Dragon 1/72nd Ar 234B-2b Complete

plasticjunkie

 

 

Bish

 

 

gregbale

 

 

Bish

The main problem i can see is the thickness of the kit canopy. The other option might be to spray the outside then possable give the whole canopy a coat of future so the frame has the same shiny look as the clear parts.

 

 

That's the same strategy I have often contemplated. I'll be curious to see it, if you decide to go that way.

Great work so far, really enjoying it!

 

 

 

 

The more i think on it, the more i think that might be the way to do it. Other than the thickness, trying to apply papers masks designed for the ouytside on the inside will be tricky as well. The curves will go the wrong way and if my understanding of maths is right, the clear panels will be smaller inside than out.

I'll have a good look at the canopy tonight and go from there.

 

 

 

 

Masking on the outside is the easier way to go but even after applying gloss, you may have a slight raised edge on the paint showing it as an exterior frame. If you don't care about that then the outside method is a go.

 

Good point. And i had not thought about the frame haveing a raised edge over the clear parts when the clear parts should sit on top of the frame.

Bish

 

 

gregbale

 

 

Bish

The main problem i can see is the thickness of the kit canopy. The other option might be to spray the outside then possable give the whole canopy a coat of future so the frame has the same shiny look as the clear parts.

 

 

That's the same strategy I have often contemplated. I'll be curious to see it, if you decide to go that way.

Great work so far, really enjoying it!

 

 

 

 

The more i think on it, the more i think that might be the way to do it. Other than the thickness, trying to apply papers masks designed for the ouytside on the inside will be tricky as well. The curves will go the wrong way and if my understanding of maths is right, the clear panels will be smaller inside than out.

I'll have a good look at the canopy tonight and go from there.

 

Masking on the outside is the easier way to go but even after applying gloss, you may have a slight raised edge on the paint showing it as an exterior frame. If you don't care about that then the outside method is a go.

gregbale

 

 

Bish

The main problem i can see is the thickness of the kit canopy. The other option might be to spray the outside then possable give the whole canopy a coat of future so the frame has the same shiny look as the clear parts.

 

 

That's the same strategy I have often contemplated. I'll be curious to see it, if you decide to go that way.

Great work so far, really enjoying it!

 

The more i think on it, the more i think that might be the way to do it. Other than the thickness, trying to apply papers masks designed for the ouytside on the inside will be tricky as well. The curves will go the wrong way and if my understanding of maths is right, the clear panels will be smaller inside than out.

I'll have a good look at the canopy tonight and go from there.

Bish

The main problem i can see is the thickness of the kit canopy. The other option might be to spray the outside then possable give the whole canopy a coat of future so the frame has the same shiny look as the clear parts.

That's the same strategy I have often contemplated. I'll be curious to see it, if you decide to go that way.

Great work so far, really enjoying it!

Ye, i was looking at that. Dragon give a seperate colour for the frame and it seems they have taken it from the one in the US. I have the Eduard mask set, but i haven't opened it yet. I am thinking about useing that on the inside, and spraying the canopy that way before fitting and then mask the whole of the outside off. I will have a look at that tonight.

The main problem i can see is the thickness of the kit canopy. The other option might be to spray the outside then possable give the whole canopy a coat of future so the frame has the same shiny look as the clear parts.

Bish,

Don’t forget the Ar-234 had the canopy framing on the inside of the Perspex, with only the fasteners on the outside.

It’s a difficult look to achieve.  I wonder how Zoukei Mura will handle this in their announced 1/32 kit?  We’ll have to wait 4-5 years to find out, given their pace of development.

But best of luck for your build!

Thanks PJ, i am hoping to get the primer on and start painting this weekend. Just got to finish off the IP and add the clear parts.

These kits are pretty good and you are moving briskly thru this build. I can hardly wait to see another of your display bases. 

Bish

Now that does look very nice G, you really have to get that finished. I was having a look at the V6 in my kagero referance book last night, you have caugfht it brilliantly. Would i be right in think you have engraved the tops of the wings above the outer engines, because that is very well done.

Thanks Bish!  Yeah I started to add panel lines on the wings to represent the V6.  I should get back on and finish it before a kit comes out!

There also was a DML Ar-234C under the bed...

Man I've gotta tell you, I took a break from aircraft because 1.) I like cars so dang much and 2.) I really felt that I needed to work on my painting and weathering so although I haven't been actually building aircraft for the last few years, I have been watching and learning.

Well, get to it then

Your build actually made me realise how much is visible through all that glass and how much wiring is exposed. Not sure if yours is the same, but the main instrument panel on mine attaches to the front canopy section. And thanks to you i am wiring up the whole IP and will have to try and feed the wires into the fuselage as i attach the front clear piece. There is a lot more in there than i had thought.

But its ok, i only have 4 more Dragon 234's to build after this one

Bish

Thanks Joe. Didn't you build a 48th one a while back and wire up the cockpit.

 

Thanks Joe. Didn't you build a 48th one a while back and wire up the cockpit.

Man you know I'm gonna be in on this one. I've been eyin' mine for the last month or so......

Now that does look very nice G, you really have to get that finished. I was having a look at the V6 in my kagero referance book last night, you have caugfht it brilliantly. Would i be right in think you have engraved the tops of the wings above the outer engines, because that is very well done.

Bish,

Here are some pics of the Ar-234A V6.

https://flic.kr/p/RX95hs][/url]Arado-07 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/2cGkz7g][/url]Arado-08 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/2cGkyxF][/url]Arado-10 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

Having a look now, I can see that the polyester putty on the nacelles is delaminating!  New nacelles are in order.  The canopy is really mucked up, so I probably should make a new vac-form "buck" out of a single blob of epoxy putty.  Lots of crummy handiwork in evidence!

The trolley is from DML's Arado E-377 Mistel, and will be suitably "backdated" to the configuration for the Ar-234A.

Oops, I can't remember if I modified the main gear to be able to be slotted into the bays!  That was so long ago...  The intent was to have it on its legs, as I normally do not do in-flight models.

Here are two pics which show the narrowed fuselage and the skid bay.

https://flic.kr/p/2e5nzpH][/url]Arado-02 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/2e5nz7t][/url]Arafo-03 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

IIRC between the Ar-234A and B, the real thing was widened by nine inches, which works out to a whopping 1/8” in 1/72.  I'll tape the nacelles on the Ar-234A and post some pics to get the Blitz juices flowing.

BTW I just noticed on the kit box art, the pilot missed the bridge (Remagen?) by a really wide margin!

Thanks for the heads up on the panel, i'll lok at that now. Are you planning on doing that with closed gear doors or you going to try and fit the undrcarge in that way. I tried that before i glued thge bays in and gave up.

Thats some nice work on that conversion, would be nice to see that finished. So far i have built 5 Dragon aircraft and despite sme fit issues, which i haven't found to be to much, i like them. And of course, if you want these subjects, you don't have to much choice.

Bish,

Since you are doing a recce version, you might want to take note of the infamous DML fit of the underfuselage camera bay panel.  This is a pic of my Ar-234B.  The panel is too narrow so I sawed it in half and shimmed it.  You will need to do it differently I imagine!

https://flic.kr/p/RWjecC][/url]Arado-06 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

Here is the stock kit with the narrower "A" version.

https://flic.kr/p/RWjes7][/url]Arado-01 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

I look forward to what you will do with the kit Bish!

When DML issued that kit, they had a reputation of “looks good in the box, but does not build well”, which is somewhat deserved.  But hey they brought us modern Luftwaffe late war aircraft at a time when there was none.

I had started an Ar-234A conversion based on the same kit a while back.  I chose the 4-engined BMW version with the separate nacelles.  I narrowed the fuselage, added the well for the central skid, and made the engines. I got stuck on how to do the exhaust fairings so it got shelved. I also need to figure out how to vac a new narrow canopy.  Maybe I’ll wait 20 years and resurrect it like I am wont to do.

Actually, I can tackle those problems now.  I’ll dig the kit out from under the bed and post some pics for laughs.

Cheers guys, hopefully the diorama will be a little different.

Greg, i rather like Dragon 72nd aircraft kits and this is rather nice. As you can see on the pic above i added the rear of the cockpit to the pit itself rather than attaching it to the fuselage as the instructions suggest. And i am glad i did as it does need a bit of sanding around the edge to get a fit and the wheel wells are a little tricky to fit with the undercarrage legs in place. But adding the legs later would be even more difficult as i tried dry fitting that.

I have the same kit deep in the stash, so this should be most enlightening. I, too, am anxious to see your diorama concept.

Watching this one.