Hey Toshi the cockpit looks great!

I didn't see anyone mention it but 'Frog tape' is also really good for masking- it looks like Tamiya tape but you get a really big fat roll for not much more money. 

These three parts and the cockpit are the key to a successful assembly of the front end, the tail end with the complicated cage is the last key part in the assembly procedure.

Last night, I took Mrs. Toshi out to dinner at Rockne's, a local Nothern Ohio eatery and pub and we both had a bowl of chicken dumpling soup followed by loaded fries and our main entree of Reuben sandwiches.  We then went home to just relax, well Mrs. Toshi did and I went straight into my Corsair build.  Yet surprisingly the Corsair build is my way of relaxing.

I was left with the daunting task of glueing both left and right side of the F4U main body, for me personally, this is where my biggest mistakes occur.  Too much glue, not enough glue, fueselage not square, interior components not lining up to specifications.  This leads to putty and more putty and sanding, and more sanding.

After several YouTube videos on fueselage assembly, I finally went to Hobby Lobby and purchased the Tamiya Thin Cement that seems to be used by every serious pro-modeler.  They and forum members were right on the money, this works exactly like the way it is portrayed.  One of the guys I love to watch via the Tube is ISM (International Scale Modeler).  He does a excellent job on fit and finish although some of it can be very boring, I try to use his technique and equipment and supplies to emulate what he's assembling.  

Inch per inch, I slowly closed the body of the Cosair, found the weak points and placed some blue tape and clamps, to straighten the F4U-1 Corsair.  Most items purchased via commercial advertisement don't always live up to expectations.  Tamiya is one company that has me religiously following the Tamiya branded items.  I will point out that some of their products are pricy but well worth the cost as it does exactly as advertised.  

Below are a few photos of the completed fueselage halfs glued together.

Toshi

To roger_wilcox,

Thank you for your support and words of wisdom.  I too have the Testors liquid cement, and yes, the brush is questionable.  Hence my purchase today of the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement.

Toshi

She's looking really good Toshi.I'm a big fan of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. The applicator brush that's part of the cap is nice.much better than the bushy one that comes with Testors liquid cement.With that I have dedicated brush that I use. This kit looks like a complicated beast,but you seem to be taming it nicely...Douglas

I forgot to mention, I also got a very small tube of water base "Burnt Umber".  On almost every build, I continuously read that the weathering effect is done on "Burnt Umber".  

I know there are many ways to achieve the weathering effect, can anyone give me any tips or pointers with this wash of "Burnt Umber"?  Thank you in advance.

Toshi

I am very glad to help out in any way. If you should opt to give Silly Putty a try let me know and I'll pass on a couple of very helpful hints on working with it. First and foremost is do NOT put it on flat paint or a flat coat. It "grabs" on to it and it is then hard to remove and it will leave a stain.

Toshi

In my humble opinion, I feel that I would create a bigger disaster

Toshi

I'm fluent in that! LOL

To JOE RIX,

I want to thank you on the visual build and how the silly putty works.  I've heard this many times yet, I had no idea how to use it.  Thank you for your time and effort in helping me with this issue.

On the subject of masking I'll give my two cents. I use Tamiya tape exclusively for it's low tackiness, ease of cutting and ability to form curves and shapes. I no longer use blue tape for masking as I've pulled up too much paint and too many decals with it. Actually, I use it to remove decals. Outside of tape I use posterputty(blue tack) and Silly Putty. I could sing the praises of Sill Putty all day long. Simply love the stuff. You can manipulate to any shape you desire and create soft or sharp edges. Here's an example of what I have done with it on my 1/72 Hasegawa Focke Wulf FW 190:

To GMorrison,

Thank you for sharing with me this tip!

Toshi

To Subaroomike,

I started the instrument panels in Testors Master Models flat black acrylic.  When it came to the instrument panel I tried to execute the "Dry Brush" technique.  Unfortunately, I realized that the flat black literally got painted over.  I did not want to correct the panel as is the case, when you put together the instrument panel in the 1/32 Tamiya series, the panel, clear plastic then the decals are attached.  Hence I just left it alone.  My biggest fear would be to completely wipe out the decals.

In my humble opinion, I feel that I would create a bigger disaster, not something any modeler would look for.  

Toshi

To MBrindos,

Thank you for the information!  

Toshi

Toshi, I use both. Blue tape is hard to cut a complicated edge with so I often use Tamiya the stuff thats about 1/4", to set the line. Then blue next and sometimes tin foil paper or what have you.

Toshi

Yes Toshi. I use it almost exclusively. Just your standard blue painter's tape.

I have a question to Fellow Forum Members?

Since I first started building WW II model kit airplanes I've been using Tamiya masking tape.  Can I use the blue colored masking tape?  This is the tape that is a masking for general home and or painting a room item.  Thank you in advance.

Toshi

To MBrindos,

Thank you for taking the out with helping and guiding me with not just this figure but also in my WWII aircraft builds.  This Corsair kit comes with a standing pilot figure as well, I'll put him aside with the figures from the Tamiya P-51 and practice on them.  I'll paint them in acrylics, that way I can wash the paint right off to start all over once more.

Toshi

That's not bad at all Toshi. I see nothing there that more practice wouldn't make better. Just like your builds, this will only get better and judging from what you've shown us already, you'll be painting figures like a pro in no time.  :)

Like I said above, just concentrate on your blocking and prep work. You're doing very well!

To my fellow forum members,

With a little help from Google as well as photos of forum members past posting of their builds, this is the best I could do so far.  More patience and practice is needed to be able to create a almost life like representation of any figures.  Please see below the photos of the pilot, I finally got done at 3:30am.  LOL!  Yes, I'm a sick demented old fool.  LOL!

To BrandonD,

I removed the harness just last night.  Tamiya has another PE that is made for a figure, I'll cross my fingers on that one.  LOL!

Toshi

To JOE RIX,

I've done figures in the past but never at a level like this.  I hope it turns out ok.

Toshi

To GMorrison,

I will discipline my mind; "Less is more".  Thank you GMorrison!

Toshi

Toshi, just a question - I noticed you installed the PE harness, but it looks like your figure has a harness molded on. If that's the case, I would recommend taking the PE harness out, since it will be in the way of him sitting in the cockpit.

-BD-

Everything's looking good. Interested to see how your pilot turns out. I've yet to venture into the realm of figure painting. But, I'm sure it will only be a matter of time.

Tips from a master.

I'd only add, less is more. Alot of times in architectural models (usually) we paint the figures grey. Not a good idea here, but if you paint the khaki flight suit, the yellow mae west and the boots, helmet and face good flat colors with clean demarcations, you are off to the races. Dont worry about lots of fine brushwork detail just yet.

Don't use that horrid Testors flesh. Look at yourself in the mirror. You're brown, right, not pink. Paint his face and hands a color like that.