Bf-109: Reich Defender GB The End

soulcrusher wrote:

That is some nice work there Steve. That is a tough question about the hard edge soft edge camo. I have not seen any definitive posts on the subject. I have done all of my late war Luftwaffe builds with soft edge camo. I do not know if it is correct but it looks right to my eyes so that is what I have been sticking with. I am in the process of painting my K-4 and according to what research i was able to do it looks like a mix of both. Some areas like the cowl look like the end of the engine access panels are where the camo breaks as a hard edge but the camo break after the cockpit looks like a soft edge. Go figure!?                                                                             Soulcrusher

SC- Sorry I'm late here, no internet for the past couple of days.  That appears to be a 334 batch K-4.  The paint pattern matches and JG 27 received numerous 334 batch aircraft.  The fueslage demarcation line should be more hard than soft, but not completely hard (if that makes sense).  I would guess the same for the wings.  I've seen this batch portrayed with a blue/green fuselage and RLM 76 on the lower wings and and the lower tail too.  I can't vouch that it's accurate, but throwing it out FWIW.  Attached are a couple of pics.

HTH,

Mike

Hi Mike,

Excellent info! I checked the pattern against the instructions of the Hasegawa K-4 and the patterns are close to identical. I think this is a great chance to try soft masking -- tricky but a great technique and a spectacular result.

Cheers,

Mike/TB379

Steve- Yes, it should have a splash of color:

I've also seen it with a yellow cowl underneath.  I'm contemplating doing this scheme myself.  Also be careful on your colors on your other one.  You called out 81/82/76, 81/83/76 is correct.  Testor's mislabelled Dark Green as RLM 82 years ago and it's caused much confusion.

82= Bright Green

83= Dark Green

Mike

Luftwoller wrote:

Good question about the camo though. i was actually going to post on the same subject ish. The wings i was going to go, like Frank said, with a precut template. Thats how they werte done in the factorys i believe. As for the fuse, on my eagle cal sheet it looks fairly hard edged. And looking at a few on Hyperscale, a couple there were done with masking tape. So the edges would be very hard edged. Frank What did you do on yours for the fuselage? ...Guy

I used a mix of freehand AB, paper masks, Tamiya tape, and handy-tak.  The scheme I did seemed to have a lot of different colors/paint effects on it which was why I chose it. 

luftwaffle wrote:

Also be careful on your colors on your other one.  You called out 81/82/76, 81/83/76 is correct.  Testor's mislabelled Dark Green as RLM 82 years ago and it's caused much confusion. 82= Bright Green 83= Dark Green Mike

Great info Mike, thanks for sharing that!  I ran into this problem using the kit instructions for Yellow 5.   They had me use 82 instead of 83.  Took a little work with the AB to straighten the mess out I tell you!

Thanks for the info Mike. The first pic looks spot on for what the instruction are calling for. For some reason this camo pattern is proving to be difficult to duplicate for me. I just can't seem to get it right. Its really bogged down this build for me. I think I have seen enough pics from all angels now i can picture it in my mind. Just can't seem to get motivated to finish it up.

                                                                                 Soulcrusher

Luftwoller wrote:

Im still here. Great work Steve. You going to have your own squadron. Sure making up for lacking any 'G's' in your collection. Good question about the camo though. i was actually going to post on the same subject ish. The wings i was going to go, like Frank said, with a precut template. Thats how they werte done in the factorys i believe. As for the fuse, on my eagle cal sheet it looks fairly hard edged. And looking at a few on Hyperscale, a couple there were done with masking tape. So the edges would be very hard edged. Frank What did you do on yours for the fuselage? ...Guy

Guy, it was pretty much dependent on the aircraft batch, it was definitely an evolutionary thing.  Some had a soft, feathered edge...others it was a definite hard line.  The decal sheets don't always do a good job of portraying how the lines actually looked which complicates things as well.

Mike, great info on the colours and cammo. Now for the bad news, I had already painted before I read all this new info, I hope I got it right. I did paint it 81/82/76. Judging by the posts the colours look the same. I did pick up some 83 and it is a very light green that kinda freeked me out. It looks like the colour you see Ar 234, and Me 262's. Anyway, heres a pic so fire away on if I got it close. I still have a lot of work to do on the sides so its not done yet, plus some fixes.

The 74/75 version is at the same stage and also needs some fixes and repaints. It's hard getting all this motteling right

All the experten let me know how I am doing and if I have to re-paint some items.

Steve

Steve, I can't testify to the accuracy of the colors but they sure look good to me. I really like the 74/75. That thing is sharp. May have to find a version like that to add to my list.

Steve- Looks like you're OK.  You must be using Testor's since they reversed 82 and 83.  Since your painting instructions mixed them up too, it all worked out!

OK, my silence the last few days was due to a bad router, not inactivity, so time to catch up project #2.  For this one, for some reason (masochism comes to mind) I decided to go with Revell's 1/72 G-10.  Not that's it's totally awful, it actually has some nice feautures but has some glaring errors to go along with them.  It's actually a good candidate for a G-6/AS (which this will be) since they used the shallow oil cooler and the cheek bulges are a seperate part.  Like most 1/72 109 kits (except FineMolds) the gear is too far out, should be on the fuselage not the wings.  I've cut some extensions to move the gear inboard and filled in the gap with some PE pieces:

Flaps cut away and detailed:

And a laundry list of mods and upgrades.  Removed imaginary line of rivets on cowl and other make believe details, installed rudder and horizontal stabs from (leftovers from FM), installed Quickboost supercharger intake, installed kidney bulges on wings (from Italeri G-6), installed True Details cockpit detail set, moved oil fill hatch cover down to correct position.  Phew, I think that's it so far!

You are a Machine Mike. Fantastic looking work going on. Youll have it sprayed before i have chance to post a thing.

...Guy

Very nice work Mike, you make those 1/72 kits sing. When I got your post last night all I could say was '' crap ''. But you are correct I am using testors enamel and the colours looked close to the box top and I followed the paint guide. I guess all's well in the end. I can now continue knowing it's right. WHEW !!!!!

Merry Christmas to one and all.

Steve

While the missus was rushing around, i did the manly thing and stayed out of her way and did some modelling....I know im too good to her. Anyhoo, heres where im up to at the mo. Coming along swimmingly.

The aries cupboard piece was a right fiddly looking blighter so i fabbed my own along with the bar thingy at the bottom. The PE bit is the top link for the harnesses,

This is the tail wheel doors. To do this i plugged the hole with a suitable lump of resin and sanded it down to the contour of the fuz, then scribed the centre line.

I also managed to get the pit in. Its just tacked there at the mo to make sure its all looking good. That resin lens in the top of the Revi looks pretty good.

thats all for now, its 11.20am UK time. Im off to bed. I hope you all get everything you want and wish you all a Very happy christmas and new year.

Love from Lufty and his elves (Wingus and Dingus)

...Guy

Steve- Looks like you are well on your way to a set of beauties!  Noce A/B work, really looks the business.

Mike- Oops!  I thought this second build was in 1/48.  No worries- I changed the info on page one.  You're flying through that one fella!  Looking very good, though I must admit- I am not at all familiar with the G-6/AS.

Guy- Man, that is nice looking progress!  You're gonna be painting that one by the weekend, no?  Great detail- lovin' your work.

Well the Fujimi K-4 is oficially been placed in the round file. I just can not see wasting anymore time on it. Not one think has gone right on it since I have started on it. Now trying to airbrush it my detail brush has decided to act up. It got to the point where there was so much paint on it looked like crap. The model itself was not that great so I am dumping it. I made sure I would not be tempted to try and fix the piece of crap by braking it to so many little pieces it is finished forever. Now what to do.Pull another kit out of the stash start all over agian and be way behind everyone else. Still have to figure why the @&%* airbrush eaither does not spray at all or dump huge amounts of paint out. Nothing in between. I might just smash that %$@# airbrush too!

                                                                                  Soulcrusher

SC -- Sorry that one went so bad, guy, it must have fought hard because you're one good modeller! Frank's right, take a few days off then take a shot at another. Lightning can't strike twice!

Your AB problems sound like tip-drying if you're using acrylics. Enamel? The ultimate problem with any AB is that it needs cleaning -- you could say airbrushes malfunction because they're used. My solution lately has been to strip the AB down and clean it within an inch of its life with my Paasche brushes, clean it till the brass shines, then put through some chemically 'hot' thinner. It seems to behave after that! Here's hoping you can get that beast cooperating soon!

Frank -- the deadline's 22 weeks away, surely there's time for a 32? Look at me, I've not even got a proper start yet. The local shops either never had RLM 75 and 76 or are sold out, and I approached an interstate shop yesterday, but to be fair it is Christmas Day Down Under, I doubt I'll hear anything for a while! I need the underside color for inside the rads before I can even build up the wing.

Cheers,

Mike

Guy, that pit is looking stunning!

SC, you won't be behind me if you start again, as I've got that 110 to finish, which might take a while, before I can even look at starting a build for this GB.

Steve, the trio are looking excellent.

Merry Xmas

Karl

SC, i feel for you man, Ive had exactly the same problem. Just wanted to throw my AB away anyhoos, heres my routine to clean my AB, I hope it helps you.

1stly after finishing spraying, i never leave the thing more than 15mins with paint in it. Then i tip the remains back into the paint pot or away, its up to you. Then i fill with Laquer thinners (I use acrylics) to about 5mm of depth. Then using an old brush, i stir the crap out of the paint cup. This really agitates the paint and can get right down the needle. Then hold a cloth over the end and fire the trigger. Be carefull as the paint will try to come back out of the pot. This should clean the tip. Tip this away, wipe out the cup with some lint free cloth or kitchen roll. Then add a drop of airbrush cleaner and blow that through. I use a cheapo AB cleaner that is slightly detergenty. This lubes everything in there.

For a deeper clean after you got to the stage of just being about to put the AB cleaner in, remove the needle and give it a wipe lengthwise with some old scotchbrite ensuring theres no paint on it anywhere. Using Franks Optivisor check the tip is not bent. This can play havoc with your spray patterns. Next remove the tip shroud and make sure theres no paint build up in there. Then remove the tip. These are the swine. If i have one that might have a build up in, (Hold to a light source and check) i use a pin from the GF or needle and gently scrape away any muck. Then leave the thing in some Laquer thinner for an hour or so and repeat the pin thing.

There you go, it all sounds long winded, but i can give the AB a quick clean after everytime im spraying and with the stuff at hand, takes about a minute.

Good luck and let me know how you get on.

...Guy

Here's a rough-looking and very much OOB cockpit for my Hasegawa K-4,

Cheers,

Mike

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Not bad Mike. You could add some white buttons down the oblong board on the starboard side and maybe paint the O2 hose a light blue. Those things will grab the interest when you look in the pit. Are you going to add belts?

...Guy

Thanks for all the support everyone. I spend my Christmas eve mulitating a Messerschmitt much in the way an Allied air ace would have during WWII! I had a feeling things were not going to work out for me on this one. Thats why when I placed my last order with Squadron I threw in an Acadamy 1/48 G-14! My stash is mostly early stuff and I wanted to have a backup plan.

As for the airbrush I disasembled it last night and gave it a thorough cleaning only to have the same results. I can only assume the needle is damaged. It is the newer design Badger Model 200. It had been working great for me in fine detail work since I purchased it a while ago. I guess I will order new needle and tips for it and see what happens. The tip of the needle is exposed and one drop and it will bend. I am on my third needle for my 175 model for this same reason!

Aaah, its like a Christmas Story. Stan made it back in time for the turkey. Feels like a proper GB now your back mate. Ho ho ho and Merry Crimbo Mate.

...Guy

SC- Yeah, sounds like a new needle and tip are in order.  Then it's back to the bench with you Mister!

Stan- Welcome back!  No more of these extended absenses from you, 'cuz when you're gone Aaron is the one handing out the advice!

Did ya hear that, Aaron is giving out advise to us on a 109 GB. Not that I know anything about 109's

Steve