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On the bench: Between Builds...
T3chDad I never saw the box art until now lol, I wondered what you meant when you said about the box I didn't know there were kits of computer game aircraft. I really like this build it's looking great, I think you should try a 1/48 scale Flanker if this is what you do with 1/72, it would probably turn out great, if you do, come along to the Big Russian Jet GB it's basically been an ongoing thing now and everyone is invited to post on it.
Dean30....I didn't know there were kits of computer game aircraft.
Check it out: Ace Combad Models
How many times can I mess up these engines? I just can't get it right. After another failed attempt yesterday, I stripped it down to the plastic and put a new finish of MM metalizer on them. This stuff is incredible. I love it. Now if I can just get the stuff that goes over it right... I also broke the cans off so I can work on them more easily (yet another lesson-learned).
I guess the fifth time was the charm. I finally ended-up with some fairly good results that I can live with!
Here we have the starting point. MM Metalizer Aluminum buffed to a nice shine.
After a couple of hours with some Tamiya weathering makeup...and then clear coat to protect my hard work.
Next Up: NOW maybe I can get to the decals...stay tuned!
5th time was the charm indeed! Those panels look great- I really like the discoloration and staining- you did all that with weathering powders??
All with the Tamiya weathering powders.
I followed up this awesome triumph by pretty much ruining the model and all my hard work. I was trying to put the red box decals around the panels on the top. I placed them wrong and it was too late to move them so I tried to remove them...bad idea. Now I have two roughly 1" squares on the top of the model where I had to strip it to the plastic. I don't know if I can recover from this one...but will try.
Sorry to hear about the decals, but the engine panels are top-shelf.
Someone once posted a method for removing decals by basically rewetting them again and again until they lift off... but once they're sealed in, no way. I don't know if they'd be reusable, but I kind of doubt it.
Could you do an area respray to mimic some sort of maintenance/repair effort?
Post a pic of what went wrong and the problem could be solved if you're stuck, even post it in a new thread asking for help you'll get suggestions surely.
Not so much stuck as angry/frustrated. Anyway, I'm back on the path and fixing the screw-up.
If I had just let the decals dry, I could have just sanded them off....but I panicked. Bare plastic because I tried to use nail polish remover....I'm such a dumbass.
Rescribed/etched and ready for primer...
Primed and leveled...
Masked and ready for paint...
Base color applied...
Next Up: I'll be redoing the camo in a little while...with more pics to follow.
Man that sucks about the paint getting screwed up! It was looking fantastic! But I like the fact that you're attempting to repair the damage. I think it will pay off in the end.
For future reference...If you place a decal in the wrong spot you can apply some water on top of it, let it soften and move it around. Keep applying fresh water and very gently start working the bristles of a fine brush under the decal. Be gentle and don't force it! THIS WORKS! I've done it myself several times...even with decals that have dried for a few days.
Now, I don't typically use Future as a gloss coat so I can't say for sure how the decals will interact with the Future. I suppose that could be a deal breaker but I don't know. In this case Windex might be a better choice.
Good luck!
[URL=http://picasion.com/]
Thanks for the tips Fly-n-hi.
It sucks to be an OCD, anal-retentive perfectionist. I'm not happy with the results of the repairs whatsoever. I'm going to mask the engines and strip the entire top and forward fuse camo down to the primer or plastic and do it all over. It shouldn't be that bad as I already have all of the camo template images for my vinyl cutter to simply cut and stick-on. I hope it will go much faster the second time around. I've also ordered another kit and a replacement decal sheet.
Talk about lessons-learned.
I decided not to strip the whole thing. I'm revisiting the repair of the two areas. Basically, I've sanded it all down until there are no ridges/bumps/etc. from the previous coats. I then shot a very fine coat of the the base light gray color to make sure it was all smooth. Now I've got some serious re-scribing to do before I hit it with the base color again before the two other camo colors. I think it will turn out this time...
I'm sure that you'll get what you're striving for out of this model- keep digging.
Looks good so far, when placing decals I always leave a pool of water or decal fix where the decal is going to go, I always place the decal on the model then move it into position afterwards. Then I use cotton buds to remove the water so the decal sets.
It's looking better this time around. I have finished all of the sanding down, re-etching the panel lines and rivets and base coat of the light gray. I'll do the camo tomorrow. I'm glad I didn't strip it down in a fit of disgust and frustration.
The fix is looking god so far. I know for me when I screw up a build sometimes its best if I just set the model down and take a break from it for a while. Although it looks like whatever you're doing is working fine.
Fix is done! I'm very happy with the results.
Here she is right after the camo painting.
...and after the gloss-wash-gloss...
I think I'll work on the armament next...
That's a great save mate looks great!
Heck yea! Great save.
What are you masking with? Once looked like paper towel, that last mask made with packaging material?
In the previous pictures I used a variety of masking material (pictured below). Yes, in one it was a paper towel with some blue 3M Edge-Lock tape. I also use the yellow Tamiya 6mm tape. Lastly, I use transfer paper that is typically for use with vinyl cutter lettering/design.
In this case, I used the vinyl cutter to cut out all of the camo shapes at once on the transfer paper and used that for the mask. The transfer paper is low-tack and works great for large masking jobs. It's really nice to be able to take a scanned image of the scheme and make all the masking in a matter of minutes.
Beautiful recovery, dude. I'd love to see more of your work.
In the future, would you be open to cutting a splinter mask (or two) in 1/32?? I'd pay for it!
Dre Beautiful recovery, dude. I'd love to see more of your work. In the future, would you be open to cutting a splinter mask (or two) in 1/32?? I'd pay for it!
Thanks! I'm sure we can work something out with the masking.
Cool!
Small update. The armament and the pylons are done.
That only leaves the decals and flat coat.
Almost there. Cant wait to see the finished bird.
No bucks, no Buck Rogers
I cannot catch a break....from being a dumb-ass.
You know the two big red square panel decals? The ones I messed up the bird with the first time? I was wondering why they didn't seem to fit properly...a little long in one dimension and a little short in the other. Surely Hasegawa was better with getting the decals right than this!? They are. I put the decals on backwards and rotated. I didn't notice until after wash-touch-up and gloss. Oh well...let's let it be our little secret.
This proves the point how we humans go into things with preconceptions...
You're never gonna notice, I put the red walkways back to front on my mirage 2000. It was way too late to correct, and to be honest it's not that obvious.
Those red warning decals are a PITA, no matter what.
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