Sorry that I've been distracted quite a bit by yard work lately and I haven't kept up with my posts here. Overall you're doing one bang up job on your Corsair Toshi. So it appears from what your showing and saying is that you have to pay close attention to part placement in order to avoid gaps such as you have in your wing. Pretty common with kits that have a high parts count in certain areas.

Concerning your earlier observations about the salmon colored cockpit here is a link to the IPMS Stockholm site that does a nice job of addressing US Navy aircraft interior colors. You'll find that the salmon colored primer was used on all interior surfaces other than the cockpit in early Corsairs. I'll leave to you to read the rest of this very good article. You'll find links at the top of the page to further reference on US aircraft interior colors that are also excellent. i really like this site. The folks there seem to be very knowledgeable and very thorough in their research. I hope this helps for future builds and just some enjoyable reading.

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2004/05/stuff_eng_interior_colours_us_part3.htm

Here is a small but nice Monday mid- morning assembly that was done, (The rest of the day as well as today is shot.  Just not feeling well, we all have our bad days and good days) maybe if I can muster up some energy, I'll be able to do just a little more work around the house as well as on the Corsair.  I'll try some Kona coffee and a English Muffin.  That'll get my spirits going.

Anyway, here is the wing mid-section assembly, there's as much parts in this area as there was in the cockpit.  I think my people (Peeps) just takes it too far sometimes!  LOL!  I must add that like all builds, these intricate and detailed artistic works will never get seen by anyone else.  

I've been a jazz musician playing in venues all over the world, at the very least, after a hard weeks of practicing, your craft is presented at the concert to share with the audience.  With such detail work in modeling that only you know that's there, I find this truly an art that is enjoyed in ones own inner sanctum of piece.  Or maybe we're just masochist at best.  LOL!

6/7/15 Sunday, 8:10pm

So from page 19 to page 48, there is nothing but the description of assembling the main wings.  There is another page for the landing gears as well as the vertical tail end.  This is from page 20 steps 40-43.

Got it thank you Mr. Bish!

Looking very nice there.

At a guess, I think its just to shorten it. All of there aircraft are just referred to as Vought, the last name of the man who founded it.

I have a question to any member familiar to the Corsair

I thought that the name of the Corsair was "Chance Vought F4U Corsair?  I don't see the word "Chance" anymore.  Why is this so?

Toshi

Here we have the tail wheel and components landing gear.  As such you have the option to add a tail hook if you so choose to do so.  Of course given the design that your Corsair is a carrier based aircraft.  I'm choosing to depict my Corsair as a USMC Corsair.  Although I do think that to add the arresting hook looks really cool, I know for a fact it is not so.  

Toshi

i1282.photobucket.com/.../AE9A666F-8F48-43C7-B849-C4ED1F511BD9_zpsvwyzuc1z.jpg

i1282.photobucket.com/.../5319BCEB-244C-403A-8E7C-CA775BB765CF_zpsglusorql.jpg

The time of completion for the tail landing gear is 6/6/7/15 Sunday at 1:08pm.

Next up is the complicated/OMG assembly of the wings.  You have a choice to pick either the folded wings or the extended wings.  I will choose the extended wings as that is what I see in my minds eye and this is the most universally excepted pose when one describes the infamous Vought F4U-1 Corsair.

i1282.photobucket.com/.../723653FF-50AD-4E71-BA00-87A79053D768_zpsbpfmkero.jpg

Good Afternoon my fellow "Model Artist" forum members,

I must now add that you are all not just " Fellow Forum Members" but I now add "Model Artist".  All I keep seeing on these threads are museum quality pieces depicting actual real life aircraft, Tanks, and Cars just to name a few.

I hope one day my kits are as half as good as forum members.  These threads are most inspiring at best.  My contribution for 6/7/15 Sunday at 11:15am is a build by build, step by step, live photographs as I complete each sequence of this build.  Thank you all for this opportunity, I am most great full to be part of this community.

Toshi

These photos depict a pre-prep, before, and after photos in live sequence as I start and finish each step.  This is from page 17, steps 34-36.  Thank you in advance!

One lesson learned from my previous Tamiya 1/32 P-51D Mustang build is that I was not focused on the attachments of the horizontal stabilizers nor the elevators.  On the P-51D, one drooped while the other went up.  From that, here are the same steps but with me focused on this assembly.

To Gamera,

Thank you very much, I'll try to continue at a high level to the best of my abilities.  Thank you for the supportive comment and stopping by.

Toshi

To Patrick206,

Thank you for the very valuable tip.  It seems as simple as this; "The correct tool, in this case glue, for the correct job".  Your information is priceless.

Toshi

To Lawdog114,

Yes, very much so.  I don't think I'll be ready for something like that but, I was seriously considering a PE engine.  Then after some shopping around, I thought to myself; "I spent a lot of money on this series on  a Tamiya's 1/32 line.  I might as well build it straight from the box like I did with the Mustang.  I know, it looks great with the wire loom and there is a sense of great accomplishment, I'm just surprised I'm able to get through the Cosair build.  It actually is a much more challenging kit than anything I've ever done to date!  

Don't get me wrong, I love assembling the Corsair, it is so challenging that I need to step back every so often to give myself a quick break.  From the looks of it after studying the manual, the wings which can be extended or folded is the biggest and hardest obstacle at this juncture.  I've never seen so many parts just for a wing let alone for a entire WWII aircraft.  

I am looking at the next build of which I've never done one of.  It's also from the same Tamiya series from the 1/32 scale line.  It's the "Supermarine Spitfire"!  This aircraft seems to have the same type of Merlin Rolls Royce engine that the Mustang has.  I was seriously considering making spark plug wires since that engine is also visible.  Plus instead of a radial engine where the wires are run through the engine, the Merlins are built like the old school Straight 6, 8, 12, and 16 valve car engines.  Yes, they had a car back in the early 1930's and 1940's with a straight 16.  It was a Lincoln and a Cadillac.  Which both are still being built today of course with out such a massive engine.  It would probably get 5 miles to a gallon.  Just to go get groceries, it will cost you possibly $200.00 in gas!  LOL.  You'd have to fill up on the way and fill up again just to get home.  I have an uncle back home who owns a straight 16 Lincoln.  I'm very familiar with these straight blocks as I rebuilt a 1979 Mercury Zephyr straight six back in the day.

After this build, I do see one more WWII aircraft (Propeller airplane) left.  It's another model I have never ever made, the infamous Mitsubishi Zero.  It's also in the 1/32 Tamiya's series.  This series is nothing I've ever seen nor built before.  I assume it's the top of the line high end static model kits in the Tamiya line.  It seems these 1/32 kits start at approximately $100.00 and up to $200.00 which would include the Mustang, Corsair, and the Zero.  The Zero is a ridiculous $300.00 and up dollars as it's on a proprietary Tamiya base and has rotating props and creates the sound of an actual Zero starting up or flying.  I don't know which, there is another 1/32 Zero without these special accessories that sells for about a $100.00.  I think I'll stick with that unless Mrs. Toshi says otherwise.

Thank you sir and the many Forum members that's been following this build, and has been giving me the support and knowledge in what to do or not do.  In your case by enhancing the Corsir as a whole.

Toshi

Looking great Toshi.  Have you considered rigging that radial...since your using the clear cowl?  It may enhance the realism.  Heres a tutorial on how I do it, which is pretty much on all my radial engines.  It's tedious but fairly easy.  

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/149327.aspx?sort=ASC&pi240=1

I lke Rockne's too, particularly the Termintor sub....

Joe

Toshi: Looks good to me!

Rob and Toshi - The Tamiya thin, or any other styrene plastic cement will work well on clear parts, but you must be very careful when applying it. It has high "capillary action," which means it wicks into the small places very quickly. It's quite prone to travel to spots outside the specific where you want it to go, if applied a bit too heavily.

When I do use it, I make certain that the piece is precisely placed, then using a VERY TINY pointed brush I dip it into the cement jar, touch the brush against the inside of the jar above the cement level, to remove the excess cement back into the jar. The brush hairs will then have just enough cement to transfer to the space between the model and the clear part. It is enough to attach it at that spot, but not so much as to spread to a larger area outside the space and ruin the clear bit by "getting outside the line."

Once that spot has a few seconds to set and somewhat firm up, I move to another spot away from that one, like maybe the opposite side. That method is similar to what welders do, called "spot welding. As you proceed around the clear bit, eventually you get it all covered.

For my own method I prefer to use white glue, no damage to the clear part if placed incorrectly, easily removable and cleaned up with water for another attempt. If the model will only be displayed and not handled or played with, the white glue is plenty strong enough. If only displayed, I can't see a reason for a strong glue that makes it a permanent installation, that can actually ruin a part if mis-applied. Just saying.

Patrick

To RobGroot4,

Thank you for taking the time out and sharing your recommendation as well as the read and reply.

Toshi,

 Looking good.  The Testor's clear glue is basically watered down Elmer's glue, so strength is somewhat limited.  I don't have any experience using Tamiya Thin on clear parts, maybe try gluing 2 pieces of clear sprue together and see what happens?

Groot

Oh, I didn't think that the Testors Clear Cement was that good.  I mean it's a great product and I've actually made windows with it on my Mariner build but, it's nice to know.  That's a good tip, I think I'll use your technique.  

Recently, there was a Corsair found in one of the Great Lakes.  It was in prestine condition.  When the Corsair was brought up, it had that god awful pink salmon color as the interior was painted as such.  Well, I guess Tamiya wanted to go in that direction, Tamiya can paint the interior with purple dots, I'll stick with the good old green zinc chromate.  

What's funny is that these 1/32 kits comes with a book on the history and stats on the aircraft to be built.  Then in the back of the book, it shows live actual photos of the aircraft your about to build.  You are correct in that I have yet to see this pink corsair except for one build that I found on the Internet and it definitely looks like a "Malibu Barbie" Corsair.  LOL!

I'd love to see your mustang and Corsair build!  Thanks for the tips and the read and reply.

Toshi

Toshi -

I was able to use the Testors Clear Parts Cement on my 1/32 clear P-51D (Monogram Phantom Mustang). You're correct that it's not as strong as other glues, but it worked for 90 percent of that build.

In this situation, I would use the Tamiya cement on the back plate mounting, and then use the clear parts cement to hold the cowling itself to the plate with the exhaust pipes. I haven't built the 1/32 Tamiya Corsair yet, but if it's engineered anything like the F4U-1D in 1/48 that I put the cowling on tonight, any crazing from the Tamiya cement will be hidden, and the rear piece is what does the heavy lifting. You should be fine with the Testors stuff (or Micro Kristal Klear) for the cowling itself.

Also, not sure if anyone else replied, but your interior color is fine. I haven't seen the pinkish color you mentioned in any of my references, and while it may very well have been put on some, somewhere and be correct for some builds, your green zinc chromate is also correct.

-BD-

I did not know what to use as far as the glue is concerned.  I thought of CA, but with clear parts, it will look like San Fransico bay.  LOL.  Then I thought of Testors Clear Parts Cement.  The rest of the engine will be secured on this base constructed with the exhaust system.  I'm weary that the Testors Clear Cement can hold that weight.  I finally went with the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement.  I'm confident this will hold together.  Thank you in advance for your time and support forum members!

Toshi

I'm going to go with the clear cowling.  I'm concerned with finger prints and even a speck of paint hence, while the engine will be constructed away from my work station.  Actually the dinning table!  LOL .

To Patrick206,

Thank you for the masking and what type of tape information you've shared with me as well as other forum members.  Masking might be a joke to the simple observer but, for modelers this issue can become a make or brake scenario.  

Thank you for stopping by and sharing that vital information.

Toshi

To Greg,

With the kids living on their own and Mrs. Toshi at work, I'm left with household chores, three cats, and a teddy bear hamster named Albert.  No, they are not mines, two cats and Albert the hamster belongs to my daughter.  Now I'm stuck with litter and hay!  LOL.  

As for my time, I'll do some building of the Corsair, take a break, watch a You Tube video on model kit assembly, and go right back to my beloved Corsair.  That's the make up on most days, the rest are dedicated to doctors appointments and Mrs. Toshi on her days off.

I had to stop a few times with this F4U-1 kit, there's questionable and confusing data.  Of course this is not Tamiyas fault but my own.  I'm still sanding the fueselage, then comes the engine and wings.  It's like forty five to fifty pages just on the wings (The folded wings are also part of the included description) it's a huge task to tackle but it's part of the most gratifying and exciting parts of this build, especially when things start to take shape into a Corsair.  Thank you for the read and reply!

Toshi

Hi, Toshi -

I buy my frog tape at a Sherwin Williams paint store near me, I imagine it may be available at many similar stores. Very good quality and inexpensive. It has it's uses, but still I slightly favor Scotch Blue Tape for most of my masking. The Tamiya tape works best for me cut into about 1/16" strips, used to mask straight or slightly curved surfaces, it doesn't curve tightly as well as the Blue. The Blue, cut into those fine strips makes and holds a fairly tight curve.

Another effective tape for masking is Scotch Removable Tape, good for masking the entire area, easy to cut and removes without lifting paint, BUT, it does sometimes tend to leave a bit of residue behind if left on very long. That is quite easy to remove with just a little finger rub. That tape though, will not bend to make a curve.

The Corsair is coming along quite well, you're doing a good job of aligning and clamping as you proceed with your gluing. She'll be a beaut when finished.

Patrick

Wow. I'm busy for 5 days, check in and you're 1/3 done with another one.

Looking good, Toshi.

To Gamera,

I've never heard of "Frog Tape", that's a new one for me.  I'll google it.  Thank you for the heads up and the read and reply.

Toshi