Hasegawa 1/48 Myrt WIP (COMPLETED)

Thanks Gary. 

Eugene Rowe

Anti corrosion coating inside of the wheel wells .Characterized by it's transparent blue appearance best simulated by first painting the wells silver followed by clear blue 

 

Its called Aotake. Depending on the colors at hand it ranged from green to blue. Some late  war aircraft didn't have the Aotake or even primer as shortages were getting worse.

Anti corrosion coating inside of the wheel wells .Characterized by it's transparent blue appearance best simulated by first painting the wells silver followed by clear blue 

Splendid work, PJ!  Good job on the chipping.

Anticoate? Perhaps "undercoat"?  Or perhaps the aotake?

Gary

Thanks Est and Eugene.

What is an anticoate?

Did you do the anticoate?  

Great job!it really is a nice kit!  

Lovely finish, really like the chipping effect I'm taking notes.

fox

W - O - W! Great build PJ!    

Jim 

Stay Safe.

 

Thanks Jim.

W - O - W! Great build PJ!    

Jim 

Stay Safe.

Thanks Patrick. The long fuselage v shape looks very cool. 

That's a dandy fine job you made of it, Ernie. Really nice finish and added details, the work paid off. That fuselage is so long, it looks like it has enough tail for a 737.

Thanks for the post and photos, always good to see your latest project.

Patrick

The Myrt is completed. I didn’t like the thick toy like loop antenna in the pit so I made one from thin wire. Unfortunately it’s hard to  see thru all the greenhouse partitions of the canopies. I also added a PE sight for the rear MG. The chipping  was done differently this time using hairspray but no water to attack the hairspray layer under the green. I sprayed the entire plane with Floquil Old Silver and when dry, decanted some hairspray and shot it thru my AB. The Tamiya Imperial Japanese Green was sprayed on and set aside to dry. I then used the tip of a #11 blade to create the chips along with using masking tape to pull up and clean up the chip edges. Flory Washes popped all recessed details. The cowling color is Tamiya Nato Black with some blue added. Artists oils were used for streaks.

A little more progress done on the Myrt, more weathering yet to come.

Chipping done using a combo of hairspray, sharp blade and masking tape.

The prop got some chipping on the leading airfoil edge of the blades.

The Tamiya  decals went on without a problem but are very thick. Solvaset came thru as usual, melting down the decal film to make them look as if they were painted.

Greg

 

 

plasticjunkie

Heyvare you gonna make it to Modelpalooza this Oct.?

 

 

It's a bit early this year, isn't it?

I was thinking about making an early trip down just to go, but just noticed we have a conflicting Dr appt , so I'm afraid not. Darn it.

 

Yes it’s a bit earlier this year. Sorry you can’t make it this time.

Eaglecash867

Heh...I was thinking about giving Montex masks a try some time.  Looks like I won't be doing that now.  The masks I used for the camo on my F-16B were also vinyl masks.  I made them work, but MAN what a pain vinyl is to work with.  Its like trying to mask a complex shape with little blocks of wood.  Next time I'll use them as stencils for cutting the shapes out of the masking sheets. 

 

plasticjunkie

Heyvare you gonna make it to Modelpalooza this Oct.?

It's a bit early this year, isn't it?

I was thinking about making an early trip down just to go, but just noticed we have a conflicting Dr appt , so I'm afraid not. Darn it.

Heh...I was thinking about giving Montex masks a try some time.  Looks like I won't be doing that now.  The masks I used for the camo on my F-16B were also vinyl masks.  I made them work, but MAN what a pain vinyl is to work with.  Its like trying to mask a complex shape with little blocks of wood.  Next time I'll use them as stencils for cutting the shapes out of the masking sheets. 

Eaglecash867

 

 

plasticjunkie

I used Montex vinyl masks that the edges kept lifting up. I had to continually press down on the mask to keep it down  and quickly spray. Still I had several edges to clean up with a sharp wood toothpick. The Eduard masks are far better than this vinyl stuff.

 

 

 

 

Those canopy pieces look pretty sharp PJ.  I've always loved the Eduard masks because of how well they stay put, without having an aggressive adhesive.  I have been using Tamiya masking sheets for the same reason (pretty much the same material as the Eduard masks).  They work so much better than tape and don't harm the paint or Alclad underneath.

 

Thanks Eagle. Oh yes, forgot to mention the gummy residue left behind from the Montex crap. Eduard is the best.

plasticjunkie

I used Montex vinyl masks that the edges kept lifting up. I had to continually press down on the mask to keep it down  and quickly spray. Still I had several edges to clean up with a sharp wood toothpick. The Eduard masks are far better than this vinyl stuff.

 

Those canopy pieces look pretty sharp PJ.  I've always loved the Eduard masks because of how well they stay put, without having an aggressive adhesive.  I have been using Tamiya masking sheets for the same reason (pretty much the same material as the Eduard masks).  They work so much better than tape and don't harm the paint or Alclad underneath.

Trying something different this time, polishing the paint without shooting any gloss for decal application and washes. 
Flory Washes need to go over a glossy finish otherwise it stains the area upon wiping with a water damp paper towel piece. Decals need a glossy surface to avoid silvering. 
I polished the paint with a 1200 grit pad then went over with a coffee paper filter. What I got was a very smooth semigloss finish with tonal variation that should allow for the next steps.

The Flory Washes went on, left to dry and a water dampened paper towel was used to carefully wipe away the dried excess wash, it worked like a charm leaving no staining or halo once wiped off. I love using these Flory Washes.

Next up will be the decal application that should yield equally positive results.

Greg

Awesome work on the interior, Ernie.

Haven't seen a WIP of yours in a while, good to see.

I like your idea of posting some progress pics outside of the GB. For whatever reason, I tend not to follow GB's unless I'm participating. I've always wondered how many folks do that.

 

Hi Greg, have been tied up with non modeling things but I'm back at the bench. I figured some folks don't follow GBs unless they are in it so I try to post aside from the GB. Thanks for looking and commenting. 
Heyvare you gonna make it to Modelpalooza this Oct.?

Awesome work on the interior, Ernie.

Haven't seen a WIP of yours in a while, good to see.

I like your idea of posting some progress pics outside of the GB. For whatever reason, I tend not to follow GB's unless I'm participating. I've always wondered how many folks do that.

I used Montex vinyl masks that the edges kept lifting up. I had to continually press down on the mask to keep it down  and quickly spray. Still I had several edges to clean up with a sharp wood toothpick. The Eduard masks are far better than this vinyl stuff.

Myrt has her colors on. The segmenred greenhouse took some patience to mask but came out looking good. More to come.

keavdog

Pit looks fantastic.  Nice detail on a great looking subject.  I dig that giant greenhouse canopy.  Will it be all closed up?

 

Thanks Kdog. Hasegawa gives the option of a closed canopy or a segmented open version. I will use the closed canopy to protect the pit area during painting and use the segmented one for the model so the pit will be more visible.

Pit looks fantastic.  Nice detail on a great looking subject.  I dig that giant greenhouse canopy.  Will it be all closed up?

Real G

I'm liking this build a LOT!  That IP is so nice, who needs those fancy pre-colored ones?

Oh wait, I do, since my painting skills suck.  

 

Thanks G. I think this Hasegawa  has the best molded detail off any of their Japanese subjects. 

patrick206

Hi, Ernie -

What a good job you're making of this one, the interior is extremely well done. I'm looking forward to seeing this one proceed down the assembly line. Thanks for the informative post and photos.

Patrick

 

Thanks Patrick. This is a nice kit with great detailing.