WIP - 1/48 Hasegawa Vought AU-1 (F4U-6) Corsair - Completed

I really like the way your engine turned out.  I'll be following lawdog's tutorial as well to spruce up the R-1830 engine on my Wildcat.  Great looking start to your Corsair.  The late versions of the Corsair take on an extra-mean appearance with all the ordinance they carry.  

Hi ridleusmc,

Thanks for your comments.

Yes the tutorial is excellent, if I hadn't come across it I would have a very un-impressive looking radial under the bonnent. This version has the rockets on port and starboard wings along with the option for either two fuel drop tanks or 250Ib bombs, which I'm yet to decide upon.

Damian

Awesome start,  looking forward to more!

Toshi

Thanks Toshi.

I've been keeping an eye on your mossie from the back of the room, great work.

Damian

Thanks for the kind words. Hopefully I can get an update out by weeks end.

I wish that the kit had the parts to have the wings folded up, but as the USMC version was land based it wouldn't be in fitting with this version of the Corsair. I will just need to build USN variant down the track.

Good luck with your build when you get to it.

Thanks

Damian

UPDATE 1/6/17

After taking care of other business (looking for work) I have found some time to spend on finishing the detail work on the R2800 radial and paint and finish the cockpit of the AU-1.

I shot Alclad 2 Aqua Gloss over the radial, then applied the single decal. I gave it about 2 days to dry (whilst I worked on the Mosquito) and gave it a wash of heavily diluted black artist oil paint, and then very lightly dry brushed the bolts and other protrusions. I don’t want the final result of this build to be heavily weathered, just in service for a month or so.

I painted all the cockpit detail (I used the Wolf Pack Design aftermarket cockpit) which at the end of the day I think was a waste of time. The AU-1 from my research didn’t have exposed framing in the cockpit and the upper portions of the cockpit sides were black. Little is seen as it so dark, anyway you learn from your mistakes. I primed all interior components with Black Stynylrez primer, then Zinc Chromate (Tamiya XF-3:2, XF-5:1) on the elements which required it. Then I masked and painted the console and IP with Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black.

The Wolf Pack cockpit came supplied with PE IP bezel. I had intended with drill out all the instrument dials, but when I tried on a scrap piece of PE it didn’t far well for the PE. Instead I sprayed it with Alclad 2 Aqua Gloss and applied the supplied decal. When dried, I used a toothpick to place drops of Aqua Gloss on each of the instrument dials, again very hard to see when in situ.

I hand painted all the appropriate detail (I lacked detail colour photos of the cockpit) so I had to use F4U-4 images as my reference for switches etc.

I added a heavily diluted wash black oil paint to provide minor "grime" and depth. This was followed with a dry brushing silver to show a minor amount of whare in the office.

The assembly in place, almost ready for fuselage to be buttoned up. I decided not to use the supplied side wall parts with the Wolf Pack upgrade, as the detail on them was impossible to see, and more importantly, would require extensive sanding which I just couldn’t be bothered with.

The cockpit still requires the installation of the gun sight and two switch panels either side of the sight. I will have seams to fill along the entire length of the fuselage so they can wait till later.

So next steps are to commence the wing build and associated components, the main landing gear and button up the fuselage.

I’m open to any suggestions/directions on how I can do a better job, so please come forward.

Till next time, Happy Modelling.

Thanks for your kind words.

I sprayed Mr. Paint Matt Varnish over the entire cockpit so the IP will need all the dials to be high glossed again. I can't say enough, how much I really like MRP primers, paints and now varnishes. They shoot smooth, dry quick are ready to AB out of the bottle. The major downside is the smell, even with my spray booth extracting outside it's rather strong.

Thanks for looking in.

Damian

Lovely work on this, great job on that engine, i have not put that tutorial to use yet, definetly looks like you put it to good use.

Thanks again Bish.

I would like a 1/32 or 1/24 scale build where you can really go to town with the detail on a radial.

It would not have been possible unless the orginal author wrote such a great tutorial for me to cut my teeth on.

Thanks again, I really appreciate yours and everyones positive encouragement.

Damian

UPDATE - 9/6/17

So the build has been g   l   a   c   i   e   r  since my last post. I have been spending time trying to finish up my De Haviland Mosquito over on the RAF 100th Aniversery GB. I was able to get the fuselage stiched up, with practically no seam filling required. The Hasegawa was typically VERY light on with the panel lines. So in sanding the seams, I now need to return detail, and I don't have on hand any templates for, more waiting till the next postal delivey arrives.

I also ran into problems with my choice of paint, Mr. Paint's Sea Blue (MRP-014) ANA623. As the colour is used extensively over the entire airframe, undercarriage, landing gear it is important to understand how to;

1. Use the product properly, and

2. Be happy with the choice of colour.

Although I really like the MRP products I have used to date, the paint has ABSOLULEY no helpful suggestion on either the manufactuers website or the product itself (Yes, i found some Youtube videos, but come on). I have, after expermintation worked out that a very low air pressure is required to shoot this paint 10 - 15psi for best results. Even in a conveinet ready to use 30ml bottle I have used over a quarter just getting the spray settings sorted.

And the colour, for me, is not the deep Sea Blue I see in images of F4U's and what my personal expectations are of the colour. So I was able to find some Model Master Acrylic (after reading that other modelers used to good effect)  in what I can assume is the correct FS15042. I shot out of the jar at 15-18psi, thinned with a few drops of distilled water. The results are much closer to what my expectations are of the colour (see below).

So, with all this messing about I didn't get much done.

Airframe glued, and seams filled with CA/sanded, leason learned about using laquer based fillers from the mossie and laquer primers/paints.

Assembly and and priming of all 10 HVAR rockets, fuel drop tanks and prop. Not sure if I will put both the drops tanks on the final build, but all the components are ready for top coating.

Test samples of the Model Masters 4686 Gloss Dark Sea Blue (L) and Mr. Paint MRP-014 Sea Blue (R).

So if I can gather the modeling m o j o, I will set about adding detail to the wheel wells, finish the panel re-scribing, stich up the wing and unite to fuseleage and shot some primer... hopefully!

Till next time, Happy Modeling.

Looking great so far! I love that engine, and it's always good to see a Corsair.

I do love Mr. Paint, and I treat it the same way I treat Alclad, which is what you found with the 10-15 psi for spraying.

I will use higher pressure for a blend coat, but generally my process involves priming with Gunze Mr. Surfacing Finisher 1500 Black, then spraying Mr. Paint in small sections and layering it until it's mostly the final color that has built up (using my SOTAR 20/20 airbrush with 0.2mm nozzle). Then I switch to my Iwata Neo with a 0.35mm nozzle, amp thepressure up to 20 or so, and spray a wider pattern to blend it, and from further away (more like 6 inches) compared to the 1 inch I typically spray at.

As for the color, it's hard to tell in the pictures, but I'm glad you found the shade you're looking for, and I can't wait to see it when you start letting it fly onto the Corsair.

-BD-

Hey BD,

Thanks for dropping in, yeah the motor and cockpit have turned out good. Still need to shoot a very light mist of Tamiya Smoke over the radial to finish it off.

The MRP is an excellent product, and as mentioned, if the company could just add some general parameters for its use it would make life so much easier. I have an Iwata Eclipse CS (.35mm) and a recent addition, the Iwata Revoultion CR (.5mm). They both work extremely well, just need to dial in the pressure.

The photo of the two colours I took at 5.30am this morning (AEST) so my lighing is, err, a bit poor. I will try and take a photo outside when the tempreature rises a little.

Thanks for looking in.

Damian

lawdog114,

Thanks for dropping in and for your comments. The motor was seriously only possible due to your great work you did in spending the time in creating the tutorial, thank you.

MRP is great stuff,  and you wont be disappointed by your choice in purchasing it. I may still change me mind about it's use and hold the Model Masters for another project... I hate when indecision haunts me.

Your an experienced modeller, so you should be fine with its use. I found the primer so far to go down like velvet. My experience with the paint, MRP-014 Sea Blue, was on a white spoon as I dont have a test mule so my results are far from conclusive. But as you can spray, after a good shake, directly from the bottle alone, scores high in my books.

Damian

UPDATE - 20/6/17

I have been able to find time to work on the Corsair, but haven't completed as much as I would have liked.

I finished sanding seams and re-scribing the detail lost in the process to the best of my current ability (I thought the sanding of boat hulls was dull...).

I tried my hand at adding detail in the wheel wells to represent hyrdaulic lines and electrical cable runs, the slection of electrical wire was limited so the end results is not brilliant, but you get the general idea. As it will mostly be hidden when both halves of the wings are joined the effect is adequate.

Primed with Stynylrez ready for MM paint.

Wing halves taped together and fuselage sitting on top for checking fit. I must say, so far this kit has caused no major issues in fit unlike other Hasegawa builds I had encountered in the past. The gap on the starboard wing leading edge between the cannon and air intake closed up when glued.

I had intended in making my own cannon using various brass tubing, as the provided kit version lack realism and, more importantly, detail. The tubing was expensive, so I decided on the Quick Boost resin versions which should do a good job at a fraction of the cost of the tubing. I wouldn't have been able to achieve the same level of detail without a lathe or similar.

Next steps are the mating of fuselage and wing, attaching horizontal stablizers, building undercarriage, masking canopy sections and if all goes to plan in a timely manner, a coat of primer.

Till next update,

Happy Modeling!

I'll be following this one as I generally do with all F4U's - my favorite aircraft with a prop.

I do think your addition of the hydraulic lines and electrical cables adds a lot to the build. You're doing a superb job so far.

In what country do you live? I only ask since the way you express the date is more European than how we do it here.

Mike,

Thanks you for your comments, I appreciate them greatly. Some feel the Coraisr shape to be ugly, I like others, find it be well designed and unique.

No, not European, Australian. I come from a land downunder...

Welcome aboard.

Damian

Sir, you're doing a superb detailed intricate job on this build, I am extremely impressed!

Toshi

P.S. My number one favorite aircraft in the world!  

Hey Toshi,

Thanks, that means alot coming from you, but you mastered the Mossie!

I look forward to building Mr Tamiya's 1/32 F4U version when my birthday comes around next, gives me some thing to look forward too.

Damian

Liking this. I do like the addeddetailin the wheel wells, its just enough without going OTT.

After you Mossie, really looking forwardto seeing what you do with this.

Bish,

Thanks, I hope I can step up the finish with less errors.

Appreciate you looking in.

Damian

UPDATE - 26/6/17

It has been quit a week since my last update, but I have made good progress. My other build, the De Havilland Mosquito is completed and I have decided to go with the MRP Sea Blue over the recently commented MM Glossy Sea Blue. I felt that without an adequate thinner for the MM Acrylic the final finish was very orange peel esk.

After further perseverance with the MRP I have it pretty much nailed with regards to air pressure, it's around 10-12psi max. I was able to build, paint finish all landing gear assemblies, propeller (requires some minor touch up) and wheels/tyres.

On a side note, as I had to purchase the AM decal set to represent the Korean War AU-1, which DID not come with the ID numbers that are located on both gear doors. I did search for US military number decal set's with little luck. So having a creative background, I found an appropriate typeface from one of the thousands I have and created my own mask. I had it cut out by my local sign writer and the results are not too bad for being just 4mm (5/32") in height.

I have also married the fuselage to wing attached the AM resin cannons, rocket and drop/bomb racks.

I did have some filling along the seams, around the oil coolers, areas around the port and starboard leading edge of the wing root but nothing to complex. I did some unnecessary scribing and made work for myself in the long run. As can be seen after priming, more attention is required.

I have been working on polishing the canopy with mixed results, even after sanding with micro mesh 3200 thru 12000, then using NOVUS polish there are still micro scratches. I have tried my 3rd attempt at dipping the clear parts after the before mentioned in the Alclag Aqua Gloss to see if it can be useful for something.

So as the primer is down, and some rectification work to be completed I hope by the next update to have the top coat on, canopy painted, gloss coated and decaling completed ready for final assembly, fingers, toes and tongue crossed.

Till next time, Happy Modelling!

...

You're doing a fantastic job on that Corsair.  Can't wait to see it's final reveal!

Toshi

Thanks Toshi,

I very much appreciate you dropping in for a look.

Once I get a handle on the filling I will send her to the paint shop for your top coat. 

Damian

In my last update I made mention about the process of removing the seam on the canopy. I attempted to use the NOVUS plastic polish with mixed results, namley that it was able to remove the haze from the pre sanding but not allot else.

I tried dipping the post polished canopy in Alclag Aqua Gloss three times and eneded up stripping it off, I really disklike this product.

I ened up purchasing Tamiya's plastic polish range, the difference between the NOVUS and Tamiya products for me is night and day. 95% of the small, very visble scratches that the NOVUS left were able to be removed with the Tamiya product. And using the product another time may almost eliminate the remaining 5%.

Looking good. Nice choice opting for those Quickboost guns, they look nice.