As soon as the plaster cast got harden, cut into shape and the concrete plaques were lined with a scriber, I used my airbrush to paint it. After the polished wooden frame was covered with masking tape, three different acrylic paint layers were applied on the plaster surface. First, mat black colour covered the area and then a light grey applied with airbrush, spraying in almost zero degree angle, to let the darker areas between the concrete plaques remain naturally dark. The corner was paint with earth tones and as soon as the acrylic colours dried, I tried some drybrushing on selected spots using sand tones.

As for he grass & plants, I used three different ways:

• From my local hobby shop, I got different colours of static grass, empty them into a plastic box and make a mixture.

• Found into my garden perimeter, I collect few natural stuff, cut and placed into plastic box for such use.

• From my local super market, I got a small wicker broom. If you look closely, you’ll find some very interesting stuff for scale modeling use and dioramas building.

Water based white glue for wood, which becomes transparent when it dries, is just the right for the job. So, I opened a 500 grams canister bought for 2€ only, pick a small quantity, add just few drops of water with a syringe into a small metal container to make the right mixture and finally I applied on the desired areas to be filled with grass & plants, using a wet brush. Because the mixture is enriched with water based glue, it is easy to correct possible mistakes.

As soon as the result was OK, I sprayed over with Humbrol enamel mat coat, to seal the paint and grass, so far. I left it overnight and as soon as the enamel mat coat dried, I add very few light & dust effects with chalk dust. Feel free to check final pictures of the JT-9T autogyro placed on the display base.













Thank you for following this thread and I hope you enjoyed reading this article.

Nick

A very fine job.  Your display base is a work of art, as is the autogryo, Bravo

*-)] So does this mean you a great model builder that gardens or a great gardener that builds models--never mind it doesn't matter your just great-

I tried black paper background (instead of white) & different light conditions and I was surprised on how the model looks like. From now on, black background and low level lighting only...

PS. Please notice that a little sparrow bird is now present on tail fin

Nick_Karatzides

CHAPTER III – Instrument panel & cockpit construction

The original Tervamaki Engineering JT-9T autogyro instrument panel is not what you would call as "glass cockpit". Actually it does only have just the basic instruments in cockpit to provide the pilot with information about the flight situation, such as height, speed and attitude. Since the JT-8T autogyro is not designed to fly in conditions of poor visibility or night, the main information is available from visual reference outside the aircraft. Of course, many pilots who are lucky enough to own an autogyro, they might add more sophisticated equipment such as CFT screens, HSI - Horizontal Situation Indicator to follow VOR signals, GPS screens, VHF/UHF radio, replace the heading indicator by a GPS-driven computer with wind and glide data etc. The basic instrument panel is consist by:

• An altimeter indicator,
• an ADI - AttituDe Indicator,
• an ASI - Air Speed Indicator,
• a VSI - Vertical Speed Indicator,
• a fuel quantity indicator,
• an engine RPM tachometer,
• an analog clock and
• a magnetic compass.

I started by cutting the main panel shape in plastic and drilled the gauges positions. Using the Corel Photo Paint, I created a colored sketch of the instruments, copy & paste the image into a MS Word new file and print it on a simple A4 page. Meanwhile, I add some detail on the instrument panel, such as rivets made by streached sprue inserted in drilled out holes, knobs etc.

sometimes i'm a stupid.. i have some extra tool and not use it.

Often i scratch cockpit of my planes (or others machines) i have a good high quality printer but never used to prind instruments.

good work on the little helo! 

   BRAVO!  well done

WOW!! Now that, folks, is a how-to!!!!