Got it thank you Mr. Bish!

6/7/15 Sunday, 8:10pm

So from page 19 to page 48, there is nothing but the description of assembling the main wings.  There is another page for the landing gears as well as the vertical tail end.  This is from page 20 steps 40-43.

Here is a small but nice Monday mid- morning assembly that was done, (The rest of the day as well as today is shot.  Just not feeling well, we all have our bad days and good days) maybe if I can muster up some energy, I'll be able to do just a little more work around the house as well as on the Corsair.  I'll try some Kona coffee and a English Muffin.  That'll get my spirits going.

Anyway, here is the wing mid-section assembly, there's as much parts in this area as there was in the cockpit.  I think my people (Peeps) just takes it too far sometimes!  LOL!  I must add that like all builds, these intricate and detailed artistic works will never get seen by anyone else.  

I've been a jazz musician playing in venues all over the world, at the very least, after a hard weeks of practicing, your craft is presented at the concert to share with the audience.  With such detail work in modeling that only you know that's there, I find this truly an art that is enjoyed in ones own inner sanctum of piece.  Or maybe we're just masochist at best.  LOL!

Sorry that I've been distracted quite a bit by yard work lately and I haven't kept up with my posts here. Overall you're doing one bang up job on your Corsair Toshi. So it appears from what your showing and saying is that you have to pay close attention to part placement in order to avoid gaps such as you have in your wing. Pretty common with kits that have a high parts count in certain areas.

Concerning your earlier observations about the salmon colored cockpit here is a link to the IPMS Stockholm site that does a nice job of addressing US Navy aircraft interior colors. You'll find that the salmon colored primer was used on all interior surfaces other than the cockpit in early Corsairs. I'll leave to you to read the rest of this very good article. You'll find links at the top of the page to further reference on US aircraft interior colors that are also excellent. i really like this site. The folks there seem to be very knowledgeable and very thorough in their research. I hope this helps for future builds and just some enjoyable reading.

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2004/05/stuff_eng_interior_colours_us_part3.htm

To JOE RIX,

Yes, so many parts for sure.  I think as many forum members have mentioned at how quickly I'm able to complete an assembly on my aircraft models, especially the Tamiya Mustang, at times, I know this is where I err at.  This causes my errors in not focusing on my particular task at hand.  Hence causing these parts to not fit per directions, especially a Tamiya kit.

This was one of the main reasons I started making models, you see, I had a traumatic brain injury also known as TBI as a work related accident.  For years, therapist could not find something that interest me to work on cognition, until a therapist purchased a Testors F4U Corsair for me to assemble.  This is what started my passion once again.  Besides focusing, model kits also helps with my math, fine motor skills, and many other physical disabilities that are too many to name here.

My enjoyment and happiness comes from being part of this community of artists, and having the opportunity to be able to share my builds with other like minded individuals like yourself.  Mrs. Toshi supports anything I choose to do, but although she thinks my builds are nice, it's not the same as if you or a fellow forum member would appreciate my work.  Getting comments from you all leaves me flabbergasted!  When I view everyone's builds on this forum, I can't even grasped the technical abilities to turn a piece of plastic into a art form.  

I am so happy to be able to finally get an explanation on the so called horrific pink salmon color (Malibu Barbie and Ken Doll Airplane).  LOL!  I now understand why the pink color is but only the primer, but as my own personal choice, I think I will continue with either the green zinc chromate or the yellow zinc chromate.  Lastly, thank you sir for the read and reply.

Toshi

Tuesday, 10:11pm 6/8/15

here I have my final assembly for the day, I think I did a better job of masking on the Corsair compared to my 6 previous builds.  With the fueselage attached, it's really getting exciting to see this build come to fruition.  

Thank you all, and a goodnight.

Toshi

Very nice, Toshi, your builds keep reflecting increased ability, the accompanying texts describe how well you are absorbing advanced techniques from the other members. I believe one day soon enough you'll be turning out great ones like Lawdog, Nathan and Brandon, the patience and discipline being invested now will pay off in a big way down the road, then you will enjoy the hobby all the more.

Thank you for all of the posts and photos, we all enjoy seeing how well you are doing. I wish all the best of success, as you continue to recover from your injury. And tell Mrs. Toshi that I said she is a wonderful lady and sweet wife, for helping and supporting you so much during your recovery and with your hobby.

All the best

Patrick

To Patrick206,

You and the many members here are not like, but are my second family!  You've supported my ambitions and continue to do so.  This is beyond my expectations, I will also never use the theme that I'm only so good because of my injury.  I will be adamant and say it's due to my novice approach and that this is only my seventh build, hence I utilize your builds and the many other builds as my inspiration to become at least half as good as you.  Thank you for believing in me and my limited but growing skills.  

Don't get me wrong, I'm shocked at what the Corsair is turning into thanks to all of your and members input and knowledge.  Each day when I wake up, I look over to my first builds to my most previous build and I do see a marked improvement.  With that being said, I must present on my threads at the very least and to show in real time and in each step some type of gain, large or small, in your words and many others in that; "reflecting increased abilities", must be my burning desire.  If I don't, then I'm not only lying to myself but to my second family as well.  Patrick206, you sir are too kind!  

Now onto my Corsair, I want to thank everyone for their support and especially the replies.  I do have some questions and comments.  First the comment:

1.  I tried to research the glass window beneath the pilot unsuccessfully.  Do any members have some or any type of information regarding this so called window?  Who in hell wants to see no floors except this window, I know for a fact that at 400 miles an hour, everything viewed as such will be a blurred in-accurate position especially between your legs.  

2. Now that I know that the Pink (Malibu Barbie) salmon color was a primer to the majority of naval aircraft, I am ever so grateful for this information.  I thought I was going crazy there for a minute.

Now my question:

1.  Is it not all factory/aftermarket masks pre-cut?  FYI, I had to take a brand new razor to cut these out for the Corsair as this mask was not pre-cut.  Why is this.

2.  A thought too late to be asking this question, would you and other members choose to present this Corsair in the folded wing assembly and why?  There is no wrong answer here, I'm just curios as to members choices.  I humbly in my own opinion still feel that to do justice to this Corsair kit, the extended wing configuration is a must.  

3.  Does anyone or I should say do anyone feel that my choice color to this Corsair build incorrect?  Before you answer this question, I did get the actual Tamiya recommended color.  Yet it did not sit well with Mrs. Toshi, my daughter whom is going to Kent State University as a PHD in photography and art major, and I, felt that the Tamiya recommended paint scheme was not only inaccurate but, way way off (Too cartoonish).  Please see the photo pic 3 starting from the last or most recent pic.

Toshi

I forgot to add, yes Patrick 206, I tell Mrs. Toshi every day!

Toshi

Toshi, you're making great progress!

Never built that kit but the 1/48th Tamiya Corsair has lousy fit around the oil coolers too. I wonder if they scaled up that kit???

I think the lower window had something to do use of the plane as a bomber. I'd have to look it up, that's off the top of my head.

That's interesting about the masks, the Eduard ones I use, are pre-cut. You only have to stick a knife tip under them and pull them out.  These are the Tamiya masks from the kit right? I've used a few but don't remember if they were pre-cut or not now.

Not sure what you daughter means- US Corsairs only came in two schemes as far as I know- white, medium blue, and dark blue for the middle of the war and all over glossy dark blue late in the war and Korea. You can lighten the paint some for paint fading in the hot Pacific sun if you want though.

To Gamera,

The reference to my daughter is this; since I bought her her first camera of which is a Cannon SLR, I've had been giving tips to her on photography and art (In Amsterdam, I studied Rembrandt and Van Gogh).  Now that she is studying at Kent State, the tides were turned 180 degrees.  I go to her now for the aforementioned situations, as her knowledge now supersedes my information.

Since I started making WWII aircraft model kits, she has been my constant observer and critique, (Sometimes harsh, she now understands the term "Tough Love" maybe a bit too much.  LOL!).  So in choosing a base color medium, I used her very accurate eye for what will be the Corsair's final paint scheme.  That is why I used her as a reference, plus with Mrs. Toshi and my additional input, I feel as I can't loose at least in regards to painting the F4U.  Thank you Gamera for your input and reply!

Toshi

I forgot Gamera:

The oil coolers were the most challenging part to fit like your 1/48 F4U.  From my knowledge they did not upgrade and or scale up the kit.

The bomber answer is the most accurate and sensible explanation.  

I purchased Eduard masks for my P-61 Black Widow.  These were pre-cut as you mentioned, I checked a lot of Eduard masks, they are all pre-cut.  I assume that Tamiya did so for the builder as most builders have great experience as well as many years of model building, with these veterans like yourself I'm sure that Tamiya felt this was a simple affair to experience modeler.  

It's a bomb aimers window, a vestige of the original specification. It only was on F4U-1 and some early 1A's. And, usually it was painted over. Hard to find pictures with a clear one.

Ahhhh, thanks GM, I've built a number of them including my 1960's El Salvadorian and never painted over that blasted window! Well, I guess now I know better...

Toshi: Ah, well I'm not an artist, I just paint stuff the colour they call for and sometimes alter it where an article in FSM, the internet, or someone in the modeling club tells me to!

Toshi -  Regarding wings folded or flight ready, I feel the airplane just looks more "right" with wings in flight position. The folded position shows well how the mechanism works and has plenty of complex detail, but doesn't seem that the airplane appears in it's intended purpose.

The wings folded only to facilitate storage of the airplane in close proximity to others, but with wings ready for flight it looks like it's ready to go kick some tail. Plus, I think it's one elegant design, very distinctive and kind of graceful. Your model is looking mighty fine, for paint color I always thought the dark sea blue was a classic appearance.

Patrick  

Only one answer- build two!

I vote for flight position.

To GMorrison,

Ah ha!  Gamera instincts was accurate.  I know, thanks to you that I must never cease to research my builds.  Hence I was looking at F4U-1 Corsair's information, that's why I could not find any related description on the bomber glass but, as your statement says, that this was painted out on the F4U-1 and of course the F4U-1A's.  

If my memory serves me right GMorrison, it was the Navy that requested a fighter, bomber, and attack aircraft compatible with an aircraft carrier's take off and landing in 1938.  Now the bombers window makes absolute sense.  At that time, the Corsair was the fastest airplane ever produced.

Thank you Mr. GMorrison for your valued information.  You are an human Wikipedia on WWII aircraft!  Once again and again, I can't thank you enough for the read and replies.

Toshi

To GMorrison,

I too vote for flight position.  Thank you sir.

Patrick 206,

Yes sir, my sentiments exactly.  As for the deep blue?  I concur with the color combination.  As always, thank you sir.

To Gamera,

You're too modest, whether or not you disagree or otherwise, all of what I've seen here are artist portraying their art form via Static Model Kits.  Thank you sir.

I have before and after shots of the F4U that I'm building in regards to pre-prep sanding, fitting, and a airbrush shot of primer.  Please view photos below.  Speaking about airbrushes, I have some quick questions including panel outlining.

1)  I have a Harbor Freight Tools compressor.  It's always at 58 lbs. per square inch as there is no way to adjust the pressure.  I looked far and wide including the internet resources and found a few adjustable pressure valves.  I settled for a Iwata in-line MAC valve (Actually it connects to the airbrush followed by my Iwata hose).  The Iwata MAC valve for my air pressure regulator is now ergonomically at my finger tips.  My question is why do I have to be shooting at 15 to 25 PSI?  At these pressures, won't I have issues and or create more problems as an example, at 15 PSI won't the needle get plugged up due to the low air pressure.  Thank you in advance.

2)  My NEO per Iwata states that this airbrush is fitted with a 0.35 point needle and needle head.  Iwata claims this is the most simple way for beginners to learn, although it will not paint very thin lines, it will also not have a large overspray.  So my 2nd. question is, I am going to be purchasing a 0.5 needle, do I need to change the head to 0.5 as well?  Thank you in advance.

3) As for outlining the panels, prior to the base color coat, must I use an airbrush for this technique or can I simply hand paint in the panel lines.  Also, can I get the pros and cons of either airbrush or hand paint.  Thank you in advance.

Toshi

Toshi-  Your skills have progressed by leaps and bounds.  Very well done.

As to another reason for the gull wing, I heard once way back when that it had to do with keeping the main gear legs short enough for more strength and eliminate a 2 piece strut due to prop size and ground clearance. It also left more room for fuel and guns/ammo in the wing since the gear was shorter, and space would be at a preimum.  Just look at the main gear length on an F8 Bearcat...  As to Chance-Vought, I suspect it is more due to ownership changes than just shortening the company name.

Thank you Toshi, but it's more Wikipedia than Morrison. I tend to like to research stuff, and try really hard not to use a built model as reference, or a single written source for anything.

That being said, and if it matters to you, the color choices are three color, or blue gray over light gray. For Sea Gray over white you need earlier markings.

Here's some info on the cockpit colors, FYI:

William Reece in his well known monograph “USN & USMC Aircraft Interiors of WWII” dated 20 April, 2004 states:

   “F4U-1 Birdcage Corsair. Cockpit: Well this is tricky. The best evidence is black. Photos of F4U-1s taken at the time show the cockpits as being a very dark color. The F4U-1 E & M manual calls for Dull Dark Green. Photos and some wrecks show flat black. A photo of 'Pappy" Boyington in Bruce Gamble's book, The Black Sheep, shows him sitting in a Birdcage with a black armor plate and upper seat. This a/c also has no headrest. All other areas of the F4U-1 Birdcage Corsair would normally be 'Salmon'. Salmon is a pale pinkish/brown primer made by mixing Indian Red pigment with Zinc Chromate Yellow. The closest Munsell match is 2.5 YR 6/8 or between FS 32276 and FS 32356. This color was applied to the whole F4U before the final camouflage finish. The landing gear bays were this color. The insides of the main gear doors were Light Gray. Sometimes this was only over spray over the Salmon. Note: there were canvas covers on the inner and outer wheel bays that were either Olive Drab or Light Gray. The closest paint that I have found to the Salmon samples in my possession is PollyScale Railroad, Southern Pacific Daylight Orange. The E & M manual calls for the wheel bays, engine cowling and accessory cowlings to be painted in Non-Specular Light Gray to match the underside of the aircraft. Recovered wrecks show these areas to be Salmon however. Color photos of early Corsairs show the cowling interior to be Non-Specular Light Gray.”

To Goldhammer,

Thank you for the compliments.  Yes, I read the same correspondence as well.  Still, I admit even without the corrective issues, the Corsair is one beautiful plane.

I think in terms of ownership, I must agree with you as I feel the same way.  

Thank you for the read and replies,

Toshi

Some paint thoughts. Too high a pressure and the paint can do a lot of bad things. The worst is what's called "fisheyes" where you'll get a bare spot surrounded by a ring of paint. Also some paints will dry before they hit the model if they are too vaporized and the model is too far away. Low pressure won't clog the nozzle, it's the same as when you haven't used the double action to send paint through.

I don't have an Iwata. My Badger, the needles and nozzles come as a pair. You switch both. My old Paasche was the same way, only finicky had to be readjusted whenever you did that. Better to have several airbrushes.

IF you preshade the panel lines, and your current model would seem to be one where that makes sense with the totally beat up tropical weathering- it needs to be a soft line IMO. Take a look at my Tiran 5 model over in Armor, you can see the steps and the results. Hard lines or Sharpie lines etc. either look wrong, or by the time you've put enough color over them to look right, are hard to see.

Another thing you can try, this is really old school. After you've painted the bird blue, get a really sharp hard pencil like a 2H and draw in the panel line. It's a little tricky when they are recessed as you can get two little lines side by side. But it's an old trick that works pretty well on raised panel lines.

Before priming,

To GMorrison,

Thank you for the information.  What does IMO mean?  Yes, I will utilize that technique.

Toshi

IMO-internet abreviation for "in my opinion"

Looks good Toshi. :)

Your Corsair is coming along quite nicely.  I've been hesitant to tackle a 1/32 kit thus far but you're giving me the inspiration to do so. Ty Toshi for the excellent posts.