1/32 Hasegawa FW190D-9 WIP (Completed)

kensar

I am also building a Hase FW-190, kitted in the mid-1980s.  It has raised rivet and panel line wings and an engraved panel line fuse.  I drilled rivets along the panel lines for days.  I used masking tape marked every couple of mm for the rivet spacing.  It conforms to all the curves.

 

Yes I use thin masking tape, Tamiya plastic tape, Dymo tape  and even strips of electrical tape for certain angles and curves.

Greg

I never had much luck with thin straightedges and rescribing, but I never thought to tape down the straightedge! Duh. Thanks for the common sense tip, Ernie.

All the rivits are looking good.

 

Thanks Greg. The tape is very helpful.

I am also building a Hase FW-190, kitted in the mid-1980s.  It has raised rivet and panel line wings and an engraved panel line fuse.  I drilled rivets along the panel lines for days.  I used masking tape marked every couple of mm for the rivet spacing.  It conforms to all the curves.

I never had much luck with thin straightedges and rescribing, but I never thought to tape down the straightedge! Duh. Thanks for the common sense tip, Ernie.

All the rivits are looking good.

I decided not to go plum loco with rivet counting on this one and will be adding just the basics to add a little more detail to the surface. It's a fine model but Hasegawa should have included at least some of the riveting.

Heck if Jerry Crandall built several of these and didn't do the riveting (at least on some) so that's good enough for me.

The Dora has a ton of riveting and I do mean a TON. I have an old Kookaburra Technical Publications  for the FW 190 and Ta 152 which has some really nice detailed aircraft diagrams showing all the riveting. It's easier to do this task prior to assembling the model so the next one will get ALL of the darn rivets.

I used my Verlinden scribing set for this one, taping down the soft metal ruler to use as a guide. Click on the image for a closeup.

The effect is subbtle and effective. The Micro Mark riveting set does a fine job using slight pressure as the wheel is rolled. I then hit the area with a 4,000 grit pad to knock down the raised plastic.

The flaps are set almost vertical and they just don't look right as is.

Using the UMM saw, I carefully made light cuts on the attachment points and bent them so the flaps would have a lighter angle.

I used some Plast I Weld on the bend points to weld shut the cuts and let them dry overnight. Now the angle is lesser and looks better.

The prop spinner was also missing the riveting

I carefully rolled the riveting tool on the spinner.

Now to do the rest of the wings and some riveting on the fuselage, again just the basics.

Thanks Greg. Yes the belts were a hasle to put together but they turned out ok. I find 1/32 a bit easier to add details to. I have a 1/24 George that will be a blast to super detail.

Regardless of all the trouble, the belts look good from my chair, Ernie. Kudos for pressing on even though you hated them.

Don't recall seeing so much detail in a wheel well before. Very cool.

I keep saying my next airplane model is going to be 1/32. You might have pushed me over the edge.

It's been a while since I posted so here is a small update. I'm gonna add the fuel tank to my Dora and it's nice OOB but

I'm not happy how the plastic fuel lines look. First I drilled where the lines plug into the fuselage.

and bent my own out of soft wire. It needs some minor adjustments and will be glued after the paint goes on.

Looks like Miss Dora is ready for the paint shop very soon

Thanks Johnny. The only thing that keept them down was Aleene's Glue. I will be going back to the Eduard belts in the future.

PJ

Looking really good—those wheel wells look great. 

Sorry if the HGW belts were a bum steer! They really are a PITA to put together, but I thought worth it--maybe scale, or style (maybe the USN belts are somehow better than Luftwaffe or something). A wash helped them "sit" in a little better for me. 

-J

It was buy it now price and a fresh listing last Sunday morning. It came in the mail Friday.

Ohhhhh yeahhh. ..i will ...ohhh yeah I will ..ebay eh ...did you bid or buy outright

5h

Try ebay. I just got another Hasegawa 1/32 Dora for $17! Once in a while a great deal pops up.

I thought about replacing the cannons with brass tubing but I just got some Gyros mini drill bit replacements and they ate up that plastic really quick.

I don't envy your weather up there with all that snow. Stay warm!

Hello plastic j

I see you have made plenty of progress on your D-9 ..i thought of drilling out the kits canon too ..but I desided on useing brass  tubeing. Looks good ..i had issues with that front piece too .other than that it whent together great ..too bad no one Carrys hasegawa kits in Prince George bc. I have to find out hobby stores in city and towns I travel to while working on the railroad. It's tough not meny stores do ..if I had a choice i.d buy way more of those kits ..not much bench time lately cuss im working grave yard shift sence the big dump of snow were getting here ..(snow removal)..from rail switches and such..hopefully I'll get a day of so I get much bench time ..my dora is calling for some attention .  But I do have wip picks to share.

Devil Dawg

The kit is a good-fitting kit, except for where the front of the bottom part of the wing (I hope that makes sense) butts up against the bottom of the engine area. It kept popping apart on me, even after multiple attempts at it, using different glues.

 

This must be the part that you are talking about Gary. It's a bit tricky to attach and a prime candidate for Plast I Weld glue that will melt the bonding areas solid.

It took lots of dry fitting and a couple of DeWalt clamps to get it to sit evenly then I hit it with Plast I Weld in a Touch N Flow applicator. The two sharp tips broke off and two tiny white plastic sheet triangles were fitted and melted in place by the glue. This is the only part so far that required some work for a god fit.

The wells were painted RLM02 and more lines were added along with a grime wash. Click on the image for an extreme closeup.

The cannon shell ejector locations were dressed up in the wing interior otherwise it's just dead space when viewed thru the ammo ejection slots. Pieces of plastic sheet were cut and placed where the cannon would be.

I feared that paint would give a poor bonding surface to these parts eventually becoming loose inside the wing so they will pe painted black after assembly. Now there's something there intead od dead space.

The tiny hood scoop was drilled open

And so were the wing cannons and nose guns

Beginning to look like a Dora

Hi Gary. So far everything is fitting like a glove as most Hasegawa kits do so I will see once I get to that tricky part.

Well I finally got the HGW belts and man they are a PITA to put together. As a matter of fact I wasn't impressed at all with them. You have to cut these things and the printed cut line is way off cause it's too wide for the pe buckles. I had to trim off more material so it would fit thru the pe buckle. By doing this, most of the printed stitching is lost. It took me 2 evenings to assemble these belts but the Eduard PE ones only takes me a few minites.

The package has another belt to be assembled and I will use it simply because I have it but I will not be getting this product again. I also had to paint the back side since it's just blank.

I drilled two holes with a #80 bit to attach the shoulder belts with very thin wire. I think the PE belts look better and have more detail than these but they will stay regardless.

I also used my mini drill bit to drill out the exhaust pipes and carefully cleaned them up with a blade.

Hi, plasticjunkie! I built that kit about 4 years ago, painted in JV44 markings (red & white stripes on the bottom of the wings and fuselgae). The kit is a good-fitting kit, except for where the front of the bottom part of the wing (I hope that makes sense) butts up against the bottom of the engine area. It kept popping apart on me, even after multiple attempts at it, using different glues. I have since forgetten how I finally got it to stay glued together. There's a thread on here somewhere that I posted of the build (not sure how to search the threads for it), but it'll show more precisely what I'm talking about.

Your engine bay looks MUCH BETTER than my did - I just used the the kit stuff. The only aftermarket stuff I used was the Eduard cockpit set, and even then it was only the instrument panel items - nothing else.

Goos Luck with it!!

Gary Mason

Greg

That is looking great, Ernie.  This will be fun to watch**, thank for the WIP.

I've built a handful of 190's, all in 1/48th so I look fwd to seeing the additional detail in 1/32nd.

BTW, you Floridians crack me up. Complaining about 40's being cold. Oh, how I hate it up here in the mid-friggin-west this time of year. <----meaning me

 

Thanks Greg for dropping by.  Yes when it gets in the 40s here lots of people complaint, including me LOL. Cold weather has never bothered me till recently. I guess old age made me thin skinned with the temps. I don't know how some folks can endure the northern climates.

KnightTemplar5150

Thank you for going out of your way to share with those of us who don't normally visit the group builds, PJ. That's very considerate of you to do, particularly when you're sharing a project like this. Much obliged and looking forward to watching your progress with this build!

 

You are welcome KT and thanks for your kind words. I'm glad you are enjoying my build.

That is looking great, Ernie.  This will be fun to watch**, thank for the WIP.

I've built a handful of 190's, all in 1/48th so I look fwd to seeing the additional detail in 1/32nd.

BTW, you Floridians crack me up. Complaining about 40's being cold. Oh, how I hate it up here in the mid-friggin-west this time of year. <----meaning me

Thank you for going out of your way to share with those of us who don't normally visit the group builds, PJ. That's very considerate of you to do, particularly when you're sharing a project like this. Much obliged and looking forward to watching your progress with this build!

Thanks Johnny. Yes those belts sound fantastic.

PJ: Looking great! 

And +1 with Bish about the HGW belts—even one sided, they're a massive step up from PE. (And I bet you could figure out the second side if you needed to, especially in 1/32.)

-J

Thanks Toshi. Still lots of things to add to it.

Bish

Looking forward to getting these belts.

Beautiful scratchwiring work for the engines.  Looking forward to more!

Your friend,Toshi

PJ, just saw your comment on the HGW belts. They are deffinetly far better than PE ones. They are a bit fiddly to put together, and only printed on one side (though i think the newer ones may be 2 sided, not sure) but they look so much better and much reasier to get a realistic look to them laying in the pit. I have switched completly to them for 32nd kits now, even if i buy a PE set that includers belts, i still get the HGW ones.

Thanks K. I've heard of those too so thanks for the suggestion. Before I toss any electronic piece I take it apart and look for interesting parts to keep that will come in handy at scratch work.

The pit is looking real good.

Guitar strings are also good for a flex hose kind of look.

Thanks guys for following along!

The first day of 2018 has been a very lazy and relaxed day.  It's been raining the entire day, very windy and cold in the 40's. The wife has been watching tv the whole day so it's been a perfect modeling day.

Got the IP done

and the pit tub

I still have to do some more weathering and light griming. I thought I had PE belts but I don't have any so I ordered a set from HGW which are supossed to be fantastic and better than the PE ones.

I also added more lines. I also made my own braided line by wrapping thin copper wire around another wire then painted it grey.

I'll be ernestly watching ( pun intended  and as always learning from your vast treasure house of skills.