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Your paint looks stunning, Fantastic!!
BK
On the bench:
A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!
2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed
14 / 5 / 2
I got the gloss clearcoat on and am pleased that the patchy effect was not lost :-)
Theuns
The splinter camo and the mottleing is just top notch, it looks right on the money Thuens! That's a fantastic job you've done!
Toshi
On The Bench: Revell 1/48 B-25 Mitchell
Married to the most caring, loving, understanding, and beautiful wife in the world. Mrs. Toshi
Thanx, I use mostly Humbrol's range of RLM coded enamels thinned about 30% with turps, this makes for a nice thin mix that takes a few passes to cover the besecoat so it gives you some "feel" as to how much will show through.
The mottle I have learned to use a fairly high pressure and hold the nozle no more than about 3/8" from the model, this gives a nice "concentrated" not to loose look.
Oh yes, can see the effect. Really looks good, IMO. Good job on the light spray coat so as not to lose the effect, a technique I've yet to get the hang of when spraying.
Mottling not too shabby, either.
My camera is old and the natural light just after the hailstrom we had not the best but you can just about get the look in these pix....
The mottle is a combo of grey abd green to make the demarcation line between the upper and lower paints a bit softer. Next will be the acrylic clearcoat for pinwash and decals. Theuns
The mottle is a combo of grey abd green to make the demarcation line between the upper and lower paints a bit softer.
Next will be the acrylic clearcoat for pinwash and decals.
TheunsGreg, OI forgot to add, I put a few coats of clear acrylic over the whole section after painting. I also put a drop of dishwash soap in my pinwash to help it to become "thinner" and run into the areas between wires ect better. That is what "gives detail and shadow" to the small details. It is actually wat overdone if one wants to be acurate but without it , it looks wrong...go figure ;-)
Thanks for the additional info on how that good-looking cockpit came to be.
You're idea on the blotchy effect for the top surfaces is a good one, curious if it will reproduce in a pic but happy it looks good in person!
Not all that big really, I would say about 14" span.
I shot te top colours on and the faded "blotchy" effect worked out nicely. On the grey the lighter areas on the base coat was enough but on the green I had a to even look. I aded a drop of white to the green in the AB and sprayed it in some areas.
I didnt want to go mad with it, otherwize it will look overdone, I just hope the gloss clearcoat doesnt tahe away from the effect.
That is really looking sharp! I was never big into German planes but the 110 was one that I actually liked. I definitely can't wait to see how yours turns out. Is it a big model?
Eric
Bottom in RLM 76 Light blau with pre shading.
"Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"
I primed the 110 to see if my rescribing was OK...It went on a little rough so I sanded it withy wet 2000 paper...Needless to say I went through the primer in some places But then the idea struck me - I am going to try a nw tecnique where I use the light spots and add some dark spots to simulate how the paint might fade....hope it works.Theuns
As long as I can see out to 5 miles or more and see the instruments Ill be OK LOL
Greg, OI forgot to add, I put a few coats of clear acrylic over the whole section after painting. I also put a drop of dishwash soap in my pinwash to help it to become "thinner" and run into the areas between wires ect better. That is what "gives detail and shadow" to the small details. It is actually wat overdone if one wants to be acurate but without it , it looks wrong...go figure ;-)
Theuns Those are yellow electricl wirelooms, the pinwash makes it look a little more "brownish" As for the painting, I just use a very fine brush and paint in bright sunlight , helps me see better. Theuns
Those are yellow electricl wirelooms, the pinwash makes it look a little more "brownish"
As for the painting, I just use a very fine brush and paint in bright sunlight , helps me see better.
Thanks for the answer, and tips!
Theuns ....It is just the 15 odd inches between the model and my peepers that becomes a tad blurry. How I pass my flight medical I dont know LOL.
....It is just the 15 odd inches between the model and my peepers that becomes a tad blurry.
How I pass my flight medical I dont know LOL.
Well I suppose the examiner isn't so concerned about you avoiding traffic that is within arm's reach! Good looking cockpit here Theuns.
On the bench: Airfix 1/72 Wildcat; Airfix 1/72 Vampire T11; Airfix 1/72 Fouga Magister
I had to glue the parts together in sections, forming it as I went allog because the fit is not to good, but it works out OK.
I have also started using a correction pen to fill the seams as it sands well ,look at the top of the necell.
Actually my eyes are not to bad...I can see all the way to the stars - far enough I recon. It is just the 15 odd inches between the model and my peepers that becomes a tad blurry.
I got myself a pair of 1.5plus reading glasses at the supermarket and I have to say they really help with modling. Good value for $ at only about 10 USD ;-)
Very nicely detailed.
Really nice detail work there! The older my eyes get the harder it is to do that in 1/32. Can't wait to see what you do with this one.
Mike
tempestjohnnyWow that is really nice detail painting.
I second that. You must have steady hands and nerves of steel. The brownish conduit or whatever it is on the cockpit sidewall got my attention. I make such a mess when I attempt such a thing....
Really nice start there,that pit looks great. Look forward to more.
I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
The pinwash I use is normal artist's acrylic thinned with water , I am sure any of the comercial ones works just was well. It just flows into the small detail to geive some "shadows" to othewize dull looking detail.
The IP was painted grey, then the instrument-faces were done in balck, some switches painted in red/blue. The instrument warning arcs were done on the bevels.All of this got mattcoat. Then I used a fine tip brush to "flood" the instrument faces with normal Tamiya clear acrylic to look like glass. Simple but it works well.
I'm not sure what techniques you've employed here (washes? dry brush?) but the result is outstanding.
What clear acrylic did you use on the IP?
Oops, you mentioned pin wash. I should have read more carefully .
Hector Berlioz
Thanx.
This kit ie strange in that some areas have nice clean detail and moldings and in other areas there is loads of flash to be removed. Maybe it is a combo of different molds. The surface detail is also quite nice, but on the outer section of the left bottom wing the engraving becomes very faint.
Not a big deal, just rescribe that section.
I have the fusealge joined up, it took a liilt "effort" as the halves did not line up 100% but again not th worst I have seen. Maybe after I am done with the 1/32 Tamiya Mustprang I will stop comparing ll builds to it's quality LOL.
What surprised me is that the BF 110 was not as large an aeroplane as I expected it to be, compared to a mustprang , it is not really all than much larger.
Wow, that's some amazing work you've done. I'll be following!
Nice! I like what you did with the stock IP. :)
- Mike Brindos "Lost Boy"
Here is my Revell 1/48 G2R3
Sofr the kit's cockpit detail is really good, I just had to add maskingtape seatbelts, do some "interpretation painting" and do a pinwash to give some "depth"
The IP was done the same but with clear acrylic on the instrument faces to look like glass. Theuns
The IP was done the same but with clear acrylic on the instrument faces to look like glass.
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