IMO, they look great. Great idea! Now, if you can get them on something stiff to be cut out, they'd be great to use on gear-up planes. Maybe print on clear decal sheet and put on cut out circle of clear plastic? 

Jim  

Really like them, great work! Any chance you'd be willing to share the .PNG files so others can try printing them out too?

PropBlurs make their own photo etch spinning propellers....

http://www.propblur.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html

Usually, the colored stripes on the tips are a complete unbroken circle. They are way too fast for any "breaks" to be apparent. 

I also would say that the blades aren't too visible, although I suppose at lower rpms they could be.

Think about your calculus. At the hub, it appears as a blurred but recognizable object. As the radius from there increases, the object is moving faster as the radius increases. Pretty quickly the ability to recognize each blade disappears.

BS link shows the effect pretty well, although IMO a circle of tip color is about all I'd expect to see, and a general sort of distortion of clarity inside of that.

I disagree with you on the coloured stripes on the tips of the propeller. It all comes to the shutter speed of the camera taking the photo, the slower the shutter speed, the coloured tip will be unbroken but the faster the shutter speed, it will start to break. check the photos below (photos from google)

I think what GMorrison is trying to say is what YOU see with the human eye is going to be one solid circle of color.  If you are trying to go by what a camera picks up then you can just put the props on that come with the kit, lol.  Most of the time the pictures I take stop the props all together, or have just a bit of a blur to them. 

Eye does have a pretty slow shutter speed, between about 1/15 amd 1/30 second.

I create the same type of artwork with my graphics program, then print it on clear decal paper. I then apply the decal to a sheet of transparent plastic.  One nice source is when I buy blank CD or DVD disks.  The package always has a clear one on top.  Otherwise, I always keep a sheet of clear acetate or styrene on hand.

Thanks, Keyda81 and Donn. I think as a modeller, we want to have a snippet of action and create movement in our models, that is why is why we put waves on the sea on our ships and blur the backgrounds on aircraft bases. By doing this, the models become alive and not like a boring static display in a museum.

docipaul

Thanks, Keyda81 and Donn. I think as a modeller, we want to have a snippet of action and create movement in our models, that is why is why we put waves on the sea on our ships and blur the backgrounds on aircraft bases. By doing this, the models become alive and not like a boring static display in a museum.

 

I agree.  I also do taxidermy as a hobby and that is all about making the animal look "alive".  Planes are a bit more exciting when they are moving.  I'm still taken aback when they are just sitting there and I get to see them up close, and touch them.  But nothing is better than my favorite plane(C-130) flying right over my head coming in for a landing.  It will never get old! 

I agree wtih Keyda81 totally. It depends on what, as the modeler, you want to see. IF you want a "snapshot in time" then the broken blur gives that effect. If you want "in motion" then the solid and nearly clear version fits what our eyes and brain see. They both work and I can see myself using both. I used a broken blur on a Corsair because it was based on a photo I was attempting to mimic. In the end it's a very personal choice. Some modelers like blurs, while others dont like them at all. Builders choice.

BK

Printed and tested on a piece of toothpick...

gentle comments guys. ;)

I think the bare disk with the blurred image looks better than the combo of that blur disk and the actual prop.  If the prop has a nice spinner or hub, you can cut the blades off and combine that with the blur disk.

That kit part was just to mount the disc and experiment on it. Definetly when everything is done and happy with the effect, I'll have to cut the propellers fom the hub and just install the spinning prop fx.

They look pretty friggin' close to the photos!