1/32 Hasegawa FW190D-9 WIP (Completed)

plasticjunkie

Thanks Joe.

I'm doing the markings for Gerhard Michalski's D9 from Stab/JG4.

The colors are RLM76, 75 and 83 with a real cool spotted RLM 75 over the RLM 83. The side fuselage mottling is extending behind the side crosses. Instead of using the tail band decals I'm opting to spray paint those instead.

The canopy was riveted, masked, painted RLM66 first then RLM83. The RLM66 will show as the the interior frame color. The salt exposes some chips from foot traffic and wear on the wing walkway. 

The salt chipping exposes a few chips here and there on the outside of the doors. The inside will get the same treatment later on.

The prop unit got the salt chipping too. The MM RLM70 was  not dark enough so a few drops of flat black was added to darken the color a bit. The spiral will be next.

 

 

 

 

Your friend, Toshi

Thanks Joe.

I'm doing the markings for Gerhard Michalski's D9 from Stab/JG4.

The colors are RLM76, 75 and 83 with a real cool spotted RLM 75 over the RLM 83. The side fuselage mottling is extending behind the side crosses. Instead of using the tail band decals I'm opting to spray paint those instead.

The canopy was riveted, masked, painted RLM66 first then RLM83. The RLM66 will show as the the interior frame color. The salt exposes some chips from foot traffic and wear on the wing walkway. 

The salt chipping exposes a few chips here and there on the outside of the doors. The inside will get the same treatment later on.

The prop unit got the salt chipping too. The MM RLM70 was  not dark enough so a few drops of flat black was added to darken the color a bit. The spiral will be next.

plasticjunkie

 

mustang1989

Dang Ernie! This is looking fantastic so far dude. Id've opted for chipping on the inside of the gear bay doors instead of the outside as that's where any stones would hit, but it all looks good anyways. Thanks for taking the time to explain the process. Weathering is one area I do need to work on.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Joe. Great point about the chipping inside the doors. As a matter of fact, that is a detail I will add later on once I get to work on the inside of the doors. I want to add brake lines and placards but don't want any paint there for a positive gluing point for the lines. Once the lines are added then I will shoot the silver, salt and RLM02 for some chipping.

 

Thanks Nick!

mustang1989

Dang Ernie! This is looking fantastic so far dude. Id've opted for chipping on the inside of the gear bay doors instead of the outside as that's where any stones would hit, but it all looks good anyways. Thanks for taking the time to explain the process. Weathering is one area I do need to work on.

 

Thanks Joe. Great point about the chipping inside the doors. As a matter of fact, that is a detail I will add later on once I get to work on the inside of the doors. I want to add brake lines and placards but don't want any paint there for a positive gluing point for the lines. Once the lines are added then I will shoot the silver, salt and RLM02 for some chipping.

Dang Ernie! This is looking fantastic so far dude. Id've opted for chipping on the inside of the gear bay doors instead of the outside as that's where any stones would hit, but it all looks good anyways. Thanks for taking the time to explain the process. Weathering is one area I do need to work on.

its coming along nicely great job on the small stuff.

We had a blast visiting our grandkids, gosh they grow so fast! So the Dora is ready for paint. I shot gloss black in a marbling fashion to give tonal value to the topcoat once it is sprayed. Floquil Old Silver was randombly shot in areas to be chipped.

I'm doing the salt weathering technique. Using some water with a couple of drops of Dawn the area is brushed with the mix and salt sprinkled on. Once dry, most of the salt is removed with a toothpick. I want to have light chipping specially on the foot travel areas on the wings.

The gear doors get some salt for chipping from stones kicked up by the wheels.

The prop was sprayed Floquil Old Silver and selected areas were salted for chipping.

The spinner got the same treatment

I will be probably be having the tank NMF so it was sprayed with AK Extreme Metal Polished Aluminum. As a matter of fact, I see it as a VERY close match to Floquil Old Silver.

I still have to fine tune the salt grains on some of the areas.

Aw ;

 That's alright . I didn't know my daughters crammed Barbie stuff in  the plane box , til we arrived . They couldn't figure out what happened to their heads though ! Yeah , I gave them back after about a week .

goldhammer

PJ, very nice work on her.  Have the F-8 from ROG in 1/32 that will be heading for the bench in a bit, and you have given me ideas for improvements, but weather I can pull them off is another thing entirely.  It has nicely recessed lnes, but not much in rivet detail.  Will have to get one of those andsee if I can pull it off.

 

Thanks GH! Hey I also have the Rog F8 and was hoping that it had the rivets. I wanted to check mine but we are away from home for a couple of days.

PJ, very nice work on her.  Have the F-8 from ROG in 1/32 that will be heading for the bench in a bit, and you have given me ideas for improvements, but weather I can pull them off is another thing entirely.  It has nicely recessed lnes, but not much in rivet detail.  Will have to get one of those andsee if I can pull it off.

Thanks Rambo and D.

D

I bought that set from Micromark at least 15 years ago and comes in very handy once in a while. They also have a Mini punch set that is fantastic.  

The wife and I flew up to SC to visit the grandkids so no modeling for a couple of days. 

Thanks Greg. After separating the spinner from the back plate the gluing areas are clear of any paint for a strong positive clean join. 

Thanks TB. Sorry to hear about your Ju52 not making it.

Johnny and Knight

Thanks for the positive comments. 

Toshi

Wow, looks fantastic!  Awesome detailing!  I wish I had that kind of talent and execution.

Your friend, Toshi

 

Thanks so much Toshi. It's really easy adding them. You just need good references and go slow.

So I says to myself, "self, you will never be a rivet counter.  Nope, not me."  Then I see this thread, and those rivets add a LOT to that kit.

You are doing a great job on this kit PJ.  You are also, as my father used to say, "learning us a thing or two".  Excellent WIP that I will be following.

I went to Micro Mark, and I think I found one of the tools you used.  They call it a Pounce Wheel.  Comes in a set of three sizes.  Is that right?

Thanks,

D

Ach Du Leiber ! 

 I Haff read this tread . Oh Mein Gott ! All those widdle biddy rivets ! Now silliness over , You are doing an amazing amount of work there . Years ago I did AirFixes Ju87 in 1.24 .man was it fun .It didn't survive my trip to Ca. to set up housekeeping .

 I admire what you are doing and will follow this build till it's done . Then I will refer to it for a particular boat build I am doing piecemeal .

plasticjunkie

Greg , the spinner is being held in place temporarily by some Aleene's. After the paint goes on and when dry then the spinner is removed so the rest of the prop hub can be painted in a silver color then re assembled.

Why didn't I think of that? Very clever.

Thanks, Ernie!

Riveting is truly a labor of love - a lot of hours go into that (particularly where you're using the jewelers' tools to get that truly rounded look) and you're absolutely doing a beautiful job of it, PJ! Nice work!

PJ

Yer killin' it with those rivets. Really nicely done. That's the kind of thing that throws it over the top if you get it right, and really drags it down if you don't. Happily, you're firmly in the former camp.

I'm going to make a note of this thread for when I next have a rivet situation. 

Thanks

-J

Wow, looks fantastic!  Awesome detailing!  I wish I had that kind of talent and execution.

Your friend, Toshi

Thanks Jay and you are welcome. You need the help of some kind of guide being masking, dymo tape or thin metal or plastic strip to keep the rivet lines straight and true. I also ordered a jewelers setting beading set for making other rivet types.

Thanks Keyda, dog and Greg.

Greg , the spinner is being held in place temporarily by some Aleene's. After the paint goes on and when dry then the spinner is removed so the rest of the prop hub can be painted in a silver color then re assembled.

I recently got my Rosie the Riveter tools for all 3 scales, so I thought I would practice on a 1/72 P-40 by doing it free hand. Well Ernie, I must again thank you for this post because i can really see the difference between my rivet rows and yours by using a straight edge guide . I will from now on, it's well worth the extra effort to use some kind of guide to apply rivets thanks to your generous post.

Wow, the riviting is really good.

I'd sure like to see how you paint the props. I like the idea of assembling the prop/spinner then painting.

A little work goes a long way!  Coming along nicely!

More riveting

This red tape from HL is perfect for irregular surfaces specially on the hood.

The hood looks better now

The red tape was also used around the cowl ring

I wiped on some washable blue paint to make most of the details easier to see. I made sure not to go too deep to keep it subtle.