IRON RAILS 2015 GB

jibber

Eric are you going to do more with the ballast, if so I may have a suggestion to consider. I've had a couple of these and what has worked for me is a base paint thats a dark dirty color sprayed or painted over the ballast, then dry brush a couple different browns or grays over the rocks hitting the peaks. This seems to add some depth to it without overkill.

Eric heres a photo that shows the rails and ties before I hit the ballast with the dark base and dry brushing lighter colors. Oh and I this added an oil wash to the ties, cant remember anymore. I thought I had a finished photo but I can't find one. 

Eric real nice work getting those ties in place and running the rails through without busting off all those little nail heads. I certainly learned my lesson that the rails have to be perfectly level first...

Im probably jumping the gun with this but just thought Id add a thought or two, but I'm sure you've had this thought out. You seem to getting a lot done, I wish I could get more bench time.

Terry 

That looks great Terry!

Depending on what light I look at in in, I'm not really satisfied with how the ballast itself looks. I do have to darken it up a bit. I was also thinking of adding some Woodland Scenics ballast and some weeds, growing here and there to the final base.

I did snap one of the rails, getting it through. That was a tough deal for sure. I still have to touch it up. You can probably see a place, where it needs to be addressed (top left between third and forth tie)

I got one to go all the way through and was a bit cocky. The next one, hit a snag 3/4 of the way and bam...snapped. I had to file and join....and it was mid tie. so, it had sort of a droop in it. Had to hold it in place with super glue.

Thank you for the advice..will get it looking better.

Terry Your rails look nice. i threw mine out and will donate all plastic rails in kits to folks who want them.

I have an answer on Buffer and Chain German couplers.

This coupling is still the standard in European countries (except the former Soviet Union, where the SA-3 automatic coupler is used). Coupling is done by a worker who must climb between the cars. First he winds the turnbuckle to the loose position, and then he can hang the chain on the hook. After hanging the chain on the towing hook the turnbuckle handle is stowed on the idle hook to prevent damage to itself, the vehicle, or the brake pipes. Only shunting is permitted with a dangling chain. Disconnected brake pipes must be stowed on dummy connectors, to allow proper operation of the brakes. (The picture shows two coupled cars, with a single brake pipe.)

The hooks and chain hold the carriages together, while the buffers keep the carriages from banging into each other so that no damage is caused. The buffers can be "dumb" or spring-loaded. That means there are no run-in forces on the coupler. The other benefit compared with automatic couplers is that its lesser slack causes smaller forces on curves; there is a lower probability of a broken coupler in a curve than with automatic couplers. The disadvantage is the smaller mass of the freight that can be hauled by hook and chain couplers (maximum 4,000 t or 3,937 long tons or 4,409 short tons).

Early rolling stock was often fitted with a pair of auxiliary chains as a backup if the main coupling failed. This made sense before the fitting of continuous fail-safe braking systems.

On railways where rolling stock always pointed the same way, the chain might be mounted at one end only, as a small cost and weight saving measure.

On German and Scandinavian railways, the left buffer is flatter than the right one, which is slightly more rounded. This provides better contact between the buffers than would be the case if both buffers were slightly rounded.

Great shots, I've been looking for something like these. Thanks.

I've made more progress today, i'll get some pics up later tonight. I was thinking the rails were just too nice looking and need some creosote or some other grimy color.  

Hi guys,

Have not had the chance to catch up with your postings quiet yet, only back from a longer biz trip today.

Only to find that the LHS has the Trumpeter 1:35 Panzerlok BR57 on sale for Sek 299:- ( $ 35 or 7 Big Mac ).

So if I can not get the Flatbed moving soon I will have to pull it behind the Locomotive :)

Very Best Regards

Johan

Wayne and Terry,

You guy's are the bomb with your builds, Fantastic looking and very informative histories.

Just a reminder, The Artillery Build starts on the 16th. Wayne, I know you already started with the K5.

Johan,

Your Panzerlok is going to be awesome!

JohanT

Hi guys,

Have not had the chance to catch up with your postings quiet yet, only back from a longer biz trip today.

Only to find that the LHS has the Trumpeter 1:35 Panzerlok BR57 on sale for Sek 299:- ( $ 35 or 7 Big Mac ).

So if I can not get the Flatbed moving soon I will have to pull it behind the Locomotive :)

Very Best Regards

Johan

for $35 USD i'd jump all over that. just what i need to do, start building a 1/35 armored train.

JohanT

Hi guys,

Have not had the chance to catch up with your postings quiet yet, only back from a longer biz trip today.

Only to find that the LHS has the Trumpeter 1:35 Panzerlok BR57 on sale for Sek 299:- ( $ 35 or 7 Big Mac ).

So if I can not get the Flatbed moving soon I will have to pull it behind the Locomotive :)

Very Best Regards

Johan

Wow, they did so many other German Locos in 1/72 scale, why can't they do this one in that same scale? I need two of these to place in front of my Dora, but only in 1/72 scale. Good score Johan, maybe someday they'll shrink it down

Duke Maddog

Wow, they did so many other German Locos in 1/72 scale, why can't they do this one in that same scale? I need two of these to place in front of my Dora, but only in 1/72 scale. Good score Johan, maybe someday they'll shrink it down

Duke you need those 2 modernish looking diesels for DORA. You just want this in OTS and trying to justify it.

waynec

Duke Maddog

Wow, they did so many other German Locos in 1/72 scale, why can't they do this one in that same scale? I need two of these to place in front of my Dora, but only in 1/72 scale. Good score Johan, maybe someday they'll shrink it down

Duke you need those 2 modernish looking diesels for DORA. You just want this in OTS and trying to justify it.

No, I don't need to justify it, I'd buy them regardless if they are ever released in my scale. Besides, I did buy and build two of the modernish looking diesel-powered WC-360 locos to put in front of Dora. Three issues occurred to me. One: these WC-360's were yard bugs meant for shunting cars around in a train yard and were rarely, if ever used out on the main rail lines; Two: These WC-360's are two small to aim a monster like Dora, unless you place six of them in front of her; typically they used between two and four locos specially modified to move her only inches at a time. Three: the first two issues I found out when I bought these two WC 60's; built them and placed them in front of a partially finished Dora. The bumpers on these WC-360 Locos were 1/4-inch too low and would literally pass under Dora's bumpers if they were hooked up. The armored loco depicted in the pic above was used in most German armored trains and was powerful enough for two of them to aim Dora. They also had room to move their bumpers up to match Dora's if needed, unlike the two WC-360's. I have one of those armored Locos on my 6-and-a-half-foot long Panzerzug BP-44 German Armored Train. I don't want to buy two more of those horrid Armageddon kits just for the Locos on them. They are far too expensive for that and I had a tough enough time building just the one armored locomotive!

These were the ones i was thinking of

KRUPP D311 / DRG V 188 DIESEL ELECTRIC LOCOS SPECIALLY
DESIGNED FOR USE WITH LARGE WORLD WAR II RAILWAY GUNS

Krupp was commissioned to build twelve pairs of special diesel electric locos for use as locomotive power for heavy railway guns immediately before and during World War II.  The locos, of which only four pairs appear to have been completed, were designated D311.01 a/b through D311.04 a/b by Krupp and V 188 by the DRG; the units that survived the war were eventually known by the DB designation of BR 288.

The D311 / V188 loco sets were used during construction of the heavy railway guns, to move the guns into place along curved tracks that were used to aim the guns, and to provide power required to load and operate the guns.  The locomotive sets had to be powerful enough to move the extremely heavy gun sets and had to operate in a combat environment (i.e., without the benefit of overhead electric power and without smoke/steam plumes that would give away camouflaged locations).

Sorry I haven't posted any updated pics. I am on a new work schedule: 6:00pm - 6:00am (3 days on / 2 days off) Trying to get used to sleeping in the light and staying up all night

I did finish off my base and sprayed dull coat. I still want to add some Woodland Scenic product to it. I am off for the next 2 days so, I will get something posted. Will be doing work on the Panther.

Don't ask me how but, I never noticed I was somehow missing the tracks for the Panther G. Have no idea where they went. I ordered another Tamiya kit with a separate track links kit and have since received them. Will be using the tracks from kit. When I build the other Panther, I will use the separates.

not to worry. i just found ANOTHER shelf queen high side Trumpeter gondola/flatcar. that makes 1 heavy flatcar, 3 high side gondolas  3 low side gondolas (both of which i can leave the sides off and use for flatcars for light vehicle). very cool.

Duke, a while back I did some research on the Dora trying to find as many real war photos as possible. Obviously there aren't that many out there but one thing I wanted to find out, is what locomotives were used to pull/push it. What I found was a lot of dioramas with interpretations but only two photos of camo cars new her that looked like workers cars and not one locomotive. I'm sure you've seen this photo but other than supplies or personnel I don't really see any other use for them.

My "guess" is that it had to be steam locomotives. It was taken down and reassembled, but even though it must've taken some real power to handle that mass. And then theres the track, I'm not sure it had any bearing on the loco's just another "guess" on my part but I think it was for reinforcement for that huge gun.

Duke if you have any other info I'd love to hear it, I'm still not out of the Dora thought yet...

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Thanks, Terry

Wayne you must have a lot of space for all those kits, its nice to see so many RR models  and I agree on the plastic tracks. Don't need em.

Thanks for the great replies guys. Wayne, I would love to get a model of those diesels you mention, but like the armored engine seen above; there's no kits of those in 1/72 scale. The armored engines did get used to haul Dora around and in a pinch, helped to get her aimed if/when the diesels broke or went down for maintenance.

Terry, when Dora was broken down for travel, her train was nearly a mile long. this was typically pulled by several of the armored locomotives to whatever location she was being stationed at. The rest of her support train (consisting of the cars you see in the first pic) extended the length to five miles long. Her crew consisted of 88 men on board with another 200+ in support roles such as cooks, laundry, maintenance, AA protection, supply, etc. She was commanded by a Major General equivalent. As Wayne mentioned, she was aimed using specially designed diesel engines that would leave no plume; could move her an inch at a time if necessary; and were extremely powerful to handle all 13,000+ tons of her. Unfortunately, there are no models of those diesels in 1/72 scale.  It is possible that for some reason, the locos used to aim her were some kind of military secret at the time so no pics were taken of them with the Dora because of that.I'll try to dig up more of my info that I got while researching her.

Wow what an undertaking, didn't they ever think that a gun the size of Manhattan wouldn't be seen from the air?

Thanks Duke, right after this build I'm at a crossroad whether to go ahead with a 4' RR Dio in 1/72 or a Dora, still thinking. I have almost all the parts for it except my landscape, but either way I'll run a WIP on this build.

Duke I'm wondering if those extra rails were not only used for recoil support, but maybe to help it along for aiming. Something like a gearing effect? I found that the this beast broke ties by the dozens after these shots. They're undertaking is almost unbelievable.

T  

jibber

Wayne you must have a lot of space for all those kits, its nice to see so many RR models  and I agree on the plastic tracks. Don't need em.

no just a lot of not built in boxes. actually the gondolas with a nice base are only one foot long and narrow. the heavy flatcar needs an 18 inch base. i am going to have so many different shades of german gray when i get done but fun practice. checked and my buffers for Dragon and Trumpeter are the same height so that is good. if we get another black lab mix sized dog i lose 3 shelves due to the tail.

the narrow kits, rail cars, and towed guns in travel mode sit on bases in front of books on my book shelves

jibber

Wow what an undertaking, didn't they ever think that a gun the size of Manhattan wouldn't be seen from the air?

Thanks Duke, right after this build I'm at a crossroad whether to go ahead with a 4' RR Dio in 1/72 or a Dora, still thinking. I have almost all the parts for it except my landscape, but either way I'll run a WIP on this build.

Duke I'm wondering if those extra rails were not only used for recoil support, but maybe to help it along for aiming. Something like a gearing effect? I found that the this beast broke ties by the dozens after these shots. They're undertaking is almost unbelievable.

T  

Yes, Terry, it was quite an undertaking. It typically took two to three weeks to assemble Dora to get her ready for firing. They did know she'd be seen from the air, and they took steps to try and mitigate that possibility. She was always surrounded by at least 40 AA guns, mostly quads, and they always carried copious amounts of camo netting that were strung up around her. Sometimes, they even lit smoke pots to obscure her from the air if they expected enemy air activity. She was usually deployed in areas where they had air superiority, or there was a low expectation of enemy aircraft too.

The extra rails that were carried and that she was deployed on were curved about 1 to 3 degrees, so even though she seemed to sit on a straight track, she didn't. Her movement back and forth on those curved tracks served to traverse the gun. This is why they needed special locos to move her such tiny measurements: one inch could mean a five-mile distance between shell impacts on the receiving end of this gun. The recoil support came in the form of special brakes that kept her from moving backwards, as well as massive pads under the main chassis that impacted the rails to absorb the recoil, as well as allow friction to help keep her from moving backwards. You'll also notice that she had some bare metal on her barrel; it was part of the triple recoil system she used to stay in place. That recoil is what broke ties so much which is why part of that five-mile-long support train carried extras. Usually, when they arrived at an area, they would send out crews to go find wood to make more, especially if they were expected to stay in an area for a long time (Think Sevestapol) The ties were made extra large too to help mitigate the amount of breakage.

Let me know when you start a WIP on this and please include a link too. I'd love to follow along and watch.

based on new photos i "rusted up" the bumpers, especially the sliding shaft as well as the couplers. Vallejo oily steel followed by some metallic rust, german red brown and toned down with blackgray.i will glue the sides on today as i have others i can use for light armor flatcars. one may have a 20 (4) FLAK in travel mode on it as that was a standard car  for the gun train.

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I'm struggling for bench time but I did get the interior completed and ready to install the cab. My Schienenwolf is completed and I've started on the base by preparing ties, rails and cleats. 

I've been feeling a tad off the past few days too. i think i am going to paint deck on the heavy flat car like wood. lightly overspray with paint and see if i need to remove more paint. also working on K-5. there is a post of another finished K-5 in armor in it's own thread. going to study that one a bit as well as Karl's PZ-IV painting .

Yea Wayne I seen that one and I'd also put a wood finish on it.  BYW I like the way my wood has been coming out lately, just some different products and techniques, starting to look very realistic after years of hit and miss. I used to hate large wood areas….

the trucks are ready to overspray and camo. the trucks are sitting on a foot long section of track.

if you  have build artillery or anti-tank guns you  familiar with building breeches for the guns. to give you an idea of the size here are a couple of pics of the breech.

spent the afternoon sanding every cylinder on the K-5 except the barrel. all the seams look good. took a break to work on shelf queen HEAVY FLAT CAR. got the decals on but NO ONE WILL EVER SEE the other side. fragile old decals broke like crazy so managed to get most of one side one. also the overspray didn't work well. i will flat coat the decals and do some heavy weathering on this. lessons learned. not sure if Vallejo is the best paint for overspray misting but probably just need more practice.

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A little progress on the cab and interior. I tried to give the inner walls a more varnished look as opposed to the very used floor, but I have to tone it down a bit. A few more steps and I can start final assembly.

Hi,

Can I ask for a quick advice before i mess thigs up;

Regarding the Panzerlok BR57, should the undercarriage be red similar as Terry has done the BR 86?

@Terry, did you paint the wheels silver first and masked of before the red went on?

Very Best Regards

Johan

Johan I first painted all the wheels red then painted on the silver coat free hand. I had to touch up a couple spots but it wasn't bad at all. 

Terry

Wayne, Terry, your projects are really looking great!

Thanks, I've been slowed a bit but should be in action soon.

T

Thanks for the update Terry!

Finally goy arround to start this kit today.
First some sprueshoots:

Some bad sink marks on the inner face, I know they will never be seen but I still want to fix them but fresh out of putty....

So I will start with the coal wagon;

Very Best Regards

Johan