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Revellogram B-29 Bockscar

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  • Member since
    May 2010
Revellogram B-29 Bockscar
Posted by eddiek1015 on Thursday, March 29, 2012 3:35 PM

For months now I've been lurking the forums here and have come to recognize a trend. It seems many of us have Revell / Monogram's 1:48 B-29 in our collections, but it seems to be almost too much for many to start, let alone finish. It seems, time, display space, finishing options, etc. all play into this. With this in mind, I've held off writing this post until I really had come to a point where I needed more advice.

I teach high school American History, and display my models in my classroom as a way to start discussions. This is where the B-29 came in, I loved the sheer size of it and knew it would get the kids asking questions.

As I began building, I realized that I needed to change some things. First, in my conservative school, I knew the racy nose art in the kit (Cream of the Crop / Humpin' Honey) would likely raise eyebrows with students, and possibly the administration. While I have no issue with these accurate markings, those were not quite the type of discussions I was hoping to start with the class. I opted to look online for some alternate art, and after finding the atomic bombs in the kit, decided it was time to go Silverplate.

While I realize that most of it will never be seen, I couldn't help but paint up the full interior of the plane. It gives me a chance to learn about how everything worked and went together. As most wouldn't be seen, I kept the inside looking VERY lightly used, almost fresh from the factory. As a reference, I used the Boeing B-29 Flight and Operations Manual. This helped me out a TON in identifying parts as this kit is a reissue with an awful lot of parts that will remain unused. For example, the kit included what looked almost like replacements for the leading edges of the wings, but after putting them together I realized that they created what looked like flattened cylinders. In consulting the manual, I found a diagram of the fuel system including auxiallary fuel tanks for the aft bomb bay. These were the "Tokyo Tanks" for the Silverplate Bombers!

Manual with "Fat Man" & "Tokyo Tank"

Diagram of B-29 Fuel System from "Flight & Operations Manual"

 I know most of the plane is closed up, but I couldn't help having fun with the interior. It is also a chance for me to learn.

After getting the fuselage closed up, it came time to work on the Silverplate conversion process. The kit comes with plugs for the gun turrets, one one of the two windows, but they do not sit flush and there are not enough of them. I ground off the turret mounts with a rotary tool, then used scraps of sprue to create a backing for the modified "plugs" to sit on. I ground the "lip" off the edges of the plugs so they could sit flush with the fuselage, then used filler. After lots & lots of sanding, it looks like the turrets were never there.

Probably the worst decision I made on this entire project was that after reading how nice models look after removing raised panel lines and rescribing, I decided to give it a try... A hint for those of you who don't know better. Try this out on a small fighter or something... That part of the project was nearly a dealbreaker for me. I looks alright, but there are a few mistakes and I don't think most people will notice anyway.

I have yet to attach the wings, but the model is primed and ready for paint. I did have some trouble with the "greenhouse" cockpit windows fitting properly, but I have seen this is a common issue with this particular kit.

The window issue... no amount of clamping heating, or gluing would get this part to stay sitting flush. I ultimately decided I'd have to just suck it up and deal with it.

Over the next few days, I plan to get the NMF done and start with decals. I plan to paint this beast up as "Bockscar" as it currently looks at the NMUSAF in Ohio. The only difference is it will be carrying the "Fat Man" replica inside.

I have a couple of things to figure out before I can completely wrap this kit:

- Should I try to do any preshading before doing a NMF? I love the effect with standard paints, but am not sure whether or not this works out well.

- I've picked up the Testor's Decal printing kit, but thus far am not that impressed with the enclosed software. Unless I pay an extra fee, I cannot upload images of the decals I want. I also need to figure out getting all of the markings to the proper scale.

Any ideas on these parts would be a HUGE help.

dmk
  • Member since
    September 2008
  • From: North Carolina, USA
Posted by dmk on Thursday, March 29, 2012 5:50 PM

Looks nice so far.

 

 As far as pre-shading, for NMF I usually paint the entire aircraft gloss black. Then I spray my NMF (I use Alclad) lightly in a thin stream front to back on the wings and up and down on the fuselage to represent streaky weathering, or you can spray the center of each panel  and work outward to give it a panel line preshade effect. Go back over sections that you want to appear lighter.

Obviously consult your reference pictures. Bock's Car is pretty darn clean and shiny in the museum these days so weathering may not be necessary at all..

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Scratchbuilder725 on Thursday, March 29, 2012 5:58 PM

I use the Testors decal system too, wat i do is find the picture i want or create one on MS word and then paste into the decal system. Also i noticed when applying the testors decal sealer spray it causes my decals to run red slightly just an fyi! GREAT MODEL!! i wish my AP U.S teacher had this in my class!!

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Ohio
Posted by B-17 Guy on Thursday, March 29, 2012 9:06 PM

Good to see ya back Ed.

As far as pre shading, I normally dont. But if I did I would do it lightly. But it also depends on what paint you are planning on using. 

  • Member since
    December 2011
  • From: AZ
Posted by Luft Modeler on Thursday, March 29, 2012 9:44 PM

If I can make a recomendation here since I did three NMF B-17G's is to get Model Master aluminum plate in the spray can. Make sure the finish is as smooth as possible, because any imperfection will show in NMF. I found the paint I suggested is very very user friendly. Normally I do not prime when doing NMF but it should not be a big deal with this particular paint. Pre shading is not needed with this paint as when you paint it and let it dry it will buff to a natural aluminum look. I used a very high grit sand paper to polish the paint. Start with 1000 grit and just lightly sand in direction of airflow and the panel lines will show themselves.

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Friday, March 30, 2012 3:20 PM

It seems many of us have Revell / Monogram's 1:48 B-29 in our collections, but it seems to be almost too much for many to start, let alone finish. It seems, time, display space, finishing options, etc. all play into this.

Actually, I've built it four times since I first aquired one in 78 or 79... Wink

After getting the fuselage closed up, it came time to work on the Silverplate conversion process. The kit comes with plugs for the gun turrets, one one of the two windows, but they do not sit flush and there are not enough of them... ...After lots & lots of sanding, it looks like the turrets were never there... .

There are actually two options for "Silverplate" Superforts... One was to use the plugs that go into the turret-wells, for modelers not yet ready to do the surgery, and another set, which required the removal of the turret-races... Neither are supposed to fit flush.. The larger plugs, which required cutting out the turret-races, fit over the holes, and weren't set flush... Those plugs, while a bit too thick and needed sanding or replacing, should sit a little "proud", as they're just aluminum panels, riveted over the fuselage, with no interior frame-work...  Check "Enola Gay" here:

http://aafradio.org/NASM/Enola_Gay_12_Aug_2003-4.jpg

 

As for painting, I highly recommend using Krylon Silver Foil Metalic... It's far and away shinier than anything else I've ever seen for an NMF...   It takes a little practice, and needs to be applied in light, even coats, but it'll leave a reflective surface that you can almost use for a shaving-mirror..  About 6 bucks for an 8-oz rattle-can...

Since your building it "Pre-Fatman Drop", I'd suggest you forgo any pre-shading at all... Just be sure to have a smooth surface...  Thos aircarft were practically brand-new in Aug of 45, and had very little weathering, other than the typical exhaust-stains... 

For the areas of the aircraft that are obviously a different texture, I'd just mask around them and shoot them with a clear flat over the Silver Foil paint...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Chapin, South Carolina
Posted by Shipwreck on Friday, March 30, 2012 3:56 PM

Eddiek1015, my B-29 is waiting on the shelf; production is about a year away. Does your manual refer to the bunk beds in a standard and/or silver plate? I have heard that the model is all wrong!

On the Bench:

Revell 1/96 USS Constitution - rigging

Revell 1/48 B-1B Lancer Prep and research

Trumpeter 1/350 USS Hornet CV-8 Prep and research

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Saturday, March 31, 2012 1:09 AM

Hans von Hammer

 

 

As for painting, I highly recommend using Krylon Silver Foil Metalic... It's far and away shinier than anything else I've ever seen for an NMF...   It takes a little practice, and needs to be applied in light, even coats, but it'll leave a reflective surface that you can almost use for a shaving-mirror..

Betcha haven't seen one of those in a while...

Nah, it's true. I also like Testors Chrome in the ozone buster. Comes out pretty bright.

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Saturday, March 31, 2012 10:33 AM

Betcha haven't seen one of those in a while...

Shaving-mirror? Nope..

Shipwreck

Eddiek1015, my B-29 is waiting on the shelf; production is about a year away. Does your manual refer to the bunk beds in a standard and/or silver plate? I have heard that the model is all wrong!

There aren't any bunks there.. That's actually where all the radar gear was installed, in that area... It was a berthing area with fold-down bunks on the pre-production YB-29s, but not B-29As...  More info here:

http://www.philcrowther.com/6thBG/6bgcrewm07.html

  • Member since
    May 2010
Posted by eddiek1015 on Saturday, March 31, 2012 3:49 PM

Shipwreck

Eddiek1015, my B-29 is waiting on the shelf; production is about a year away. Does your manual refer to the bunk beds in a standard and/or silver plate? I have heard that the model is all wrong!

The manual I'm using is the Boeing / Government issue "Flight & Operational Manual", one in a series of four (the remaining detailing primarily maintenance operations. It specifically says that the material included is up-to-date as of July 1943. According to Wikipedia, the B-29's first operational use was in May 1944, it also appears that project Silverplate did not begin until February 1944. So I believe that Hans could be correct about the area later on being used for radar gear, though I am curious if this modification went to every airframe or only some of them. As an example of what I mean, I refer to the gradual introduction of modifications on the B-17 line. Not every airframe of a given variant of that aircraft had the same avionics and modifications.

What I do have in the manual shows precisely what Hans speaks of, fold-down bunks for the relief crew. Also, there is a chemical toilet installed next to this area (represented in the model by a raised nub that I nearly cut off before recognizing what I was looking at.

 

 

This last photo actually shows the fold-down bunks installed, though this photo may have been taken in a YB-29. This is the only photo I have found of this particular area in the B-29. I have noticed that one modification in the Silverplate -29s is that the fire control electronics, bulkhead, & armor for the blister gunner area has been removed. The bulhead framework is there, but according to some of my eferences from Enola Gay these are merely partioned by fabric. See what I mean in pic #5 in this photo essay of the Gay from Smithsonian.

http://www.airspacemag.com/multimedia/Inside-the-Enola-Gay.html?c=y&page=1&navigation=previous#IMAGES

Regarding the turret plug comments, I acknowledge that the Silverplate plugs did sit a little proud, just not so much as the kit plugs do. Finally, I appreciate the tips for the NMF finish and was relieved to hear someone has had good results using Krylon. I'd picked up a rattle can of Krylon Metallic Brilliant Silver, but had wondered at how the finish would turn out. I love the shaving mirror comment, since that is the effect I see now at the NMUSAF. I plan to do only some light weathering, and this will leave a good base to work from.

Thanks for all the feedback, guys! If anyone does want some more info from this manual, I'm happy to share what I can find. Be aware though, that this info may not be as accurate for later variants or may not reflect changes made for Korean War bombers.

  • Member since
    May 2010
Posted by eddiek1015 on Saturday, March 31, 2012 5:35 PM

 

Hans von Hammer
 

There are actually two options for "Silverplate" Superforts... One was to use the plugs that go into the turret-wells, for modelers not yet ready to do the surgery, and another set, which required the removal of the turret-races... Neither are supposed to fit flush.. The larger plugs, which required cutting out the turret-races, fit over the holes, and weren't set flush... Those plugs, while a bit too thick and needed sanding or replacing, should sit a little "proud", as they're just aluminum panels, riveted over the fuselage, with no interior frame-work... 

Hans is absolutely right on how these turret plugs sit, here is another example using "Fertile Myrtle" in the Disney film "The Last Flight of Noah's Ark" (Decent flick, if you could get rid of that silly theme song they constantly repeat).

In this shot, you can see the removed "turret race" is covered by a curved piece of sheet metal. Look between the top blister & the vertical stabilizer.

In this one, the turret race is still there with a simple flat plug over the top.

Interesting to see both types of plug on one airframe.

Hans von Hammer

Since your building it "Pre-Fatman Drop", I'd suggest you forgo any pre-shading at all... Just be sure to have a smooth surface...  Those aircarft were practically brand-new in Aug of 45, and had very little weathering, other than the typical exhaust-stains... 

 

 Actually, it will be post "Fat Man". I plan to do an in-flight version of the aircraft, post-museum refurb, bay doors open showing off the aft bay tanks and the "Fat Man" replica carried in the forward bay.

  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: New Port Richey
Posted by deattilio on Saturday, March 31, 2012 6:41 PM

eddiek1015,  Your Superfortress is looking good, it is one of my favorite types.  I picked up “The Last Flight of Noah’s Ark” and the Air Classics magazine covering the movie to make something a little more interesting and as a way to hide that misshaped tail from the 1/144 Minicraft offering.  It will be inverted with the patchwork sail when I get done with it. 

 

WIP:
Trying to get my hobby stuff sorted - just moved and still unpacking.

 

"Gator, Green Catskill....Charlie On Time"
 

 

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Chapin, South Carolina
Posted by Shipwreck on Saturday, March 31, 2012 9:18 PM

So, by these photos, the kit plugs are not that inaccurate. Maybe a little thinning may help?

And, thanks everyone for the help with the bunks!

On the Bench:

Revell 1/96 USS Constitution - rigging

Revell 1/48 B-1B Lancer Prep and research

Trumpeter 1/350 USS Hornet CV-8 Prep and research

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2010
Posted by eddiek1015 on Saturday, March 31, 2012 9:51 PM

deattilio

eddiek1015,  Your Superfortress is looking good, it is one of my favorite types.  I picked up “The Last Flight of Noah’s Ark” and the Air Classics magazine covering the movie to make something a little more interesting and as a way to hide that misshaped tail from the 1/144 Minicraft offering.  It will be inverted with the patchwork sail when I get done with it. 

LOVE IT!!! Honestly, the thought had crossed my mind too if this one ever takes a dive from its' spot on the cieling. Please post pics when you finish it!

Shipwreck, The kit plugs aren't bad if thinned, but from what I've seen on the surviving Silverplate bombers, you might be just as well off to cut a circle from thin sheet styrene to glue in place over the top of the hole when you've removed the turret races. I've got some .005" stuff that is almost like stiff paper. I've used it for similar detail work on some of my scratchbuilds and I think it would work almost perfectly for this application.

  • Member since
    May 2010
Posted by eddiek1015 on Tuesday, May 29, 2012 3:47 PM

Finally!!! I have an update ready.

Things have been a bit crazy with the wrap-up to the school year, planning graduation, etc., but Bockscar is now completed and flying!

First, for my own critiques. I suck at painting canopies! Even after hours of masking with tape & liquid mask some paint still managed to work its way into places it shouldn't be. But worse was that some paint still flecked off when I removed the masks. Too bad, because I thought I was being extra-careful. Also, I now understand what people mean when they saw no amount of surface preparation is enough when doing NMF. After thinking things were perfect, I had an awful lot of minor scratches still show up. Also, I must have grabbed the wrong Krylon Metallic Silver, because she looks metallic, but nowhere near "shaving-mirror finish".

Gripes aside, I love the way things turned out. Remember, this is intended to be the MODERN scheme on Bockscar with her carrying Fat Man.

 

 

 

 

After our discussion about turret plugs, I took my own advice and used .005" sheet styrene to represent the sheet metal covers for the turrets. I love the way they turned out. Much closer to the original look than my previous efforts.

 

 

A few of the basic decals were straight from the kit, but most of the Bockscar-specific insignias were printed out using Testors decal paper. I've got mixed feelings about the stuff. The decals are a bit thick and if I have to finagle them around much, the inks tend to come off, even with their fixing agent. Otherwise, things looked pretty good. Oh! For the massive tail insignia, use setting solution and let it dry BEFORE you try to trim the decal to settle into the rudder joint. Mine tore, even using a new razor blade. After it dried though, it cut nice and straight and settled right in with a bit more setting solution.

As I'm going for the museum version of the plane, I did very little weathering on this beast. Mostly, I used a little Tamiya "Smoke" around the engine exhausts and some very light work with some powdered pastels.

So now BOCKSCAR is the centerpiece in my growing collection at work.

 http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd342/edkimpel/Picture016.jpg

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Belgium, EU
Posted by Ninetalis on Wednesday, May 30, 2012 2:34 AM

Wooooooow, that's one freacki'n awesome classroom! Propeller

I wish my classrooms were full of planes ,war stuff and newspapers about the war....
about the B-29, judging from what I can see, it's still very good, she still is 90cm on 75cm
(or something like that) so you still pulled of a great job!

Got some more pictures of the most awesome classroom in the world? Bow Down

With regards, Ninetalis. 

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Wednesday, May 30, 2012 11:46 AM

Also, I must have grabbed the wrong Krylon Metallic Silver, because she looks metallic, but nowhere near "shaving-mirror finish".

 

"Krylon Premium Silver Foil Metallic" was what I suggested...

I don't have any pics of my own builds that I've used it on (I hate "Glossy Warbird" finishes and only do them when I'm modeling a Warbird like "Sentimental Journey", and that hasn't hit the paint-shop yet), but here's a WIP-pic of pzl66's Monogram B-17G with it applied after I told him about it..

   After curing 48 hours, it can be handled and decaled without any of the metallic coming off onto your fingers, though...  Decals adhere the same as if it were a gloss finish (at least in my experience), although any clear film will be quite visible...  Things like serial numbers and squadron codes/aircraft ID letters and numbers need to be dry transfers for the best results, or make REALLY sure you trim the carrier film close, to include the centers of "O"s and other closed letters/numbers...

At any rate, if you apply an clear laquer or enamel overcoat to it, it dulls it at bit, best case, or can even ruin the "polished" effect altogther and make it appear to be just another shade of silver spray paint... PZ said he had good results with an acrylic overcoat, but I've never tried that, so I'll defer that to him..

Even after hours of masking with tape & liquid mask some paint still managed to work its way into places it shouldn't be. But worse was that some paint still flecked off when I removed the masks.

That's why I still free-hand canopies, lol...  The Superfort's a tricky canopy though.. Looks ok to me... As do the turret-plugs...

Overall, a fine effort on BIG bird...

BTW.. With it's gear down, I take it the B-17 is surrendering to Bf109 pilot?

 j/k

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2010
Posted by eddiek1015 on Wednesday, May 30, 2012 12:30 PM

Hans, you are absolutely correct about me not having the "Silver Foil Metallic". I couldn't find it at the store. It is probably just as well since there is an awful lot of clear decal film on that bird. Particularly on the tail insignia. For those who are interested, I learned that Photoshop is a great way to prep homemade decals. With all of the measurement tools, it was no sweat to match the decal sizes I needed. Also, thanks for the kudos on the greenhouse & turret plugs.

Talis, thanks for the comments about the classroom. Most of the newspapers and wall hangings are from my own collection (the Pearl Harbor & Titanic ones are reproductions). I've got a few more full original papers that I'm torn on whether to hang or keep intact (9/11, Bobby Kennedy Assassination, & others) Honestly, there is still quite a bit of empty space to fill, but having a classroom allows me to build & display some huge aircraft that would not fit in my home. Only 5 aircraft hanging in there so far... I might hafta add some pics a bit later on.

Finally, while I know Hans was teasing about the B-17, the dropped gear bugs me too. The B-17 was originally going to be a ground display, but I liked it so much when it was done I decided to hang her for a more public display. The Bf109 came later and I couldn't resist having it going after the bomber, so there you go!

BTW, LOVE the finish so far on "Sentimental Journey!"

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Wednesday, May 30, 2012 12:58 PM

BTW, LOVE the finish so far on "Sentimental Journey!"

Haven't started painting her yet (Still working the flight-deck and waist).. The WIP-pics are of pzl66's "Little Miss Mischief"...

As for finding the Silver Foil Krylon, I get it at Hobby Lobby.. Only place I've ever seen it, but then again, it might also be available at Michael's or other arts & crafts store.. Only comes in 8-oz cans too, far as I know..

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Belgium, EU
Posted by Ninetalis on Wednesday, May 30, 2012 4:41 PM

Would be very cool to see, My history classroom is boring as hell,
Just some pictures that are allready hanging there for 10 years or so... oh yea and some timelines that you can find in a first grade classroom or however it's called in the US.

And yes, In my room is also have some stuff that I would like to hang off my wall, but I just don't since I don't want to damage 'em. Good thing we have copying machines for that.
Also, about the Natural Metal FInish, I Haven't tried that so far, so still, it's a great job you pulled off.

With regards, Ninetalis

  • Member since
    August 2016
Posted by Brichardson96 on Tuesday, August 9, 2016 2:37 PM

When I built mine, the only issues I had was with removing the turnets, and gluing on the canopy. Other than that my Bockscar looks great as well.

 

  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: Parsons Kansas
Posted by Hodakamax on Sunday, December 11, 2016 9:42 AM

Today I was reading some back posts on the Forum and re-read this one. I was about to put my Dayton USAF pictures away and thought I should contribute to this post with a shot of the real thing. My wife didn't want to be in the ordnance picture (something about her hair I think,lol.)  so I blurred her image to make her happy. The Fat Man is a replica but the Little Boy was real (less Uranium!) and had been stocked in the new nuclear arsenal at the time. Interesting stuff and a cool model, good work!  Smile

Max

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