Enter keywords or a search phrase below:
To GMorrison,
You sir, have a wealth of knowledge! I hope someday in that I can have at the very least, 50% of your knowledge. Thank you for the read and right.
On The Bench: Revell 1/48 B-25 Mitchell
Married to the most caring, loving, understanding, and beautiful wife in the world. Mrs. Toshi
Ok, this is the Corsair pilot still in the spruce, I'll start with this today. Hopefully I can utilize the pilot for the F4U-1 Corsair.
If anyone has a tip on how to paint figures, please let me know as I'm only a beginner modeler. Thank you in advance.
Toshi
I posted this in your P-51 thread. I guess you missed it.
"As a beginner to figure painting I would concentrate on cleaning up the seams and good clean blocking.
Blocking is the term for getting your main colors painted on. I.E. ; face, gloves, pants, boots, etc.
Get that much done and you're ready for the next step which is easy. Washes.
Give us all some progress pics and we can guide you clearly from that point. Just remember that preparation before painting applies to figures as much as it does to models. :)
You'll do great."
I hope this helps you get started my friend.
- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"
Tips from a master.
I'd only add, less is more. Alot of times in architectural models (usually) we paint the figures grey. Not a good idea here, but if you paint the khaki flight suit, the yellow mae west and the boots, helmet and face good flat colors with clean demarcations, you are off to the races. Dont worry about lots of fine brushwork detail just yet.
Don't use that horrid Testors flesh. Look at yourself in the mirror. You're brown, right, not pink. Paint his face and hands a color like that.
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
Everything's looking good. Interested to see how your pilot turns out. I've yet to venture into the realm of figure painting. But, I'm sure it will only be a matter of time.
"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin
Toshi, just a question - I noticed you installed the PE harness, but it looks like your figure has a harness molded on. If that's the case, I would recommend taking the PE harness out, since it will be in the way of him sitting in the cockpit.
-BD-
I will discipline my mind; "Less is more". Thank you GMorrison!
To JOE RIX,
I've done figures in the past but never at a level like this. I hope it turns out ok.
To BrandonD,
I removed the harness just last night. Tamiya has another PE that is made for a figure, I'll cross my fingers on that one. LOL!
To my fellow forum members,
With a little help from Google as well as photos of forum members past posting of their builds, this is the best I could do so far. More patience and practice is needed to be able to create a almost life like representation of any figures. Please see below the photos of the pilot, I finally got done at 3:30am. LOL! Yes, I'm a sick demented old fool. LOL!
That's not bad at all Toshi. I see nothing there that more practice wouldn't make better. Just like your builds, this will only get better and judging from what you've shown us already, you'll be painting figures like a pro in no time. :)
Like I said above, just concentrate on your blocking and prep work. You're doing very well!
To MBrindos,
Thank you for taking the out with helping and guiding me with not just this figure but also in my WWII aircraft builds. This Corsair kit comes with a standing pilot figure as well, I'll put him aside with the figures from the Tamiya P-51 and practice on them. I'll paint them in acrylics, that way I can wash the paint right off to start all over once more.
I have a question to Fellow Forum Members?
Since I first started building WW II model kit airplanes I've been using Tamiya masking tape. Can I use the blue colored masking tape? This is the tape that is a masking for general home and or painting a room item. Thank you in advance.
Yes Toshi. I use it almost exclusively. Just your standard blue painter's tape.
Toshi, I use both. Blue tape is hard to cut a complicated edge with so I often use Tamiya the stuff thats about 1/4", to set the line. Then blue next and sometimes tin foil paper or what have you.
Thank you for the information!
To Subaroomike,
I started the instrument panels in Testors Master Models flat black acrylic. When it came to the instrument panel I tried to execute the "Dry Brush" technique. Unfortunately, I realized that the flat black literally got painted over. I did not want to correct the panel as is the case, when you put together the instrument panel in the 1/32 Tamiya series, the panel, clear plastic then the decals are attached. Hence I just left it alone. My biggest fear would be to completely wipe out the decals.
In my humble opinion, I feel that I would create a bigger disaster, not something any modeler would look for.
Thank you for sharing with me this tip!
On the subject of masking I'll give my two cents. I use Tamiya tape exclusively for it's low tackiness, ease of cutting and ability to form curves and shapes. I no longer use blue tape for masking as I've pulled up too much paint and too many decals with it. Actually, I use it to remove decals. Outside of tape I use posterputty(blue tack) and Silly Putty. I could sing the praises of Sill Putty all day long. Simply love the stuff. You can manipulate to any shape you desire and create soft or sharp edges. Here's an example of what I have done with it on my 1/72 Hasegawa Focke Wulf FW 190:
I want to thank you on the visual build and how the silly putty works. I've heard this many times yet, I had no idea how to use it. Thank you for your time and effort in helping me with this issue.
Toshi In my humble opinion, I feel that I would create a bigger disaster Toshi
In my humble opinion, I feel that I would create a bigger disaster
I'm fluent in that! LOL
I am very glad to help out in any way. If you should opt to give Silly Putty a try let me know and I'll pass on a couple of very helpful hints on working with it. First and foremost is do NOT put it on flat paint or a flat coat. It "grabs" on to it and it is then hard to remove and it will leave a stain.
To my fellow forum members, The current Corsair build is a far cry from the Mustang build. With the Mustang, everything was straight forward, deviate and you shall be worried about why this or that isn't lining apart. The Corsair is an unforgivable beast. Even with following the directions and in my case, Mrs. Toshi looked over the build, there were some items that definitely made you scratch your head. Take a look at the tail end, there are several pieces that intertwined with each other, this turned out to be"OMG, what's going on". For the first time, I actually needed a break. My plan was to keep at it, I even researched the found Corsair in the Great Lakes. What's weird is that unlike most interiors of WWII aircraft, the photos show that the interior was a salmon pink! So here I am at 2:00am mixing paint with Tamiyas recommendation, I chose a small part and this was the ugliest paint scheme I've ever seen. I know that my Corasair is incorrect as far as interior paint scheme goes, but I'd rather have my Corsair looking good. For a minute I felt that this was a perfect set up for "Malibu Barbie" LOL. I continued on to the point that I was getting low with paint. So off to Hobby Lobby I went. Toshi
The current Corsair build is a far cry from the Mustang build. With the Mustang, everything was straight forward, deviate and you shall be worried about why this or that isn't lining apart. The Corsair is an unforgivable beast. Even with following the directions and in my case, Mrs. Toshi looked over the build, there were some items that definitely made you scratch your head.
Take a look at the tail end, there are several pieces that intertwined with each other, this turned out to be"OMG, what's going on". For the first time, I actually needed a break. My plan was to keep at it, I even researched the found Corsair in the Great Lakes. What's weird is that unlike most interiors of WWII aircraft, the photos show that the interior was a salmon pink! So here I am at 2:00am mixing paint with Tamiyas recommendation, I chose a small part and this was the ugliest paint scheme I've ever seen.
I know that my Corasair is incorrect as far as interior paint scheme goes, but I'd rather have my Corsair looking good. For a minute I felt that this was a perfect set up for "Malibu Barbie" LOL. I continued on to the point that I was getting low with paint. So off to Hobby Lobby I went.
After my attempt with figure painting, I realized that I needed a smaller brush. Besides the brush, I purchased more Green Zink Chromate of which I was dangerously low on, three types of clear acrylic from Model Master, and finally the "Tamiya Extra Thin cement". This is a first for me. Now finally at home, I shall diligently start back on my build of the curiously difficult Corsair build. Thank you forum members for following this build! Toshi
After my attempt with figure painting, I realized that I needed a smaller brush. Besides the brush, I purchased more Green Zink Chromate of which I was dangerously low on, three types of clear acrylic from Model Master, and finally the "Tamiya Extra Thin cement". This is a first for me. Now finally at home, I shall diligently start back on my build of the curiously difficult Corsair build. Thank you forum members for following this build!
I forgot to mention, I also got a very small tube of water base "Burnt Umber". On almost every build, I continuously read that the weathering effect is done on "Burnt Umber".
I know there are many ways to achieve the weathering effect, can anyone give me any tips or pointers with this wash of "Burnt Umber"? Thank you in advance.
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.