Spruce-ce Goose Yes there were a lot of kits produced domestic before the 80's. Size of the kit, age or subject doesn't matter. Kits from ICM, Edward and others are more than welcome. The idea is to promote kits not built by the 'Big 3' Yes I love my DML, Tamiya and Trumpiter offerings as much as everyone else, just thought a show of support for others was needed.

In all honesty I never thought this would be such a difficult group build to find a kit for.

SuppressionFire: Unfortunately, your comment re: difficult to find a kit is a sign of the times.

I only recently read a comment in a Patrick Sweeney book on the AK family ISBN 0-89689-678-1 regarding China's most favored status during the Clinton years and the reason sooo many AKs and AK ammo was allowed importation by a firearm hostile administration.

China didn't make anything else Americans would buy at that time and our government wanted to open us up to Chinese exports.

Things have certainly changed!

Now we're economically joined at the hip with the PRC so much so that they're the only thing keeping us from papering our walls with dollars like folks did with the Weimar Reichmark.

Spruce-ce Goose Ahh there is a loyal following of AK shooters, in fact the finest custom built ones are a version of the AK-74. Made in the USA. Full circle or what?

With out draging politics into a online discussion, what is your entry to this exclusive and rare group build?

SupressionFire:

I've had a couple of late 1970s era Monogram Do-335s in storage needing a decent set of decals.

Perhaps a Monogram Do-17 or P-82 of the same era, perhaps a Martin B-1.

They're the only non-Aurora/Lindberg kits I own & am certain were produced in the USA and not China or Japan.

Unfortunately, I still don't have a means of creating decals for my Lindberg POGO so that can't be entered.

I would just build out of the box.

Too cold in the garage to re-build my HF mini-mill so I may as well glue plastic.

Question: Are decals under the same rules?

My main problem right now is locating decent decals.

I'll need to find something to fit the old Ameisenbar- preferably Watson's Whizzers.

Suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.

All of you are looking WAY too in depth at what he's tried to create for a GB. I think, from my own perspective just by reading his original posting, his intention was perfectly simple. Between Dragon, Tamiya and Trumpeter you could pretty much build anything under the sun and more often than not 98% of GB entries are made by these three and his suggestion was to not include any of those three in whatever each individual chose to build that joined the GB. Given it changed a few times and, as far as I can tell, is excluding everything from the Asia's and is including stuff from Europe/Russia, (I'm being worldly vague.)

Personally if I were running the GB I would limit entries to manufacturers based in, or originated in, the United States/Canada, not where the plastic was melted into sprue form and plastic wrapped into boxes.

Everyone looked at it and read it from an entirely WAY too political view. Given some statements were made in an not too entirely serious politically referred manner I don't think anyone was being overly austere. Take it for what it is, your picture isn't going to be posted in every hobby shop with orders to never allow you to buy from the "big 3" again. They are plastic scale models, this isn't oil trading.

(P.S. Yay Honda, Toyota, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Subaru and sometimes Mazda! AK's are horrible even given their drug through the mud reliability and short range stopping power, YAY to the FN-FAL! (Just to chime in on other subjects and hopefully not create an uproar of epic scale modeling proportions ))

And just to clarify, I in no way intended to cause a ruckus or to hurt anyone's feelings and, like previously stated, cause an uproar and have the thread locked.

Josh

FastasEF This is oil tradeing! Plastic is based on petrolium and my friends in the Alberta oil patch need jobs! Ha ha kidding. Thanks Josh, your insight and ability to see my intent helps clarify this group build. Don't worry the can of worms has been opened already. Besides so many are anxiously waiting for my next WIP's on the tank crew converted to be a ground crew... for my Trumpiter P-51 D

* Wouldn't the thread slip through the middle of the lock? Just wondering This one will remain open untill October 31, 2010 Get your entry's in ASAP!

Spruce-ce Goose Vintage Monogram? Super cool awesome dude! Decals are kind of like paint, choose which ever you want from anywhere in the world. I paint exclusively ith Testors enamel and Tamiya arcylics. There are many after market decals available domestically, in fact just yesterday I suggested to a member decals from mikegrantdecals.com Based in Calgary Alberta, Canada. Top notch and always winner's on the contest table at the regional level, check out Western Canadian Regional Model Contest.

One more, I noticed you spelled suppression correctly then went back to my way. Thanks buddy, as it is a enigma wrapped in a mystery surrounded by a riddle..Or my inability to spell or change it. Doh!

SupressionFire : If I read correctly, the build thread is open till October and the original production of the kit is not China or Japan, then that opens the opportunities for build material a bit as even the Deals Wheels were originally issued in 1971 and the re-issues would be fair game.

Your link to the Canadian decal source reminded me that I have an old 1/32 Revell F-104 I would like to

build as a 1960s CF-104 - if I can Google a source for decals of the old national ensign in that scale.  Belcher Bits didn't make 'em back at the turn of the century, perhaps someone else does.

I was of the understanding of what FastasEF/Josh said when I put my name fwd. As for what to build? If its OK I'd like to enter my RoG ch-53GS I have just started (I have primed the cockpit). If not I'll go my 1/72 Revell Fairey Swordfish

Andrew

Konigwolf13 Super duper awesome cool! Not sure what a 'RoG ch-53GS' is, am familar with the Fairley Swordfish. Yes if both were produced domestically or in Europe, basically whatever country of origin is on the box. Are certainly welcome!

*Like all facts read on the internet, mine are from memory taken off T.V. documentrys. Fortunatly for me there are many folks that are more than happy to point out inaccuracies.* ~ self dicsclaimer ~

Sprue-ce Goose Yes! a 1960 vintage CF-104 kit would really add excitement to this group build! Thanks and looking forward to WIP's Out for the day, Goose you keep everyone in line ok? Thanks again

Suppression

RoG ch-53GS

RoG = Revell of Germany, so european Kit

CH-53 Sea Stallion/Super Stallion/Jolly Green Series, GS- means german aircraft, and varient

This beastie

Konigwolf13 That is a large beast of a chopper! Which ever entry you choose is fine with me.

Great news! Found a few more kits made in Canada and USA! They are both resin and require deeper pockets than most are willing to fork out. Found these jems in a shop in Halifax today...Never purchased any, though of you guys and hope the pictures are clear enough to see the contact information...Enjoy!

Made in the USA!

For those where price is no object and enjoy resin ship building these two should be of interist.

Made in Canada eh!

Cool stuff guys, esp looking forward to your work on your big honking chopper Konigwolf,

Maria came the other day and I primed her and laid down the first flesh tone for her and the monkey.

Gamera Nice... pair, er parrot.. I mean progress! One question, is it a resin or white metal kit? Also could you put up a picture with the contact information on the back of the package? Thanks, the request is to help promote domestic manufactures.

Yeah, when I first saw the figure I thought 'Wow what a nice chest she has'.

TREASURE CHEST that is!!!!!!!!!!!  

The figure is pewter, they replaced lead some years back.

The website is:

www.reapermini.com

Reaper Miniatures
PO Box 293175
Lewisville, TX 75029

Another manufacturer that may be controversy free: RetroKit from engalnd.  They produce resin tanks mostly, although they did make a 1/144ish martian tripod (wish i coulda bought one), but it seems to have disappeared.  In my stash I have a Mig 29 Fulcrum from monogram that still says made in usa on the box, an old Airfix Sd Kfz 250/3 Greif, and a Glecoe models de Havilland Venom fb. 4 that says plastic made in China, box and decals made in usa.  I suppose any of these would be open.  IS the GB still going ahead, and if so what are the rules/ constaints.  There doesn't seems to be anything consistent here.

I would think anything by Hobbycraft Canada would be open as well.  Other options could include Heller, cromwell models, milicast, maco (maco-germany), Matador models, Wargames South, SHQ, MMS.  MOs tof these are resin or white metal, and made in England in 1/72,  1/176, or 1/144 scale.  Just some ideas.

basiltank Welcome to the confuseing, inconsistant group build I started! All good and looking forward to your entry. The origional idea was to promote any manufacture excludeing ones based in the far east. Im sure you have heard of Dragon, Tamiya and Trumpiter. Or 'the big 3' as I have coined them. My first post is confuseing and more accurate information regarding smaller domestic manufactures is filling these pages. I have photos featureing resin kits made in Canada and USA. My entry is a 1/35 Ultracast tank crew made in Canada. Vintage is also allowed if manufactured domestically, not a re-release. Goose has a vintage produced  Monogram CF-104, I found him a set of Leading Edge Decals made in Canada, it will be the show piece of this build as its painted 'Red, white and blue'

To make it easy what ever country of origin is printed on the box. ICM, Edward and Italian kits are all welcome. Besides im sure the 'big 3' won't miss us for a few builds. Thanks and let us know if you plan on entering a kit! Figures are allowed if they require clean-up, assembly and paint. 

I hope this explanation helps

Jason 

SupressionFire I would like to keep an eye on this group I find the idea behind it interesting. I would jump in and join it but am hosting 2 groups and have entered 3 more this year. I have never tried painting figures and maybe by watching this group I will learn a thing or 2.

Thanks for invite Jason, I'm just trying to decide what kit to build.  The AIrfix looks about as much fun as a swit kick to the nuts, (rescued from some poor souls attic and got the mold on the box to prove it but it was free so no complaints on that end).  So basicaly it is down to the Glencoe Venom or Monogram Mig 29.  I'll give further updates as I decide.  On that note, do you want my to just PM my decission to you or just leave it here?

Thnaks,

Dan

Actually, SupresionFire mis-typed.

The kit I chose is the old "Red Indian" 1/32 Revell F-104. I've had the kit in storage waiting for suitable decals. The F-104 is a very basic kit by modern standards but the Leading Edge decal scheme should be far easier to finish than the 1960's metal finish CF-104 I originally wanted due to being away from the hobby for so long.

The kit should provide some scope for selective detailing and I hope to learn something about resin casting from the experience.

But first I need to rummage through a cold & damp Midwest USA garage to locate the parts.

Hmmmmm. no "shivering smilies"?

vetteman42 great to hear, actually my technique for painting figures is very simple. I believe the skin colors and tone is more important than details like the color their eyes. I use washes in arcylic for the deep recesses and enamel for the highlights. I try not to spray clear flat, for a bit of shine when complete natural skin grease is brushed on from my for head. For eye brows, mustaches and tiny details pencle crayons are used.

The 1/144 Me 262 has consumed me last few days but now I feel inspired to get the figures painted up, will try and get some WIP's of them today.

Jason

Basiltank Vintage kits eh? Its known the decals may need up grades. Try Leading Edge Decals

Great to see more interist in this group build, thanks everyone for sticking it out so far! My idea for a badge is the back of a Canadian wiskey bottle, anyone who partied like a rock star in the great white north late 80's to mid 90's knows someone with a fridge full of 'A proud canadain' stickers. That being said can someone whip up a badge more suited to this GB? If not I will take camera to liquor store, as I can't drink wiskey anymore

Back to the topic, post everything but what you had for lunch. Anything related to this group build and WIP's. I tend to get off topic and ramble on, my facts are from poor documentrys I saw months ago and im often corrected and scolded online for this....

The badge works for me. Best idea I could come up with for 'domestic' was a guy whittling his own model out of a block of wood...

Ok change of build

Airfix 1/600 Bismarck

And I have to get her built by Friday for my father in-laws birthday. But I can do this, I did the 48hr madness GB (Well I hope I can do this, as I'm going to use the tamiya 1/350 paint codes, not the rather basic ones from the airfix kit)

So here was the start earlier this evening

OK here is where I am at after several hours fighting. The Hill is almost complete, just a little more sanding. Then I have to clean up the deck joins and edges.

Konigwolf13  Your post brought back a few forty-plus year old AIRFIX build memories.

The kit I built contained old style sailing ship anchors.

Does yours contain modern ship anchors or old style?

And my old AIRFIX 1/72 Bf-109 was wayyyyyyy inaccurate compared to the currect offering.

Thanks for posting the photos. I look forward to seeing the built up kit again.

Spruce-ce Goose, whats the difference between old and new?

Will include a pic of them next time update

Andrew

Ahh vintage bagged air! The new kits just don't have the same smell. I seen the 'Made in UK' on the instructions. 48 hour maddness eh? well I hope you have lots of coffee in the house!

I broke out the paint and here is some progress photos from today's work, first up the set up.

Second the flesh color pallet on glass. Resiste the urge to use scrap plastic etc.. it has mold remover ect. I know my glass is clean. Three for the basic flesh tone, Testors enamel Flesh, red and flat dark brown. Do one figure at a time and change up ratio. Work fast and use largest brush possible, dip in thinner first. Use thinner as needed to have just enough coverage.

There flesh is on, the darker guy has been in sun longer!

Final for today, basic clothes colors. None mixed, tomorow will paint leather jacket. One thing I strive for is less is more, in that the fewer layers of paint in figures the better. Also precice resin casts by Ultracast make painting easier. The exact line between color isn't terribly important at this stage, arcylic wash will seep into recesses tomorow.