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RLM 71 basecoat on, will mask tonight and do the RLM splinter over the weekend.
Theuns
No kidding about a big kit...I just sprayed up whole tin of humbrol RLM 71 and I still need to do one side of the fin . Will have to go buy more :-(
It's coming along nicely. A few markings will help break that up for sure. Such a big kit.
BK
On the bench:
A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!
2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed
14 / 5 / 2
This is a whole lotta blue !
Nice use of the Twist Tie wire! I used the same trick on my Spitfire ;)
When having to fill-in around clear parts, as you well know now, its better to leave the masking off as it does draw in thinners and solvents. Does the same thing if your paints are super thin and you spray them on too heavy.
If you buff that windscreen well enough then an application of gloss should bring it back pretty close to its orriginal condition. I typically have at least one spot on a canopy that needs to be brought back from the fog. I've learned that you can actually get away with spraying testors dull cote over glass and getting the shine back with some thinned gloss and a hairy stick.
I used that trick on a Kubelwagon windshield to make part of it look dusty lol.
I do like how you added the extra pieces to your belts, Theuns. This build is shaping up really well despite the troubles you've had so far. Fixing these flubs is a real show of talent. :)
- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"
Theuns I hope that if I brush on some future it will restore the left side of the windshield.
I hope that if I brush on some future it will restore the left side of the windshield.
I don't know what it looks like in person, but in the pic that boo-boo on the surface of windscreen almost looks as if it belongs there.
Looking awesome! Hope the polish works for you,it doesnt look too hateful
gif creators
I had big plans for this model (as I always do) but have reached the point where I will push as hard as I can now to just get it done asap as I get very iritated when a model starts to fight me ...
I get what you're saying. I've noticed everyone here is really positive. I'll probably just do before and after type pics after I get the seams right. My excuse right now is not having an account on a pic hosting site. lol. I just need to build confidence as my last model (a tamya 1/35 flak 88) was my first model really paying attention to the seams. I also toyed with making mud and scratching up the feet on that one.
Anyway...enough about my stuff. Glad you'll be able to salvage the clear piece that got trashed. Look forward to seeing your next update.
After looking carefully at the damage to the clearbits I realized that the worst area was in the small opening window of the windshield.....so I simply cut it out and will make a seperate opening window from clear plastic. I will not even atempt to glue it back so it will be left in the open position.
The rest of the affected area I sanded and pollished. It is not perfect but I can live with it.
I am hoping to get close to paintng soon. Still can not make up my mind to go for splinter or mottle trop scheme.
Hi, seams and filling are really one of my pet hates, I just can not stand having to do them but that is all part of modling.
What I have learned is that you need to do all you can to get the seam/joint as smooth as you can to lesten any sanding needed afterwards that could lead to lost detail.
I usually put masking tape either side of the seam, then put tamiya putty and quickly smooth it out with an ear bub dipped in either acetone or thinners.
This will usually lead to a nice smooth "bead" that will need littl sanding.
Just make sure it doesnt go under the masking tape on clear bits !
What I love abuot this forum is that no matter what our models look like there is no bad comments from members and it does not matter how much you think you know there is always something to learn form fellow members :-)
I don't even have words to tell you how jealous I am of your skills both on the detail work and filling seams. I've got a AMT Tempest kit that's giving me fits (where the seams are concerned) right now. I need to buckle down and learn some of these techniques I've been seein on here. I see work like this and think...nah...no one needs to see WIP pics of this kit I'm working on.
I had to fill the gap between the windscreen and the fuselage as the fit was quite bad.
I used tamiya putty and to smooth it I used acetone on an earbud. However when I removed the masking tape the acetone had bled under it and melted part of the clear plastic .....
I will have to somehow sand this all off and try pollish it back again, that is gona be fun!
Good to see this one back.
These 1/24th's do look fascinating and it's always fun to watch.
Thanx mr T, always good to hear from you :-)
T
Theuns I dusted off this model and it has grown into a huge thing! By the size of the paving you can see the size The fit of the outer wings to the inner was not good so I had to fill the gaps with sprue and glue. I hope it will not crack under the wings weight over time. I wanted to go mad with the detail on this model, then I decided that it will take ages and I will maybe not even finish it so I will complete it as is. Theuns
I dusted off this model and it has grown into a huge thing! By the size of the paving you can see the size
The fit of the outer wings to the inner was not good so I had to fill the gaps with sprue and glue. I hope it will not crack under the wings weight over time.
I wanted to go mad with the detail on this model, then I decided that it will take ages and I will maybe not even finish it so I will complete it as is.
Toshi
On The Bench: Revell 1/48 B-25 Mitchell
Married to the most caring, loving, understanding, and beautiful wife in the world. Mrs. Toshi
The fit of the outer wings to the inner was not good so I had to fill the gaps with sprue and glue. I hope it will not crack under the wings weight over time. I wanted to go mad with the detail on this model, then I decided that it will take ages and I will maybe not even finish it so I will complete it as is. Theuns
"one man's trash is another's model materials" LOL
Kudos for posting that excellent guide to how you scratch your seatbelts!
Great step by step, great results, and add me to the list of guys who wants every one of those twisty ties I've ever tossed out back!!!
Odd thing is, every time I discard one, I stand there and look at it for a bit. My significant other has actually caught me doing this and asked "you're not going to save THAT, are you????" She's in for a surprise, isn't she?
I am always on the lookout around the house to see what I can use on the models LOL
Oh My Gosh I'm always on the lookout for wire for modeling and there it is right in front of my face...TWIST TIES TYTYTY for the great tip and tutorial .
I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.
Very nice tut on those belts, and they really look the buisness.
I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
very cool. Thanks. I'm going to try that.
Thanx Greg.
The belts are actyuallt quite simple to make with stuff you have in your home. I don't like having to buy AM stuff as it is very expensive where I am.
I used the thin steel wire found inside the twisty things you get to tie up plastic bags.
I start by making a small loop and flatning out the edges, the scale is in millimeters.
Fold it back on itself trim to size Then cut a strip of paper masking tape and fold it over the "catch loop" Make a square loop to simulate the adjustment buckle Make another belt and put it through the square loop Make the buckle complete by adding the "slide strip" and trim to size Slip the one end of the strap through the buckle. As for the "hook part" of the lapstrap make an ende loop like the first pik but with a longer loop that you fold back on itself to look like this. The leather piece under the hook part of the strap is just thin cardboard. I then stain the straps with highly thinned enamel. It is a longwinded "tutoral" but I like the end results . T
Fold it back on itself
trim to size Then cut a strip of paper masking tape and fold it over the "catch loop" Make a square loop to simulate the adjustment buckle Make another belt and put it through the square loop Make the buckle complete by adding the "slide strip" and trim to size Slip the one end of the strap through the buckle. As for the "hook part" of the lapstrap make an ende loop like the first pik but with a longer loop that you fold back on itself to look like this. The leather piece under the hook part of the strap is just thin cardboard. I then stain the straps with highly thinned enamel. It is a longwinded "tutoral" but I like the end results . T
trim to size
Then cut a strip of paper masking tape and fold it over the "catch loop" Make a square loop to simulate the adjustment buckle Make another belt and put it through the square loop Make the buckle complete by adding the "slide strip" and trim to size Slip the one end of the strap through the buckle. As for the "hook part" of the lapstrap make an ende loop like the first pik but with a longer loop that you fold back on itself to look like this. The leather piece under the hook part of the strap is just thin cardboard. I then stain the straps with highly thinned enamel. It is a longwinded "tutoral" but I like the end results . T
Then cut a strip of paper masking tape and fold it over the "catch loop"
Make a square loop to simulate the adjustment buckle Make another belt and put it through the square loop Make the buckle complete by adding the "slide strip" and trim to size Slip the one end of the strap through the buckle. As for the "hook part" of the lapstrap make an ende loop like the first pik but with a longer loop that you fold back on itself to look like this. The leather piece under the hook part of the strap is just thin cardboard. I then stain the straps with highly thinned enamel. It is a longwinded "tutoral" but I like the end results . T
Make a square loop to simulate the adjustment buckle
Make another belt and put it through the square loop Make the buckle complete by adding the "slide strip" and trim to size Slip the one end of the strap through the buckle. As for the "hook part" of the lapstrap make an ende loop like the first pik but with a longer loop that you fold back on itself to look like this. The leather piece under the hook part of the strap is just thin cardboard. I then stain the straps with highly thinned enamel. It is a longwinded "tutoral" but I like the end results . T
Make another belt and put it through the square loop
Make the buckle complete by adding the "slide strip" and trim to size Slip the one end of the strap through the buckle. As for the "hook part" of the lapstrap make an ende loop like the first pik but with a longer loop that you fold back on itself to look like this. The leather piece under the hook part of the strap is just thin cardboard. I then stain the straps with highly thinned enamel. It is a longwinded "tutoral" but I like the end results . T
Make the buckle complete by adding the "slide strip" and trim to size
Slip the one end of the strap through the buckle. As for the "hook part" of the lapstrap make an ende loop like the first pik but with a longer loop that you fold back on itself to look like this. The leather piece under the hook part of the strap is just thin cardboard. I then stain the straps with highly thinned enamel. It is a longwinded "tutoral" but I like the end results . T
Slip the one end of the strap through the buckle.
As for the "hook part" of the lapstrap make an ende loop like the first pik but with a longer loop that you fold back on itself to look like this. The leather piece under the hook part of the strap is just thin cardboard. I then stain the straps with highly thinned enamel. It is a longwinded "tutoral" but I like the end results . T
As for the "hook part" of the lapstrap make an ende loop like the first pik but with a longer loop that you fold back on itself to look like this.
The leather piece under the hook part of the strap is just thin cardboard. I then stain the straps with highly thinned enamel. It is a longwinded "tutoral" but I like the end results . T
The leather piece under the hook part of the strap is just thin cardboard.
I then stain the straps with highly thinned enamel.
It is a longwinded "tutoral" but I like the end results .
Boy, I'm excited to see this epic undertaking Theuns. Your doing a remarkable job on it so far, that's for sure. The cockpit is very nicely done as well as the engine so far. This is going to be a fun one.
"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin
You are really going the extra mile on this kit. Super nice work on the belts and those rivits, man !!
M. Brindos It all looks great so far, Theuns. I really like the seatbelts. This one is going to be something to keep an eye on. :)
It all looks great so far, Theuns. I really like the seatbelts. This one is going to be something to keep an eye on. :)
Excuse the 'me too' post, but those seatbelts caught my eye, too. They look extremely realistic. That's the way I wish I could make my PE belts look.
And that's not to downplay the rest of your detail work so far, which is excellent.
Looking good so far.
Ty for the WIP , it's very interesting how you do the various "fixes" and additions and I'm watching with great interest and taking notes.
I was not happy with the drilling of the rivets, it was to heavy so I put a cone shaped grinding bit into my dremmel to make new reccessed rivets and the results are allot more subtle.I will do the rest of the airframe the same way.There is a substantial gp under the bottom of the wingroot fairing that will need filling, tht top seam is OK.
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