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The Sky Samurai (1/48 Hasegawa A6M2 21 Zero)

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  • Member since
    August 2012
Posted by Winetanker on Friday, August 24, 2012 10:07 PM

Nice Build, lawdog....

Just re-read Samurai this summer. I had no idea there were so many P-39's in Port Moresby.

....working my way up the airbrush learning curve......

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Friday, August 10, 2012 11:18 PM

Thanks!  I'll try to find it on my camera.  its a fancy one so I'm sure this option is in there somewhere.

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Friday, August 10, 2012 7:27 PM

Dunno how standard the icons are but an 2 cameras I have this is the icon for setting the white balance.  the whiter the background piece you use to set it the better.  And of course.... do it with the light source you are about to take your pics with.

Marc  

  • Member since
    May 2012
  • From: Milford, Ohio
Posted by Old Ordie on Friday, August 10, 2012 5:59 PM

Joe,

Yeah, the most recent photos look in between to me (but more green, less tan), and real, real good.  I'm gonna get me some of that paint for some of my (ta-da!) upcoming IJN builds.  Thanks!

wing_nut - I gotta find that white balance thing on my camera.  Thanks for the tip!

Flight deck:  Hasegawa 1:48 P-40E; Tamiya 1:48 A6M2 N Type 2 ('Rufe')

Elevators:  Airfix 1:72 Grumman Duck; AM 1:72 F-4J

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Wednesday, August 8, 2012 7:16 AM

That color shift in the plane is likely due to using the AUTO setting for the color balance. Essentially each of these situations has just 2 colors.  The background and the plane.  The camera computer is trying to come up with a balanced image based on what the chip is programmed for “normal”.  The one with the white background has less to “shift” the blue one does.  It is also why in many cases the pics taken with the workbench background look better since there is a lots of different colors in the shot so when that averaging is done is will shift any one single color less.

Try setting the color balance to match the light source.  Many cameras have a choice to set the “white balance” manually.  It involves taking white background, pointing the camera at it so it fills the field of view and pressing a button.  This will white balance for whatever light source you are using and can be used no matter what the background color is without worrying about color shifts.

And sorry for not saying this 1st… but nice looking Zero.

Marc  

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Tuesday, August 7, 2012 10:56 PM

Thanks for the compliment Mark! You raise a good question.  The top photo is with a light blue poster board background and the lower is with a white one.  As I said, I was experimenting with my wife's camera and I have no really working knowledge of how photography works.  Aperture....shutter speed,,...yadda...yadda....blah....blah..  I just decided to play around and see what looked the best to my eye.  I used macro mode with these which supposedly makes the detail pop out.   One think I did notice was that the posterboard reduced the glare on the wings, which I find appealing.  I'm leaning towards the white background for future builds.  These pics are without the posterboard background. 

Joe

    

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2012
  • From: Milford, Ohio
Posted by Old Ordie on Tuesday, August 7, 2012 2:45 PM

Joe,

Another great build, and a nice presentation as well.  A fine tribute to a true sky warrior.

I have a question about the xf-76 paint:  Which shade do you think best represents the actual color to the eye, in natural light, real time:  the top one below (looks more tan to me), or the bottom one (looks more green ...)?  I know what lighting can do to color in a photo, which is why I'm asking.

Flight deck:  Hasegawa 1:48 P-40E; Tamiya 1:48 A6M2 N Type 2 ('Rufe')

Elevators:  Airfix 1:72 Grumman Duck; AM 1:72 F-4J

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Tuesday, August 7, 2012 12:32 AM

Looks real good, Joe,

The painting on the figure looks fine, but I see what you mean about the softness of the features.  Except for the uniform he might be taken for a Tuskegee Airman.

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html

 

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Tuesday, August 7, 2012 12:14 AM

Hello all...I'm finally done!  Have you ever had one of those kits that in theory should be a piece of cake...but challenged you from start to finish;  whether it be the kit's fault or just your own ineptness?  Well,  this one tried my patience and often.  First the warpage in the wing and fuselage, then the wing walk decals, the latter being minor but still annoying. I eventually had the plane completely assembled and commenced to do some minor post shading and weathering before display.  Just as I was congratulating myself, the plane slipped out of my hand and crashed onto the desk.  The cowl, engine, fuel tank, and all canopies pieces came off.  The starboard landing gear and antenna post also snapped off.  Angry did not even describe it Angry.  After a few deep breaths, and a game of Madden 12 (to prime myself for the upcoming 13), I reconvened at the desk.  Fortunately I was able to fix it and for all intents and purposes, you can't tell it happened.  Gorilla Glue took care of the gear and as good fortune would dictate, I had learned that Sakai's zero did not have an arial wire, so the post was apparently sawed off at the rear canopy.  I followed suit. 

The figure is from the Hasegawa pilot set, which comes with American, British, Japanese and German pilots.  I'm not impressed with the detail on these, which is soft.  In my opinion, I wouldn't waste your money and just use figures from Monogram or ICM kits which are much better.   I have no experience with other brands, such as Verlinden or Legend.  I'm a particularly lousy figure painter but I like to add them for a sense of scale.  For those who are curious, I use brush painted Tamiya Acrylics and enamel Model Master Dark Skin Tone (i think thats what its called) for the flesh areas.  After a drybrushing with lighter versions of the original color on the clothing, its then sealed with a clear coat and washed to bring out the detail.  The base is real dirt glued down with Elmer's glue.  The grass is a scenic railroad  product which I airbrushed to make it appear dried out from the Pacific climate. 

I have been experimenting with my wife's camera in Macro mode.  It should also be noted photography is not one of my talents.  With some advice I've read, I decided to try using a background other than my work bench.  Some of the pics are with a white posterboard, others with a light blue one.  They both look ok to me and I cannot decide which looks better.  The blue came out almost grey.  Opinions are welcome.  Here she is...

Joe

  

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2012
  • From: Milford, Ohio
Posted by Old Ordie on Saturday, July 28, 2012 1:50 PM

pzl66

Joe I wish my models looked as good as the way this Zero is sitting there! ...

Ditto (aka "ditto" ...)

Joe,

The Zero is looking great! 

I'm painting some wheels later today, so you're tip is right on time.  I was going to try my hand at cutting some perfect circles out of masking tape, but I wasn't looking forward to it.  Now, I don't have to ... and I just happen to have a bottle of Floquil Grimy Black on hand.  Thanks!

Smile

Flight deck:  Hasegawa 1:48 P-40E; Tamiya 1:48 A6M2 N Type 2 ('Rufe')

Elevators:  Airfix 1:72 Grumman Duck; AM 1:72 F-4J

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Saturday, July 28, 2012 12:25 AM

Cadet Chuck

Lawdog114:  390th BG?  Then you must be familiar with the 390th BG Memorial Museum in Tucson.  I am a member and send them a contribution every year.  I learned about them when I took a ride in the B-17 Liberty Belle in Georgia back in 2006. Quite a wonderful experience!

Chuck

Hey Chuck, I am familiar with the 390th museum.  Unfortunately I live in a suburb of Cleveland, Ohio, otherwise, I would go there often.  As I said, my grandfather was a turret gunner in the 570th.  I built an almost exact replica of the plane he was shot down in and their web site was instrumental in my research.  I typed in his name and received a plethora of information about his combat history.  They actually had pictures of the nose art in their gallery section which I used to have decals made.  Its Funny, I offered to build them a J group B-17 free of charge to display but they turned me down. The lady was kind of rude about it too....oh well. 

Joe

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Friday, July 27, 2012 11:19 PM

Lawdog114:  390th BG?  Then you must be familiar with the 390th BG Memorial Museum in Tucson.  I am a member and send them a contribution every year.  I learned about them when I took a ride in the B-17 Liberty Belle in Georgia back in 2006. Quite a wonderful experience!

Chuck

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Friday, July 27, 2012 10:30 PM

 

 

 

pzl66

Also what glue are you using to secure the canopy to the fuselage?

Thanks for the compliment!..  I normally use Testers clear parts cement in the goofy looking triangular bottle.  I sometimes use good old Elmer's Glue too.   

 

 

 

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2011
  • From: AZ
Posted by Luft Modeler on Friday, July 27, 2012 8:11 PM

Joe I wish my models looked as good as the way this Zero is sitting there! Again keep up with the great work! Also what glue are you using to secure the canopy to the fuselage?

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Friday, July 27, 2012 8:02 PM

Well, I'm in the home stretch now.  I painted the blue stripes and must say I'm happy with the way they turned out.  The Fuselage stripe was kind of a pain in the Censored to get the angle right when compared to the decal reference sheet, which was further complicated by me trying to make sure the upper and lower angles were centered.  Kudos to Tamiya tape...no bleeding.  The wing walk boxes continue to haunt me.  During fuselage stripe taping, I accidentally caught a piece of the tape on the starboard front strip and it tore a chunk out Bang Head.  So I scraped the rest off the front on both sides.  I may end up ripping up the rest and painting them in after all.   The panel lines were then washed with Windsor Newton acrylics.  I'm more partial to water based washes because there is room for error.   I just finished the landing gear.  I decided to use the kit wheels instead of the TD set.  The TD example just seemed a bit small and out of scale to my eye.  My method for painting wheels is fairly painless and if you hate doing this, try this technique:

1.  Prime the wheels then spray the hub the appropriate color for that plane (silver, black, whatever..)

2.  Purchase a dark grey enamel that will simulate real rubber.  Make sure it is enamel so it will be compatible with mineral spirits as you will see shortly.  I use Floquil Grimy Black which is a nice dark grey. 

3.  Use a plastic paint palette with the concave dimples (Hobby Lobby sells them cheap) and put some of the aforementioned  mineral spirits in one dimple (lack of better terms?) and the black paint in another.  

4.  Take a fine pointed paint brush of your choice with some spirits and touch the rim on the wheels side.  Capillary action will carry the fluid around the rim.  You may have to repeat this.  Make sure its mineral c, anything stronger, such as lacquer thinner, may eat into the paint on the rim.  Ask me how I know this...

5.  Then dip it in the black which will then carry around the color in the already present spirits.  Again, you may need to doing this a few times to build up the color.  You now have a good starting point to bring the paint out to the rest of the tire and if you be patient, the result is a perfect rim.  I suppose you could use any enamel, but I  Floquil Grimy Black because it goes on nice smooth and there are no brush marks when dry.  I usually slightly thin it with the spirits but this is not necessary

6. For weathering, I take some diluted Tamiya Buff, crank down the air pressure to about 5 psi, then spray the treads to simuluate wear, dirt and dust .  Some people dry brush this with neutral grey or such, but I prefer this method.    

This techinque is easier than it sounds.  I want to say I read about a similar  technique years ago in FSM where someone was painting tank wheels and I have been using it ever since, of course modified to fit my needs. 

There ya have it, use freely and I hope it will help people who loath painting wheels (I happen to dread canopy taping...)

Joe

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Gothenburg
Posted by JohanT on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 8:45 AM

Well, that did set the scene allright :)

Awesome work on that cockpit and engine!
The pre shading looks very convincing too. 

They have the cockpit section of a Zero on display in the IWM London.

IRL it is so petite it is plain obvious that I could never get my 183cm 110Kg in there.

I wonder if I still have that photo around somewhere...

Thank you for sharing and please keep us up to date with your progress.

Very Best Regards

Johan

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 7:59 AM

Great looking work!

You might try a light misting of your base colour over the decals to fade them down a little.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    December 2011
  • From: AZ
Posted by Luft Modeler on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 4:00 AM

Keep up the work man, looks great!!

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 2:37 AM

Hello all, the Berna decals finally showed up and I got the zero decaled.  These are fantastic and only needed a soak in Micro Sol to snuggle right down.  Highly recommended!  The only gripe I had was the lack of the red wing walk box decals.  They supplied everything else, why not these?  I was forced to use the kit decals for these and they laughed at Micro Sol.  I then tried the stronger Mr. Mark Setting solution which completely melted the decal into a pile of goo.  I was forced to substitute an old set from a Tamiya Zero I had on hand....in hindsight, I should have just painted these on like I did on my P-61 Bang Head.  Reference the Hinomarus markings (meatballs), are they supposed to be this bright of a red?  I'm gonna have to find a way to tone them down.  I decided I'm going to paint in the blue fuselage and tail stripe in lieu of the decals.  I'm thinking Tamiya flat blue with a bit of white would be suffice.  

Joe

    

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Utereg
Posted by Borg R3-MC0 on Saturday, July 21, 2012 1:35 PM
Fabulous build, I really like the cockpit, the shading etc etc!

  • Member since
    May 2012
  • From: Milford, Ohio
Posted by Old Ordie on Friday, July 20, 2012 12:23 PM

Joe,

The XF-76 looks great.  Very nice shade.  Your Aotake looks great, too.  Can't wait to see it complete.

Ord

Flight deck:  Hasegawa 1:48 P-40E; Tamiya 1:48 A6M2 N Type 2 ('Rufe')

Elevators:  Airfix 1:72 Grumman Duck; AM 1:72 F-4J

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Democratic Peoples Republic of Illinois
Posted by Hercmech on Friday, July 20, 2012 10:00 AM

Awesome paint work!


13151015

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Barrie, Ontario
Posted by Cdn Colin on Friday, July 20, 2012 8:11 AM

I build 1/48 scale WW2 fighters.

Have fun.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Friday, July 20, 2012 7:32 AM

Looks pretty darn near perfect to me!

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

GAF
  • Member since
    June 2012
  • From: Anniston, AL
Posted by GAF on Thursday, July 19, 2012 10:25 PM

よく成された仕事. (yoku nasa reta shigoto)

This looks like it will be a good one.

Gary

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Thursday, July 19, 2012 9:19 PM

Hello...heres a little update.  I got her painted and clearcoated.  Now I'm just waiting for the Berna decals to arrive which should be anyday now.  Sometimes E-bay can be slow.  For paint, I went with Tamiya XF-76 Grey Green which is supposed to be the last word in "Ame-Hiro" (key word supposed).  I sprayed it on and it looks pretty good to my eye, I then added some white and did my normal streakng on the wings and changed the hue of the control surfaces by altering the ratio.  On a side note, the guy at my LHS talked me in to trying Tamiya "Lacquer Thinner" with Tamiya paints in lieu of my normal 91 Iso Alcohol.  He said I would be so happy with the results I would return specifically to thank him.  Well...it did spray nice and smooth, dried quick and it seemed to have more "bite".  It also left a slight sheen which is something I'm not used to with Tamiya XF paints.  The down side is that it smells like Tamiya's Extra thin cement and costs 9 bones a bottle.   Anyways, I mixed flat black and flat blue and came up with my own version of Mitsubishi cowl color.  I also made a custom mix of clear blue and green over aluminum for the Aotake coating in the wheel wells.  I may redo this since this isn't exactly the look I was going for.  I wanted it to be more translucent.   

I'm attempting to get away from Future on my clear coats for reasons I've explained elsewhere and I have been experimenting.  While at the LHS on the same trip outlined above, I saw that Alclad had a clear gloss coat available.  I decided to get it.  I must say, so far I'm pleased and it has dried to a rock hard smooth finish in a matter of a few hours.  The down side is that it smells like lighter fluid and costs 9 bones (18 bones out the window...just like thatDunce.  I figure I'll use these sparingly for decaling and stick with Testors Gloss for other stuff, such as barriers between washes.   Heres where I'm at so far

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Democratic Peoples Republic of Illinois
Posted by Hercmech on Monday, July 16, 2012 9:16 AM

She is coming along very nice!


13151015

  • Member since
    May 2012
  • From: Milford, Ohio
Posted by Old Ordie on Sunday, July 15, 2012 11:57 PM

Looks to me like you've whipped it into shape ... it's looking real good to me.

Flight deck:  Hasegawa 1:48 P-40E; Tamiya 1:48 A6M2 N Type 2 ('Rufe')

Elevators:  Airfix 1:72 Grumman Duck; AM 1:72 F-4J

  • Member since
    December 2011
  • From: AZ
Posted by Luft Modeler on Sunday, July 15, 2012 11:46 PM

Im sure it will turn out great, I have seen your skill in two of my GB! The Emporer demands high quality, nothing less from a samurai! Lol.

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