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Here's the AN/AAQ-13 LANTIRN pod and the adapter for the AN/AAQ-33 SNIPER XR pod attached using CA glue. I've also painted Mr. Surfacer around the mating area to fill any gaps:
I'm going to paint the SNIPER XR pod separately and attach it at the end.
[URL=http://picasion.com/]
I cut off the kit's horizontal stabilators by scoring them with the back side of an Xacto blade. I've replaced them with new stabs by Quickboost:
The detail is almost identical but now the stabs can be placed in a drooped position. It wouldn't make much sense to have the ailerons drooped and not the stabs. But scoring off the stabs left some large gashes in the side of the plane where they were removed. So I used a generous amount of gap filling CA glue to fill them back in. Then I carefully measured each side so that I would drill the holes for the stabs in the same spot on each side: In the pic above you can see the resin part that fills the space in between the engines.
The detail is almost identical but now the stabs can be placed in a drooped position. It wouldn't make much sense to have the ailerons drooped and not the stabs.
But scoring off the stabs left some large gashes in the side of the plane where they were removed. So I used a generous amount of gap filling CA glue to fill them back in. Then I carefully measured each side so that I would drill the holes for the stabs in the same spot on each side:
In the pic above you can see the resin part that fills the space in between the engines.
Here are the Royal resin weighted wheels. I'm sorry but I didn't take a pic of the wheels before they were painted.
Here they are with Mr. Color Tire Black. I also sprayed some lighter grey on the treads to make them look a bit dirty:
And here they are with the wheels painted white and washed with Citadel Nuln Oil:
The landing gear are mostly done. They are very simple on this plane. Here I've glued the landing gear together (there are 3 parts to each main gear) and loosely attached them to the fuselage. This way the parts will dry in the correct position:
The nose gear brace has some holes "molded" into it for detail. I decided to drill these out with my pin vise and a small bit: Looks better: I cut out some circles from Tamiya masking tape to match the landing light lenses: I mentioned in an earlier thread that I planned to add some hydraulic lines to the gear. I've also added a few styrene details. Here they are: Note the resin shimmy dampener on the nose gear: Here they are with the initial paint:
The nose gear brace has some holes "molded" into it for detail. I decided to drill these out with my pin vise and a small bit:
Looks better: I cut out some circles from Tamiya masking tape to match the landing light lenses: I mentioned in an earlier thread that I planned to add some hydraulic lines to the gear. I've also added a few styrene details. Here they are: Note the resin shimmy dampener on the nose gear: Here they are with the initial paint:
Looks better:
I cut out some circles from Tamiya masking tape to match the landing light lenses: I mentioned in an earlier thread that I planned to add some hydraulic lines to the gear. I've also added a few styrene details. Here they are: Note the resin shimmy dampener on the nose gear: Here they are with the initial paint:
I cut out some circles from Tamiya masking tape to match the landing light lenses:
I mentioned in an earlier thread that I planned to add some hydraulic lines to the gear. I've also added a few styrene details. Here they are: Note the resin shimmy dampener on the nose gear: Here they are with the initial paint:
I mentioned in an earlier thread that I planned to add some hydraulic lines to the gear. I've also added a few styrene details. Here they are:
Note the resin shimmy dampener on the nose gear: Here they are with the initial paint:
Note the resin shimmy dampener on the nose gear:
Here they are with the initial paint:
Here's a shot of the decal sheet I'll be using. They are the Mountain Home Gunfighters by Afterburner:
Thanks Dean!
I haven't seen alot of F-15Es that were dirty per se, but I have seen many photos with streaks running back on the wings, flaps and ailerons. I've also seen many that had discolored or faded panels or chipped paint on certain leading edges. And I've seen many that had plain old faded paint.
I'll be trying to create a balance between good weathering and a realistic effect. My goal is that I want to look at it and think "Wow, that thing has seen some action over Afghanistan!"
Plus, there are some weathering techniques that I will be using for the first time on this build.
This is so well done so far I can't wait to see it finished, the only place on an F-15 I have ever seen accumulate any amount of dirt was on the belly behind the main landing gear.
Thanks again Eagle...I'll try not to let you down!
I've added the Steel Beach reinforcement plates on the vertical stabs. Now, not all F-15Es had these installed at the same time and some still don't have them I believe:
You can see also that I have attached the ECM antennas: In this pic above you can see where I had to use Mr. Surfacer to sort of build up the wing where the two wing parts met up. There was an ever so slight step at the joint. After it was done I re scribed the panel lines that were filled in. When its all said and done I'll be taking a little bit of artistic liberty with this build. I'll be adding weathering and some details that may not have existed on this particular F-15E from Mountain Home. What I'm going to do is take different images of different F-15Es and use elements from different planes that I think will make for good detailing and weathering...like certain panels that have been replaced or streaks on a particularly dirty plane that look more interesting. So it will be realistic but not completely accurate. In any event no two airframes are exactly alike.
You can see also that I have attached the ECM antennas:
In this pic above you can see where I had to use Mr. Surfacer to sort of build up the wing where the two wing parts met up. There was an ever so slight step at the joint. After it was done I re scribed the panel lines that were filled in. When its all said and done I'll be taking a little bit of artistic liberty with this build. I'll be adding weathering and some details that may not have existed on this particular F-15E from Mountain Home. What I'm going to do is take different images of different F-15Es and use elements from different planes that I think will make for good detailing and weathering...like certain panels that have been replaced or streaks on a particularly dirty plane that look more interesting. So it will be realistic but not completely accurate. In any event no two airframes are exactly alike.
In this pic above you can see where I had to use Mr. Surfacer to sort of build up the wing where the two wing parts met up. There was an ever so slight step at the joint. After it was done I re scribed the panel lines that were filled in.
When its all said and done I'll be taking a little bit of artistic liberty with this build. I'll be adding weathering and some details that may not have existed on this particular F-15E from Mountain Home. What I'm going to do is take different images of different F-15Es and use elements from different planes that I think will make for good detailing and weathering...like certain panels that have been replaced or streaks on a particularly dirty plane that look more interesting. So it will be realistic but not completely accurate.
In any event no two airframes are exactly alike.
You know, every time you post pics, I get all sentimental about my Eagle! She is a great plane and you are doing a great job! I'm really enjoying this thread...THANKS!
Eagle90
Eagle & Dean, Thanks!
I mentioned earlier that I wanted to build up my F-15E as an OEF (Operation Enduring Freedom) or OIF (Operation Iraqi Freedom) airframe. In order to do this I needed to get some updated parts.
I got the OIF resin update set from Wolfpack. It includes AN/AAQ-33 SNIPER XR pod, GPS antenna, ECM antennas and the blade antennas that are different from the earlier models. Not all OIF/OEF planes carried the SNIPER pod, FYI. It also includes an AN/AAQ-13 LANTIRN pod that replaces the kits pod although the replacement part isn't really better or worse than the kit part. The kit part does hang noticeably lower, though. Some other stuff: The set includes the ADU-552 and LAU-128 launchers so that you can hang AIM-120 AMRAAMs on them. And it includes a shimmy dampener for the nose wheel. And finally it includes a part that adds the missing detail from the rear of the plane between the engines. So I had the cut off the kits ECM antennas to make room for the resin parts: The pylons needed a little bit of work. Since you don't use the kit's adapters you need to fill in one of the alignment holes. Plus, there's an ejection pin mark that needs to be filled. I used Apoxie Sculpt to fill the holes and attached the adapter with CA glue:
I got the OIF resin update set from Wolfpack. It includes AN/AAQ-33 SNIPER XR pod, GPS antenna, ECM antennas and the blade antennas that are different from the earlier models. Not all OIF/OEF planes carried the SNIPER pod, FYI. It also includes an AN/AAQ-13 LANTIRN pod that replaces the kits pod although the replacement part isn't really better or worse than the kit part. The kit part does hang noticeably lower, though.
Some other stuff: The set includes the ADU-552 and LAU-128 launchers so that you can hang AIM-120 AMRAAMs on them. And it includes a shimmy dampener for the nose wheel. And finally it includes a part that adds the missing detail from the rear of the plane between the engines.
So I had the cut off the kits ECM antennas to make room for the resin parts:
The pylons needed a little bit of work. Since you don't use the kit's adapters you need to fill in one of the alignment holes. Plus, there's an ejection pin mark that needs to be filled. I used Apoxie Sculpt to fill the holes and attached the adapter with CA glue:
Now that's a good looking model so far! I have had the opportunity to buy this kit many times but never did, sort of regret it now! Looking forward to see how this turns out.
Fly-n-hi, you are doing the Eagle proud! Great work! Thanks again for posting your progress! Great thread!
riptide i just finished mine, different weapons but same bad ass plane..:0)
i just finished mine, different weapons but same bad ass plane..:0)
Here I've attached the ailerons, intake ramps and conformal fuel tanks. I used Mr. Surfacer to fill some of the gaps along the seam. You can see that the ailerons are in the drooped position which happens when there is no hydraulic pressure to hold them up:
I've also attached the long weapons pylons that hang underneath the CFTs: You can also see in both pics where I used Mr. Surfacer to fill in the seam where the nose section joins the fuselage. In fact, I deliberately waited to install the intake ramps until after I dealt with this seam because once you attach the ramps it becomes much more difficult to reach this seam. You can't see it in the pics but there are some fairly large gaps between the intake ramps and the fuselage part that need to be filled. I'll be using Aves Apoxie Sculpt to fill them. Stay tuned for scenes from our next episode...
I've also attached the long weapons pylons that hang underneath the CFTs:
You can also see in both pics where I used Mr. Surfacer to fill in the seam where the nose section joins the fuselage. In fact, I deliberately waited to install the intake ramps until after I dealt with this seam because once you attach the ramps it becomes much more difficult to reach this seam. You can't see it in the pics but there are some fairly large gaps between the intake ramps and the fuselage part that need to be filled. I'll be using Aves Apoxie Sculpt to fill them. Stay tuned for scenes from our next episode...
You can also see in both pics where I used Mr. Surfacer to fill in the seam where the nose section joins the fuselage. In fact, I deliberately waited to install the intake ramps until after I dealt with this seam because once you attach the ramps it becomes much more difficult to reach this seam.
You can't see it in the pics but there are some fairly large gaps between the intake ramps and the fuselage part that need to be filled. I'll be using Aves Apoxie Sculpt to fill them.
Stay tuned for scenes from our next episode...
Thanks guys!
NathanT, I just painted the cans Alclad II jet exhaust and dry brushed some silver on top of that.
Here's a small update. I've attached the vertical stabilizers and filled the seams with Mr. Surfacer. I think it will be better to attach them now instead of painting them and then attaching them at the end. Otherwise I won't really be able to eliminate the seams. I saw one of these Revell F-15E's at the last model contest I was in and the guy painted the vertical stabs separate and then attached them afterwards. The seams were fairly obvious and I remember thinking that I wouldn't do that if I ever built one.
I've also attached the speed brake in the retracted position. The fit was surprisingly good!
The canopy and windscreen are just loosely attached so that I could see how they'd look on the plane. Stay tuned...
The canopy and windscreen are just loosely attached so that I could see how they'd look on the plane.
Stay tuned...
Sweet stuff. What metallic colors did you use on the exhaust? It looks so realistic.
looking really good there Fly n high, the seats look awesome.
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
Thanks Jester and Jsmyth!
Here's the nose section glued to the fuselage. Starting to look like an F-15 now!
For the most part the large parts went together fairly well. The intakes fit with no problems. The areas that needed the most work were the seams where the upper and lower fuselage halves met at the tail just ahead of the horizontal stabs. Also, the seam where the nose section meets the fuselage needed to be filled and sanded...but it wasn't very difficult. Just be careful and slow when you join these two parts. Here's a view of the bottom. The nose gear door and the back wall of the wheel well are molded as one piece and must be installed before glueing the two nose halves together. You may notice that I cut the gear door off so that I can attach it separately: I've also attached the outer wing parts as you can see. These required just a little filling. Here's a look at the O2 hoses in the cockpit. After looking at pictures of the real thing I added an additional line made of wire and created some clamps out of foil tape. I painted them OD and dry brushed some grey on them: And just so you all know...the white part of the intake in the real plane starts about 6 feet back in the intake. On mine the white starts immediately. Oops. I'm not gonna try to fix it but now you can learn from my mistake. To be continued...
For the most part the large parts went together fairly well. The intakes fit with no problems. The areas that needed the most work were the seams where the upper and lower fuselage halves met at the tail just ahead of the horizontal stabs. Also, the seam where the nose section meets the fuselage needed to be filled and sanded...but it wasn't very difficult. Just be careful and slow when you join these two parts.
Here's a view of the bottom. The nose gear door and the back wall of the wheel well are molded as one piece and must be installed before glueing the two nose halves together. You may notice that I cut the gear door off so that I can attach it separately:
I've also attached the outer wing parts as you can see. These required just a little filling. Here's a look at the O2 hoses in the cockpit. After looking at pictures of the real thing I added an additional line made of wire and created some clamps out of foil tape. I painted them OD and dry brushed some grey on them: And just so you all know...the white part of the intake in the real plane starts about 6 feet back in the intake. On mine the white starts immediately. Oops. I'm not gonna try to fix it but now you can learn from my mistake. To be continued...
I've also attached the outer wing parts as you can see. These required just a little filling.
Here's a look at the O2 hoses in the cockpit. After looking at pictures of the real thing I added an additional line made of wire and created some clamps out of foil tape. I painted them OD and dry brushed some grey on them:
And just so you all know...the white part of the intake in the real plane starts about 6 feet back in the intake. On mine the white starts immediately. Oops. I'm not gonna try to fix it but now you can learn from my mistake. To be continued...
And just so you all know...the white part of the intake in the real plane starts about 6 feet back in the intake. On mine the white starts immediately. Oops. I'm not gonna try to fix it but now you can learn from my mistake.
To be continued...
Great Job!!! I love the shading on the turbines. Keep posting pics so we all can follow.
This has been a really enjoyable wip to watch so far Fly, excellent work on those burners!
Eric
Here's an update to the Mud Hen:
I mentioned earlier that I bought the Quickboost resin ejection seats. The kit seats, like the cockpit, are actually very nice. But the Quickboost seats are even nicer. And I figure since the canopy will be posed open, and since the seats really tend to draw the eyes, it would be worth it to have a little extra detail.
Here they are with just a coat of black paint:
Here they are detailed using the Games Workshop Citadel brand of paint: These seats sit much lower in the cockpit than the kit parts so I'm going to have to add something to make them sit at the correct hight. I might just cut off the parts on the kit seats and use those.
Here they are detailed using the Games Workshop Citadel brand of paint:
These seats sit much lower in the cockpit than the kit parts so I'm going to have to add something to make them sit at the correct hight. I might just cut off the parts on the kit seats and use those.
Thanks Plastic!
Now we're getting somewhere. Here I've installed the intakes to the lower fuselage and glued the two fuselage halves together. I didn't really take that many pics of it because its not really anything out of the ordinary. But I did get pics of the anti collision lights.
What I did here was to file out the molded in anti collision lights and insert a piece of clear sprue:
Here's a pic that shows both of them: Here's a pic that shows how they look after the clear red is applied. I'm sorry for the blurry pic. I am trying to hold the model up to the light and work the camera at the same time. You get the idea at least: It will show up better in later pics.
Here's a pic that shows both of them:
Here's a pic that shows how they look after the clear red is applied. I'm sorry for the blurry pic. I am trying to hold the model up to the light and work the camera at the same time. You get the idea at least: It will show up better in later pics.
Here's a pic that shows how they look after the clear red is applied. I'm sorry for the blurry pic. I am trying to hold the model up to the light and work the camera at the same time. You get the idea at least:
It will show up better in later pics.
I think you nailed that burnt look.
plasticjunkie Excellent job on the cans. What colors did you use to get such realistic burnt metallic shades?
Excellent job on the cans. What colors did you use to get such realistic burnt metallic shades?
The inner base color is just Tamiya White with a few drops of brown mixed in to give in a sort of beige color. The dark streaks at the flame holder end are Alclad II jet exhaust. The weathering and dirty burnt looking areas inside the petals are a combination of Tamiya weathering compounds...soot, oil and metallic blue brushed in with the applicator that comes with the compounds.
I just looked at photos of the real exhaust to see where the dirty spots were and tried to copy what I saw.
I finished the burner cans. Here they are painted and weathered:
Not bad for OOB. AM resin would be better, of course, but these have great detail and I'm not sure that spending $15 or $20 would be worth it.
This kit is really a gem. You've got a killer build going. Looking forward to seeing more of it.
plasticjunkie...I will be looking at yours for inspiration.
Thanks! But maybe you should wait and see how it turns out before you say that
Flynhi
Mighty fine work going on there! I can pick up the current re-issue at HL but decided to get the Pro-Modeler one on Ebay which is the same kit when released back in 2000 with the exception of having a full load of armaments like the Aim 120's and GBU's that the re-issue does not have. I will be looking at yours for inspiration.
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