1/48 Accurate Miniatures B-25 B "Doolittle Raid" (Finished)

mustang1989

I hear you on a result that's not necessarily your cup of tea. In any case you continue to turn out great looking aircraft and I always end up learning alot from you.

I love having you along Joe......and thanks! 

lawdog114

 

mustang1989

 

 

lawdog114

 

mustang1989

I really need to start hanging back out in here so I can catch these quality builds. I've been watching the black basing technique and the color in with grey as well and it's probably the technique I'll use with my Arado build that I'm looking at. All the details and paint are just top notch with this build. Way to go bro.

 

 

 

 

Thanks Joe.  Again, nice to have you back in here.  I personally don't care for the black basing stuff.  The pebbly look it gives just doesn't look right to my eye.  Eye of the beholder I guess.  I do however like the black/white and will use it again I think.  Thanks again for stopping by bud.  

 

 

 

 

Thanks bud, it feels good being back in here amongst the winged crowd.

It all depends on what you're layin that black base down with and what you're using paint wise when it comes to the flat black there Joe. I usually prime all of my black auto builds with flat black. I use a Badger 350 AB and Testors Flat Black in their One Coat Lacquer System and dispense it from the can into a paint jar. Then I shoot it on in light coats until I've got some decent coverage and then open the needle up to get a good coat on. I have no problems getting flat black basecoat to go down using that method.

My Revell '56 Ford F-100 "Demon II" truck got the flat black primer using the method desribed above with a coat of semi gloss black and then a coat of "Wet Look" gloss. All exterior paints here are Testors One Coat Lacquer System (except the flames which was Alclad II) dispensed and shot through a Badger 350.

  

Now that Ford looks awesome Joe! I’ve tried it a few times using NATO black XF-69 as my base. It just seemed like too much work for the result which I don’t particularly care for When finished. Too splotchy.  I prefer shading Then some streaking. To each their own I suppose. Maybe I’ll try it again someday. 

 

I too am on the fence when it comes to black basing. I've got a Zero on the bench where I'm going to try it as well as an armor model. Jury is still out.

Tickmagnet

Great build

 

Thanks tickmagnet...

MrStecks

Sounds like a difficult build, but your results are fantastic.  Love the painting and weathering, and that little bit of the Hornet's deck underneath.  Great plane, great presentation. 

Cheers,
Mark

 

Thanks Mark..

mustang1989

 

 

lawdog114

 

mustang1989

I really need to start hanging back out in here so I can catch these quality builds. I've been watching the black basing technique and the color in with grey as well and it's probably the technique I'll use with my Arado build that I'm looking at. All the details and paint are just top notch with this build. Way to go bro.

 

 

 

 

Thanks Joe.  Again, nice to have you back in here.  I personally don't care for the black basing stuff.  The pebbly look it gives just doesn't look right to my eye.  Eye of the beholder I guess.  I do however like the black/white and will use it again I think.  Thanks again for stopping by bud.  

 

 

 

 

Thanks bud, it feels good being back in here amongst the winged crowd.

It all depends on what you're layin that black base down with and what you're using paint wise when it comes to the flat black there Joe. I usually prime all of my black auto builds with flat black. I use a Badger 350 AB and Testors Flat Black in their One Coat Lacquer System and dispense it from the can into a paint jar. Then I shoot it on in light coats until I've got some decent coverage and then open the needle up to get a good coat on. I have no problems getting flat black basecoat to go down using that method.

My Revell '56 Ford F-100 "Demon II" truck got the flat black primer using the method desribed above with a coat of semi gloss black and then a coat of "Wet Look" gloss. All exterior paints here are Testors One Coat Lacquer System (except the flames which was Alclad II) dispensed and shot through a Badger 350.

 

Now that Ford looks awesome Joe! I’ve tried it a few times using NATO black XF-69 as my base. It just seemed like too much work for the result which I don’t particularly care for When finished. Too splotchy.  I prefer shading Then some streaking. To each their own I suppose. Maybe I’ll try it again someday. 

jeaton01

Masterful job, Joe.  I have a bunch of the Verlinden Tarmac but no carrier deck.  You wouldn't be able to scan it, would you?

Too late now, but on my build log I have a page showing what I did for nose weight.  Since I have several kits and one had the original weights I weighed them, 46 grams.  For the kit I build I hammered about that amount of lead weights into the appropriate shapes and stuck them in pretty much the same place the kit weights were to go.

http://www.yolo.net/%7Ejeaton/mymodels/b25/1b25/0041b25.html

 

Thanks John. No I have no way of scanning it. It comes in one sheet and it’s sort of a rip off at $14.00. I cut it up to use with a few bases. It’s nothing fancy. Here it is

https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Buildings/VER00001262/product.php?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpcHV7qCN4AIVlIizCh1gyAoqEAQYASABEgKAWvD_BwE

Thanks for the info on the nose weight. I’ll remember it for next time. 

RadMax8

Another lawdog masterpiece. Looks great, wouldn’t be modeling without something fighting you, right?

Quick question, when you lightened the control surfaces, did you mix Tamiya with MMP, or did you just put XF57 directly over the MMP? Thanks...

 

Thanks Max! I added the buff right to the Mission Models paint in my paint cup. Just a few drops. They are both acrylic so it’s not an issue. 

Great build

Sounds like a difficult build, but your results are fantastic.  Love the painting and weathering, and that little bit of the Hornet's deck underneath.  Great plane, great presentation. 

Cheers,
Mark

lawdog114

 

mustang1989

I really need to start hanging back out in here so I can catch these quality builds. I've been watching the black basing technique and the color in with grey as well and it's probably the technique I'll use with my Arado build that I'm looking at. All the details and paint are just top notch with this build. Way to go bro.

 

 

 

 

Thanks Joe.  Again, nice to have you back in here.  I personally don't care for the black basing stuff.  The pebbly look it gives just doesn't look right to my eye.  Eye of the beholder I guess.  I do however like the black/white and will use it again I think.  Thanks again for stopping by bud.  

 

Thanks bud, it feels good being back in here amongst the winged crowd.

It all depends on what you're layin that black base down with and what you're using paint wise when it comes to the flat black there Joe. I usually prime all of my black auto builds with flat black. I use a Badger 350 AB and Testors Flat Black in their One Coat Lacquer System and dispense it from the can into a paint jar. Then I shoot it on in light coats until I've got some decent coverage and then open the needle up to get a good coat on. I have no problems getting flat black basecoat to go down using that method.

My Revell '56 Ford F-100 "Demon II" truck got the flat black primer using the method desribed above with a coat of semi gloss black and then a coat of "Wet Look" gloss. All exterior paints here are Testors One Coat Lacquer System (except the flames which was Alclad II) dispensed and shot through a Badger 350.

Marvelous Joe. =] Well captured. 

Masterful job, Joe.  I have a bunch of the Verlinden Tarmac but no carrier deck.  You wouldn't be able to scan it, would you?

Too late now, but on my build log I have a page showing what I did for nose weight.  Since I have several kits and one had the original weights I weighed them, 46 grams.  For the kit I build I hammered about that amount of lead weights into the appropriate shapes and stuck them in pretty much the same place the kit weights were to go.

http://www.yolo.net/%7Ejeaton/mymodels/b25/1b25/0041b25.html

Another lawdog masterpiece. Looks great, wouldn’t be modeling without something fighting you, right?

Quick question, when you lightened the control surfaces, did you mix Tamiya with MMP, or did you just put XF57 directly over the MMP? Thanks...

Greatmaker

Lovely piece of work Joe.  I really like how the fading and the control surfaces turned out. Plus those insignias look fantastic.  I know it was a bear of a kit but you sure did whip it into shape in true Lawdog style.

 

Thanks Robert.  I'm glad your back in here.   

mustang1989

I really need to start hanging back out in here so I can catch these quality builds. I've been watching the black basing technique and the color in with grey as well and it's probably the technique I'll use with my Arado build that I'm looking at. All the details and paint are just top notch with this build. Way to go bro.

 

Thanks Joe.  Again, nice to have you back in here.  I personally don't care for the black basing stuff.  The pebbly look it gives just doesn't look right to my eye.  Eye of the beholder I guess.  I do however like the black/white and will use it again I think.  Thanks again for stopping by bud.  

RebelPilot42

I picked up this kit a few months ago at small modeling show. The underside of one of the wings is signed by navigatior of the "Whirling Dervish" Tom Griffin. It was great to see your build before I start mine. It turned out beautifullly!

 

Nice!....and thanks.  I hope you plan to do a build thread.  The next time I take a crack at this one I'm doing Doolittle's ride.  

Lovely piece of work Joe.  I really like how the fading and the control surfaces turned out. Plus those insignias look fantastic.  I know it was a bear of a kit but you sure did whip it into shape in true Lawdog style.

I really need to start hanging back out in here so I can catch these quality builds. I've been watching the black basing technique and the color in with grey as well and it's probably the technique I'll use with my Arado build that I'm looking at. All the details and paint are just top notch with this build. Way to go bro.

I picked up this kit a few months ago at small modeling show. The underside of one of the wings is signed by navigatior of the "Whirling Dervish" Tom Griffin. It was great to see your build before I start mine. It turned out beautifullly!

JacknewbIII

I love the subject and appreciate the dtailed post on the AM kit as I have been eying this one for quite some time. You really did a stunning job with the build and the painting on this one congrats!

 

Thanks Jack ..

Ole

Stunning work. Very inspirational.!

 

Thanks Ole. 

I love the subject and appreciate the dtailed post on the AM kit as I have been eying this one for quite some time. You really did a stunning job with the build and the painting on this one congrats!

Stunning work. Very inspirational.!

Tosh

Fantastic work sir!

Your friend, Toshi

 

Thanks Toshi....

Shipwreck

Really fine B-25, lawdog. Especially excellent paint job; both top and bottom!

 

Thanks Ship....yes the Mission Models OD is growing on me. 

Keyda81

Very nice lawdog! 

 

Thanks Keyda

Fantastic work sir!

Your friend, Toshi

Very nice lawdog! 

Wolfman_63

Came out great! I finished mine last week. I did not have the issues with the fit of the front clear parts but a big YES that the kit decals are horrible. (I used the nose art as seen in the movie and made my own decal. The only decal I did not have problems with) I also had the same issue with nose weights. I filled the area behind the dashboard, the rear of the nose gear bay, and weights just behind the engines and it was still not enough. I should have weighed the weights I used as I was at least 2 ounces too light. I ended up mounting it to an aircraft carrier deck base and using 1/48 scale rope to create the tie downs as seen in the historical photos.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/180693.aspx

Just a quick note the Ruptured Duck carried three 500lbs and one 100lbs incendiary cluster bomb. From what I have been able to find out, the payload varied slightly with each aircraft depending on their assigned target.

 

Thanks Dave. Thanks for the info on the bombs. I’m not gonna sweat it though. 

Rambo

Beautiful build lawdog I'm really impressed with your base what did you use to create it?

 

Thanks! It’s an old Verlinden cardboard sheet I glued to a piece of wood. Nothing fancy. 

Came out great! I finished mine last week. I did not have the issues with the fit of the front clear parts but a big YES that the kit decals are horrible. (I used the nose art as seen in the movie and made my own decal. The only decal I did not have problems with) I also had the same issue with nose weights. I filled the area behind the dashboard, the rear of the nose gear bay, and weights just behind the engines and it was still not enough. I should have weighed the weights I used as I was at least 2 ounces too light. I ended up mounting it to an aircraft carrier deck base and using 1/48 scale rope to create the tie downs as seen in the historical photos.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/180693.aspx

Just a quick note the Ruptured Duck carried three 500lbs and one 100lbs incendiary cluster bomb. From what I have been able to find out, the payload varied slightly with each aircraft depending on their assigned target.

keavdog

That turned out really nice despite your issues.  Great tribute.

 

Thanks John..

That turned out really nice despite your issues.  Great tribute.

Thank the lord I am done.  It's been quite some time since I've had something this challenging on my bench. I had quite a few issues with this kit, some self inducted, some not.  For starters, the nose weights I horked from the C/D kit I had in the stash were not sufficient to keep the tail from dragging.  I only discovered this when I added the landing gears, so by this time it was way to late to add more.  My solution was to add a brass pin to the front wheel with a corresponding hole in the base to hold it down. 

Next, the glass, mostly the front end, fit like dogsh#t.  I eventually got tired of messing with all of them and went with good enough.  I tried to blend in the bottom of the windshield with the body using Perfect Plastic Putty and I liked how it turned out.  Then I removed the masks only to find that the putty seeped under the windshield leaving white residue inside the glass.... I was able to wash most of it out with water on a paint brush.  I ultimately sealed the area with Micro Crystal Clear mixed with some Mission paint. It surprisingly worked ok.  I should have done that in the first place.   

The decals are crap.  Don't use them. You will regret it. 

Overall, I must say I'm fairly happy with it. It's been a long time since I've done a bomber.  Additions to this kit were Quickboost seats and 50 cal barrels. The main markings were painted on with Montex masks.           

My research showed that Doolittle bombers carried 4 500 pounders and they were either light grey or yellow.  After seeing this picture I went with grey.  

I'm going to do Doolittle's plane eventually.  Hopefully it will go smoother.  Thanks for following.  

Mopar Madness

So I’ve been thinking about buying a set or two of those Montex marking masks for a couple Luftwaffe subjects.  Looks like you got fantastic results!  

 

Do it. Once you get the hang of them they are well worth it. 

Tanker - Builder

Hi Lawdog114 :

 Sorry to chime in so late .Health and such have me playing ketchup .Oops ! Catch-Up

 I have the old Monogram Bird and the old Revell one and I think I have an Italeri one too .I always liked the big Greenhouse . now that said , at $1,300.00 a pop I flew my restored one rather than go commercial . You shouldhave heard tower reactions when I cam into sight !

 The Razorback Wing CAF was my flight . Now I fly a modeling desk at a Museum ! Oh well , the models bring back some fond memories .  T.B. I am sorry , I think you are doing a Kick A#$ed job .

 

 

 

That certainly sounds interesting. Nice to have you along tank.

Rambo

It's looking great I'm really going to have to get me some of them masks painted on looks so much better than decal.

 

Thanks Rambo. Indeed the masks work great ( except for the occasional operator error). 

bvallot

Very nice so far Joe. No surprise.

Digital cameras make it difficult from the viewer's perspective to know the color actually in occurring due to the white balance. Only the photographer knows for sure. ;) I think you're right though. Possibly a little grey. Your fading method is working nicely and may be responsible for some of that greyer tone. I think it works though. Any browner or greener tone you want can be achieved after the fact with extra weathering. The undersurface looks amazing! The insignia also looks the part on top that wing. Nice save! =]

 

Thanks Britt.  Actually that’s the real color. My iPhone does a pretty good job, enough to where I have completely replaced my Nikon with it. I used to have white balance issues with my Nikon. I’m certainly no photography expert though.

Hobbie

I'm always amazed at that sheen you got on your birds, the steel really looks like steel... great job as usual, Joe!

 

Thanks Hobbie.  It’s just Alclad with a wash on it. 

redraider56

Looks great, Joe!  I think the OD came out good.  The Doolittle birds weren't the cleanest so I think the weathered look looks spot on.

 

Thanks Raider. I did a little experimenting on this plane, and I’m pretty happy with it. I was going for faded but not too bad.

rooster513

Lovely paint Joe! Those painted insignia really make a difference. Looking forward to the finish

 

Thanks Rooster

So I’ve been thinking about buying a set or two of those Montex marking masks for a couple Luftwaffe subjects.  Looks like you got fantastic results!  

Hi Lawdog114 :

 Sorry to chime in so late .Health and such have me playing ketchup .Oops ! Catch-Up

 I have the old Monogram Bird and the old Revell one and I think I have an Italeri one too .I always liked the big Greenhouse . now that said , at $1,300.00 a pop I flew my restored one rather than go commercial . You shouldhave heard tower reactions when I cam into sight !

 The Razorback Wing CAF was my flight . Now I fly a modeling desk at a Museum ! Oh well , the models bring back some fond memories .  T.B. I am sorry , I think you are doing a Kick A#$ed job .

Very nice so far Joe. No surprise.

Digital cameras make it difficult from the viewer's perspective to know the color actually in occurring due to the white balance. Only the photographer knows for sure. ;) I think you're right though. Possibly a little grey. Your fading method is working nicely and may be responsible for some of that greyer tone. I think it works though. Any browner or greener tone you want can be achieved after the fact with extra weathering. The undersurface looks amazing! The insignia also looks the part on top that wing. Nice save! =]

I'm always amazed at that sheen you got on your birds, the steel really looks like steel... great job as usual, Joe!

Looks great, Joe!  I think the OD came out good.  The Doolittle birds weren't the cleanest so I think the weathered look looks spot on.

Lovely paint Joe! Those painted insignia really make a difference. Looking forward to the finish

So where was I?  Well It's been a rough road with this turkey so far (as you will see), but I'm getting there.  This will be a long one so please bear with me.  I got to work on the paint scheme. I fired down the underside with a mix of XF-53 Neutral Grey and XF-19 Sky Grey.  I used Blue Tac for the demarcation lines. Nothing fancy.

Time for the drab.  I was watching a guy on You Tube use a "black and white technique" on a tank with Olive Drab, which I though was cool.  It's basically painting everything black then filling in the center panels with white.  It's supposed to give the final finish a faded look. What the heck...I tried it.

I tried out USAAF Mission Models Olive Drab 41 for this project. I wanted to see if it looks better than my normal Gunze Drab.   

I have mixed feelings about it.  Maybe too grey?  I don't know.  I think I still prefer Gunze. We'll see.... 

I added some XF-57 buff and faded the control surfaces.

Engines and cowls attached...

The reason I rig my radials.....a lot can be seen in there.

I did some postshading with diluted XF-69 NATO Black and XF-64 Red Brown....

I tried to add a little extra around the engines...

I managed to find a set of Montex masks for the markings from a place in France (The Doolittle sheet is hard to find). When they finally arrived I got busy. 

I was pleased with most of the results. I faded the upper insignia with white a bit to represent some sun fading, however, I wasn't happy with it ended and up sanding and respraying it.  I didn't like how some white leaked which gave the circle a white "edge".  It seems these can be reused.    

I added an Alclad Aqua clear coat then realized I was having major pebbling issues in certain spots....... I sanded most of it out the best I could and eventually went with good enough.  I then went to add the only two decals used, the duck cartoon and date block on the port side, only to find these were utter garage and fell apart.  Apparently decals weren't Accurate Miniatures specialty.  Frantically I took to Ebay where I fortunately found someone offering Academy's sheet.  Thankfully these worked fine. 

I added a Flory wash...

See......much better on the second attempt. I'm glad I repainted it.

The duck.....

Next I'll be adding some oil washes....

Mikeym_us

Thought I would let you know that My uncle helped to design the Norden bombsight. And I have a 25th anniversary book on the 15th AF in which Jimmy DooLittle was the CO back in 1943.

 

Very cool info!  Thanks for stopping by.  

ChrisJH666

Very impressive model. Waiting to see the finished article. Also fascinating to read and compare the posts of two people both building a "Doolittle Raiders" B25 at the same time!

 

Thanks Chris. I had a Ruptured Duck decal mishap. Fortunately I found another set on eBay. I should have some updated pics shortly. Thanks for following!

bvallot

Ha! Nope. I'm making lemonade over here the best I can. My photos are terrible and half of them have parts of my kitchen in the background. lol

 

Y'all have a safe, happy New Years! =]

 

When life gives you lemons, make lemonade bro!  Happy New Years to you as well. 

Very impressive model. Waiting to see the finished article. Also fascinating to read and compare the posts of two people both building a "Doolittle Raiders" B25 at the same time!

Ha! Nope. I'm making lemonade over here the best I can. My photos are terrible and half of them have parts of my kitchen in the background. lol

Y'all have a safe, happy New Years! =]

Bish

S9ome very nice work there, those engines look amazing.

 

Thanks Bish. Merry Christmas!

S9ome very nice work there, those engines look amazing.

Mopar Madness

Well I’m a sucker for a nice engine, and those are nice engines!  Also, I’m loving the rivet detail on the fuselage. I’m really thinking I need one of these!

 

Thanks Chad.  Indeed AM did a nice job on the details.  You do need one of these. 

Merry Christmas! 

GMorrison

A good reason to mark the line with different physical objects is because one couldn't see the mark at night, during which it was entirely probable that one would be making port during dark hours.

That bomb sight reminds me of the converging light system kluged up for the Dam Busters in Operation Chastise. It turned the parameters of aircraft speed and altitude into an angle at which the bomb would be released. Also, the Norden was not an effective low level sight.

 

Indeed...it was designed for high level bombing. It was apparently quite the work of art in it's day.  I read that the Norden costed thousands and the Twain cost pennies.  I though that was sort of funny.  

Merry Christmas G!

CapnMac82

24 years USN, 3rd gemneration, the obvious to me is not always so for others.

That's ok.....thanks for putting it into layman's terms for me.  It made much more sense.  Again, thanks for following and Merry Christmas! 

......and thank you for your service..

RadMax8

Hey lawdog,

Glad to see you making good progress on this bird. I’m looking forward to seeing it finished! If you get a chance, you should read Doolittle’s biography. That guy had quite the aviation career!

I started the D model as Dirty Dora back before I graduated college. It ended up on my shelf of doom due to time. If I ever get some more bench time (not bloody likely), I’d love to finish it. Maybe I’ll beat the decade mark, lol!

 

Nice to have you Max.  I wish I had time to read.  I barely have time to sleep anymore.  No time like now to drag that D back out.  Merry Christmas bud!   

A good reason to mark the line with different physical objects is because one couldn't see the mark at night, during which it was entirely probable that one would be making port during dark hours.

That bomb sight reminds me of the converging light system kluged up for the Dam Busters in Operation Chastise. It turned the parameters of aircraft speed and altitude into an angle at which the bomb would be released. Also, the Norden was not an effective low level sight.

Well I’m a sucker for a nice engine, and those are nice engines!  Also, I’m loving the rivet detail on the fuselage. I’m really thinking I need one of these!

lawdog114

I must confess I have no idea what any of that means, so I clearly was not a riverboat captain in a past life…LOL

24 years USN, 3rd gemneration, the obvious to me is not always so for others.

Simple and short.  You are sailing a boat about and you'd rather not hit the bottom.  But, you can't see it.  What to do.  You take a rope with a weight on it and mark it up are precises lenghts.  A leather thong at 6'; two at 12'; a bit of rag at 18' and so on to a standard pattern.  (As much as 60' worth.)  Guy at front of boat drops line in water and yells back the depth.

Riverboat has a similar problem, but, they use a stick.  Imagine here a broom handle 18'-20' long or so.  Stick has a leather thong at 6'; two at 12' with black paint also put on.  Dude stands at the front and pokes the stick in the water until it hits bottom.  And yells back how deep (using riverboat-specific lingo)

. Again, thanks for stopping in and taking the time to explain how it got its name.

Well, it's a good thread.  On a topic much covered at Surface Warefare SChool.  And, I'm just happy to be able to log in again.  All good.

Hey lawdog,

Glad to see you making good progress on this bird. I’m looking forward to seeing it finished! If you get a chance, you should read Doolittle’s biography. That guy had quite the aviation career!

I started the D model as Dirty Dora back before I graduated college. It ended up on my shelf of doom due to time. If I ever get some more bench time (not bloody likely), I’d love to finish it. Maybe I’ll beat the decade mark, lol!

CapnMac82

 

 

lawdog114

I have no idea what Mark Twain had to do with strategic bombing, but here's what it looked like.

 

 

Old-fashioned reference.  The riverboats did thoe use a lead ("LEEd") line with a weight and rope maked in fathoms.  (A souning line has a weight, called a lead--"lehd"--after its material, bbut to sounding line leads--"leeds"--the ship away from shoal water.)

The riverboats used a shounding pole since river waters were shallower.  The pole was given paint stripes--"marks" along its length for depth.  The leadman--"LEEd mahn" would call out the depth as the pole was sounded on the bottom per the "marks."  So, "by the Mark, Twain" was to say that the pole showed the bottom at two fathoms, 12 feet (3.65m), which was generally safe water for riverboats, which drew (submerged hull depth) about 5-6 feet of water.

Depths between the marks was called in quarters and halves.  So, 1.5 fathoms was "Half One."  1.75 fathoms was "Quarter less Twain."  2.25 Fathoms would be "Quarter Twain" and so on.  Three was either "Trey" or "Tree," and four was typically "FOE-ah" for clarity.

The laster were less common, as 'safe' water was twelve feet, and you needed about a 24 foot long pole for that.  So, a line was more useful over 2 fathoms' depth.

So, a stick for measuring things might be called a "twain pole."

The heyday of riverboats would hae just finished as these pilots' lies were just beginning, so the terminology would be familiar to their forebears and themselves.  If incredibly remote to those of our era.  Particularly those who have no notion of the "why" of area codes, or "toll free" calling.

 

Thanks for dropping in and the explanation.  I must confess I have no idea what any of that means, so I clearly was not a riverboat captain in a past life…LOL.  Again, thanks for stopping in and taking the time to explain how it got its name.

bvallot

Coming together nicely. By the way, I was browsing through some things I’ve missed over the pass few months and saw your new bench set up. Not a bad set up at all. I’m still sitting at the kitchen table for better lighting at the moment. Just got my work bench where I want it but don’t have a stool or the lights I need to model with. One day I’ll catch up to you guys.

 

Thanks Britt. From the work I’ve seen from you I would’ve thought you had a professional studio… LOL.

It’s still a work in progress, the movers broke my bench, so I had to borrow a collapsible table for now. I’m not crazy about it but it works. I have been checking all the secondhand stores for a new desk. No luck yet.

Shipwreck

Lawdog, I hope you remembered say goodby to all that fine interior work. Same Stuff works very well. I use both Tamiya and the Same Stuff.

 

Indeed shipwreck, that’s why I didn’t get crazy with it. I add the resin seats because I figured they might be seen.

I’m quite happy with the same stuff. I’m going to make it my new permanent glue. Truthfully, I can’t tell the difference between it and Tenax. I’ve never been crazy about Tamiya extra thin. It’s not hot enough for that instant bond I like. 

lawdog114

I have no idea what Mark Twain had to do with strategic bombing, but here's what it looked like.

Old-fashioned reference.  The riverboats did thoe use a lead ("LEEd") line with a weight and rope maked in fathoms.  (A souning line has a weight, called a lead--"lehd"--after its material, bbut to sounding line leads--"leeds"--the ship away from shoal water.)

The riverboats used a shounding pole since river waters were shallower.  The pole was given paint stripes--"marks" along its length for depth.  The leadman--"LEEd mahn" would call out the depth as the pole was sounded on the bottom per the "marks."  So, "by the Mark, Twain" was to say that the pole showed the bottom at two fathoms, 12 feet (3.65m), which was generally safe water for riverboats, which drew (submerged hull depth) about 5-6 feet of water.

Depths between the marks was called in quarters and halves.  So, 1.5 fathoms was "Half One."  1.75 fathoms was "Quarter less Twain."  2.25 Fathoms would be "Quarter Twain" and so on.  Three was either "Trey" or "Tree," and four was typically "FOE-ah" for clarity.

The laster were less common, as 'safe' water was twelve feet, and you needed about a 24 foot long pole for that.  So, a line was more useful over 2 fathoms' depth.

So, a stick for measuring things might be called a "twain pole."

The heyday of riverboats would hae just finished as these pilots' lies were just beginning, so the terminology would be familiar to their forebears and themselves.  If incredibly remote to those of our era.  Particularly those who have no notion of the "why" of area codes, or "toll free" calling.

Coming together nicely. By the way, I was browsing through some things I’ve missed over the pass few months and saw your new bench set up. Not a bad set up at all. I’m still sitting at the kitchen table for better lighting at the moment. Just got my work bench where I want it but don’t have a stool or the lights I need to model with. One day I’ll catch up to you guys.

I'm glad everyone got back in.  For some reason I wasn't affected, so I was getting lonely.....  Weird.  Anyways, I've been busy plugging away on this.  I left off at getting ready to close the fuselage.  First I added all the side windows and secured them with Tamiya Extra thin from inside.  I hope the bond will be strong enough to hold them in with all the handling.  I also added the front bombadier section. I read this was a problem area on this kit but I had no issues. I glued one side at a time. 

Doolittle planes had a blast plate on the top of the fuselage behind the fifties.  AM provides a diagram template for the correct size.  I added this with sheet styrene.

To backtrack a bit, the Norden bombsight was removed from Doolittle planes due to it's top secrecy nature and their ineffectiveness at the low level bombing, which was necessary for this mission.  They used a crude device nicknamed the "Mark Twain" bombsight.  I have no idea what Mark Twain had to do with strategic bombing, but here's what it looked like.

I made my own with sheet styrene.  I have no idea if it's in scale but I'm happy with it.  

The wings were glued together and test fitted.........not bad.  

A test fit of the tail.  We are gonna need putty to fill some gaps. 

The nacelles fit fairly well but needed putty to fill some gaps at the wings.  I started to sand the seams but fortunately I realized they are supposed to be there. I glued them together and ran a sewing needle chucked in my pin vice to define the line a little better.

Its almost together.  Here's a quick test fit with the cowls.  On a side note, AM molded the openings too small.  Instead of expensive resin, I grabbed the sandpaper and got busy opening them up. This looks about right.

Eventually I got here, to include a test fit of the glass.  The fit was good and I don't forsee any issues when I commit to glue.  The Eduard masks sure make the masking task quick and easy. 

I turned my attention to the mills. Like their Dauntless, AM made an attempt to mold the ignition wires.  They aren't bad but I think they are overscale and could be improved.  I chopped them off leaving just the leads then made my own.  Here's a turorial on how I do my radials:

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/149327.aspx

AM forgot to mold pushrods (which I discovered too late), but I'm pretty happy with them.....

A test fit in the cowls....

I hope to be painting soon.  I might try the black and white technique which I found interesting.  

.......and for those curious.  I ran out of Tamiya Extra Thin which in my opinion is a poor substitute for Tenax.  I recently stumbled upon this, which was advertised as the "Same Stuff" as Tenax.  Indeed it seems to be just as "hot".  I bought 5 bottles of it.  

Blackpowder1956

My father was a USAF Pilot at Andrews AFB in 1968. His CO was Brig. General Richard Knobloch. "Knobby" was the co-pilot of crew 13 "The Avengers". I too have this kit in my stash. I hope to build it as it was for crew 13. Thanks for the great write-up.

 

 

Now that is awesome!  You can build any of the 16 planes with the original AM realease.  I'm not sure about the later Academy version though.  

silentbob33

I'll be following along with this one, I love the B-25! I can't wait to see what you do with her

 

Thanks Bob

Ole

Very nice start. I will be following for sure. I've wanted to get my hands on one of these for a while, but have not been able to find one for the "right" price.

Great subject too. I had the honor of meeting Col. Richard Cole years ago.

 

 

Thanks, and nice to have you Ole. They pop up from time to time on ebay.   

My father was a USAF Pilot at Andrews AFB in 1968. His CO was Brig. General Richard Knobloch. "Knobby" was the co-pilot of crew 13 "The Avengers". I too have this kit in my stash. I hope to build it as it was for crew 13. Thanks for the great write-up.

Very nice start. I will be following for sure. I've wanted to get my hands on one of these for a while, but have not been able to find one for the "right" price.

Great subject too. I had the honor of meeting Col. Richard Cole years ago.

jeaton01

I love the look of this kit in the display case but it took me a long time to get it together,  I remember fit issues with several places, the separate lower front fuselage part took some work to fair in, and I hated the nose gear, broke it off early on.  I used a Monogram B-25 bombardiers greenhouse, it has a better shape in my opinion.  I messed about with the cowls a bit, bought the DMold resin, tossed it and finally just opened up the inlet about a millimeter on the kit parts and that seemed to fix that. I did it as a B-25C called the "Nip Clipper".

http://www.yolo.net/%7Ejeaton/mymodels/b25/1b25/1b25.html

There are excerpts from a wartime B-25C/D maintenance manual on my website that I found useful during the build, Lawdog, but don't let all the detail there derail your build:

 http://www.yolo.net/%7Ejeaton/Propplanes/b25/b25.htm

 

Thanks for the reference pics John.  I generally don't sweat interior stuff on bombers as very little can be seen.  Yeah, I'm aware of the issues with this kit, as I researched it before I started.  I will add the landing gear at the end of the build..........and The Nip Clipper turned out great, thanks for sharing.   

I love the look of this kit in the display case but it took me a long time to get it together,  I remember fit issues with several places, the separate lower front fuselage part took some work to fair in, and I hated the nose gear, broke it off early on.  I used a Monogram B-25 bombardiers greenhouse, it has a better shape in my opinion.  I messed about with the cowls a bit, bought the DMold resin, tossed it and finally just opened up the inlet about a millimeter on the kit parts and that seemed to fix that. I did it as a B-25C called the "Nip Clipper".

http://www.yolo.net/%7Ejeaton/mymodels/b25/1b25/1b25.html

There are excerpts from a wartime B-25C/D maintenance manual on my website that I found useful during the build, Lawdog, but don't let all the detail there derail your build:

 http://www.yolo.net/%7Ejeaton/Propplanes/b25/b25.htm

mawright20

I have a pencil drawing of Gen Doolittle's airplane signed by Col. Hank Potter, the Navigator. This was done the day I graduated from USAF Navigator course when he was the guest speaker for the graduation. Still have the picture of him presenting me my wings soon afterwards.

 

Thanks for stopping by and for your service. Your lucky to have met one of these brave men.

WillysMB

Finally was able to log back in to say what a beautiful piece of craftsmanship this is, and what a beautiful piece keavdog had on the survivor and his story. I was watching the B-25 piece on "Plane Resurrection" the other day (wonderful show by the way) and was reminded of an aspect of the raid's aftermath we rarely hear about, hundreds (maybe thousands) of Chinese were executed by the Japanese in reprisals for helping the Doolittle raiders. Puts a sharper point on the bravery and sacrifice of the raid.

 

Nice to have you Willie.  I don't think alot of folks realize just how brutal the Japanese were during this time.    

1943Mike

Another of what I'm sure will be the excellent and informative kind of WIP that I MUST reference for the future build of my Academy "G".

 

Thanks Mike...Glad to have ya.

Hobbie

Also late to the party thanks to the log-in problem but taking a seat! Indeed, Academy rebranded the G and B (Doolittle) versions, Italeri got the C/D, all of them minus the nose weight. Recently, Italeri put out the G with a new set of decals.

Nice to have you aboard Hobbie.  I ended up robbing my CD kit for the nose weights as my B didn't come with any.  My Doolittle B must have been a later release when AM started to struggle.  

..........and thanks for the kind words about this turkey.

Shipwreck

Lawdog, thanks for the tutorial on the Mission Model paint. Has it worked out just as well for you? I figure it would have to be twice as good as Tamiya; it cost twice as much!

Your welcome, I ended up watching it again myself.  I like it so far, particularly their RLM colors.  It is expensive, but one bottle should last a long time.  I tend to go through Tamiya paint quickly.  Thanks for following. 

Finally was able to log back in to say what a beautiful piece of craftsmanship this is, and what a beautiful piece keavdog had on the survivor and his story. I was watching the B-25 piece on "Plane Resurrection" the other day (wonderful show by the way) and was reminded of an aspect of the raid's aftermath we rarely hear about, hundreds (maybe thousands) of Chinese were executed by the Japanese in reprisals for helping the Doolittle raiders. Puts a sharper point on the bravery and sacrifice of the raid.

Another of what I'm sure will be the excellent and informative kind of WIP that I MUST reference for the future build of my Academy "G".

Also late to the party thanks to the log-in problem but taking a seat!

Indeed, Academy rebranded the G and B (Doolittle) versions, Italeri got the C/D, all of them minus the nose weight. Recently, Italeri put out the G with a new set of decals.

I scored the original Accurate gunship C/D-version a while ago online, it's waiting on the shelf for the day I'll be good enough to tackle it ; I'll learn straight from your bench . I was on a B-25 binge and eager to do the New Guinea "bat" versions, Accurate for the glass nose, old Monogram for the hard nose.

Your interior is stunning as usual, Accurate's work is great out of the box, real shame you can't see anything once the turkey is sewed up.

It's quite unusual to see you tackle on big birds like this one! :)

lawdog114

 

Chip

I know you've used Mission Model paints in the past, I'm interested in your thoughts on how they compare the gunze or tamiya...  I wouldn't mind changing over to a water based paint solution but have yet to bite the bullet.

Thanks Chip, glad to have you along.  Mission works a bit differently than the others.   Here's a good tutorial.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=644Dalxa8YA 

Lawdog, thanks for the tutorial on the Mission Model paint. Has it worked out just as well for you? I figure it would have to be twice as good as Tamiya; it cost twice as much!

GMorrison

It's out in the shed, but I think I have a Hobby Boss or Academy version.

Doolittle retired where I live. i met him once at a cafe for breakfast, and own a couple of books about the raid, although not Lawson's.

One interesting fact. The aircraft all taxied up to the same take off point.

No way there could be an aircraft with a ton of bombs and several hundred gallons of avgas careening into the island on takeoff.

 

Thanks for stopping in G.  Your lucky!  He's certainly on my list of people I wish I had met.  Thanks for the taxiing info.  Indeed, a B-25 into the tower would have been disasterous.    

It's out in the shed, but I think I have a Hobby Boss or Academy version.

Doolittle retired where I live. i met him once at a cafe for breakfast, and own a couple of books about the raid, although not Lawson's.

One interesting fact. The aircraft all taxied up to the same take off point.

No way there could be an aircraft with a ton of bombs and several hundred gallons of avgas careening into the island on takeoff.

Mopar Madness

I too wanted to comment for days.  I’m on board for this one! I’ve really been considering the recent Italeri repop.

 

Thanks Chad,

You can still find original AM releases on ebay.  I suppose I just prefer the original molds.  

Keyda81

I wanted to comment days ago, and say how beautiful that looks, but I was locked out, lol.  Really though, that looks great! 

 

Thanks Keyda.  Glad to have you aboard.

I too wanted to comment for days.  I’m on board for this one! I’ve really been considering the recent Italeri repop.

I wanted to comment days ago, and say how beautiful that looks, but I was locked out, lol.  Really though, that looks great! 

BrandonK

Didn't Academy or someone pick up the molds for these and start repopping them under their name? Anywho, I love this plane and want to add one to the stash. I am looking forward to seeing the master at work on this.

BK

 

Good to have you Brandon.  I believe Academy and Italieri have "borrowed" some of the molds.  I've seen their Dauntless boxed by Academy too.  It's my understanding AM still owns them, and likely get a cut.  

plasticjunkie

Dog, the Mitchell is looking fantastic. Too bad most of all that beautiful interior will not be seen once the fuselage is closed up..

 

Thanks PJ, thats why I didnt go crazy with painting it.  

keavdog

I built this kit for a friend of mine who is the grandson of the Doolittle raider co-pilot Griffith Paul Williams (RIP) was on crew 40-2267 TNT.  Survived the mission, later shot down in a B-26 over North Africa and spent the rest of the war as a POW.  Passed away in 1998.  I have a copy of his memoirs and reads much like 30 seconds over Tokeo - a book I read in the 6th grade.

Glad to have you along John.  What a cool story.  Do you have any pics of TNT? I'd love to see it.  

bvallot

I have planned to do a B-25B myself one day when I can get around to it. I recently had the opportunity to meet *** Cole who was Jimmy Doolittle’s copilot. He was at a CAF event that’s been coming to New Orleans the past few years. He’s the last surviving member from the flight at 103 years old.

Glad to have to Britt.  Indeed he's the last of a very exclusive club.  The next time I do this subject it will be his ride.   

Chip

I know you've used Mission Model paints in the past, I'm interested in your thoughts on how they compare the gunze or tamiya...  I wouldn't mind changing over to a water based paint solution but have yet to bite the bullet.

Thanks Chip, glad to have you along.  Mission works a bit differently than the others.   Here's a good turorial.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=644Dalxa8YA

or here....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=644Dalxa8YA

FSM gift ideas has a review of Italleri's AM B-25G I have 4 AM kits on my shelf plus 5 Revell B-25Js. Looking at the review reminded me what I do not like about those excellent AM kits. That is the recessed panel lines. B-25.s had over lapping panels; with no space between them!

Both Italeri and Academy have repopped the AM B-25's in the last few years (Scalemates).

BrandonK

Didn't Academy or someone pick up the molds for these and start repopping them under their name? 

BK 

Italleri has some of them; I am not sure who else.

Didn't Academy or someone pick up the molds for these and start repopping them under their name? Anywho, I love this plane and want to add one to the stash. I am looking forward to seeing the master at work on this.

BK

Dog, the Mitchell is looking fantastic. Too bad most of all that beautiful interior will not be seen once the fuselage is closed up..

Chip

 

Also, I know you've used Mission Model paints in the past, I'm interested in your thoughts on how they compare the gunze or tamiya...  I wouldn't mind changing over to a water based paint solution but have yet to bite the bullet.

 

I too compared MMP to Tamiya and they seem to spray equally well, just like enamels. I was VERY impressed how well MMP did in my fine spray line testing. Haven't tried Gunze but have heard great things about it too.

Looking good!  I built this kit for a friend of mine who is the grandson of the Doolittle raider co-pilot Griffith Paul Williams (RIP) was on crew 40-2267 TNT.  Survived the mission, later shot down in a B-26 over North Africa and spent the rest of the war as a POW.  Passed away in 1998.  I have a copy of his memoirs and reads much like 30 seconds over Tokeo - a book I read in the 6th grade.

http://veterantributes.org/TributeDetail.php?recordID=1933

Looking forward to the rest of this build.

Lawdog - The B-25 Mitchell is a subject that I've always admired but one that I'm too intimidated to build. I can't wait to see you work your magic on this kit. 

Also, I know you've used Mission Model paints in the past, I'm interested in your thoughts on how they compare the gunze or tamiya...  I wouldn't mind changing over to a water based paint solution but have yet to bite the bullet.

Glad to have you guys along. Interesting on paint information.  Speaking of reference pictures, all the pics I’ve seen of these on the Hornet show them to be quite weathered. So much for fresh paint...lol. I‘ll do mine accordingly. 

I plan to do the Duck with the decals that come in the kit. I presume they are for the real plane not the movie one. 

lawdog114

Thanks Damian.  I'll probably use the recently acquired Mission Models Olive Drab as a base and fade it from there.  It's my understanding these were freshly painted so I won't go crazy with it.  I'll used Tamiya Neutral Grey for the underside.  Thanks for tagging along.  

 

LD, are you going to do a movie version, or the actual paint and weathering?  Most of these aircraft were well used in the Louisiana Maneuvers, and had peeling paint and poor removal of the exercise markings.

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/hyperscale/airfix-b-25-c-d-to-a-doolittle-raider-b-t498089.html

It is a very nice kit; I built one a few years ago.

Don't forget nose weights!  They included them on earlier production, but when I contacted the company looking for mine, I found out that they had eliminated them.  Trying to save some cost, I guess.  Accurate Miniatures made some nice models; too bad they are gone.

The interior even has a "head", and the earlier versions had a very tiny "Life" magazine to go into a wall pocket in that area!

Great start, should be an interesting build. Will you be making a section of Hornet deck to display it on.

Hey Lawdog, yes these birds were suppose to be freshly painted and there are plenty of photos of what that looks like as they sat on Hornet's deck. Google Doolittle B-25!

Thanks Damian.  I'll probably use the recently acquired Mission Models Olive Drab as a base and fade it from there.  It's my understanding these were freshly painted so I won't go crazy with it.  I'll used Tamiya Neutral Grey for the underside.  Thanks for tagging along.  

Great start mate. What brand of paint will be used to cover fuselage? You have tried several brands to date, just interested in your current thoughts.

Thanks for posting.

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